Well, that may not be true Ryan.
As I recall, Okie found that gem of an '06 in a dealer lot, sitting left over. The car has been sitting outside, somewhat neglected for possibly a year or more. Add to that a few quick and dirty dealer car washes and you have a high probability of not only contamination, but also light swirling.
Using the claybar before the wax leaves the paint free of above-surfaces contaminants, a 'clean slate' for the wax or polishes of your choice. Even a BRAND-NEW car will have plenty of above surface contamination by the time it hits the dealer lot, a mild claybar works great to remove all this to get the finish back to how it was before it was shipped out
There are now claybar kits sold just for this, removing contaminents on new/like-new cars.
I was unaware he had any build-up issues, it would have been a good idea to use clay before hand. BUT, if he doesn't want to spend the time doing that, a cleaner/wax may have been OK
for him as the light cleaning abrasives will help to remove the same contaminants the clay bar would. In this case, the light cleaning ability works to his benefit - not only to remove the dirt but also help to remove some of the larger swirls and light scratches, if any.
dRock: sounds like you know your waxes. I go by the statement, "Safe for clearcoat finishes". However, it does have to be abrasive to some extent in order to clean oxidation.
Yes, it is definitely safe for clear coats - it will not damage or deteriorate the clear coat. And you're right-on about the abrasives, which are why there is a possibility of swirling the hard clear coat paint finish. This has nothing to do with it being safe for use, rather, solely the abrasives used in the formulation. Any cleaner/wax has some abrasive/cleaning power, with that means virtually any cleaner/wax can leave micro-marring of the paint finish.
To remove a defect in paint, you have to remove
paint surrounding to make it level with the defect. A cleaner/wax uses it's abrasives to very lightly remove a small amount of the clear coat finish to level fine scratches and large swirls and remove oxidation. This is fine, and effective, however these light abrasives will also leave their own very very fine scratches from doing their 'work'
If this is not followed by a finer abrasive paint cleaner, the very light scratches will remain. The scratches are so small, they cannot be seen from even just a few feet away, it is commonly referred to as micro-marring. So
... Would you notice this?
Unless you have a showcar finish - Probably not. Especially after just one time. But if you did this every detailing session, the finish will slowly get duller as the micro-marring gets worse. IOW, you won't notice any immediate effects, or even if you did it numerous times in a row. But eventually
, over a few years you will slowly notice the paint getting duller. This is why you shouldn't use a cleaner/wax unless you need to. At this time this won't apply to you, but even if it did happen this can be removed using simple paint correction techniques, products a DA.
Now, don't think by using a cleaner/wax you're destroying your paint lol. For the typical consumer, a cleaner wax application every so often is good to help remove light defects which a pure wax, or one with lighter cleaning power cannot. It has it's place and time, but on such a new car it shoiuldn't be needed every
time you wax from now on unless needed. Think of it like a scratch remover, you wouldn't use the remover all the time, only when you had to remove a scratch, right? Do the same with a cleaner/wax when detailing your basecoat/clearcoat finish.
Note: That is not too say you should use a wax with NO cleaning power each time (a pure wax)
The paint will get some contamination and dirt build-up, so some light cleaning is needed each detail to remove this, and depending on severity stronger cleaners or clay. Another option is a pre-wax paint cleaner (ie Meguiar's deep crystal #1), these contain no (or very little) abrasives, their job is to remove dirt and contamination, but NOT defects.
Most consumer waxes not labeled as a pure wax (ie Meguiar's deep crystal #3) or a cleaner wax will have some very fine abrasives. This is perfect for routine use, as it removes only what it needs to to maintain the finish. Basically, you want just enough
to get the job done
I didn't see any swirl marks despite the fact that I had to rub hard to get the haze off the hood which tells me that there was some kind of buildup. The trunk lid and top weren't easy either, but not as hard as the hood. The sides were a piece of cake (no build-up of any kind)
Can you further describe the build-up you encountered?
Was it like poorly removed wax residue? or.....?