.
Make payments with PayPal - it's fast, free and secure! registry | CVN on Facebook | tech | links | news | email login | chat Make payments with PayPal - it's fast, free and secure!


Welcome to CVN - Your Panther platform headquarters!


Custom Search


Page 1 of 2 1 2 >
Topic Options
#2192486 - 12/02/10 08:17 PM Pulling Dash To Replace Blend Door Act & Heat.Core
CarMon Offline
Member

Registered: 04/19/08
Posts: 496
Loc: Southwest Florida
Nearly a year after my blend door actuator failed, and in anticipation of going on a trip to the north around Christmas (snowy areas), I have accumulated just enough courage to convince myself that I can do this.

I have become thouroughly familiar with the dash removal procedure as outlined in the BOK. This will be my first time removing a dash.

While I am in there I will also be replacing the heater core with one I just purchased from a Ford dealer, as a preventative maintenance measure.

I noticed that my CV does not have the driver's side transmission tunnel bracket connected to the underside of the dash, and I am surprised by this. Further, I am quite surprised by the limited number of fasteners that seem to be holding the dash in place. I guess the dash must be that rigid that it doesn't need that many fasteners.

Question: Do the A pilar trim pieces have to be removed? I couldn't quite determine that from the BOK article.
_________________________

>> My 97 Crown Vic LX HPP <<

Top
Links
#2192504 - 12/02/10 08:47 PM Re: Pulling Dash To Replace Blend Door Act & Heat.Core [Re: CarMon]
TheShadow Offline
Over the Hill

Registered: 05/01/07
Posts: 1366
Loc: SoCal High Desert
Yes, You CAN do this.

Good idea on the heater core replacement. As usual, Murphy's Law #2 would apply: It will fail right after you think it won't, and button up the area.

Your 97 probably has a brace mounted just to the right of the tunnel, left of the glovebox. It's attached to the firewall up close to the bottom of the windshield, so it points down about 45 degrees or so. And the dash frame is pretty stout steel; if you look at the frame rails the driver's side knee plates connect to, that's what it is, all over (or under).

If you mean the trim pieces that run up along the windows, no. The rubber door seal just has to be peeled back a little, from the kickpanel up. You can just hang the ends over the doors to keep them out of the way. Lower trim - kickpanels, "pretty" panels under the dash - are the only trims that need to be removed.

And wait until you see the size of the nut and bolt holding the left side of the dash to the body, compared to the right side. It's a 15mm socket size, IIRC. The right side is only 10mm.

Be very careful with the small cable that runs from the shift lever under the steering column up to the gear position indicator in the instrument cluster. It's mounting on the cluster is easily broken plastic. When I do it, I unhook the loop of the cable from the shift lever, unbolt the adjuster mechanism, and let it dangle towards the left side as much as possible. Don't let the column fall on it!
_________________________
'95 P71, 5xx,xxx miles, Rebuilt tranny, 2.73. Lives as a cab, and will die as a cab. (Died-FrontEnder)
'96 P71, 640,xxx on original drivetrain. (Now parts car - T-bone & roll)(You should see the roof - A,B & C-pillars chopped on driver side)
New to list: '96 MGM (Nice! @ 35x,xxx), '97 CV P71, '98 CV P71, '00 CV P71, 01 P71 (2 of 'em) '03 CV P71 (Nice so far) (All Ford Zinc Yellow w/Black decals & trim) And the list is growing...........
Taxicab mechanic: I HATE DRIVERS!

Top
#2192720 - 12/03/10 05:55 AM Re: Pulling Dash To Replace Blend Door Act & Heat.Core [Re: TheShadow]
CarMon Offline
Member

Registered: 04/19/08
Posts: 496
Loc: Southwest Florida
OK Shadow, thank you immensely for the tips!!!
_________________________

>> My 97 Crown Vic LX HPP <<

Top
#2192748 - 12/03/10 07:49 AM Re: Pulling Dash To Replace Blend Door Act & Heat.Core [Re: CarMon]
Fordiesel69 Offline
Over the Hill

Registered: 09/16/05
Posts: 3637
Loc: Erie, PA
The a-pillars do not need to be removed, but will ensure no damage or cracks to the top dash pad upon assembly.

