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#1049195 - 10/21/06 12:50 PM Hey, help me out!
zerocool Offline
n00b

Registered: 09/23/06
Posts: 12
Loc: Florida


backstory:

Changed the transmission fluid and filter this morning. Found this ^^ sitting in the filter. Any idea what it is?

The car's a 97 crown vic.

thanks! Any help is appreciated.

Quote:

Thanks everyone. Changed the transmission fluid as sort of a diagnostic step towards a possibly bigger problem and found this.
Good to know it's just a plug.

as for the other issue, maybe some advice?
Here is what is happening. 1997 Crown vic v8 o/d trans. I test drove this car and really put it to it . Also put it on the rack and checked it out real nice no problem. One day it would, at 45 to 50mph, not slip but continue to speed upk not shifting into o/d. Now if I wind it up to 60 = it shifts into o/d or 4th gear or you can pop the gas pedal and it will shift. Also if you tap the o/d button on shifter it wil shift. It started out a sometimes thing, to all the time. Went down to the local transmission repair for free check/road test. They say they can't be sure unless they charge me between 150-300 dollars to look at servos and whatnot -saying it has a bad servo or possibly worse don’t drive it, only local as needed until you can get it us to repair. I Then was told possibly 1800 for rebuild. Larry "Magic Mechanic", told me to #1 Drop pan change fluid ,filter and try to drain torque coverter too. It was building rpm and before it shifted at 60= it chirped and kind of klunked in gear. Any other suggestions would be helpful, don't want to get ripped off by transmission shop.



-Ken


Edited by Zerocool (10/21/06 01:22 PM)

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#1049196 - 10/21/06 12:58 PM Re: Hey, help me out!
DodgeRider Offline
Formerly 2004CVPIDave
Over the Hill

Registered: 03/18/05
Posts: 3977
Loc: Kansas City
Correct me if I'm wrong but that was there in the factory as a (here's the part I need to make sure I'm right on) stop plug in the dipstick hose... it should have been removed when the tranny was first flushed.... I believe this is completely normal and is harmless to remove.

Anyone wanna back me up on this? I only learned about this a couple weeks back so.... please correct me if I'm wrong.
_________________________
Real men do it in 4 doors! -
1991 Suzuki Katana 750 (Cyan/Magenta) - 21K - 748cc, 13,000RPM
2006 F150 SuperCab 4x4 (Black) - 55K - 5.4L 3V, 3.73 LSD, Chrome Pkg
2005 Chebby Malibu (2.2L) - 65K - Lady's Car (Mods: RainX, Winter Washer Fluid, Anco Wipers)

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#1049197 - 10/21/06 01:01 PM Re: Hey, help me out!
rayN Offline
Over the Hill

Registered: 11/01/04
Posts: 3363
Loc: Lethbridge, Alberta, Canada
You're correct
it's a dipstick plug.. so when they put the dipstick in, the plug falls off into the pan.
_________________________
1992 P72.
320,000 Km
1998 P71
150,000 Km
2002 p71
130,000 Km

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#1049198 - 10/21/06 01:08 PM Re: Hey, help me out!
xpdp71 Offline
Member

Registered: 12/08/03
Posts: 158
I concure. So the chances that that pan has never been off is pretty high.
_________________________
Current Car:
2004 P71 Former King County, Washington State Sheriffs Office K9 Unit


Former cars

1993 White Caprice Greshem Oregon PD
1998 Silver Vic Yakima Washinton Sheriff
1998 White Vic Kenmore Washinton Police
2000 Green Vic Pierce County Sheriff

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#1049199 - 10/21/06 01:14 PM Re: Hey, help me out!
Captain J Offline
Over the Hill

