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#2950385 - 12/06/15 12:42 AM My Coolant Flush Procedure. Correct?
09MGMPW Offline
Rookie

Registered: 10/31/15
Posts: 91
Loc: US
I am planning to flush the system tomorrow morning and wanted to double-check with the pros here if I got the procedure right. The numbers with star next to them need some clarification. Thanks in advance:

1. Open overflow cap, then open petcock underneath to drain coolant.
2. Open lower rad hose underneath to let the rest coolant out. Then close petcock & lower rad hose.
3. Open thermostat housing & take out thermostat.
4. Fill thermostat opening with 1 gallon distilled water. Then fill overflow tank with 1 gallon distilled water. Close back thermostat housing without the thermostat in, and overflow tank cap.
4. Start car up and put AC to high and hot air.
** 5. Idle for 10 minutes then turn car off. Let it cool down then drain the water from the petcock & lower rad hose???
6. Repeat the process(opening thermostat housing & putting 1 gal water and opening overflow and putting 1 gal water) until you see clear water.
** 7. After the last flush and since water is out of the radiator and overflow tank (but half of the water is still inside the block) put 1 gallon undiluted coolant inside the thermostat and then 1 gallon undiluted coolant inside the overflow tank. And then add the thermostat back inside and idle the car again to operating temp?

Question: When do I burp the system? After the last flush when the undiluted coolant is put in there? So I just leave the overflow cap open and let it idle to the pressure can come out of there?
_________________________

2002 Crown Vic P71 - SOLD
2009 MGM - Pony Wheels, Chin Spoiler, Painted Grill, LED Headlights, Super 10s, 3" polished tips. - SOLD
2001 Mercedes-Benz S600 V12 - Straight Piped, Custom F1 Headers in the works...
2010 Crown Vic P7B - Push bar, Mustang Wheels. More mods on the way...

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#2950633 - 12/06/15 12:33 PM Re: My Coolant Flush Procedure. Correct? [Re: 09MGMPW]
BigMerc96 Offline

I know nothing
Posting Addict

Registered: 06/05/10
Posts: 19868
Loc: I can see Detroit from here!
Burp it after you refill it for the last time. Just let it idle up to temperature without the cap in place, you'll see the coolant level in the reservoir rise a bit (it may even overflow slightly), then bubbles, then it'll settle and start dropping the reservoir level again. Then top it off and reinstall the cap and go for a drive. You'll have 98% of the air out by this point, but check it after a couple drive cycles as it'll burp out whats left and the coolant level may drop a bit. After that, it'll be good to go.
_________________________
-Steve

2006 Audi A6 ~132k miles, stock.
1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS HPP ~100k miles, slowly acquiring modifications.
1997 Town Car Cartier ~145k miles, Ported Plenum, Gutted Airbox, Contour E-fan Retrofit, Dual exhaust with Magnaflows, cats deleted, MSD Ignition, KYB Gas-A-Justs, P71 front bar, air ride reinstated, Projector retrofit, Caddy 4-note horn retrofit, Wood rim steering wheel retrofit, holistic weight reduction as the parts fall off..
1996 Mercury Grand Marquis GS 117,485mi. R.I.P. 7/14/12 frown

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#2950769 - 12/06/15 01:04 PM Re: My Coolant Flush Procedure. Correct? [Re: 09MGMPW]
stalag Offline
Over the Hill

Registered: 03/29/09
Posts: 3984
Loc: Columbus, OH
It will help exchange fresh coolant into the system but it will not by a long margin remove all the old coolant. Your cooling system is 3.8 gallons. According to Ford's own procedures that I checked with my service manager yesterday on, the coolant flush requires 5 times the volume of coolant to fully flush the cooling system. Sorry, but check the information in my signature link. That is actually correct and Ford now follows that procedure.
_________________________
Stalag;___________Just for Rizzo I am posting this in my sig. Coolants
2001 Lincoln Town Car Cartier L, 1997 Mercury Grand Marquis (extinct)
On my LTC the following mods/upgrades were added. Heinous motorsport control arms, Command Automotive SD-1 rotors (these rotors can no longer be obtained), Calipers by Goldlinebrakes.com in silver with Hawk HPS pads (now running Ford OEM), MSD COP's. MZT is also applied with programming from BOC. j-mod is now done. Final rebuild of transmission done by Gearstar.

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#2950865 - 12/06/15 03:03 PM Re: My Coolant Flush Procedure. Correct? [Re: 09MGMPW]
IPreferDIY Offline
Over the Hill

Registered: 05/12/15
Posts: 1082
Loc: Canada
Originally Posted By 02CrownVicVW
... 4. Start car up and put AC to high and hot air. ...

Wouldn't that only be necessary for cars with some kind of valve controlling coolant flow to the heater core? I'm not aware of panthers having one.

