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#1631657 - 12/05/08 10:33 PM 92+ Marauder/Sport floor shift retrofit-by jimh874
dRock96Marquis Offline


Posting Addict

Registered: 02/22/05
Posts: 24394
Loc: Maryland
The following provides notes on transmission shift cable relocation and floor shift version shift interlock solenoid/cable installation on 1992+ Crown Victoria, Grand Marquis and Lincoln Town Car to retrofit a Marauder/Grand Marquis LSE/Sport Appearance Package/LX Sport floor shifter and console in favor of the standard column shift.

For more specific details on the complete floor shift conversion refer to This thread

The following article was authored by jimh874 and was originally posted in This Thread
===============================================

Let me say that I should have just done this swap sooner! banana
Here is the original post started by me about replacing the interlock cable with the floor shift unit: https://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1564161#Post1564161

I feel this install is not very difficult, but it is time consuming and not something that can be done in just a few hours. Don't forget the air vent needs to come out of the floor!

Tools needed:
  • Most importantly you will need a #30 torx bit.
  • 3/8 drive socket set deep well.
  • General electrical supplies/18 gauge butt connectors/electrical tape/heatshrink tubing


Procedure:
  • Start by moving the driver seat all the way back and then unhook the battery!
  • Now go ahead and pull the column trim off the side of the dash and under the steering column. (knee bolster) ]
  • Continue to pull the metal cover off, and ALL of the brackets. You need to drop the column down so it will end up laying on the seat.
    ****(Refer to Shift tube replacement article for more information and pictures of column and related parts removal) -d
  • Get down in the foot well with a flashlight, large flat blade screw driver and small thin flat blade screw driver and locate the end of the shift cable. Pry the cable off the end of the shift arm, then locate the white clip holding the cable in place. slide the small screw driver under the tab ends of the clip and push it up to pop it off the bracket.
  • To get the top column cover off, you need to remove the ignition cylinder. Put the key in and turn to the run position, now go under and look at the underside where it mounts in the column. use something small and push the little ball in and the lock should pop out.
    ****(Refer to Column Shroud Removal Article for more information and pictures) -d
  • Now locate all the wire harness connections and unplug them. there are three on the right side of the steering column near the end of the column. And two on the left side of the column, one of them is the plug for the existing interlock, the other is a large harness that runs up to the underside of the steering column and has a bolt through the center.
    ****(The large harness and connector w/ bolt is for the ignition switch) -d

    (you might not be able to remove this until the column is loose)
  • Remove the 4 bolts holding the column up. Loosen all 4 first, remove rears first then remove the front.



    ****(Refer to Shift tube replacement article for more information and pictures of column and related parts removal) -d
  • Here is a pic of the existing interlock and the plug. The plug fits the floor shift interlock cable.

  • Remove the caps that hold the shift tube inplace, and remove the bracket for the interlock. Save the bracket the interlock is mounted to.

  • This piece needs to come out, the pin is a pain and you need a curved tool to push it out. Get it out far enough you can grip it with a pair of plyers. These pieces can be discarded., grin
  • As you can see here the end of the interlock just sits inplace of the cam you just removed. I reused a bolt from one of the hold downs to secure the main piece to the column, and secured the side down with a short machine screw in the hole the pin was removed from. Now I reused the bracket that had the original interlock mounted to it. I pulled off the existing interlock module off and remounted the bracket and used zip ties to help hold the interlock in place.
  • Now locate the plug for the interlock. I took and cut the protecting cover of the harness back so I could pull the wires back far enough and plug in the interlock. Just make sure the wire is out of the way when it comes time for you to push the column back to bolt it up.
  • You need to clip the wires for the OD that run to the shift arm, clip as close to the arm as possible!
  • If you have a Marauder column cover
    ****(Note same column cover w/o hole is used on MANY Ford models)-d to replace the stock one, put the top piece on. Check the routing of the interlock cable and your interlock wires, if everything looks good go ahead and bolt the steering column back up.

  • With the steering column back where it's supposed to be, we can reroute that shift cable.
  • Pull the shift out in to the engine compartment. Now it needs to be run on the otherside of the steering shaft. I pushed it back along the frame and pulled it back up.




    ****DO NOT leave the shift cable resting against any exhaust components. Route with care. -d
  • Remove these two vacuum lines and take this bracket off. Then you can at the hole you will need to feed the shift cable through.

