Intake again...sigh...

Posted by: Site66

Intake again...sigh... - 12/20/20 01:54 PM

Crap looks like my intake went bad again.

Replaced mine at 55,000 miles 3 years ago myself with a Ford racing mani & new metal felro gaskets torqued correctly.
Car has run perfect for 3 years and 30,000 miles a joy to drive no issues pulled hard.
On my weekly engine check noticed all of a sudden it was about an inch low on the degas tank. Oh No.
I have the level marked with a black marker on the tank
so know if it moves even slightly.
I got so pissed because I know what that means.

This will be my third intake on this platform and getting really old. A previous PI and this one.

The intake looks brand new all the nuts on the bottom in the front metal are ok look new no deformation or rot in that thermo area or the other side.

I know where all the leak areas are and checked them carefully multiple times I see no leaks anywhere on the intake and the little plastic heater connector on the back is fine no leaks there.Put cardboard on the ground at night to catch leak area no leaks.

Started about a month ago losing a little less than 1/4 of an inch a day. Just yesterday started the stumbling in idle crap it did identically last time it needed an intake and now got 2 PO300 misfires too. My Scangauge cant tell which cylinder though.I ordered another OBD tool.
I know its leaking but its leaking internally..

I suspect its leaking across the head deck under the mani at the first cylinder at the thermo area it had alot of pitting there at that area real close to the intake hole of #1 when I replaced it last.have pittiong on all 4 corners but not bad at all really except that thermostat area.
I filled that area pitting with black gasket permatex but I don't think that works long.

Also had the wife rev up the car and i see smoke out the exhaust now when she punched it so I know coolant is getting into the intake now.

I/m at 85,000 miles.

So aggravating i don't beat on the car have never even floored it once. No hard launches etc just an old man trying to get to work in his living room lol.

My question is what to do about that pitting? Will any of Muffler Weld in a tube stuff work if I smooth it out real good and slap the gasket on and bolt it up and let it sit for a few days to dry?

Or is it new head time?

I could kick myself now for not taking pictures of that damage.
Your hands are filthy so didn't want to pick up my phone I guess. Its off the road now now I'm off next week for 6 days so will tear it down again and send pics see if I need a new head or 2.

Thanks in advance.
Posted by: CrystalPistol

Re: Intake again...sigh... - 12/20/20 04:19 PM

The gaskets or O-rings don't seal well to pits like they do to smooth surfaces.

What I would do
is clean them heads until you'd feel good about eating off the surfaces, including in the pits. Then mix up some original formula J B Weld, spread it in the pits as a filler, then after a few hours, take a straight edge of plastic or aluminum and scrape smooth the J B Weld that will be stiff but not hard yet, then let it cure a full 24 hours.

Only when the surface is smooth with no dips or high spots and no pits, with any JBW being fully cured, would I reinstall the intake.

I CAUTION YOU ... Do not get in a rush and try to install gaskets over the uncured J B Weld as the JBW will cure and then pull the gasket seals. You want as near perfectly smooth head surfaces and then the gaskets can seal as designed.
Posted by: Site66

Re: Intake again...sigh... - 12/20/20 05:15 PM

Exactly what I wanted to hear as my only recourse would be to install new heads thank you thank you very much Crystal.

One more question please? I did not replace the pipe under the intake from the water pump to the hose heater inlet. Under the intake it looks good but where it comes out at the back of the engine where the hose is attached the metal on that pipe is flaking off.
How do you replace that pipe?

Will removing the water pump show that pipe connection? Mine is a NPI becasue I see no gap from the end of that pipe where it enters the water pump. I read the BOK and it was confusing. I understand how the nipple is installed but how is the pipe in the valley connected to the nipple?

Thanks again.
Posted by: CrystalPistol

Re: Intake again...sigh... - 12/20/20 10:07 PM

That original formular J B Weld will cure and be as tough as the auminum head, it's good to near 600 degrees as I recall, it just likes to cure slow so let it cure.

Coolant pipe ... There's a retainer at the back end, remove the hose and unfasten the retainer, the pipe slides off it's nipple towards the rear, it has two O-rings between it and the nipple that exits the back of the water pump cavity. If not rusty, it'll be OK but if rusty, etc, you'll need to remove the water pump (has it's own O-ring, no gasket) and take the nipple out the through that way, it's a press fit. I have seen guys knock it out but I have seen a engine block busted there too, so I'd use a large deep socket to receive it and threaded rod and nuts to pull it out slowly, and to install the new one. If not leaking, if no rust, if the car has had proper coolant it's life, I'd leave it be.