Looking through the factory wiring manual it seems like it should all work. I'll just be without the speedometer for a while.
I explored how the output shaft and OSS work on the original. The reluctor wheel won't swap over. I assumed that anyway.
On the VSS issue, which is also used on the CV auto transmission.... and is used in the 99+ T45 may be used for the speedo and such just fine. Which is what has been posted here already.
The output shaft on the stock transmission should be a gear machined into the shaft itself and not a removable gear that can be swapped to retain exact numbers (rotation count)

I took apart a V6 Mustang and got the clutch cable, pedals and switches at the local pick and pull the other day. 97* in Tennessee.... yuk. Took about 20 minutes though so not too bad. So other than a new clutch I have nothing else to buy I think.

I have the correct tail housing on the T45. With a 12 tooth reluctor ring for the OSS. Anyone know off hand how many teeth are on the 4R75E? Which is what I presume the 04 CV came with?

Ok here are the answers as I understand them:

1. You will need a tune ... or possibly a PCM from a manual Mustang GT. Your car will run without a tune but it won't run well.

2. I THINK you can run a GPS speedo with your 04 as long as it is adjustable. Adjust it until your speedo reads correct ... but you need a tune anyway so ...

3. I am not sure about the number of teeth on the reluctor but that is irrelevant anyway because your tire size and RAR are included in the calculation. Try it as is, if the speedo reads wrong you will need an xcal or tune or some other method, just di that when you tune it.

4. I did not delete EGR with the T-45 tune on my 01. I did delete the rear O2s but only because the they are useless anyway. I don't know if the EGR still functions or not but I did not turn it off on the Xcal or my tune.

Why does the ADTR website suggest aftermarket rear upper and lower control arms when performing a manual swap? I would think that the rear controls arms would swing up and down through their range of motion just the same regardless if they are OEM or aftermarket. Is it because the bushings are stiffer in the aftermarket control arms?

http://www.adtr.net/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_67&product_id=220

Also, will does anyone know if ADTR will offer a 5-speed manual swap?

It's because of the greater hit of torque the manual is able to transmit from a standing start. I don't know about ADTR's plans, but I'd guess no.

I guess the stock rubber bushings can't withstand the thrashing.

I actualy recomended chris to add this suggestion based on my years of experience with the manual swapped vic.

I have done 5 manual swaps localy and they all destroyed their control arms within a year or so depending if the car was driven hard or not.
Like fomoco mentionned, the drivetrain dosent get the same kind of stress on components and this cause premature failling like the sleeve getting out of the bushings or arms breaking in two at the end when driven hard for extended period of time.

just look at the difference


that is the kind of problem you are running with the stock control arms

Thanks for the great description 2004_p71

anytime

Even Metcos wear out with manual swaps. Especially when throwing boost at them.


Nice thing is dealing with Rick @ Metco. GREAT guy, great company.
I fixed mine up just like new in no time at all.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=88654

When switching to a 5-speed or 6-speed, what impact can someone expect on their 1/4mile time or will this be better impacted by changing the rear end to a 3.73 or 4.10?

With a manual trans swapped crown vic you need to run 3.73 or 4.10 anyways so it give you the advantage of a better 60' then it,s all about the motor.
I won several races against some marauder just because I could do better 60'

Thanks again 2004_p71. I'm not very familiar with quarter mile runs, but I would think higher gears would make the 60' time worse due to wheel spin?

Yes with a manual swapped vic and 3.73 you can break the tire loose from a dead stop but when you drag race you want to avoid any wheel spin... you need slicks and a good amount of practice before achieving some good 60' times.

I had it wrong. I had thought the higher the number (4.10>3.73) the greater the power/torque multiplier. If you get better traction with a higher number than it's the other way around.