  • Now get back down in the foot well and look up just above the gas pedal for this hole, pull the grommet out. This is where you need to feed the cable through to the shifter.
  • Now I went cut the grommet off the shift cable from the original location, then just modified the other grommet to accept the cable. You can see it in the pic.
  • When you start feeding the cable, go between the wire harness and the valve cover. you will see a notch in the valve cover and it feeds through perfectly. Don't get to happy feeding it through, you need to slide it along the firewall to get the end of the cable lined up with the hole. Push the end of it in the the hole so you can start feeding it in to the car. You will understand what I'm talking about when you get to this point.

  • Hooking up the shift cable. I used two small hose clamps, one on each side of the shift base. Then used zip ties to hold in the base. You need to mess around with the positioning of the cable case, or you wont be able to go in to low 1.

    ****(Stock Marauder/LSE/LX Sport shifter cable can also be used instead and will not require modification to the cable/base to secure it) -d
  • For the wiring, I just clipped the plug off the end of the console harness. The wire code is correct for hooking the OVER DRIVE back in to the floor shifter. I just ran the harness I clipped from the shift arm down to the harness for the floor shift and used but connectors. The lighting I spliced in to from the HVAC control panel.


Here is my result!



Jim




---------Courtesy jimh874

****Comments and links added for additional info -dRock


Edited by dRock96Marquis (10/30/11 03:28 PM)
_________________________
-Derek
-Panther info & FAQs-



Former owner of a Grand Marquis with a few mods, Grand Marquis "LSE S/C"

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#2398112 - 10/30/11 03:34 PM '92+ MM/Sport floor shift retrofit - by puppy [Re: dRock96Marquis]
dRock96Marquis Offline


Posting Addict

Registered: 02/22/05
Posts: 24394
Loc: Maryland
The following article also describes installation of a 2001+ SAP/LX Sport or 2003-2004 Marauder floor console and shifter into a 1992+ model Crown Victoria, Grand Marquis or Lincoln Town Car originally equipped with column shifter.

This article provides a great deal of pictures of some of the more detailed steps, making it a good compliment to the original article posted above.

*Please note this write-up is spread over multiple posts because of current forum software embedded image limit

The following article was authored by puppy, and was originally posted in This Thread
===============================================

I recently completed the center console/dual bucket seat install on my 01 C/V. Donor parts came from another 01 C/V Sport package. Here is a write up on it, to help others. This has been covered before, but, I found a few things to add that may help others. As stated, my project is an 01 C/V, but, some of this may apply to other years. Also, this writeup is done with the assumption that you got the shifter, with the console, mounting bracket, complete interlock cable, complete shifter cable, front and rear heater ducts,and the console shifter wiring harness. If not, some steps here may not apply to you. But from what I have seen, having all these pieces definitely makes it easier.
Starting project was a standard LX, with dual 8 way power driver and passenger seats, and a column shift. Car had the auto brake release, and the auto locks enabled.
Here is some pictures of the new toys, before they were put in:







Start by removing both your seats, being careful to disconnect the harnessess under them. Also remove the under column trim, metal plate, bracing, and steering column covers. To remove the upper column cover, you need to remove your lock cylinder. This is done by putting the key in, and turning it to run. Then look under the lock cylinder. You will see a little "knob", using a small punch, push this knob up, and gently remove the lock cylinder. You can now finish removing the upper cover. After you remove the cover, you can re-install the lock cylinder and turn the car off. You should now have access to the area under the column. Disconnect the 6 plugs you see. There will be 4 on the passsenger side. One of these will be a small 2 wire connector, with a Red w/yellow wire, and a Brown w/white wire,this is for your O/D, remember this plug. Remove your gear shift indicator at this point. On the drivers side of the column you will see a big main harness that requires a 9/32 socket. Also on the drivers side you will see a small 3 wire plug that goes to your shift interlock solenoid. Disconnect this, but, make note of the plug, you will be using it later. Here is a picture of some of the wiring:



Now, remove the 4 nuts holding the column up, and gently lower and brace the column. At the back of the column is your shift cable, disconnect this. And using a T-30 bit, remove the bracket that holds this cable to the column. You can discard the bracket at this point. Also, using the T-30 bit, remove the 4 bolts, and 2 caps that hold on the shifter/shifter tube. Cut the wiring at the base of the shifter handle. This is your O/D wiring, we will need this later. Remove it, and set it aside.
Here is a picture of the area I am talking about:


