#4112700 - 06/16/21 08:03 PM
A/C Issues Please help
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n00b
Registered: 05/07/17
Posts: 25
Loc: Arizona USA
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Hey guys it’s been a long while since I’ve been on here and asked a question so please. Forgive me if this has already been answered somewhere, I have a 2011 P7b and I live in Arizona so my AC is a must have, just recently my ac went from blowing cold to blowing hot air in a couple hours. Compressor kicks on I also noticed a tiny squeak when running and while running it on Max AC blower on high I checked the line pressure and it’s over charged. Think it’s time for a new compressor or maybe something else I should check first? Thanks in advance for any help
_________________________
2011 P7B FFV
5% twice all around
245/35zr20 on all corners
Smoked head and tails
Flow master 40s
Basically stock
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#4112726 - 06/17/21 09:54 AM
Re: A/C Issues Please help
[Re: Medusa2_0]
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Climber
Registered: 02/26/08
Posts: 927
Loc: North Carolina
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If you're clueless, it would be best to find a shop you can or already do trust to have a look. Your learning curve will be pretty steep for an Arizona summer. In my opinion, it would be better to suck it up and have a professional do it right, and then you can learn at your own pace to do it yourself the next time it happens.
If the compressor runs continuously, that's a good sign. It means your charge is probably still good. If it's on and off every few seconds, that's bad. Usually means low charge. It could have been a rapid, catastrophic loss.
Are you seeing any greenish spots under the car up front where the a/c system components are located? When the oil in the system leaks out with the refrigerant, it usually (but not always)has a dye in it to assist in leak detection. Even if it doesn't drop on the ground, there could be signs on the a/c system parts. A black light or even a sniffer will help locate leaks.
Normally, systems degrade over the years and one spring, after not thinking about the a/c for several months, it seems to be down on performance, not as cold as it was last summer. Lots of places for the refrigerant to seep out of old o-rings and seals.
If, like you say, it was fine and a couple hours later blowing hot, it could be a blend door issue.
If the compressor runs and stays on, have someone put some real gauges on it to get the numbers, not the little go/no go gauges on the large bottle of Super Cool Icy Freeze. That will tell you the state of charge.
If your liquid line and receiver/drier are cold enough to drip condensation and too cold to leave your hand on, that's good.
I don't know anything about the newer system's components as I'm stuck in the stone ages with my 97. But the principles are the same. Good luck.
_________________________
97 CVPI, 155K miles
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#4112746 - 06/17/21 12:05 PM
Re: A/C Issues Please help
[Re: Medusa2_0]
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Climber
Registered: 04/02/18
Posts: 965
Loc: Pa
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I have just successfully changed my compressor, accumulator, condenser, o rings, orifice tube, and evacuated and recharged the ac system myself so I have some experience. Ok, so you say your system is overcharged, how do you know that? You need to hook up a manifold gauge to the system to see what the pressures are. You then look at the r134a refrigerant pressure temperature chart that tells you what the pressure should be on the low and high side in correlation to the ambient temperature. https://www.jamcoautoparts.com/systempressuretroubleshootingchart/If you don't want to do this, or you don't have the tools, the easiest and quickest way to fix this is to take it to a shop that will evacuate your refrigerant properly and recharge it with the correct amount of refrigerant. If you're indeed overcharged on refrigerant you need to take it to a shop anyway so it's looking like you should take this to a shop anyway. 4 cans of 12oz Dupont Suva R-134a refrigerant and a new manifold gauge set will cost the same as a shop servicing your car provided you have no leaks and you don't need any other AC repair work.
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#4112748 - 06/17/21 12:23 PM
Re: A/C Issues Please help
[Re: Rootintootin]
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Climber
Registered: 04/02/18
Posts: 965
Loc: Pa
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If you're clueless, it would be best to find a shop you can or already do trust to have a look. Your learning curve will be pretty steep for an Arizona summer. In my opinion, it would be better to suck it up and have a professional do it right, and then you can learn at your own pace to do it yourself the next time it happens.
If the compressor runs continuously, that's a good sign. It means your charge is probably still good. If it's on and off every few seconds, that's bad. Usually means low charge. It could have been a rapid, catastrophic loss.
Are you seeing any greenish spots under the car up front where the a/c system components are located? When the oil in the system leaks out with the refrigerant, it usually (but not always)has a dye in it to assist in leak detection. Even if it doesn't drop on the ground, there could be signs on the a/c system parts. A black light or even a sniffer will help locate leaks.
Normally, systems degrade over the years and one spring, after not thinking about the a/c for several months, it seems to be down on performance, not as cold as it was last summer. Lots of places for the refrigerant to seep out of old o-rings and seals.
If, like you say, it was fine and a couple hours later blowing hot, it could be a blend door issue.
If the compressor runs and stays on, have someone put some real gauges on it to get the numbers, not the little go/no go gauges on the large bottle of Super Cool Icy Freeze. That will tell you the state of charge.
If your liquid line and receiver/drier are cold enough to drip condensation and too cold to leave your hand on, that's good.
I don't know anything about the newer system's components as I'm stuck in the stone ages with my 97. But the principles are the same. Good luck.
Yea that Super Cool Icy Freez has stuff in it other then 134a that can mess up a shops recovery machine to the point where if they know you have charged your system with it they won't evacuate your system or give you a hard time. I think the newer machines can detect if there is anything other then 134a before it starts to evacuate. Also, the can has plastic fittings and guage that are a joke! Someone is going to get hurt if it hasn't already happened. 134a can blind you if it were to escape or burst into your eyes. I charged the vic using 3 12oz cans of Dupont Suva 134a refrigant (made in USA in wilmington delaware) using a can tap and a new manifold guage set. Used a 4th can and a digital temperature gauge placed in the vent and added just a little more while watching the temperature and as soon as the temperature started to go up I stopped. Did some more tweaks also and insulated the lines and accumulator that were sweating with hot water pipe insulation. https://ibb.co/vzQszqx
Edited by Lance01 (06/17/21 12:30 PM)
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#4113012 - 06/19/21 01:43 PM
Re: A/C Issues Please help
[Re: Medusa2_0]
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n00b
Registered: 05/07/17
Posts: 25
Loc: Arizona USA
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Thanks for all the help guys I’ve taken it into consideration and well since I’d have to do this in my driveway with 115 degree heat and not have all the correct tools I’m just going to suck it up and take it in, the shop quoted me new compressor new accumulator orifice tube all gaskets and orings plus evac and charge for 875$. Sometimes it’s just better to have it done the right way I suppose. Really appreciate all the help guys thanks
_________________________
2011 P7B FFV
5% twice all around
245/35zr20 on all corners
Smoked head and tails
Flow master 40s
Basically stock
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