To be honest, OCI is also depends on you as the "operator". If you idle a lot, for instance, that would reduce your OCI. Fuel dilution isn't exactly a good thing for the oil or the engine.

Personally, I've run Group II HDEO oils for 10,000 km (6,250 mile) OCIs. The minimum I would consider running a Group III synthetic is 15/16,000 km (10,000 miles). OTOH, I'm running Mobil 1 0W-40 for 20,000 km (12,500 miles).

Having said that, it also depends on the oil itself...VI, TBN and maybe HTHS. Motorcraft Synthetic Blend, for instance, has a virgin TBN of 6.5. HDEOs (or dual-rated oils) generally have a TBN of 10 or higher...bear in mind TBN is reduced quite a bit once the oil is put into service. UOA is a good investment.

I'm personally more interested in ACEA certification, rather than the API, when choosing an oil. MB Sheet 229.3/5/5.1 or BMW LL-01/04 certification also a decent benchmark.

Having said that, when helping out friends or relatives with their Panther's oil changes, my choice is Fuchs Titan GT1 5W-30 for 15,000 km. It has no API or ILSAC certification, but is ACEA A3/B4 and C3, MB 229.31, BMW LL-04 approved - and these engines love it. For those willing to spend the extra, it's Mobil 1 0W-40 (which quickly shears down to a 30 weight).

Roy L Fuchs?

I buy the Motorcraft Oil, simply because I can get it for 5 cents more a quart than the store brand.

If you really wanted to know, you could take a sample of the oil and submit it to a chromatography lab. This is probably more hassle and certainly more cost than it's worth.


Pennzoil Platinum has had a Group III basestock since day one. Group V basestocks are not typical in automotive use.


ConocoPhillips designed the oil, and Purolator designed the FL-820s. I say why buy synthetic blend when it's only between 20-35% synthetic, and a Group III to boot?


Mortal Kombat is a very GOOD game; however, I think Donkey Kong is the best video game ever.

AMSOIL EaO11 - higher efficiency, capacity, and flow rate; rated for 25,000 miles or a year (small print: when used in conjunction with AMSOIL synthetic motor oils.)


Yes.


Chew on this: The last commercial jetliner you flew on hadn't had an oil change since coming out of the factory. Just the occasional top-up. [Source: History Channel - Modern Marvels: Lube Job]


As I stated above, the AMSOIL EaO11 is good for 25,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first. Numerous UOAs support that this line of filters effectively removes contaminants during extended drain intervals.

I treat the ball joints and pitman arm every 6 months or so with AMSOIL GHD Heavy-Duty moly grease, and after less than a pump or two there is already grease coming out of the boot. That means the stuff stays put, even after the temperature climbs above 80°F.

And as for fuel dilution being a worry, every time I've done a UOA to comfort a customer who is using AMSOIL with extended drain intervals, the reports have shown the exact same number in the "Fuel Dilution" category -- <1%.

I save plenty of time with extended drain intervals. Inspection takes 10-15 minutes. OTOH if you don't have the discipline to do an occasional inspection, extended drains may not be for you.

Some Platinum viscosities, such as 5W-20 and 5W-40, have some POA in it. Your Platinum is basically Shell Helix Ultra. Mobil 1 also uses some Group V in their products, mixed in with Group III/IV.



Amsoil EA filters are not exactly off the shelf filters, which is what I was referring to. And the catch is, it has to be used with Amsoil oils to last 25,000 miles....which you already pointed out.

German oil company, supplying factory fill lubricants to Mercedes-Benz.

Sorry, I had to throw the "Used Cars" movie reference in there.

I did use Mobil 1 for a long time, then tried Royal Purple when it first came out on the market. I've also used Redline ( very expensive ) and many other synthetics. Every car/truck is going to react different, its just mostly preference. You can take a sample and have it sent in, but unless you disassemble the engine after x amount of miles with one brand, then do it again with another brand, you'll never see what the inside looks like and see the wear patterns. I use Asmoil myself for my 06 CV, simply b/c I feel comfortable with it, not b/c of the " extended interval times ". I still change my oil on a regular basis, plus Amsoil is one of the few right now that carries a fully synthetic 5w20. I use amsoil in all my vehicles, in the engine, trans and diff. Whatever feels comfortable and gives you piece of mind is what you need to go with. Jaguar has been claiming 10k services for quite some time now, they dont use fully synthetic oil, and there are people who wait 10k miles to change the oil. Then there are those who choose to be smart, and keep it changed on even more regular basis. If you're using Mobil 1, or Valvoline, or even Castrol, I seriously dont think you're going to have engine failure b/c of the oil you chose to use, as long as you keep it changed. Point being, pick one that suits your driving habits, keep it changed on a regular basis, and be done.