Just checked my sources, Toyota has been doing it since 2014...

Oh lovely. Further evidence I should take a look at getting a 2011 CV when the time comes. Should probably start looking now.

I had not heard that before, so I just asked my brother (Toyota test engineer), and he confirmed that several of their engines have gone that way.

Not a big deal, the tools are readily available. Apparently you can still remove the filter cover with a 3/8" ratchet extension or channel locks, but the tool makes it much easier.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/48206820?wmlsp...594&veh=sem

Have no fear. Embrace change.

There is a trend back to cartridge style oil filters. Welcome back using a roll of toilet paper as a filter.

Oil is black because it holds in suspension carbon and other combustion by products, like it is supposed to. If I drive most of the miles on my 285,000 mile Grand Marquis, the oil is black in the first 1,000 miles. If it is only my wife driving, it is still golden brown at 5,000 miles.

I have always filled to the top of the cross hatch area (usually 5.5 quarts), and until recently (last 60k or so miles) I didn't have to add. Now I can add a pint at 3000 miles and be at the bottom cross hatch at 5000 miles. I don't consider that excessive use.

Anyone in Detroit remember Ramchargers? They used to sell a screw on oil filter that used a toilet paper roll filter.

No more so than taking it off after draining for a complete oil change. You might have to add 1/2 quart back after swapping filters but it's not gonna drain all the oil out of the pan 'cause the oil is all below the filter adapter and on the far side of the oil pump.

Just pull the car upon the ramps .... shut the engine off .... let sit a shot while to cool off, etc .... and swap the oil filter ..... and then start engine and let it run a few moments .... park on level .... shut off .... wait a few moments to drain back .... check oil level.

The Fram OCD is more of a internet myth than fact, I've never had a issue with one and were all I used for years... I WILL NOT use a Purolator Classic as those tend to have iffy anti drain back valves that cause noisy startup because filter has lost it oil... Plus there have been issues with tears in the pleats...

Some oils darken with use, but generally it's because as engine wears blowby becomes greater, that contaminants and overheats(which darkens) the oil in piston ring lands and on cylinder walls... On any engine that quickly darkens oil it's likely not a good to do extended changes... 3-4K mi with dino would by my routine and exactly what the beater F-150 gets... I've run the '07 over 11K mi and the '98 9500mi using Mobil 1 and oil was still cleaner than the truck at 3K mi...

Back in Dec I picked up 46 quarts of Pennzoil Platinum SRT 0W-40 at A Zone closeout for $2 a quart... For the next couple years that will be in both my MGMs, truck and probably the T-Bird...

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/reference.html

I'll +1 everyone who recommends that you use the Fram until your next change. I had a loose Fram I got on an oil change special and that's currently on the Marquis. No big deal. Otherwise, FL820S or Purolator PureOne for me.

Change intervals on Panthers? Eh. After hearing about CNGInterceptor going something absurd like 17k on a change (before he started tearing the car apart), I go 5-7k on the Marquis with synthetic and don't even think about it. I admit to 3-4k intervals on the Marauder with full synthetic just because.

Fram Ultra oil filters are top tier.

An example from BITOG

I have a stash of MC 820s filters that I am slowly bringing back to Walmart, as they have repeated tear issues after switch to Purolator, which was in turn acquired. To put it bluntly, I'd avoid Motorcraft like a plague right now. There are multiple tear reports on this particular filter. Used to be the go to filter for me. Mobil 1 gives start-up noise. Fram Ultra is fine and of higher quality than M1 anyway. NAPA Platinum is a very good option, no noise, and they are on sale at reasonable price levels a couple of times per year.

Color of spent oil is meaningless nowadays.

Here is a recent discussion, involving an MC filter. And you can find a few recent MC 820s autopsies with tears and low build quality there. Pity, it used to be a very good filter..

For the longest time, I read positive review after positive review of the 820 on BITOG. Now this. I may have to cut open my next few oil changes and see what it looks like inside.

I think like anything, changing the oil at regular intervals with any decent quality filter and you will be fine. My dad has a Ford Van with almost 300k on it and its always had Motorcraft filters on it without issue.

Motorcraft changed the manufacturer for the 820 recently, and the manufacturer changed hands. Corners are being cut somewhere.
I hope they will clean their act sooner than later.

Yeah, now I am ascared!

Synthetic oil is for cars that say on the 710 cap to use synthetic oil. Don't use it in the 4.6 as its a waste. If you want the added detergents in a fancy oil just use some atf . add a art and run the engine till warmed up, then drain the oil. I see what happens to peoples cars that use syn oil like amsoil and go twelve or fourteen k on the same oil. I end up tearing the engine down and clean the bearings out of the pan sump . use normal oil change it at 3500 to 5000 miles, if your a short triper every 3000. And for oil consumption yes all cars do it, the rings don't scrape the oil off and some is left exposed to combustion . as the new low tension ri GS of newer cars wear they will burn more , faster.