I'm having some trouble with my ABS/traction lights both being lit, they're lit about 90% of the time. Also when the indicator light is not on my brakes act funky, i can feel the brake pedal "farting" under my foot as if the abs or trac-ctrl is trying to engage for no reason.

I have to attempt at fixing this myself... I'M BROKE! haha

Any insight would be greatly appreciated

So lets start with the easy stuff, have you checked the fluid reservoir? Any obvious leaks maybe? From what it sounds like the MC is probably on its way out. Someone should chime in tho

What year is your car? If it's OBDI you can pull the ABS codes without a reader. I believe I did so on my '92 with a paper clip as though I were pulling engine codes, but the protocol may have been different. It's been so long I really can't remember what I did.

The car is a 2000. No leaks, fluids are were they belong. pads &rotors are good.

what is the "MC"?

MC = Master Cylinder







.

OP indicated that both his TC and ABS lights are on. Wouldn't this indicate that the problem is in the rear wheel sensors? I have the same issue on my '99 CV. So far, I managed to break off the sensor attaching bolt, so it's all soaking in PB blaster right now. So far, haven't got the sensor to budge. I'm trying to get the sensors out to clean them. Does this make sense? Would a cheapo OBDII tester tell me more?

Forget the trying to get it out in one piece, they only come out undamaged maybe 1% of the time. I wouldn't just replace the sensors because the lights came on, it should be tested to verify which sensor is bad if that's even the cause. Unless the sensor is covered in metal shavings there's nothing to service.

I just had my rear gears done, and surprisingly the left rear sensor came right out, but the right rear mounting bolt broke, and the sensor was seized in the bracket. We ended up breaking the sensor out (much easier for us since the axle had to come out anyway) then heating what was left of the bolt to get it out. I put in both rear sensors new OEM with anti-sieze (yeah... I said it )

Can you test them with a multimeter or does it take a dealer type computer tool?

Sorry I haven't Been on CVnet in a very long time. The Solution was very Simple. I had a buildup of metal shavings/Dust covering the magnetic speed sensors. All it took was a quick blast from the air compressor

Thanks good to know

If you don't have the cash to fix a wheel speed sensor, just pull the under hood fuse going to the ABS pump. The light will stay on, but the random engagement of ABS while driving will stop. Also, if any wheel speed sensor goes out, ABS and Traction Control will stop working.

I have just read through about 8 different threads about how to REPAIR/REPLACE a ABS LIGHT and TRACTION CONTROL light on situation. A few observations:

apparently NO ONE has EVER gotten a rear ABS sensor out of the wheel without destroying it.

A number of people have said a CODE CHECK told them which ABS sensor was bad....I and a few others have had numerous code checks...no error code was demonstrated.

If you are lucky, just blowing away the magnetized metal particles that have become attached to the sensor with compressed air or brake parts cleaner will solve the problem.

a few people have replaced their ABS senors....details remain sketchy.

the sensors are affordable....

Photo of FRONT ABS SENSOR, unmounted

and a picture of a REAR ABS SENSOR, dim and murky that it is