Registered: 11/03/05
Posts: 2890
Thats what it is. Just toss it out. WOW, that is a long time to go with out dropping the pan. I bet the magnate looks like a big fuzzy donut with all the metal it has collected.
_________________________
2007 CVPI (Last one was a 2002).
Mods: Paint job and a detail.
R/T Charger with more mods then can be listed (Pro Charger SC, Heads, Cam, ect...)
http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=sWS-FoXbjVI&feature=related
http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=pKFKGrmsBDk

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#1049200 - 10/21/06 01:21 PM Re: Hey, help me out!
zerocool Offline
n00b

Registered: 09/23/06
Posts: 12
Loc: Florida
Thanks everyone. Changed the transmission fluid as sort of a diagnostic step towards a possibly bigger problem and found this.
Good to know it's just a plug.

as for the other issue, maybe some advice?
Here is what is happening. 1997 Crown vic v8 o/d trans. I test drove this car and really put it to it . Also put it on the rack and checked it out real nice no problem. One day it would, at 45 to 50mph, not slip but continue to speed upk not shifting into o/d. Now if I wind it up to 60 = it shifts into o/d or 4th gear or you can pop the gas pedal and it will shift. Also if you tap the o/d button on shifter it wil shift. It started out a sometimes thing, to all the time. Went down to the local transmission repair for free check/road test. They say they can't be sure unless they charge me between 150-300 dollars to look at servos and whatnot -saying it has a bad servo or possibly worse don’t drive it, only local as needed until you can get it us to repair. I Then was told possibly 1800 for rebuild. Larry "Magic Mechanic", told me to #1 Drop pan change fluid ,filter and try to drain torque coverter too. It was building rpm and before it shifted at 60= it chirped and kind of klunked in gear. Any other suggestions would be helpful, don't want to get ripped off by transmission shop.

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#1049201 - 10/21/06 01:35 PM Re: Hey, help me out!
Captain J Offline
Over the Hill

Registered: 11/03/05
Posts: 2890
Step 1) Ask one of the Johns when ever you have a tyranny problem. (Like JohnG) Perhaps you can just add some magical ford additive or something?

Step 2) If that car never had the pan dropped then the rear differential fluid was not changed. Do a search on the rear differential and the fluid to find the best way to change it. I did mine in 45 min, that means a competent person can do it in 30min or less. (It has nothing to do with your problem but you must do this asap)
_________________________
2007 CVPI (Last one was a 2002).
Mods: Paint job and a detail.
R/T Charger with more mods then can be listed (Pro Charger SC, Heads, Cam, ect...)
http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=sWS-FoXbjVI&feature=related
http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=pKFKGrmsBDk

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#1049202 - 10/21/06 01:46 PM Re: Hey, help me out!
gord_bolton Offline
Over the Hill

Registered: 05/06/02
Posts: 4691
Loc: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
If you are changing the fluid you will need to drain the torque converter at the same time. There is roughly twice as much fluid in the t/c as there is in the pan. Tranny fluid does degrade over time. There is a soft rubber plug under the bell housing that you can remove with a flat screwdriver. With the plug out you can view the bottom of the t/c. Place an approriate socket (18mm I think) over the crank bolt and facing the front of the vehicle rotate clockwise untill the drain plug is at the bottom and accessable. Remove the plug and allow to drain for about 1/2 hour.

Replace the fluid with Mercon V transmission fluid. While you are draining the t/c undo the battery cable for 1/2 hour to erase the adaptive memory in the computer.

It will have adjusted t/c settings to deal with thick and aged tranny fluid. Resetting the computer to the factory presets will help the computer adjust quicker to the new fluid.

Good luck.

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#1049203 - 10/21/06 01:51 PM Re: Hey, help me out!
Captain J Offline
Over the Hill

Registered: 11/03/05
Posts: 2890
Yes, yes, and do the following to help speed up the process:

From Metros page (http://www.redpulsar.us/~coldfusion/car.html)

On OBD-II Ford vehicles (most 1995-up Crown Vics, 96-up for other vehicles), whenever you disconnect the battery or basically reset the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) memory by disconnecting the module from the power supply thus resetting the idle and fuel trim strategy, you need to "re-train" your engine computer.

