Took the car in today. The air compressor is running, but not putting out any air. They want to replace the compressor first and check for leaks. They want $500 for the compressor, $100 labor. This is NOT a dealership;I told them "No".

I am thinking of replacing the compressor myself, and next week take it to a garage where I can replace the rest of the system, air springs, and solenoids myself. It will take until then to get the parts from Arnott or other supplier.

Is it OK to do it this way if a new compressor gets the rear end back up and inflated so I can drive the car? Do I necessarily have a leak somewhere? I can get the compressor for $239 at Autozone (Westar) and install myself at my Apt.

My OASIS report shows that the owner complained about the rear-end dropping at times, but the dealership could not verify the complaint. Previous owner did tow with the car.

Thinking of going with Arnott air springs and solenoids, if need be.


Thanks,
Scott

$500 for the compressor and they want to start there? UMMMMMM..... RUN!!!! Run Far!!!!!

The think that concerns me is that is works without any issues for 3 weeks, then has issues. If it were a leak, then it would not work at all.

I am thinking the vent solenoids myself, they are cheap, and also have new O-rings. I doubt it is the compressor vent, but could be wrong.

And as mentioned before, you can get new bags, solenoids and a compressor for around $350 and then have your mechanic put them in, or do it yourself.

There are actually 2 valves in the RAS. One is the solenoid at the air spring itself, the other is on the compressor. When the system is told to vent, it has to open both the air spring solenoid and the vent solenoid on the compressor. This produces that "sighing ghost" sound people sometimes hear after the car is shut off. If the solenoid on the compressor is bad, it's possible it's stuck in the vent mode, so no air comes out the feed to the back of the car when the compressor is running.

I put a new compressor in. The RAS lifted right up where it should be within 5 seconds, and the compressor went off.

So, I think it was the compressor. Visual check of the air springs does not show any cracks. So, what do you think, am I good to go, done with this for now at least?

The shop (Monro)I took it to that wanted $500 parts, $100 labor, broke off my air box mount in the front. The guy was using air/power tools to remove the air box The also left my air intake hose clamp loose.

The new compressor did not have the connector for the rubber hose that was on the old one that went to this little black box mounted on the front frame (snorkel I think). Is this OK?

Thanks for all your help, and I hope this thread helps others as well.

Scott

I'm still on my 16-year old and 92k mile RAS with absolutely no issues, so it's very likely it was only the compressor giving you the problem. Just keep an eye on it, and if your rear end stays up, you have your answer.

I hope you're good to go. It's possible that a leak was causing your air compressor to work overtime and then it finally failed. However not likely since your problem was intermittent. If you had a leaky airbag the problem would still exist.

When my RAS went out it was one of the airbags so I just went with P71 coils so that I wouldn't have to worry about it anymore. I didn't bother changing the shocks and I actually liked the way it felt with coil springs.

It feels more agile and seems to have a little more 'jump' off the line with the coils.

That "snorkel" is actually a muffler for the vent. It's not necessary.

Hopefully that is all that it was. It sounds that way since it went right up and no warning lights.

If something goes again, it will most likey be the bags.

After 4 repairs on mine, I switched over to coils and will not look back, I do agree with BigROC 209, I replaced mine with new coils and shocks and it seems to hook up better then it ever did off the line.

It my GM was still my daily driver, I would have repaired the RAS, but for $100 for new coils and rear shocks..... A few hours in my driveway was well worth the peace of mind never to worry about the RAS again.

Glad you car is fixed.

Couple of questions that have come to mind:

1)On the new compressors/driers do they delete the outlet for venting? Mine is sealed up with with like a metal plug that does not seem to be made to come off.

2) Is there supposed to be a cover over the compressor/dryer? My car does not have one unless the Monro mechanic that looked at it failed to put it back on. I can't find a part number for it or illustration.

Thanks again,
Scott

I called the Mfg of the compressor (Westar) and they state their vent and suppressor does not use the air hose like the OEM, but rather goes out this port with a metal type cap.

Still can't figure out if there is supposed to be a cover.

I am thinking of just going ahead and replacing the air springs. If I do so, do I need to replace the dryer? I do not totally understand how the dryer works or how moisture gets into to system and how it is removed.

Scott

The dryer is part of the compressor, if you just bought a new compressor it should have a new drier. If not then it can't hurt to buy a new drier, they are not too expensive. The drier has a desiccant inside that removes moisture from the air before it gets into the system:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Desiccant

If the air springs are not leaking then there is no need to replace them. If they are old or show signs of cracks or are leaking then I would say go ahead and replace them. Tell tail signs of a leaking spring is the car drops to the ground after sitting all night or while driving the compressor run though no weight has been added. One thing to check, though, is the height sensor. They tend to rust and eventually come off causing the car to think the height is low and calls for the compressor to inflate the springs, thus you get this really high rearend. I would put a few squirts of WD-40 on the two attaching points. The height sensor is on the Watts linkage forward of the fuel tank.

Warm air can hold more moisture than cool air. When you compress air you add heat, and it will hold even more. The RAS compressor takes in outside air, compresses it, and pumps it to the air springs through the dryer, which is filled with dessicant which absorbs moisture. Moisture in the system can cause corrosion and will turn to ice in the winter, blocking the air lines.

Just replacing my air system in the 2006. Scored a complete kit from Strutmasters for $367.00. Bags, solenoids, O rings,, dryer and compressor.

I wasted that much on a compressor at 70k miles.

Lasted only 40k miles.

The bags dry rot over time. Also, no one ever replaces their rear shocks on these cars, which really should be done at 50-60k. This also leads to early failures.

I switched up my 2000 to regular coils, but for that kind of price I am keeping the air ride.

While I am at it we are doing the steering shafts and endlink bushings.

I did the struts last December. So the car should be good for another 100k!

A lot of very good info. I purchased my CV 98 LX almost 2 Yrs ago and air suspension had been converted to coils and new monroe shocks. I think Dealer did it as one time previous owner had all work done there. I have been very happy with ride and road control on mine. Also I dont have to worry about maintaining my air system.

But in end its a personal choice as someone stated.