The issue you will have is the "problem" stud. It will be a pain to pull the plenum away. It goes together easy though.
_________________________
rant2 ******Need your heater core replaced? Click Here******rant2
-99' Crown Vic Police Interceptor (SAP), 3.55 Trac-Loc(DK), Cloth Interior, Black Honeycomb Grill, Black PI Trunk Bezel, Silverstars, 155K
-00' Crown Vic Police Interceptor (SAP), 3.55 (R2), Cloth Interior, Black PI Trunk Bezel, 03+ Full Wheel Covers, Silverstars, 109K
-04' F-150 Heritage 4x4 - Extended Cab, 3.55's, White w/ Tan interior, 188K
-99' Lincoln Town Car - Signature Series, 3.08's, Silver Frost Metallic, 94K

Top
#2192778 - 12/03/10 09:50 AM Re: Pulling Dash To Replace Blend Door Act & Heat.Core [Re: Fordiesel69]
CarMon Offline
Member

Registered: 04/19/08
Posts: 496
Loc: Southwest Florida
OK thanks. I don't quite understand how I will "disconnect" the floor vent union with the box. I guess I will figure it out when I am "in there".


I'm a bit unnerved by this job but confident at the same time! Saturday will be "the day".
_________________________

>> My 97 Crown Vic LX HPP <<

Top
#2193253 - 12/04/10 01:31 AM Re: Pulling Dash To Replace Blend Door Act & Heat.Core [Re: CarMon]
Drac Offline
Mr. Smug
Over the Hill

Registered: 03/19/10
Posts: 3024
Loc: Cali
physically removing the dash is pretty easy. me and a friend removed a complete 2005 dash at the junkyard in an hour and a half taking our sweet time.

re-instillation is almost definitely a 2 man job for sure. the dash is considerably heavy, and it would be pretty difficult to reinstall it by yourself.
_________________________

2004 Ex FBI P71 SAP painted in dark pearl blue (DX) Haz teh modz! -POTM September 2011 & Jan 2013-

2009+ Window/Lock/Mirror Control Switches Retrofit
Mercury Cougar Trunk Switch Retrofit.


Top
#2193380 - 12/04/10 10:40 AM Re: Pulling Dash To Replace Blend Door Act & Heat.Core [Re: CarMon]
TheShadow Offline
Over the Hill

Registered: 05/01/07
Posts: 1366
Loc: SoCal High Desert
 Originally Posted By: CarMon
OK thanks. I don't quite understand how I will "disconnect" the floor vent union with the box. I guess I will figure it out when I am "in there".

A little wiggling, pulling the right side of the dash towards the rear while pushing the left-of-tunnel side towards the dash and rotating the whole thing at the same time will show you what needs to be done. The rotation direction is the bottom part towards the firewall...

Installation of the "tube" is the worst part...you might try getting the right-side small radius of the oval-shape into the floor duct receiver first, then reverse the removal rotation, pulling and wiggling.

Take note to be careful of the heater tubes while doing this maneuver. They tend to get jammed up against the firewall before they find their pass-through holes, so try to keep them a little back. You'll find that using the core tubes as a kind of "alignment pin" will help make everything fall into place.

And, like Drac says, a second set of hands IS immensely helpful, but not absolutely necessary. I place the right-side hole on the stud with nut very loose, then do the driver's side. Also, make sure to lift and rotate rearward the top where it meets the windshield before you place it, then rotate forward and drop into place. The goal is to ride over, then drop down onto, the nutclips for the upper retaining screws. The nutclips are easy to pop off if you're not careful.

Good Luck!
_________________________
'95 P71, 5xx,xxx miles, Rebuilt tranny, 2.73. Lives as a cab, and will die as a cab. (Died-FrontEnder)
'96 P71, 640,xxx on original drivetrain. (Now parts car - T-bone & roll)(You should see the roof - A,B & C-pillars chopped on driver side)
New to list: '96 MGM (Nice! @ 35x,xxx), '97 CV P71, '98 CV P71, '00 CV P71, 01 P71 (2 of 'em) '03 CV P71 (Nice so far) (All Ford Zinc Yellow w/Black decals & trim) And the list is growing...........
Taxicab mechanic: I HATE DRIVERS!

Top
#2193428 - 12/04/10 12:08 PM Re: Pulling Dash To Replace Blend Door Act & Heat.Core [Re: TheShadow]
CarMon Offline
Member

Registered: 04/19/08
Posts: 496
Loc: Southwest Florida
Last night I started the job and this morning I have "finished" the job. My dash is fully back together and everything has been tested and works. Let me just say that some of it was much easier than I expected, and some of it was much much harder than I expected.


(Click picture for enlargement.)



