Hi Guys,
Car so far has 110900 miles,
Original fuel pump,
Could someone with knowledge of how long rear axle seals last, give me a figure please.
The emergency brake on our C/Vic needs adjustment,
I was going to replace the rear axle seals,
change the oil in the rear axle,
check out the brake shoes and adjust or replace the cable if necessary.
But if the rear axle seals last for 200,000 or more I would leave them alone.
Thanks for your advice in advance.

There isnt really a set time when they go.

My 03 - 220,000km and both went
My 08 - 180,000km and drivers side went
My 05 - 10,000km and drivers side went

It all depends on the weather deteriorating the seal, or if the bearing is starting to go bad and chews up the seal. Id say if you are really dead set on changing the diff fluid then for sure change out both sides seals and bearings. Because when they leak it gets all over the brakes and coats them with dirt and diff oil which can ruin the pads and parking brakes. Not to mention be a stinky mess.

Hi Black Crome,
Thank you very much perfect answer,
I will change then out
thanks

At around 145K on my 98 one of mine started to seep, replaced both seals and bearings. Get timken bearings (rock has them cheap) and motorcraft seals. The cost is minimal if you DIY. The parts were under $30, less than an oil change. A shop would probably charge $400. Lots of piece of mind for another 100K at least.

A 85 box I had went around the same mileage...Had to put a saver bearing beacuse it ate the axle.

My left seal went with 75k on it.

Get your parts from a local parts store. Few extra bucks but the fact that they have the bearing puller which can be rented for free is well worth it. Rent the tool and you'll be done in no time with minimal to zero cussing.

The bearing in my 00 just went at 257k miles. It started leaking finally, but I don't think it was a seal failure, it failed because the bearing let the axle move around and no longer seal.

Thanks more answers,
It seems to me that 100,000 miles is about average for the seal to start leaking.
But now Bangster has me thinking I’m all wrong.
How about this, if new shoes are needed then I will put in new seals and bearings, but if they are okay, just clean it all up and drive on.
Also you are lucky to find Timken bearings.
Do people not like Motorcraft bearings because they are not Timken.

Generally the seals just don't stop sealing, you generally won't see any indication of it not sealing unless the bearing goes out.

I found a tire tread mark of gooey oil, so I dug into mine. Once I had the wheel in the air and could move it around quite a bit, and everything was oily, it was obvious what it was. I doubt the seal actually failed, it probably would still seal now with the new bearing.

look for stuff like that:






I personally wouldn't replace the bearing and seal unless there was indication of failure, or you have it torn down for some serious work.

You can adjust the parking brake from the backing plate (remove the rubber plug), and the cable, if that needs it. I guess I live a charmed life, but I can't detect any wear on the parking brake shoes on my car:


What I would do is pull the tires and calipers and rotors, check for the shoe friction material and that everything is in place, and no obvious signs of gear oil being slung around. If that all looks good I would change to gear oil and adjust the shoes and/or the cable.

Well when you answer you answer good.
Thank you for the EXCELLENT pictures.You know how to shoot with a camera too.
You’re right, there should be no need to change parts, I have changed the diff oil already in the car’s life. This will be the second time.
I will be expecting to see some wear on the shoes, several times the emergency brake has been left on for a block or 2. My bad.
My local dealership wants $40 a piece for bearings, where as a dealer in MN only wants less than $27.
Just need a weekend with no rain, temperature is usually good this time of year.

If the car has ever had the brakes abused, several high speed stops in rapid succession, or dragging calipers. The brakes will heat up the whole end of the axles, wheels and rear end housing. The seal is rubber, and the severe heat can cause it to harden, crack, and rapidly fail after that.

An extreme case:

Our car has no signs of leaking oil yet, (can’t be seen on the rim or tire anyhow.)
But you are right leaving the e/brake on for any length of time does cause extra heat.
Thankfully the video was not of a C/Vic.