Well I haven't shared your experience, using syn blends my '07 uses zero oil in 5K changes... It's now on a 1 yr, prob 8/9K mi regiment with full synthetic, we'll have to see how it does with this oil...

The '98 uses a quart in 5K, no difference in syn blend vs full synthetic... At 9K miles on this change, it's close to needing a second quart... Currently has a 60/40 mix of M1 5W-30 & 0W-40, well at least before I added a quart of 5W-30 at 5Kmi... I'll change it at 10K, have oil waiting...

Don't use motorcycle oil in your car.Many still have the metals(like zinc)in them to lubricate the transmission gears.Not good for your catalytic converters.

DDK

At the risk of thread-jacking, would motorcycle oil be a good substitute in older cars with flat-tappet camshafts that need zinc?

I've heard of MC oils being used but zinc controversy is basically a non-issue, while it has been reduced it has not been eliminated... Mostly all the hoop-la is a solution looking for a problem...

Here's a list of M1 products and the amount of zinc contained...

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf

The xW-40 & up oils are not subject to the zinc reduction, it's basically limited to xW-20 & 30 oils... It's true that if you have a wild cam with high spring pressures, the 20 or 30 oils may not have enough zinc for protection but we aren't talking every day drivers here...

It would be an excellent oil to use in a flat tappet engine that does not have a cat converter.

No to the 20w-50.

If you are going to nurse this along with different motor oil I'd agree with 10w-30 synthetic as a good choice, and 10w-40 synthetic as viscous as I would go. Stay away from motor oils that have been recalled....Pennzoil comes to mind. Good stuff would be Lubri-moly (german cars run this stuff), Lubrication engineers (used by mining vehicles), Mobile 1, Valvoline, Royal purple, and there are probably a few others worth mentioning but I can't think of them right now. When shopping for quality oil look for the American Petroleum Institute doughnut and starburst.


If you are burning 2 quarts of oil every so often (1) you may have a problem with the Positive crankcase ventilation system. ( the valve on your valve cover is clogged forcing oil and other blow-by products into the intake and burning it. (2) You have a leak you haven't found yet. (3, worst case) Your rings or valve guides are so worn they are leaking oil and you are burning it, in which case you either need cylinder heads or a new engine.

Hope this helps.

New one on me, details???


The starburst is mostly to designate CAFE oils, if you are looking for max protection there are better choices...

Thank you so much for the advice.
I decided to go with Mobil 1 high mileage 10w-40 synthetic.
Puzzling thing about the PCV in this car.If you look for cross reference on the valve,it calls for a valve that has the main body with 2 additional nipples on the side.When I got the car last year,the valve on it,has no addtional inlets on the side.There is no evidence of any extra hoses ever being in there.

My 99CV would burn oil on the highway, but not much around town. The high mileage oil might help if you have worn valve seals, but the 10w, instead of 5w, may decrease oil flow at start-up.

The PCV valves with nipples are cheap universal fitments. The Motorcraft OEM PCV valve is a higher quality part, no nipples, and not expensive, even if you buy it from the dealer.

My '93 has two nipples on the PCV valve, and that's factory!

It is part of the EVAP system on that MY lol.

The OP, Freddy, has a 99CV. The 99CV PCV valve does not have nipples.

News to me, too.

Two more unsolicited cents worth:
Zinc/ZDDP - The only parts usually affected by running oil with no/reduced zinc are the cam lobes and lifters on older flat tappet engines. The zinc helped with the additional friction from the iron lifter scrubbing across the iron cam lobe. With rollerized valvetrains these days, the zinc isn't really needed. I did toast a brand new flat tappet cam and lifter set on my 85 CV after only 3000 miles, and the only explanation was the low zinc oil that I put in it. After replacing it, I ran full synthetic with no problems.
Oil/zinc and cats - If you're burning enough oil, it doesn't matter what kind it is, zinc or not, synthetic or not. The guts just do not like burnt oil (or anti-freeze, or leaded fuel) going through them. Same goes for the O2 sensors. Every engine with piston rings is going to burn trace amounts of oil in the best of tune, that's expected and doesn't hurt anything. But get enough in the chambers and the stuff will mess with everything...burned valve seats/faces, clogged converters, fouled plugs and O2 sensors etc. Bottom line is, if it runs ok, it runs ok. But if you can see smoke out the back, it's probably gonna cause problems soon enough.
4 stroke cycle oils - depends on whether the bike has an integrated trans with wet clutch discs or not. A lot of bikes share the crankcase oil with the transmission gears, and those oils have specific additives to help the friction discs in the clutch work like they're supposed to. Some people use automotive oils in bikes with no problem, others swear they will mess everything up. In a car engine, it probably wouldn't hurt, but most likely won't have the same benefits az zinc has for the cam/lifter issue. If you're desperate for some emergency oil and only have bike oil available it'll do in a pinch.

Again I thank you all,for posting such helpful stuff.
You guys are the best,really !!!

I am not very worried about oil flow at lower temps,since I am living in a semi tropical climate now.If I was still in NJ,then I would think twice.