There are four idle trims:

* Neutral w/ AC OFF.
* Neutral w/ AC ON.
* Drive w/ AC OFF.
* Drive w/ AC ON.

By "retraining" the EEC to idle, we are allowing the EEC aka PCM enough time in each of those 4 conditions to learn the adaptive corrections.

Here's how to do it:

1). With the engine OFF, set the parking brake and make sure the gearshift is in PARK (for automatics).

2). Make sure all accessories are OFF (A/C, Vent, Heat, radio, etc...)

3). Start the engine, and let it run until it reaches normal operating temperature (until your temperature needle goes about halfway or where it normally goes after a good drive) this should take about 15-30 minutes depending on ambient temperature, possibly less on a hotter day.

4). Turn the A/C on, and allow the engine to idle for at least an additional minute.

5). Release the parking brake, leave the A/C on, and with your foot on the brake, shift into DRIVE and idle for at least an additional minute.

6). Now turn the A/C off, and idle for another minute.

6). Now you must drive your vehicle to complete the relearning process. The vehicle may need to be driven at least 10 miles or more for it to relearn the idle and fuel trim strategy.

That's all there is to it!


There are other methods discussed on the Internet regarding the relearning process, however this is the method explained in the owner's manual of late model Fords.
The only real differences are in step 6 - where some say you should do lots of stop and go driving, others say to drive with a lead foot, and finally others state that you should just drive it like you normally would. That I'll leave up to you - because in the end the PCM will eventually relearn the idle and fuel trim strategy, regardless of how you retrain it. This guide was made to give you an idea of what to do and what's involved.

Questions? Comments? Email me: metroplex

_________________________
2007 CVPI (Last one was a 2002).
Mods: Paint job and a detail.
R/T Charger with more mods then can be listed (Pro Charger SC, Heads, Cam, ect...)
http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=sWS-FoXbjVI&feature=related
http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=pKFKGrmsBDk

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#1049204 - 10/21/06 03:28 PM Re: Hey, help me out!
observer Offline
Over the Hill

Registered: 01/07/02
Posts: 3883
"The only real differences are in step 6 - where some say you should do lots of stop and go driving, others say to drive with a lead foot, and finally others state that you should just drive it like you normally would"

i think they are several tests the computer tries to do over and over. one which mine never completes is the egr. from what i read, i'm supposed to keep it steady under 45 mph for so many miles and the temp sensors must show the engine is not warmed up. it has been months and my scantool still says not ready. when the egr finally trips, the scan tool has egr codes to display

i read several pages in the ford cd about the adaptive processes. im sure its on the dvd too, just never saw it on there


_________________________
1997 P71 145K miles

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#1049205 - 10/21/06 03:50 PM Re: Hey, help me out!
observer Offline
Over the Hill

Registered: 01/07/02
Posts: 3883
drive cycle craziness
---------

Description of OBD II Drive Cycle

The purpose of the OBD II drive cycle is to execute the OBD II monitors and identify any concerns with the OBD II system. The DTC P1000 code will be erased of all OBD II monitors have completed during the OBD II drive cycle.

WARNING:
STRICT OBSERVANCE OF POSTED SPEED LIMITS AND ATTENTION TO DRIVING CONDITIONS ARE MANDATORY WHEN PROCEEDING THROUGH THE FOLLOWING DRIVE CYCLES.

The scan tool will be used to observe the status of each OBD II monitor at the completion of the OBD II drive cycle. The completion status of the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR), heated oxygen sensor (HO2S), evaporative emission (EVAP), secondary air injection (AIR) (if applicable) and catalyst efficiency monitors can be monitored during the OBD II drive cycle by viewing the On-Board Readiness Menu on the scan tool.

For the description and operation of each OBD II monitor, refer to «Section 1A».


