Get out the cut off wheel.

^^^This

Ezbok, I'm going with a cable clutch setup.

Spoke with Liberty's gears on thursday, they should be getting around to my transmission either next week or the week after. Pretty massive backlog, to say the least.

Also, there were some fairly worn suspension bits on the BMW, along with a bad tie rod that needs to be replaced badly, so I'm in the process of replacing a bunch of bushings in the rear suspension and basically replacing all of the front suspension components. I figured it made sense to have my daily driver in good shape before tearing the merc apart. With a bit of luck the suspension work should be done this week.

Update: Pedals are mostly installed. Just need to wire up the brake light switch and remove some stuff that's hanging by the pcm blocking the clutch pedal. Pics soon.

Also, finally pulled both rear wheels and adjusted the ebrake so that it actually engages

Aaaand spoke to liberty last week. They're supposedly getting it torn down this week. Definitely taking their time on getting around to it.

That seems to be a trend around here, once a project is started and a part is handed off to "professionals" for some work, it gets tucked away in a corner and they will get to it "next week".

This ^^^^^^^^^^^

dont give up man you are almost there.

So, a few things (pictures will follow soonish).

I actually managed to get the factory brake pedal switch to install with these pedals, albiet rotated somewhat differently than stock. I know this wasn't supposed to be possible on older versions of pier's pedals, not sure if I got lucky or a design change there.

There are a few things I noticed though. One end of the clutch quadrant that doesn't have any spacers/etc on it seems to have a bit of side to side play in it, is this normal or am I missing a piece that should go in there?

Also, as far as the hole for the firewall adjuster goes, I'm a bit nervous. From what I've read it seems that the way to go about doing it is take a pen/whatever and rest it on the top/part of the quadrant where the cable hooks and see where it hits the firewall, and start the hole there, correct?

From that point, drill the hole out larger and then use a dremel to expand it out to the size of the firewall adjuster, and then make a plate/spacer/thingy to hold it at the proper angle relative to the quadrant. Somewhere in here I'll probably want to take the brake booster out of the way for clearance.

Am I missing anything/any feedback on this step would be appreciated.

I cant remember what version you have but i'm really curious to see that



The play side to side will give you some room for adjustment with the cable.Once you are perfectly set and the right tension is on the cable it wount moove but you can always use washers if you really want to be exactly st the way you want but I never did.
Also, as far as the hole for the firewall adjuster goes, I'm a bit nervous. From what I've read it seems that the way to go about doing it is take a pen/whatever and rest it on the top/part of the quadrant where the cable hooks and see where it hits the firewall, and start the hole there, correct?



you pretty much got it



fell free to pm me if yuo need more info.

I'll work on getting a shot of the brake pedal switch, but that seems to be working.

The good news: I finally heard back from liberty, got a quote and whatnot, trans already torn apart, it should be rebuilt early next week and ready to go.

The bad news: Broken studs on front wheel spacers again, no damage to the rim though. This is the second time I've had it happen, on the same wheel actually, over the last two years. I think, however, I've got a decent long-term solution in the works.


Lastly but certainly not least, Rizzo was kind enough to spend a bit of his day off sweating/burning his hands under my car to remove this:


The dreaded 3rd starter bolt is now removed, and based on the horror stories I've heard about getting it out, I'm quite glad for the help. It should make pulling the started way easier when I go to drop the trans. Also, thanks to rizzo, I found out some of my wheel studs were f-ed up, way better way of finding that out than having a wheel come off.

that infamous third bolt

gald you are a few step closer

Update time.

Wednesday I spent getting the car moved to it's temporary new home where I'm working on it.




Prior to that on wednesday, I installed these, although the rears need to be tucked in a bit more:


Also on wednesday, I picked up the transmission from liberty:




I'm thinking rather than use a silver/aluminum colored paint, i'll probably just hit it up with a high temp clearcoat. I'm glad I asked them to glassbead the case, it looks awesome.

The trans already had a 26 spline input shaft. In addition to that liberty did the following: replaced 2nd gear, which had some chipped teeth, brand new 1-2 and 3-4 synchro assemblies, new blocker rings for all synchros, new bearings, bronze shift fork pads, billet shift keys, and they shot peened and polished some of the internals for smoother shifting. Can't wait to see how it drives.

Today, I finished moving my tools and the rest of the parts I have out to the garage I'm working out of, got my to-do list taped up on the wall, and drained the trans fluid. The fluid was surprisingly clean given the trans has ~180k on it, and the fluid has 45k or so. Also drained out the torque converter and started removing the wiper cowl.


More coming tomorrow.

nice

So Shiny!

What kind of wheels are those? They look awesome!

Thanks guys. The wheels are Esm-002r's. Similar design to our hpp rims.

Question for people with sw catbacks... Is it normal to need to disconnect the exhaust to remove the driveshaft?

I had a Hurst short shifter on my 6 speed in my '94 Trans Am. I really liked it. Also had a Stage III clutch. Came with both of these though, so I really couldn't compare them to stock. But I realy did like the feel fo that set up.