1999 Ford Crown Vic Fuel Filter and Fuel Pump Replacement


Tools:
Safety glasses/goggles
Flat blade screw driver
Fuel line disconnect tool
8mm socket (either 1/4" or 3/8" drive) and matching ratchet.
15mm socket (either 3/8" or 1/2" drive), long extension and matching ratchet.
9/16" socket (either 3/8" or 1/2" drive) and matching ratchet.
10mm socket (either 1/4" or 3/8" drive), medium extension and matching ratchet.
Floor jack
Jack stands
Drain pan/bucket

Parts:
Motorcraft fuel pump assembly
Motorcraft fuel tank pressure sensor
Fuel tank strap stud & nut (one for each side, total of two of each needed)


Symptoms:

After re-fueling my Crown Vic one day after work I noticed the engine was "chugging" while driving. When I put the car into neutral and attempted to rev the engine it had a bad hesitation from idle to about half throttle. .

Diagnosis:

I initially had two idea's of what was wrong. 1. the fuel filter, 2. there was water/moisture in my gas line.

The shrader valve
Along the top, drivers side of the engine you will see the chrome fuel rail. On top of this rail you will see a valve similar to a tire valve. This neat little thing lets you check and see if you have fuel making it's way to the engine. Be advised, if the fuel system is working properly fuel will spray out of the valve. Place a rag under the valve and stand off to the side. Remove the black cap (if it's stil lthere). Use a small screw driver or other object to depress the center. If fuel comes out your getting fuel to the engine. If nothing comes out continue on with the diagnostics.

The fuel filter
The fuel filter is so easily changed on these cars there is no reason not to do it.It is located along the frame rail on the passenger side of the car. Just about under the rear passenger door. You will need a flat blade screw driver to remove/loosen the hose clamp that keeps the filter in it's mount. Once the clamp is removed pry up on the little white clips. Once those are removed pull the lines off. Some people say you need a disconnect tool for these but mine pulled right off. The key part here is to orient the filter in the proper direction. It should have a arrow marked on the side notating fuel flow direction. The arrow points toward the engine. Be advised, when you pull the fuel lines from the filter you will have fuel flowing. It is best to have a drain pan close to catch it. Once the old filter is removed from the lines you can slide the new filter into the mount and re-attach the lines, clips and hose clamp. Don't worry if you break one or both of the plastic clips, the new filter *should* come with them.

Fuel pump relay
Another simple thing to check before diving right into the fuel pump is the fuel pump relay. Under the hood on the drivers side there is a black box. One part of that box is the computer the rearward part is the relay center. The center relay is the one for the fuel pump. For diagnostic purposes you can swap one on the right into that slot and see if the car will run. It is also a good idea to clean the contact points.

If at this point the car will still not start and/or you have no fuel at the fuel rail you are looking at replacing the pump. There is one last thing to do, take a rubber mallet and smack the bottom of the fuel tank and try to start the car. This actually got mine to start and run for a brief time. Not something I would count on but if I were stuck on the side of the highway it may get you to a off ramp.


Alright, your going to change your fuel pump. I chose to get a complete assembly from Ford.

1. Disconnect the battery.

2. If you have more that 1/2 tank of fuel you may want to siphon it out of the tank. The pump is actually on the side of the tank, not on top.

3. Block the front tires

4. Jack the rear of the car up enough that you can place the jack stands under the frame rails (just foreward of the axle) and let the axle hang by the shock absorbers.

5. With your 9/16" socket unbolt the passenger side tail pipe. You do not need to totally remove it from the hangers, just unbolt and let it rest.

6. At this point you can remove the two fuel lines. You will need the big side of the disconnect tool for the top line and the smaller side of the tool for the bottom. How these work is you slide the tool into the fitting, that compresses a clip inside the fitting so you can remove the line.

7. Drop the tank. People say you don't have to, I tried not to but in the end I did anyway. Make your life easier and save about $60 by dropping it. Open your gas fill door and remove the four 10mm bolts around the filler neck. Take your floor jack and lay a piece of wood ( a 2x4 is fine ) across the pad .Pump the jack until the pad just comes in contact with the tank, enough to hold it up. With your 15mm socket and long extension remove the two tank strap fasterners. These are actually studs and nuts but mine were stuck and the stud and all came out. Pull the straps down out of the way and slowly lower the jack, you only need to go two or three inches.

8. You will note that there are two looms of electrical wires. One goes straight up and connects on the other (top) side of the crossmember. The other goes across the top of the tank toward the passenger side where it plugs into the fuel tank pressure sensor on the top side of the tank. This is the reason you lowered the tank. In it's assembled postion the fuel tank pressure sensor sits very close to the bottom of the trunk floor making it very difficult to remove the connector for the fuel pump. This sensor is plastic and breaks easily....and costs around $60.

