There's something that's missing there. Although for drag racing an automatic is relatively simple. Keep OD off, and don't redlight.

Backwards. He's got the drivetrain (high stall converter, gears) for an automatic. A jmod might help a bit, but not much.

With a 96 mph trap, the power isn't there.

Lol true I tend to compare how many passes it took me to launch properly and get better times .
the same car went from 15.0 to 14.0 because I did better during my 60' and shifting.

This is what the guy said about his car when I bought it

2.1 Big Bore
Custom Tuned by Lidio at Alternative Performace
Ford Racing 3.73 Posi
T.C.T. 2400 Stall Converter
Magna Flow Exhaust
Running about 9psi non intercooled, 60lb injectors,
3" intake tube, stock MAF and throttle body. It
dynoed out at 345 rwhp 360 rwtq
stock exhaust manifolds





I was debating over methanol injection but don't want to have to keep refilling it because it is my DD in the summer.

My launches kind of suck because I don't get enough traction. I always slip at least a little it seems sometimes enough I have to let off.



What does OD do when racing if you leave it on? Does it really affect it that much? I have never taken it off whenever I've driven and I've only been to the strip 2 times so far to actually race and the OD never even crossed my mind. But then again I was nervous the first time and ended up doing a burnout in reverse 2 times:P

He got the power

I have 280 hp but 360 lbtq and we both ran similar times and trap speed.
he has around the 350 hp / tq mark.
he should be able to pull 100 mph runs with this much hp

Maybe the altitude has something to do with it? Isn't higher up the air less dense and lower down the air more dense?

Altitude and sea level distances do play a role, you'd perform best if the inlet air temp isn't stupid hot. Hot air + supercharger = heatsoak which will kill your times.

As example:

I ran a best of 14.3 in Feb with the outside temp at 38.

I then ran in June with the outside temp of 89 +70% humidity a best of 14.7

Same track, same mods...but the temp killed it.

Yeah that's the weird thing. Me and my dad were running in the lower 14s all day then all of a sudden out of nowhere my dad gets a 13.99. And we were hot lapping it just playing around having fun.

post your time slips if you can it will tell more abouth your car .

That cannot possibly be true. Stock MAF will max out way below the stated power.

You might want to take a set of calipers to your TB and measure it, along with getting the part number on the MAF and looking it up. Would be worth knowing anyway.

If you do it right, it does nothing. But if you need get out of the throttle midtrack it might upshift prematurely and burn up the OD band. OD is the only gear in these transmissions that engages with a drum and band instead of a clutch. Turning off the OD switch tell tells the trans module not to engage the OD servo so you stay in third until you hit your limiters. High gears like 2.73 won't even hit third before crossing the line. It's a safety feature and a good habit to turn it off at the track in case you get into trouble. I turn mine off maybe every 4/5 times or every time I remember.

Iirc the intake setup on his car is ridiculously long as well. No idea if that'd help/hurt or do nothing of importance.

My only point is that a blower only panther, or even with some supporting mods, is going to get walked by the slightestly modded coyote. Modded to me means basic bolt ons (to include a correct tire because it's pissing in the wind if you have mods and a horrible compound street tire).

I completely agree with you on that cameron.

But a properly done blower panther, with full supporting mods, etc.... different story I'd think.


With a 2.73 open diff, NPI engine, basic bolt ons I can still occasionally spin my 245 width summer tires. Throw another 150 hp on top of that and you should have some serious rubber to go with it.

https://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2566278#Post2566278

I have the 2 best ones from that day posted on the last post on it. If you can't read it let me know and I can type it up. Or type up all of them if it'll help because now I'm really wondering whats up with my car.



Do you think they may have swapped different ones on at the dyno because the guy didn't have aftermarket ones then he just put the stock ones back on which is ending up choking the power?

Ok good to know its just a safety precaution.

Yeah the intake starts at the drivers side headlight goes over the radiator to the passenger side then up to the firewall almost and into the blower so I'd say its a little long lol