Does anyone know what the dimensions are of an engine belt that bypasses the A/C on a 99 CVPI?

If you did manage to get the right size belt. How would you Install it and put tension on it?

Uh... The tensioner.

Removing the compressor can be a bit of work and the bypass just becomes another idler. Pretty pointless to have 3 idlers in-line with a tensioner when you can just look for a grooved tensioner pulley and delete the rest. It's much less work IMHO.

Belt lengths are measured in 1/8ths of an inch if that helps too.

LMAO. Unless you want to try deleting that as well. Which should be interesting to watch to say the least.

I would defintely try napa the local privately owned shop has been very good to me.

If you bypass the AC pulley completely (which is what the original poster wants to do), then the belt will go straight from the crsnk to alt pulley. How is tension placed when the belt is routed this way? Or is there another way to route the belt so it has tension and doesn't go around the AC pulley?

Whoa totally disregard what I said earlier I was looking at a Mustang diagram. I have no idea how you would reroute around the A/C on these cars.

A 3" grooved pulley on the tensioner should be enough, dependent on why you're doing the bypass. It should work temporarily, if, for instance your compressor seized and you need to accumulate money to replace it. As a permanent fix, don't expect miracles.

A link to the first place I found on Search:

http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/product.php?p=63

Routing would be the same, except when the belt comes around the crankshaft, put it on the outside of the new tensioner pulley, then to the alternator. The original idler pulley won't be doing much. Make sure you allow for tension on the belt when measuring!!!

EDIT:
Here's a Gates P/N:

GATES Part # 38008 {Thermoplastic V-Ribbed 6 Grooved (70mm x 17mm x 25mm)} Grooved Pulley

Available at Kragen, at least, and probably NAPA, etc.

Here is a routing we used for another member's 93-99:


It 'worked'


The tensioner's effective range will be almost nothing, so the belt will have to be sized just right.




I like that, or at least it sounds like it should work well (crank->tensioner (outside)->idler (UNDER)->alt)

I'm not sure shadows idea would work because of the motion of the tensioner arm. You would almost have to remove the idler and even then I don't think you could get the tensioner to ride properly it would be so close to bottoming out to function properly.

It would be a good idea if the tensioner sprung down instead of up is what I'm saying

Thats some great info w/ illustration dRock. Now all we need is the correct length and were in buisness.