FWIW, I drain from the rad drain (I get two gallons easy with the ass end up), put something on the upper hose to drain into buckets, cover the inlet on the rad, put distilled water in the reservoir (but leave room for expansion), warm the car up until the thermostat cycles, keep putting distilled water in as the old stuff comes out, get it clear enough to be happy about, shut off the car and maybe leave it to cool down, drain another two gallons out, connect everything back up, put two gallons of concentrated anti-freeze in the reservoir, and top up with distilled water as required (including after driving). It's not as thorough as Stalag's method, but I'm cheap and lazy. smile

Personally, I've never done anything special to get the air out. The thermostat has a bleed hole that gets aligned a certain way, and that's always been good enough for me.
_________________________
2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 180,000 km as of May 2015
mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

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#2951985 - 12/07/15 11:34 AM Re: My Coolant Flush Procedure. Correct? [Re: 09MGMPW]
Spanker Offline
Member

Registered: 06/10/02
Posts: 306
Loc: Boston
**#5: If your thermostat is removed, no need to idle for 10 minutes, try 2 minutes. Skip the distilled water, thats for batteries. Garden hose water is fine. Fill and flush 2 or 3 times until it drains clear. Flush is complete.

When cars get old, I put as much anti-freeze in as possible, then run with a loose radiator cap. With zero pressure it won't boil over with a high concentrate of antifreeze, and the zero pressure saves the heater core and radiator from blowing. The notion of poor heat transfer is nonsense. 25% water and 75% antifreeze is probably your best target for heat and freeze protection.

No burping is required. Give it a good run, get it hot, and check the coolant tank for proper level.

Don't go overboard with coolant. This stuff is good for 5 years minimum... unless you're looking for something to play with.


Edited by Spanker (12/07/15 12:21 PM)
_________________________
2004 TC
Prior:
2000 CVLX HPP - Gone... T-boned by an illegal
'92 CVLX HPP
'87 CV LTD
'84 TC

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#2952113 - 12/07/15 12:48 PM Re: My Coolant Flush Procedure. Correct? [Re: 09MGMPW]
cruz07 Offline
Over the Hill

Registered: 01/01/13
Posts: 2067
Loc: Dallas County, TX
Has anyone ever used one of the Prestone Radiator flush kits? I saw them all the time when I managed AZ and Oreilly's but never bought one to try it out. A few shops and customers aid they worked good but have never seen the kit in person be used.
_________________________

2005 P71 146,XXX SOLD 03-10-2020
2018 Chevrolet Traverse 33,XXX

X-Panthers
1997 P71 161K
1998 P71 113K

Originally Posted By Moby_Vic
Because CVN is the land of $600 cars.

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#2952297 - 12/07/15 01:46 PM Re: My Coolant Flush Procedure. Correct? [Re: IPreferDIY]
GrandMarq9807 Offline
Over the Hill

Registered: 05/10/10
Posts: 4420
Loc: Virginia
Originally Posted By IPreferDIY
Originally Posted By 02CrownVicVW
... 4. Start car up and put AC to high and hot air. ...

Wouldn't that only be necessary for cars with some kind of valve controlling coolant flow to the heater core? I'm not aware of panthers having one.

Correct...

If the system isn't showing signs of rust or corrosion, all I've ever done is drain and refill... At most add distilled water drain again then refill... Disconnecting highest heater hose from either intake or core will allow air to vent from system...
_________________________
1998 Grand Marquis LS. 96K mi. .. Stock
2007 Grand Marquis GS. 90K mi. .. Stock
1996 F-150 XLT 196K mi Beater, Stock

----------My Toys---------(links are up)
1969 Fairlane Cobra 428CJ 4-Speed
1972 Comet GT Restomod 306, C4
1988 Turbo Coupe 331 AOD & 3.73 .. Pressurized ½ Motor is History

*****************NEW TOY!!!*********************
1969 Base Fairlane 302, C4, 45K mi(really!)

Now with P/S & PDB
Gonna wake it up with a Blue Print headed 347




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#2952393 - 12/07/15 03:24 PM Re: My Coolant Flush Procedure. Correct? [Re: Spanker]
Chaplian Offline
Insert witty title here
Poobah

Registered: 08/26/12
Posts: 5459
Loc: Chicago, IL
Originally Posted By Spanker
**#5: If your thermostat is removed, no need to idle for 10 minutes, try 2 minutes. Skip the distilled water, thats for batteries. Garden hose water is fine. Fill and flush 2 or 3 times until it drains clear. Flush is complete.

When cars get old, I put as much anti-freeze in as possible, then run with a loose radiator cap. With zero pressure it won't boil over with a high concentrate of antifreeze, and the zero pressure saves the heater core and radiator from blowing. The notion of poor heat transfer is nonsense. 25% water and 75% antifreeze is probably your best target for heat and freeze protection.