(Click picture for enlargement.) - - I don't want to hear about the butterflies on the house; wifey wears the pants under this roof.


The dash and steering column came off and went on rather quickly. I only replaced the faulty blend door actuator; I could NOT get that Godforsaken heater plenum to come off the firewall! I also ended up pounding that stud in the engine compartment a little too hard that it bent downward! I tried and tried to disconnect the floor duct connection and could see no way of doing it. It was insanity...I was SERIOUSLY agravated when I realized that I could not pull that heater plenum out to remove the heater core, and subsequently could not figure out how to access 2 of the 4 screws holding the blend door actuator due to lack of clearance on top.


(Click picture for enlargement.) Circled in red is the approx. location of the front 2 inaccessible BDA screws.


I slept on it and felt a bit better this morning.

Regarding The Blend Door Actuator
Since there was no clearance for a rachet, I ended up sawing the left-front mounting hole off of the old BDA using just the saw part of a hacksaw, then used an adjustable wrench to remove that screw. Then I "broke off" the right-front BDA mounting hole altogether, and then used the same adjustable wrench to remove that screw.

(Click picture for enlargement.)



I then opened the original BDA and confirmed that a gear was sripped of it's threads on one side, so I knew for sure that the BDA was faulty at that point:

(Click picture for enlargement.) The top part of the circled gear is missing teeth.


I then installed the new BDA with the 2 easily accessible rear screws, and almost left it like that. I wrapped the moving part of the actuator with 2 skinny ties, but later removed the ties in fear that there wouldn't be enough clearance, and the ties might get hung up on something preventing the blend door from moving. Leaving out 2 of the 4 screws probably would have been fine but I was worried that I would eventually have a problem. So I figured out that I could use about 6 or 8 washers on the left front screw so that I could use an adjustable wrench to tighten it. This is because without the washers, the head of the screw is BELOW the surface of the BDA and therefore you cannot use an adjustable wrench (or a rachet due to no-clearance). So I raised the head of the screw with those washers. Only a few threads of that screw are actually embedded into the screwhole, but at at least the BDA is now secure on 3 of the 4 holes, and I feel better about that. I left the right-front screw out because there is no way I was going to be able to get a screw in there. I thought, "SCREW IT"!

Since I had planned to remove the heater core, I removed the heater core hoses which meant I had to bleed the heater core. I basically ran the engine and let the heater core outlet just pour out until it looked like most of the bubbles were out, then I just put the hose back on. I hope this is sufficient. When I tested the heat, it got nice and hot so I assume what I did to bleed the core was correct. Anyway I see no other way to bleed the core.

I AM SO GLAD THIS IS OVERWITH.

Now I have heat.


_________________________

>> My 97 Crown Vic LX HPP <<

Top
#2193541 - 12/04/10 03:12 PM Re: Pulling Dash To Replace Blend Door Act & Heat.Core [Re: CarMon]
TheShadow Offline
Over the Hill

Registered: 05/01/07
Posts: 1366
Loc: SoCal High Desert
Cool! You got it done...now you'll have heat on those chilly 50 Deg. mornings (LOL).

Regarding the heater box stud...When you had the BDA off, did you happen to notice the stud with nut on the top flange of the heater box behind the BDA? That's the other end of that infamous stud that you bent down. That nut, and the two nuts on the bottom flange of the box are what you need to remove to get the heater box back. No need to go through the firewall. That nut (11mm) is a bear to get out, but with a 1/4" drive socket with tape on the business end (to hold the nut in the socket), a universal joint, then a 6" or so extension, it will come out and go back on pretty nicely. Access it from the right side of the BDA.

For next time...hope it's a long while...
_________________________
'95 P71, 5xx,xxx miles, Rebuilt tranny, 2.73. Lives as a cab, and will die as a cab. (Died-FrontEnder)
'96 P71, 640,xxx on original drivetrain. (Now parts car - T-bone & roll)(You should see the roof - A,B & C-pillars chopped on driver side)
New to list: '96 MGM (Nice! @ 35x,xxx), '97 CV P71, '98 CV P71, '00 CV P71, 01 P71 (2 of 'em) '03 CV P71 (Nice so far) (All Ford Zinc Yellow w/Black decals & trim) And the list is growing...........
Taxicab mechanic: I HATE DRIVERS!

Top
#2194594 - 12/06/10 11:02 AM Re: Pulling Dash To Replace Blend Door Act & Heat.Core [Re: TheShadow]
CarMon Offline
Member

Registered: 04/19/08
Posts: 496
Loc: Southwest Florida
Thanks Shadow for the info regarding removing the nut off of that stud. I'll keep that in mind for next time, and hopefully there won't be a next time!

