Its been a few years since I've posted. Haven't seen any of this in awhile, so if I've doubled up on tech, sorry. Moderator can remove it.

Anyway, with the fuel pumps being such a PITA to do on these, wanted to do it right. Replaced this one on my wifes P71 about 5yrs ago, couldn't get housing down and replaced pump with housing hanging above the rearend . Don't even want to remember that.

So...long story short: the 8 pin harness connector for the pump sits above a brace in front/above of gas tank/rearend, in the center.Their's a small half dollar size hole that I centered connector above, used small flathead screwdriver and pushed in on retaining clip and seperated the connector. Disconnected the fuel lines. To the left of the small hole and above is a bracket that holds down the fuel rails from the tank that make a loop to the right and then back to the left. The bolt head is on top and its a 13mm. I removed it and pushed up on rails slightly and slide the 8 pin connector to the left where the only gap on brace is located and pulled/pushed connector down and out. free at last. Only 7 wires are in connector BTW. Now 4 wires go to the pump housing, the other 3 trail off to the pass side and go over the top of the tank. No connector for it. Sooo...I do my own crimping for custom connectors for whelen products and some time ago I bought the mini flat sided screwdrivers from summit to help. (Part num are at end) I slide a reg mini flat head into main harness connectors backside to the blue foam side. Pulling it out gently and down on the harness (remove the crinkle cover on harness side) which left wires exposed. On OEM Ford connectors, if you look in the housings, the pins are seperated by a red plastic tab. I used the grn handle screwdriver from summit (its about 3in long) and from back side of housing slide it inside and pushed the red tab out. its purpose is to keep the tabs pressed on pins so they don't come out of the housing. Once it was out of the way, I used the flat tip to GENTLY pry the tabs up and pulled the other 3 pins out. Please remember the orientation of wires. Their is an empty hole beside these, and if you fill in from wrong side, you screwed up. Write it down and what side the empty hole is on, the left or right. With the wires out of the way, I then had to pull rubber insulators off of pass side exhaust from mufflers and tip of tailpipe so I could push exhaust over to pass side enough to pull housing out and above rearend. You will have to do aerobics to turn and twist to get it out. And remember the float lever. Don't want to bend it. I swapped out start to finish lying on my back with car on ramps in 2 1/2 hrs total. I left main harness below brace this time and zip tied it up to brace for ease if I have to do ever again. God Forbid that. This is twice in 5yrs now. Works fine now. I know others have wrote this up, but usually requires cutting wires. This didn't. I plan on getting a donor harness and clipping the 3 wire side and putting a quick connect on it. But thats for later. Hope this helps others so they don't have to cut. Summit tools I used are called: Pico Pin Extraction Tools, # PCO-0660PT. They come in a set and only $7. Def worth it. If you haven't done this before, go to junkyard, get some connectors...pretty much any will do and practice with those first so you don't accidentally take out your connector.