No burping is required. Give it a good run, get it hot, and check the coolant tank for proper level.

Don't go overboard with coolant. This stuff is good for 5 years minimum... unless you're looking for something to play with.


Once again, tap water/garden hose water is not okay for use in cooling systems.
_________________________

2003 Crown Vic HPP- 226,xxx miles. Projector Retrofit. 3.27s. Dual exhaust. 11.25" torque converter. Arnott Limo Duty HPP-rate rear air springs. (Stolen by the old man)
1995 Impala SS- 28,293 miles. The Lovely Lady
2003 BMW 325i Sedan- 138,xxx miles. Eibach Springs, Bilstein shocks, polyurethane bushings, Projector Retrofitted lights, 330i brakes, 330i rear-end, 235/45/r17 Sport Comp 2s. Autocross machine.
2003 BMW 325i Wagon- 118,xxx miles. Eibach Springs, Koni Yellow shocks, M3 differential (LSD), M3 rear suspension/brakes, 330i front brakes, M3 6 Speed manual, Alcantara headliner.
2017 Mazda3 GT Hatchback- 57,xxxx miles. 2.5L, fully loaded. The Daily Grind.

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#2952417 - 12/07/15 03:37 PM Re: My Coolant Flush Procedure. Correct? [Re: Chaplian]
Spanker Offline
Member

Registered: 06/10/02
Posts: 306
Loc: Boston
Tap water is fine. I've been using tap water since before your mother was born, without any trouble. Look at it this way, many marine engines are cooled by the dirty salt water they operate in, and most easily go 10-15 years without a problem, and they are cooled with hot salt water.

If you won't use it in your car, I certainly wouldn't be drinking it or bathing in it.

Further, if you go to the Ford parts site, the Motorcraft Pre-Diluted Coolant indicates it is a "50/50 mixture of coolant and treated (purified) water..." and then "Recommended by Ford Motor Company; meets warranty requirements."

"Purified" means run through a filter to get the sand/rust out of it. It is NOT mixed with distilled or deionized or any other nonsense, as it would say so if it was. Your wasting your time and money with distilled water.
www.fordparts.com/Products/Chemicals-EngineProducts-Coolants.aspx

It all depends on your water quality, but most municipal systems have reasonably decent water. Well-water is a different story.


Edited by Spanker (12/07/15 04:14 PM)
_________________________
2004 TC
Prior:
2000 CVLX HPP - Gone... T-boned by an illegal
'92 CVLX HPP
'87 CV LTD
'84 TC

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#2952449 - 12/07/15 03:43 PM Re: My Coolant Flush Procedure. Correct? [Re: cruz07]
IPreferDIY Offline
Over the Hill

Registered: 05/12/15
Posts: 1082
Loc: Canada
Originally Posted By cruz07
Has anyone ever used one of the Prestone Radiator flush kits? I saw them all the time when I managed AZ and Oreilly's but never bought one to try it out. A few shops and customers aid they worked good but have never seen the kit in person be used.

My method is based on a Prestone kit I bought many years ago. It came with a funnel and attachment piece, a sleeve, a collection bag, and a coupler. You were supposed to cut the upper rad hose, attach the sleeve on the engine side, put the other end of the sleeve in the collection bag, attach the attachment piece and funnel on the rad side, and pour in premixed coolant while the old stuff came out after the thermostat started cycling. Then you were supposed to use the coupler to join the upper rad hose back together. I'm not a fan of cutting hoses, so I improvised. Since you don't know how much the fresh stuff gets mixed with the old stuff, I ultimately refined it to my current procedure noted above.

I'm not sure if the kit came with a garden hose adapter for the heater hose. If it did, I never bothered, and I don't see the point of it.

Originally Posted By Chaplian
Once again, tap water/garden hose water is not okay for use in cooling systems.

Ya, I'd never use tap water unless it was going to be thoroughly flushed with distilled water, which is only about $1 per jug anyway.
_________________________
2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 180,000 km as of May 2015
mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

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#2952545 - 12/07/15 05:13 PM Re: My Coolant Flush Procedure. Correct? [Re: Spanker]
PHoganDive Offline
Over the Hill

Registered: 06/11/11
Posts: 3078
Loc: Mass, USA
Originally Posted By Spanker
**#5: If your thermostat is removed, no need to idle for 10 minutes, try 2 minutes. Skip the distilled water, thats for batteries. Garden hose water is fine. Fill and flush 2 or 3 times until it drains clear. Flush is complete.

When cars get old, I put as much anti-freeze in as possible, then run with a loose radiator cap. With zero pressure it won't boil over with a high concentrate of antifreeze, and the zero pressure saves the heater core and radiator from blowing. The notion of poor heat transfer is nonsense. 25% water and 75% antifreeze is probably your best target for heat and freeze protection.