I wanted to post a pic for everyone's benefit as an example of how I used a stack of washers to raise the screwhead high enough for an adjustable wrench to tighten it. Again, this is how I secured the front-left screw of the new BDA:

(Click picture for enlargement.)



_________________________

>> My 97 Crown Vic LX HPP <<

Top
#2194877 - 12/06/10 05:24 PM Re: Pulling Dash To Replace Blend Door Act & Heat.Core [Re: CarMon]
CameronVic Offline
Coolest guy on CVN
Poobah

Registered: 03/25/09
Posts: 5201
Loc: In the beams!
Where in SW Florida do you live, I am coming to St. Petersburg for Christmas, it's where my parents live. Wanna make some $$ and help me do this possibly??

What my car does or doesn't do rather is change the location of where the air comes out when I move the selector switch. If I put it on the face only option, it comes out of there, but if I try to change it to the dash, or the floor, or mix, it BARELY makes an attempt to go there. It will still blow about 50 percent from the face option.
_________________________
1999 P71, Chevy 5.3, twin GT35s, 4L80e, 3.55s, E85, etc. 9.96 @ 139.

Top
#2194912 - 12/06/10 06:05 PM Re: Pulling Dash To Replace Blend Door Act & Heat.Core [Re: CameronVic]
larryo340 Offline
Grand Poobah

Registered: 11/10/08
Posts: 10532
Loc: Long Island
 Originally Posted By: CameronVic
Where in SW Florida do you live, I am coming to St. Petersburg for Christmas, it's where my parents live. Wanna make some $$ and help me do this possibly??

What my car does or doesn't do rather is change the location of where the air comes out when I move the selector switch. If I put it on the face only option, it comes out of there, but if I try to change it to the dash, or the floor, or mix, it BARELY makes an attempt to go there. It will still blow about 50 percent from the face option.


With the manual climate control air flow is controlled by vacuum:



_________________________

MOD List for MGM
...Marquis sold frown

Top
#2195012 - 12/06/10 08:35 PM Re: Pulling Dash To Replace Blend Door Act & Heat.Core [Re: larryo340]
CameronVic Offline
Coolest guy on CVN
Poobah

Registered: 03/25/09
Posts: 5201
Loc: In the beams!
All I've tried is the function selector switch. What would you try next. (those instructions are almost Greek to me)
_________________________
1999 P71, Chevy 5.3, twin GT35s, 4L80e, 3.55s, E85, etc. 9.96 @ 139.

Top
#2195098 - 12/06/10 11:29 PM Re: Pulling Dash To Replace Blend Door Act & Heat.Core [Re: CameronVic]
larryo340 Offline
Grand Poobah

Registered: 11/10/08
Posts: 10532
Loc: Long Island
It could be as simple as vacuum line kinked or leaking, or maybe the vacuum motor self that the selector controls.
_________________________

MOD List for MGM
...Marquis sold frown

Top
#2195116 - 12/07/10 12:17 AM Re: Pulling Dash To Replace Blend Door Act & Heat.Core [Re: larryo340]
CameronVic Offline
Coolest guy on CVN
Poobah

Registered: 03/25/09
Posts: 5201
Loc: In the beams!
Where's the vacuum motor itself?
_________________________
1999 P71, Chevy 5.3, twin GT35s, 4L80e, 3.55s, E85, etc. 9.96 @ 139.

Top
Page 1 of 2 1 2 >



Moderator:  2vmodular, dRock96Marquis, sanco 
Who's in Chat??
Google!
Who's Online
3 registered (klob, lsutigers93, AeroSS_87), 28 Guests and 64 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Shout Box

Email Login
EMail Login Name
Password
 New users, sign up!
Top Posters (30 Days)
Chicago2VP71 394
Ezbok58a 180
BigMerc96 152
KayTar 142
BlackVic_P71 136
121ak 111
a_d_a_m 103
road_pizza 101
aknox077 99
BigNSlow 97
Featured Member
Registered: 03/30/13
Posts: 569





Copyright 2000-2013 by Crownvic.net and Steve Spaulding. All Rights Reserved.
The photographs, graphics and data contained in this Web site are the properties of the contributors, or Crownvic.net and may not be used without expressed written consent.
Crownvic.net is not affiliated with the Ford motor company.

Happily consuming the fuel saved by Prius owners!