I have a beautiful '09 Crown Vic Interceptor and in the past few months, I have had to plug a TON of money into repairs. I have had the car for about 2 years now and here is what I have done:

NOTE: I am not a "car guy". I am an IT nerd that has had a crash course on learning more auto stuff in the last few months than I have in my 35 years of existence.

Some repairs were just "might as well do this while I'm here" repairs.
* Transmission
* Air Intake Manifold
* 2 Ignition Coils
* 2 Injectors
* Injector O Rings
* GVR line? I forget what its call at the moment.
* Alternator (210A)
* New Ground and Power Cables
* Thermostat
...I think that's everything. With that said here are a couple issues I am having yet.
I still have a cylinder that isn't firing correctly. This cylinder has a new coil and injector.
What else could be causing this?
Since this cylinder has new coil and injector, im assuming that moving that hardware to a different cylinder (to troubleshoot) wont really determine anything for me in figuring out whats wrong?

One of the issues that is seasonal (I live in Minnesota) is that when it gets cold during the winter...like now...my car will "click" when I turn the key, but wont start. This has happened just last night. I brought the battery inside to warm up, then a couple hours later brought it out, hooked it up, had to jump it for just a bit and she started.

Im going to pick up a blanket style battery heater tonight and see if that helps, but is there anything else that could be the cause of this? My car sits in the garage and my wifes Explorer, which has sat outside the last two days, started without a problem.

Any help on these issues would be VERY much appreciated. I am at my wits end trying to figure it out and hope I might be able to pick the brains of some gurus.

Thank you very much.

As far as the miss have you checked the plug. Sometimes the alternator going out has killed my battery on different vehicles I've owned especially if it's old. Your new alternator is charging and hooked up properly? Advance will test battery and alternator for free. Moving coil to another cylinder would tell you if it's problem if miss moves along with it. Good luck!

I totally forgot about that. All the plugs are new too. I didn't gap them though, should I have? Well I know I should have. It was stupid that I didnt do it. Is it that critical? I had taken the upper part of the engine apart (everything down to the fuel rails) so many times and once I got the plugs in, everything back together and realized I didn't gap them...I was not doing it all over again...lol Alternator is hooked up and working properly. I haven't had any issues with it since installing it.

Thank you for the help

Its critical for performance and mileage to Gap. If new coil and injector on missing cylinder then definitely need to check or change plug, could be bad or fouled.

How did you determine which cylinder is misfiring, is it throwing a code or you just pulled wire on it.

The other issue sounds like battery is dead. It gets so cold up there you have to have a good one. I would get it checked. Hope this helps and good luck.

I have gotten codes before and the guy that installed my transmission took the end of a ratchet extension and touched the injector and listened to the other end. He could tell it was sticking a little and so I replaced it. But if I pull the wires off the injector (cylinder 5) the engine doesn't idle down like it should.

IT guy, get yourself a code reader. It will pay for itself.

The slow/no starting thing sounds like a weak/failing battery. Likely has a dead cell, it will hold a solid 12v, but still not have enough cranking power to start, particularly in the cold. Which is the typical mode of failure in the northern states where you get both temperature extremes in a year. You can realistically only expect a battery to last 3-5 years, anything over that is just bonus.

After stopping into Valvoine the other day, the guy there had mentioned getting a code reader to and theirs is like a $40 model, but that one thats slightly better is $80 and that I should consider getting one of them. When I'll be able to get it I don't know, but I am wanting one bad. Any recommended models for that price?

I have ALWAYS wanted an Interstate battery. I know people swear by them things, but does spending that kind of money get you more longevity? I know they perform better, just not sure if they would last longer.

UPDATE:I did purchase my battery heater and man does that thing get WARM. Maybe this will help out a little with the days that the battery gets a bit cold

There are really only a few battery manufactures in the US. The most common being Johnson Controls, who manufactures pretty much all common brands such as Interstate, DiHard, Duralast, Napa, Motorcraft, MoPar, Kirkland Signature, and most other brands you'll come across. There is exactly zero reason to buy a car battery based on brand, they are, for the most part, all the same. You should instead buy based on price and warranty. Buy the least expensive battery with the best warranty. If you have a Costco membership, their Kirkland Signature batteries are hard to beat.

I'm partial to Deka batteries, made by East Penn.
My father ran a parts store for 30 years and very very rarely had to warranty one.

You put an intake on I would check for vacuum leaks especially around the #5 area. Batteries are not all equal. I have had a lot of trouble with Wally world batteries leaking around the posts. I am currently buying motorcraft from Ford for less then Wally world.

Hello fellow IT guy - maybe an option for the tech-savvy is to invest into the Torque Pro app on Android and one cheap bluetooth dongle. The pair should not run you more than $30. iPhone is a different story, though. For most of the apps you need a WiFi dingle that cost much more.

I had this setup in my Cadillac to see the car falling apart in real time while driving.

This has been my experience too. I have heard many people say that Wally World batteries are junk. I personally hate Wally World and don't buy anything there unless I absolutely have too. But I do get "cheap" batteries. I figure if I drop the money on an Interstate, which I have heard nothing but good things about, and have a heater as backup, I think id be set up.

I mean that's going to be a quality battery, ample cold cranking amps, and when I get a new car I can take it with me and put the crappy battery back for someone else to deal with.

now you're talking my style. I will have to look into this. Thanks for sharing that with me. I feel like I may have heard of an app that does that but perhaps it's worth doing some serious looking now.

UPDATE: Yup, I'll be out $30. I just did some looking and already found the OBD2 adapter I'll get. Think Ill be doing this after the holidays, or I can put it on my Christmas list. Thanks again