The following article describes retrofit of a 1999-2002 Mercury Cougar trunk switch into a 1995+ Crown Victoria or Grand Marquis (but intended for CVPIs)
Crown Victoria Police Interceptors are typically equipped with a center dash trim mounted trunk release only. Many CVPI owners like to replace their trim pieces with the more upscale CVLX/GMQ counter parts, which means the trunk switch will need to be relocated.
By using a 2001+ model LH dash trim with at least one cutout, the extra switch position can be used for an OEM trunk release switch for a factory look. (If you have adjustable pedals, or traction control, you will need a 2 switch cutout version trim piece. If you have both of these options, you will have to install the switch in a new
The following article was authored by Drac
, and was originally posted within This Thread===============================================
[quote=Drac]first off, i know im not the first person to do this mod, but it seems to be a mod that other people may find interesting, and lead to someone else doing it. being there was no formal write up on it, i figured id make one.
the switch came out of a 1999 mercury cougar. and since the wiring is somewhat confusing, this will hopefully clear up any confusion.a special thanks to BBereziuk for helping me figure out the wiring, so a lot of the credit goes to him.The Switch:
physically, the switch housing is the same housing that ford uses for the 2001+ defroster, traction control, and adjustable pedals. therefore placement in an OEM location on a trim panel makes it look OEM- it just snaps in!
the only thing i had to modify for it to fit in the OEM hole from ford (on the lefthand trim piece) was to file off the little nub on the bottom of the switch, as the trim piece doesn't have a cutout for the nub in the location that it is on the trunk switch. so to the dremel i went to remove it! Nub Removed: Wiring:
***depending on what year the car is that you got the switch from, you may have a light tan wire and a light tan/red wire opposed to the blue wire and the blue/red wire. these tan wires are the same as the blue wires on the switch in this guide. wiring rules wont change between the 2 switches.
upon initial inspection, the switch looked pretty strait forward to wire, but i learned it was a little more tricky. the switch will come with a black wire coming out of one location and being rerouted into a new location. this is repersented in my picture my the black wires that are wound together. (you have to cut them, and i already did prior to the picture) you also have a black wire lead coming out of the same location as each wire that gets rerouted in addition. the picture will explain this.
in the photo above, the 2 black wires that are wound together are usually connected when you get the switch off the car. the other 2 black wires that are pointing up and down dont reroute into the button. they are just signial wires.
anyways. cut the wire that reroutes into the switch. now you will have a total of 4 black wires coming out of 2 locations. each location, the black wires coming out of it will be stripped and wound together.
in the picture below, the 2 sets of black wires wound together represents these wires being joined. using butt connectors is probably the best method. for both sets of black wires, wind the ends together, and put them into one end of a butt connector and crimp! the other end of the butt connector that isnt used yet will go to wires on your car.
the top set of black wires are the ground. ground these accordingly. the blue wire and the blue/red wire is the illumination signial. tapping into the orange/black wire from the defroster will give the new trunk button an illumination signal, and is probably the most convenient switch to utilize.
*** make sure you send the right wires to ground and the right wires to power. when saying "the top wires" i mean the set of wires on the upward most section of the switch when the switch is being held horizontal with the car logo on the front right side up.
the black/yellow and the other set of black wires are the power to the switch. at this point take the signal wires from your current trunk switch and run one to the black/yellow, and run the other one to the black wires.
I did not
attempt to see if the switch would work when the black wire that reroutes into the switch was still in tact. the cougar must have some sort of different wiring that required this. once one set of black wires is now used as a ground, and the other set is being used for in-line power, i thought that having a link between power and ground would cause issues. therefore i cut the black wire that rerouted back into the switch. on the set of black wires that is for in-line power, you can probably get away with using just one of the 2 black wires. i haven't tested this theory yet however.
Ultimate install yields a very nice finish. looks factory.