Also, remove the 2 bolts that hold the shift interlock solenoid in place. Remove the solenoid from the bracket. We don't need the solenoid, but, we will be re-using the bracket. Here is a picture of the removed solenoid:

You will also need to remove this "cam":


Push the pin out to the passenger side. DO NOT lose the pin, we will be re-using it later. You can discard the "cam".
Also, remove the vacuum switch that releases your park brake, if so equipped. My car is set up that if the park brake is engaged, putting the car in gear releases the brake. here is a picture of the vacuum switch:


Unfortunately, I have not figured out how to make this work with the console shifter...............yet. So, I have disabled it. I can still use the release handle under the dash. This operates via vacuum, when you put the car in gear, it releases the switch, which sends the vacuum to the release can on the pedal, thus releasing the brakes. You can either tap these lines together, or disable it like I did. I will be working on a way to use this on the center console, and when I have figured it out, will post that. To disable it, you have to keep the plunger depressed. I did this by using duct tape, (man I love that stuff!!), to hold the plunger down, then wrapped it with a zip tie. Here is a picture of my workaround:


***A vacuum switch is available for the floor shifter assembly used in LX Sports and Marauders (also used on Continentals) for automatic parking brake release. It can be purchased new from Ford or from a salvage vehicle. Extend existing vac lines to new switch (mounted to shifter base), operation is same as factory. -d[/size]

Now, pull out your ashtray/cupholder. It will be connected to a wiring harness, just move it to the side for now. You need to remove the ashtray mounting bracket, it is held in place with 2 screws, (9/32), here is a picture of one of the screws, the other is on the passenger side of the bracket:


Once the mounting bracket is unbolted, push it forward a bit,to remove it. Disconnect the wiring harness. You can now discard the ashtray/cupholder, but, cut the wiring off of the ASHTRAY/CUPHOLDER portion only. You will need this plug, and about 3" of the wiring later. At this point, you should have your steering column disonnected, with all the wiring unplugged, and your ashtray mount removed. you should have saved the O/D wiring you cut at the base of the old column shifter handle, your old ashtray/cupholder wiring, and a small pin you removed from the "cam" on the top of the steering column.

Got all that? Good, break time.....................


----Courtesy puppy
***CONTINUED BELOW***


Edited by dRock96Marquis (01/05/12 02:11 AM)

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#2398113 - 10/30/11 03:35 PM Re: '92+ MM/Sport floor shift retrofit - by puppy [Re: dRock96Marquis]
dRock96Marquis Offline


Posting Addict

Registered: 02/22/05
Posts: 24394
Loc: Maryland
O.K., break time is over, back to work!

Now, carefully cut a slit in your carpet on top of the transmission hump. This should start at the forward edge, under the ashtray, and extend back about 2'. Under this slit you will see this big plastic air ducting:


The bottom "legs" of this exit out, just under the back of the front seats. You need to remove this. Stick your hand into the "legs" and using a bit of force, jerk it straight up. Do this on both sides. It is held down by plastic screws, and may take a bit of force. After this, go to the lower front drivers side and unhook the tabs that hold the wiring harness to it. now pull it towards the back of the car, and twist the front to the passenger area. This should allow you to remove it in one piece. You may need to lengthen the slit in your carpet, but, this method worked for me. We don't need this anymore. At this point your car should be stripped and ready for the console install. Yahoo!!

If you got the goodies with the wiring harness, you may see this big black plug on the dashboard end of it:




I could not find where this plugged into anything on my car, so I cut the plug off. But, never fear, here is my wiring schematics from the big black plug:

Orange w/black stripe = lighting to shifter indicator.

Red w/yellow stripe = O/D button on shifter handle
Brown w/white stripe = O/D button on shifter handle.
(It does not matter which of these wires is + or -)

Black = Ground (duh!)

Blue w/white stripe = 12 volts.