Vehicle Preparation for OBD II or Monitor Repair Verification Drive Cycle

NOTE:
Vehicles equipped with power take off (PTO) must have this system disengaged before proceeding. Verify by viewing the PTO PID for OFF status.

1. Attach a scan tool and access the ECT, FLI, IAT PIDs.

Verify the IAT PID is between 10-38°C (50-100°F).

Verify the FLI PID is between 15% and 85% (only available on EVAP Running Loss systems).

2. Warm the vehicle until the ECT PID reaches a minimum of 54°C (130°F).

3. Clear all DTC's with the scan tool by pressing clear with the key on engine off. P1000 will remain. Leave the key in the ON position, and start the vehicle.

4. Access the On-Board System Readiness Menu on the scan tool to view the status of the OBD II monitors.

5. Proceed with the OBD II Drive Cycle or selected monitor repair verification drive cycle. Once started, the engine must not be turned off.


OBD II Drive Cycle

NOTE:
The IAT PID must be between 10-38°C (50-100°F) during the OBD II drive cycle to enter into all the OBD II monitors. The FLI PID must be between 15% and 85% at all times.

1. Drive in stop-and-go traffic with at lease 4 idle periods (30 seconds each) while observing the status of the OBD II monitor on the scan tool. If the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR), heated oxygen sensor (HO2S), evaporative emission (EVAP), secondary air (AIR) (if applicable) or catalyst efficiency monitor have not completed, drive on the highway at a constant speed over 64 km/hr (40 mph) not to exceed 104 km/hr (65 mph) for up to 15 minutes. Heavy accelerations, sudden decelerations and wide open throttles are not recommended. If the scan tool sends out a three pulse beep at any time, the OBD II drive cycle has completed.

NOTE:
Vehicles equipped with the EVAP purge flow system or EVAP vapor management flow system monitor do not require EVAP monitor completion to clear the DTC P1000 (refer to «Section 1A» for each monitor description).

If the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR), heated oxygen sensor (HO2S), evaporative emission (EVAP), secondary air injection (AIR) (if applicable) or catalyst efficiency monitor has not completed, perform the corresponding monitor verification drive cycle in this section.

2. Bring the vehicle to a stop and retrieve Continuous Memory DTCs to verify the DTC P1000 has been erased. Refer to Section 4A, Diagnostic Subroutine «DSR6».


Monitor Repair Verification Drive Cycles


Comprehensive Component Monitor Repair Verification Drive Cycle:

1. Refer to and complete the «Vehicle Application Preparation For OBD II Drive Cycle» before initiating the following repair verification steps.

2. Start the engine and go through the entire OBD II Drive Cycle until the Comprehensive Component Monitor shows the completion status by clearing the code P1000 on the scan tool.

3. If the entire OBD II Drive Cycle has been performed and the Comprehensive Component Monitor check has not completed, rerun «Quick Test». Refer to Section 4A, Diagnostic Subroutines, «DSR 1».


EGR Monitor Repair Verification Drive Cycle:

1. NOTE:
The ambient air temperature or IAT PID must read a minimum of 0°C (32°F) to initiate the EGR monitor.

Refer to and complete the Vehicle Application Preparation For OBD II Drive Cycle in this section before initiating the following repair verification steps.

2. Start the engine and drive the vehicle for 6 minutes.

a. Drive in stop-and-go traffic for 5 minutes with at least two idle periods.

b. Accelerate to 72 km/h (45 mph)(56 km/h [35 mph] on Escort/Tracer at more than 1/2 throttle). Maintain speed for 1 minute.

3. Rerun «Quick Test». Refer to Section 4A, Diagnostic Subroutine, «DSR 1».


EGR Monitor Repair Verification Drive Cycle For Probe Only:

1. Refer to and complete the Vehicle Application Preparation For OBD II Drive Cycle in this section before initiating the following repair verification steps.

