I believe it is zero. There was a member here a few years ago looking for one. He may have found one on ebay, but for some reason I think the "fix" was pulling the airbag light and disabling the system.

Alex.

Any chance you can scan the air bag diagram? I can't find squat on the box air bag system.

If you are working off the full wiring diagram, pay special attention to tiny little references to connections to other wiring. Your power may be tied into something else as secondary power.
If you remove the airbag control module, does that phantom power go away? (air bag module holds a charge for while to power the system).

Alex.

I grabbed a bunch at a wreckers until I found a good one. I may have some still ( I know I have some sensors, just maybe not the middle one ). I intend to go to the wreckers later this summer, so there is a good chance I could ship one to you.

I'm actually going to be in London in early July...

Pulling the air bag light = the worst noise ever.

You could throw a resister in there, or be lazy like me and put a piece of electrical tape over it.


Or fix it the right way.

Surely one of us in the US can find a decent one in a boneyard. My airbag light isn't on, so presumably all the sensors are still good. I figure if mine are still good, here in the rust belt, other cars ought to have good sensors too.

Unfortunately, I've got no time right now to head to the boneyard (even though I could use a few parts). My son is gearing up to work on his Eagle Scout Project and that is sucking up the majority of my free time. Hopefully later this summer I'll have more free time.

Wow, it would be seriously nice to have someone find me a good used centre sensor, but I wonder how hard it will be to repair. I'll find out.

But now, the wiring fault..........................
Well, finally solved it! What a stupid thing it was.
Almost embarassing, but not.
The fault was assuming. I know, I know, you should never assume.

When the factory wiring was checked out, it was fine. When the new wires were soldered in, it wasn't fine. So it makes sense that I had done something wrong. But I double and triple checked the wiring colour to colour and it was okay.

Have a look at this photo, especially the black tape just above my finger



Now I ASSUMED that the tape was just holding the wires together. After all, what stupid idiot would join a permanently hot wire to an accy feed wire?

Heres a photo of it with the tape removed



That is a professional crimped join/splice. And that is where the power was being transferred to the yellow/black wire. But why would it be there? Remember this is a new stereo with no hacked wiring.

A few mins later and the crimp was off, the wires heat shrink insulated and we are back firing on all cylinders! So to speak.

Just 1 crimp was causing the electric windows to operate without the key, the LCD clock to stay illuminated and the stereo to stay powered up with the key out without manually switching it off. Still can't believe it.

We live and learn!

Andy.

About that electrical box, if you can manage to find a way inside of it you can check for blown capacitors by looking for bulged rounded off tops, they should be flat on top. that's a normal common problem for circuit boards that have had some sort of short. And the reason its wrapped in steel is to avoid radio interference I think.

By the way, great eye on that wire, it would have slipped right past me!

I believe all my sensors are intact, never did find out why my light was on but ditched the bulb and module years ago. so if you wanted mine then i guess i could test and send it over the lake or we could make it much easier by me and you finish every thing on your car except your air bag light. send the car over i could install the sensor and make shure the fix is good over a two year quality check and test and i'll be shure to get your car back to you when the check is over.

But seriously send me a pm with what you used for circuit testing and i'll let you know. More or less just reimbursement for shipping.


Justin.

Wow! Thanks Justin.
Let me get you a test diagram drawn out. Then all you need is a digital multimeter.

I'll arrange for the car to come over to you, or just the shipping for the sensor! Whichever is easiest :-)

Thanks again.
Andy.

Tonight, I intended to start the process of removing the inner rear wheel arches and reduce the outer wheel arch lip in width and start reconstructing it all-including reprofiling the rear lower quarter panels.

BUT, got involved in servicing my dads car Enjoyed it too much though. Took me away from the jobs in hand!

Tell you what though. Went out in it yesterday to the local country park with my youngest son (7) and my good lady Wife. I drove, my Wife sat on the passenger front and my little lad sat inbetween us on the bench seat! Was fantastic. All 3 on one seat, and still plenty of room.

Now what car can you do that in these days? Eh? Those days are gone! But not for us :yay:

Andy.

Hi again Justin.

Here is a connector view of the centre front airbag sensor.



Sorry its slightly blurred!
Anyway, put a digital multimeter set on ohms, between connector 620 and a good shiney bit of the metal case. If it reads less than 1 ohm, chuck it in a box and tell me what I owe you for shipping!

Thanks.
Andy.

I'll check tomorrow, and i'm going to need a real address a bit more specific than UK. I have a shipping est that could be from 80$-170$.

One random address gave me a 4day shipping of 71$ and a 2day shipping of 49$, that would be for around Blackfriars st. Carlisle.


Justin.

Ship it as a international surface parcel with Canada Post (6"x5"x4" 1kg is $15). Shipping with things like fedex will hit Andy with extra charges from the shipper.

If not a lot is going over on the mail run, it'll get to andy within 2 weeks since they fill the space with the lower dollar options. It potentially can get to Andy as fast as express post.

Alex.

Justin is in the US, so he has two options. Drive to Canada to ship it Canada Post, or ship it US Postal Service. But you're right, UPS, Fedex, etc have inflated shipping costs, especially for international orders.

Oops. I was thinking of the Toronto fella who said he had some modules. The US has priority mail international (small packets upto 4 pounds for $13.45. (flat rate box 8-5/8" x 5-3/8" x 1-5/8")

[ http://www.usps.com/prices/priority-mail-international-prices.htm ]

Alex.