9. Once the wires and fuel lines are all disconnected you can remove the six 8mm bolts holding the pump assembly to the tank. When the bolts are all removed take a flat scew driver and gently pry the pump assembly from the tank. Take care not to distort the tank to pump flange. If you have more than a half tank you may get a shower of gasoline. When the pump assembly is free just pull it out of the tank, you may have to do some twisting and turning to clear the differentail and exhaust componants. When you pull the old pump assembly out of the tank try to stay off to the side, the strainer on the end of the pick up tube will have some gas in it..

10. Ok, now your ready to install the new pump assembly. Carefully feed it up into the hole in the tank and seat the pump flange on the tank flange. Install the 8mm bolts in a cris-cross tightening sequence until tight.

11. If you managed to disconnect the fuel tank pressure sensor without breaking it you can run that wire and re-connect that and go to step 12. If you damaged the sensor you will need to drop the tank further so you have room to work. The sensor sticks about two inches into the tank, I lowered my tank about 6-8" total. Clean all of the road dirt and debris around the sensor (you don't want it falling in your tank). The sensor is removed by pushing down and turning it counter clockwise. This may be a bit of a chore depending on where yours broke. Installation is push down and turn clockwise. To aid in installation of the new sensor and to avoid damaging it apply a light film of oil to the o-ring and camming surface.

12. Connect the remaining connector to the receptical above the crossmember.

13. Install the fuel lines. They simply push onto the fuel pump fitting. Slide the "safety" clip back on and your good to go.

14. If the tank strap studs came out (like mine did) install the new studs in the body.

15. Jack the tank up making sure the fuel lines and wires don't get pinched. Also make sure you don't raise the tank too far and smash the tank pressure sensor.

16. Position the tank straps and tighten the 15mm nuts and remove the jack.

17. Re-install the tail pipe. You will note a large braided ground wire on the tail pipe that goes to the frame. Now would be a good time to clean the frame where it clips on.

18. Re-install the four 10mm bolts around the filler neck.

19. Jack up the rear of the car and pull the jack stands, lower the car.

20. Connect the battery and turn the ignition to the on position. Check for fuel at the fuel rail (it should be there).

21. Start the engine and marvel in your mechanical accomplishment.

22. Jump onto http://www.my5oh.com or http://www.crownvic.net and tell them this article helped you.


Disclaimer: This article was written to help you fix your car. This advice is free and may be worth what you paid for it. In other words, Jason Bukousky nor my5oh.com shall be liable if things don't go right on your end.

This article was written from information obtained by the author durring fuel pump replacement and durring diagnostic research on my5oh.com and crownvic.net

Nice write-up man

Thanks.

A little confused, appears the thread was moved once then duplicated?

Like you said, really not necessary to drop the tank. It does take a little more manipulation to get the sender out, but not that big of a deal. Last one I did was in the parking lot of Pepboys. Car was hanging off the back of my brothers wrecker and took about 30 minutes.

Yeah I noticed that too, odd

I also dropped the tank when i did mine, just couldnt seem to get the exhuast out of the way enough, what a pita i ran into, the two bolts/nuts that hold the straps also were frozen on mine and the stud came with, which made it fun to get back into the hole other than that it was straight forward and not hard, just tedious, good write up.

Thanks for the writeup!

Nice writeup, but I've never had to do that much work. When I upgraded the pump in MadMax, I was able to get the old assy out, and the new assy (now with dual 255 pumps) back in without taking off anything. Just took the lines and connector off, took the ring off, and pulled the assy out. You just gotta twist it the right way to get it out of the tank.

ok i get fuel at the fuel rail, changed the relay and filter and the car will only start but shut off immediately. is this the pump thats messed up?

Here's one for you. First, nice write up. I just did that whole process a few months back. Used a NAPA pump... hey it was free. However... same problem again.

I'm a disabled vet, don't get around too well.... took me 2 days with my many breaks (naps). Any chance an aftermarket in-line pump can work? I was thinking one of those hot rod pumps from Summit Racing. Maybe some of you High-po guys have needed the extra fuel...

I have a 99 P71, mostly stock.

Thanks OP for posting your helpful information that I used. In gratitude I posted a DETAILED review with pictures and my experience changing the fuel pump on a 2001. I luckily did not have to drop the tank.

http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=5290892765691012577#editor/target=post;postID=8264764475040502456

Great write up! However I had a problem with the topmost bolt on the sender assembly. It appears I cross threaded it at some point or I just couldn't get it quite on there. Is it vital to have all 6 or will I just continue to smell gas?