2. Start the engine and drive the vehicle for 24 minutes.

a. Drive in stop-and-go traffic for 19 minutes with at least four idle periods.

b. Accelerate to 64 km/h (40 mph) at more than 1/2 throttle. Maintain speed for 1 minute.

c. Accelerate on highway to 89 km/h (55 mph). Maintain speed for 4 minutes.

3. Rerun «Quick Test». Refer to Section 4A, Diagnostic Subroutine, «DSR 1».


EVAP Running Loss Monitor System Repair Verification Drive Cycle:

1. Perform the Preparation for OBD II Drive Cycle section.

2. With the scan tool, verify the FTP V PID reads between 2.4 and 2.8 volts with the gas cap removed. Reinstall gas cap.

3. With the scan tool, view the OBD II monitors through the On-Board System Readiness Menu.

4. Drive the vehicle at a constant speed between 56 km/hr (35 mph) and 104 km/hr (65 mph) with throttle as steady as possible. Observe the HO2S monitor on the scan tool until it completes (or refer to the Fuel Monitor or HO2S Monitor repair Verification Drive Cycle in this section).

5. Bring the vehicle to a stop and access the following PIDs with the scan tool: IAT, FLI, FTP, V, EVAPPDC, EVAPCV

6. Verify the following EVAP monitor entry condition: IAT between 10-38° (50-100°F).

7. Drive the vehicle on the highway with a constant speed over 64 km/hr (40 mph) with throttle as steady as possible. During this time, verify the following additional EVAP monitor entry conditions using the FLI and FTPV PIDs.

FLI stable ± 5% between the limits of 15% and 85% tank fill.

FTP V stable within ±0.1 volt.

8. Prior to running the EVAP monitor, when the EVAPPDC PID is less than 75%, the canister vent solenoid is open and the system is unsealed. To initiate the EVAP monitor, the EVAPPDC PID must increase to at least 75%. At this time, the EVAPCV PID will then display 100% (canister vent solenoid closed to seal the system and the monitor will begin to run. Continue to drive at steady throttle with light steering until the EVAPCV PID displays 0% (canister vent solenoid open, system unsealed). If this step does not occur as described, proceed to the following note, otherwise proceed to Step 9.

NOTE:
During the drive cycle or hot ambient temperatures, fuel vapor (from the canister and/or tank) may keep the test from starting. This can be observed on the can tool when either:

(1) The EVAPPDC PID never reaches 75% with stable FLI and FTP PID readings.

(2) The EVAPCV PID never goes to 100% (canister vent never closes) when the EVAPPDC PID is above the 75% minimum to start the test.

9. Bring the vehicle to a stop.

10. With the scan tool, view the EVAP monitor for completion through the On-Board System Readiness Menu. Repeat Step 7 if the EVAP monitor is not complete.


Evaporative Emission Monitor Repair Verification Drive Cycle For Probe Only:

1. Check the IAT PID on the scan tool to make sure that the intake air temperature (or ambient temperature) is 4°C (40°F) or greater to initiate the drive cycle.

2. Start the engine and drive the vehicle for 6 minutes.

a. Drive in stop-and-go traffic for 5 minutes with at least two idle periods.

b. Accelerate to 64 km/h (40 mph). Maintain speed for 1 minute.

3. Rerun «Quick Test». Refer to Section 4A, Diagnostic Subroutine «DSR 1.»


Catalyst Monitor Repair Verification Drive Cycle:

1. Refer to and complete the Vehicle Application Preparation For OBD II Drive Cycle in this section before initiating the following repair verification steps.

2. Start the engine and drive the vehicle for 25 minutes.

a. Drive in stop-and-go traffic for 20 minutes, include six different constant speeds between 40 and 72 km/h (25 and 45 mph).

b. Drive on expressway or highway for an additional 5 minutes.

3. Rerun «Quick Test». Refer to Section 4A, Diagnostic Subroutine «DSR 1».


Fuel Monitor or HO2S Monitor Repair Verification Drive Cycle:

1. Refer to and complete the «Vehicle Application Preparation For OBD II Drive Cycle» in this section before initiating the following repair verification steps.

