So, I took the dash off in my 2008 CVPI in order to take the heater core out, and found that some of the bolts to get the heater core out are impossible to get to (unlike the older CVPIs). Is there a way to get around this, or am I screwed?
Also, I managed to break the gear shifter cable (totally forgot about it when lowering the steering column). How does one go about getting a replacement and putting it in?
Thanks
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2008 CVPI | October 2015-present
October 2015: 156,256 miles February 2017: 212,000 miles
Click the dancing emoticons in my signature. It will take you to my guide that will walk you thru step by step.
You should not need to replace a heater core yet on a 2008 model year. They shipped factory with Motorcraft Gold which is essentially Zerex G-05 coolant. Heater cores should last upwards of 10 yrs from factory, and 5-7 yrs if you replace. The new one will never last as long due to electrolysis.
There is somthing MAJOR wrong with your car if the heater core failed this soon! You have electrolysis, or bad equipment grounding somwhere.
Only use a genuine Ford Motorcraft heater core. There is also a company that will customer make you a brass / bronze heater core but its $250 + shipping.
I just parted out a 2010 and the procedure is fresh in my mind, pm me if you get stuck.
The heater core has not completely failed yet, but there is a coolant-like bubbling noise coming from that area on acceleration and you can smell coolant in the the cabin when the heat is on. To me, that is obviously a heater core problem, but I am not every experienced... Part of the reason why I got a Crown Vic was to learn about cars. It looks like I may have skipped a step following your guide last night (it looks like I didn't even try to pull the heater core assembly away from the dash. I was tired and must've not tried). I will make sure to come back to this thread or PM you if I need help. Thanks a bunch.
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2008 CVPI | October 2015-present
October 2015: 156,256 miles February 2017: 212,000 miles
Before running the hoses to your heater core, bypass it with some hose so that you do not ruin the new core.
Buy a cheap multimeter and set it to read DC volts. Have the display read .000 paying attenetion to the decimal point. Place the black lead on the - battery terminal and the red wire on the + battery terminal whie car is fully hot and at idle. Anything over + or - .300vdc is bad. If this happens let me know there is an extensive procedure to follow to chemically stop this. If you reconnect your core with a bad reading, the "new" metal will be attacked and be eaten alive within 6 months or less.
I am hoping your failure is because of bad grounding of the police equipment they had installed.
"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world, MARINES don't have that problem" President Ronald Reagan
99 P71 Ex-Greenwich CT Det. car. New Ford crate engine. Deep Wedgewood Blue. Big 4 upgrade, 370amp alt w/overdrive pulley. ARA3 PCM. High power CB'er for 35 years. GMRS Operator Midland MXT400
Currently, I am having problems getting the heater core assembly down so I can take the heater core out. I took the two 10MM nuts that are made visible when removing the glove box out, but there seems to be another one on the top that is difficult to get to. I need to take that out, right? Is it also 10mm like the ones on the bottom? Are there any other bolts that I need to get out? Additionally, I am having trouble getting the hoses off. The clamps were moved up far enough to where they have no affect, but the hoses aren't budging. What is the best way to deal with this? I can provide pictures later, if need be. I would have them now, but my phone is not cooperating.
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2008 CVPI | October 2015-present
October 2015: 156,256 miles February 2017: 212,000 miles
Registered: 02/07/09
Posts: 2155
Loc: Communist CT
Little advice. While you have everything "apart" which is not easy by yourself, replace the blend door actuator. And anything else you cannot get to with the dash in.
You can thank me later.
Hoses. Cut the length wise at the core with a utility knife. They will come right off. Just replace them, they are cheap enough. Good insurance.
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"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world, MARINES don't have that problem" President Ronald Reagan
99 P71 Ex-Greenwich CT Det. car. New Ford crate engine. Deep Wedgewood Blue. Big 4 upgrade, 370amp alt w/overdrive pulley. ARA3 PCM. High power CB'er for 35 years. GMRS Operator Midland MXT400
UPDATES: The heater core assembly is still not coming out. Two nuts on the bottom and one nut on the top of the assembly (behind the blend door actuator) have been removed. The "problem stud" on in the engine bay has at its nut taken off, and it was hammered at the same time as the heater core assembly being pulled back. Now I am stuck with this situation:
Anyone know what's up?
Also, big shout out to Fordiesel69 for helping me and continuing to help me through PMs.
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2008 CVPI | October 2015-present
October 2015: 156,256 miles February 2017: 212,000 miles
Your picture creates a lot of clarity. You need to take the nuts off from the inside side. They're the same Location of the engine side. Those studs are held against the firewall and therefore you have to take off the inside nuts not the outside nuts. That top nut is tough to get off!
Edited by SteveH (02/11/1610:49 AM)
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1985 Country Squire (aka Woody) 1981 Lincoln Mark V1
Okay, so, the three nuts that connect the heater core to the firewall have been removed. This includes the nut behind the blend door actuator. Furthermore, the stud on the outside of the firewall straight up came out, so that is not holding it in. The heater core assembly is looser than it's ever been, but the dang thing will not come out. I have no idea what to do.
Proof that the nut behind the blend door actuator is out:
Absence of "problem stud":
"Problem stud(s)":
Video showing how much leeway I have with the heater core assembly:
Either there is something else attaching the heater core assembly to the firewall, or the vent is causing this problem. If it's the vent, I seriously have no idea how to pull it out. I can't get the heater core assembly to got up far enough.
Edited by Rjhart (02/11/1605:43 PM)
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2008 CVPI | October 2015-present
October 2015: 156,256 miles February 2017: 212,000 miles
Pushing a rod into the heater core form the firewall worked! The assembly is out. However, somehow one of the bottom studs fell out and I have no idea how to get it back in. I know it goes through the firewall, but I'm not sure where (or how to get to it). Might be a problem...
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2008 CVPI | October 2015-present
October 2015: 156,256 miles February 2017: 212,000 miles
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