I pre-wired my harness at this point. Using the plug with 3" of wire you removed from the ashtray earlier, wire this to the black, and blue w/white on the console harness. My colors were the same for both pieces. Lucky me. For the orange w/black illumination wiring, I tapped this off my illumination wiring going to my rear window defroster switch. Now, take the O/D wiring, plug it back into the connector on the column, and run it out below the ashtray, down in the lower left corner, and out to the console area, you may need to lengthen it a bit. Here is what mine looked like:



You will note these are both white wires. There is no + or - to them near as I can tell.
I used quick disconnects on alll the connections. This made it easier for me, as I made the ends, then verified it all worked, and unplugged and set the harness aside for later. Also, if I ever want to remove the console, I don't have a bunch of wires to cut. Just unplug them.

Now, at the slit you cut to remove the air ducting, peel your carpet to the side and set the mounting bracket down on the transmission hump. I forgot to take a picture of mine, but, here is a picture that fellow member KCSO posted:



The front air duct plugs into the same ducting under the dash that the big piece under the carpet did. Once this is connected, I then marked my mounting legs for the bracket on the transmission hump, predrilled 6 holes, and used big A** sheet metal screws to hold the bracket in place. Before I screwed the braket down, I looked under the car into the driveline tunnel to verify there were no wires or lines that could possibly be damaged.

Now, take your shifter, and CAREFULLY remove the interlock cable, and shift cable from the shifter. Trust me, it is easier to remove them from the shifter, and then feed them through various places, and re-attach them later. Now, SET, don't attach, just set, the shifter handle down on the 2 front sets of bolts. Your new shifter interlock mounts in place of the cam you removed from the top of the steering column earlier. Set it in place, and secure it with one of the T-30 bolts you removed earlier, and the pin you removed earlier, (you did not lose the pin did you?). Now reattach the old shifter interlock solenoid bracket, using 2 more T-30 screws. Then you can use zip ties to further secure the new interlock solenoid to the bracket. You can now re-attach the old interlock solenoid wiring to the new interlock solenoid. I had to lengthen my haness about 4" to make it reach. Now you can re-attach all the rest of the plugs, and carefully, re-install your column. Watch for wiring!
We will come back to the rest of the interlock cable in a bit.

The old shift cable exits out the firewall above the parking brake vacuum release can. Just carefully shove it through the firewall. Go under the hood, find where the old cable exits out, and carefully push you new cable through this hole. I recommend doing it this way as there is a firewall plug that is easier to install this way. Here is a picture of the plug:



Route the new cable along the path of the old cable, using the same connecting points, and attach it to the transmission.
Go back under the dash, and route it above the park brake vacuum release can, above the steering column, drop it down, and push it out under the ashtray area. Basically it should come out on the lower left side of the old ashtray area, below the bracket we will re-install later. Also route your shifter end of the interlock cable through this same area, as well as your O/D wiring.
Re-attach the shift cable, and interlock cable at this point, and plug in your console wiring harness. Lift up the shifter, and set the console on the mounting bracket. Then set the shifter down again on the 2 front sets of bolts.
Here is a picture of the console front and rear mounting holes:




Carefully route and plug in your wiring. Now SET YOUR PARKING BRAKE. Turn the key to run, not start, remember you don't have any seats in yet! Step on the brake, and try to shift. If you have done it right you should be able to shift out of park. Put it back in park. Let go of the brake, and try to shift out of park. Should not be able to without the brake applied. Also verify you have lighting to the gear indicator on the base of the shifter, and power to the outlet in the console. If all of this is working, then you can now bolt down the console. Remember to route your console wiring out of site. You may also need to trim some of your carpetting back to clear the console. You can tuck up the edges of the carpet under the console. I used 6 lock nuts, with large fender washers under them to hold the console and shifter down. Now snap down the front plastic piece with the cupholders in them that surround the shifter base. Then snap down the console. It is easier to do it in this order.

Break time..............................
O.K., you are almost done. Time to install the seats. I got lucky in that my replacement seats were both 8 way power. I set them in the car, plugged them in, and bolted them down. Even thought the sport package uses bucket seats, they are the same wiring harness, and same floor bolt pattern as the split bench seat.

Now start the car, verify you have full range of movement on the shifter handle. Drive it and verify you can engage 1 gear. If not, you may have to make some slight adjustments on the linkage. Also, if you have the auto locks enabled, verify it does lock the doors when you put it in gear, with the engine running.
Here are some pictures of the final installation:





----Courtesy puppy


Edited by dRock96Marquis (01/05/12 02:11 AM)
_________________________
-Derek
-Panther info & FAQs-



Former owner of a Grand Marquis with a few mods, Grand Marquis "LSE S/C"

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