2. Start the engine and drive the vehicle for 7 minutes.

a. Drive in stop-and-go traffic for 6 minutes, include one idle.

b. Accelerate to 72 km/h (45 mph) [56 km/h (35 mph) on Escort/Tracer at more than 1/2 throttle]. Maintain speed for 1 minute.

3. Rerun «Quick Test». Refer to Section 4A, Diagnostic Subroutine, «DSR 1»


Misfire Monitor Repair Verification Drive Cycle:

1. For applications with the Fuel Level Input (FLI) circuit to the PCM (Pin 12), check the fuel gauge and the FLI PID on the scan tool (if available). The Misfire Monitor can only be tested if the fuel gauge reads above one quarter full or the FLI PID is above 15% (percentage fuel tank fill).

2. Start the engine and drive the vehicle to a location where speeds can reach 88 to 97 km/h (55 to 60 mph) and coast down to 64 km/h (40 mph) without traffic interference.

3. Accelerate at wide-open throttle to allow vehicle to shift at red-line (if equipped with a tachometer). Immediately return to normal speed limits.

4. Perform the following drive procedure three consecutive times.

a. Accelerate on highway to 97 km/h (60 mph). Maintain speed for 30 seconds.

b. Coast down with foot off the accelerator pedal from 97 km/h to 64 km/h (60 mph to 40 mph).

5. Rerun «Quick Test». Refer to Section 4A, Diagnostic Subroutine, «DSR 1».


Secondary Air Monitor Repair Verification Drive Cycle:

1. Refer to and complete the «Vehicle Application Preparation For OBD II Drive Cycle» in this section before initiating the following repair verification steps.

2. Start the engine and proceed through the entire OBD II Drive Cycle until the Secondary Air Monitor shows the On-Board Readiness Menu completion status on the scan tool.

3. If the entire OBD II Drive Cycle has been performed and the Secondary Air Monitor check has not completed, rerun «Quick Test». Refer to Section 4A, Diagnostic Subroutine, «DSR 1».

_________________________
1997 P71 145K miles

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#1049206 - 10/21/06 04:00 PM Re: Hey, help me out!
zerocool Offline
n00b

Registered: 09/23/06
Posts: 12
Loc: Florida
t/c was drained as best as possible. Ignition slightly turned to help squirt out additional fluid.
I have the battery disconnected as we speak.
Thanks again everyone who's responded.

-Ken

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#1049207 - 10/21/06 04:41 PM Re: Hey, help me out!
Cougrrcj Offline
All Panther, all the time!!!
Over the Hill

Registered: 08/30/03
Posts: 4289
Loc: N.E. Ohio
That is the plug used at the factory to keep crap out of the dipstick hole until the car is assembled. The dipstick gets rammed on top of the plug and pushes it into the pan.

The Ford dealership I frequent calls that a 'Cherry'. It kinda looks like a cherry, but the real reason is that it also means the pan has never been off -- a 'virgin' -- if you will. That gives the 'cherry' term a double meaning...
_________________________


89 Crown Vic LX - daily driver - 393 stroker/ WR-AOD!!! New Best ET - 13.068 Best MPH - 106.58, Best 60' - 1.86

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#1049208 - 10/21/06 04:46 PM Re: Hey, help me out!
Captain J Offline
Over the Hill

Registered: 11/03/05
Posts: 2890
Remember to change the rear diff with Mobil 1 synthetic and the additive from ford if you have a track lock. (Do a search on this and you will find out all you need if you have questions.)
_________________________
2007 CVPI (Last one was a 2002).
Mods: Paint job and a detail.
R/T Charger with more mods then can be listed (Pro Charger SC, Heads, Cam, ect...)
http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=sWS-FoXbjVI&feature=related
http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=pKFKGrmsBDk

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