No burping is required. Give it a good run, get it hot, and check the coolant tank for proper level.

Don't go overboard with coolant. This stuff is good for 5 years minimum... unless you're looking for something to play with.

Lots of bad advice here, tap water is not fine for the cooling system.
As much coolant as possible is NOT a good idea, straight coolant freezes at about 10 degrees ABOVE zero, not too much better than plain water, however it doesn't expand when it freezes, so you won't crack the block, but you may trash the motor from overheating, as the frozen coolant elsewhere (hoses and radiator) won't allow circulation.
The additives in coolant get used up, particularly corrosion inhibitors, so it's not good for 5 years minimum (I don't even trust the extended use stuff that long). Hot water in a cast iron block = LOTS of rust without good corrosion inhibitors.

_________________________

2006 CVPI w/120K, J-Mod, MSD COPs, BOC Tune, American Muscle Wheels, Magnaflow Stainless Catback Duals, 35% tint, UltraGuage, headlight relay harness installed w/ 80/100 watt bulbs.

1996 GMQ 116K miles, Bilstein shocks, otherwise stock (Retired 7/2011)

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#2952561 - 12/07/15 05:22 PM Re: My Coolant Flush Procedure. Correct? [Re: 09MGMPW]
2011LX Offline
Over the Hill

Registered: 08/31/13
Posts: 1393
Loc: SE WI
While, like the other recent thread, this is being grossly over-complicated, I would like to add that while using distilled water is good practice, most auto and coolant manufacturers don't require it. Not without exceptions, 'drinkable water' is about as far as most go, and resulting problems from following those requirements have been zilch.

That said, tap water has and will continue will work fine. 100 years and billions of miles of field testing in an uncontrolled environment have proven that.

Again - this is being over-complicated. Old coolant mixture out, new coolant mixture in. It's not that hard. Get it done.

If this is really too difficult, maybe we should bail on the whole thing move back to air cooled engines. crazy2 Then we can proceed to debate some other insignificant nonsense.
_________________________
2011 Crown Victoria LX - purchased @ 37k miles
currently @ 100k miles
Dark Toreador Red Metallic exterior
Medium Light Stone interior

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#2952641 - 12/07/15 05:48 PM Re: My Coolant Flush Procedure. Correct? [Re: 2011LX]
stalag Offline
Over the Hill

Registered: 03/29/09
Posts: 3984
Loc: Columbus, OH
Originally Posted By 2011LX
While, like the other recent thread, this is being grossly over-complicated, I would like to add that while using distilled water is good practice, most auto and coolant manufacturers don't require it. Not without exceptions, 'drinkable water' is about as far as most go, and resulting problems from following those requirements have been zilch.

That said, tap water has and will continue will work fine. 100 years and billions of miles of field testing in an uncontrolled environment have proven that.

Again - this is being over-complicated. Old coolant mixture out, new coolant mixture in. It's not that hard. Get it done.

If this is really too difficult, maybe we should bail on the whole thing move back to air cooled engines. crazy2 Then we can proceed to debate some other insignificant nonsense.


My update to my thread on coolants specifically deals with the above use of tap water. Fords recommendation now is to use only distilled water and now uses only distilled water for flushes. Only the old silicate/phosphate formula was tolerant of tap water/well water/drinking water. All extended use formulas on the market today are distilled water only. There is a lot of new chemistry on this that explicitly turns on the head the use of tap water. Ergo, use distilled water only.
_________________________
Stalag;___________Just for Rizzo I am posting this in my sig. Coolants
2001 Lincoln Town Car Cartier L, 1997 Mercury Grand Marquis (extinct)
On my LTC the following mods/upgrades were added. Heinous motorsport control arms, Command Automotive SD-1 rotors (these rotors can no longer be obtained), Calipers by Goldlinebrakes.com in silver with Hawk HPS pads (now running Ford OEM), MSD COP's. MZT is also applied with programming from BOC. j-mod is now done. Final rebuild of transmission done by Gearstar.

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#2952649 - 12/07/15 05:54 PM Re: My Coolant Flush Procedure. Correct? [Re: Spanker]
Chaplian Offline
Insert witty title here
Poobah

Registered: 08/26/12
Posts: 5459
Loc: Chicago, IL
Originally Posted By Spanker
Tap water is fine. I've been using tap water since before your mother was born, without any trouble. Look at it this way, many marine engines are cooled by the dirty salt water they operate in, and most easily go 10-15 years without a problem, and they are cooled with hot salt water.

If you won't use it in your car, I certainly wouldn't be drinking it or bathing in it.

Further, if you go to the Ford parts site, the Motorcraft Pre-Diluted Coolant indicates it is a "50/50 mixture of coolant and treated (purified) water..." and then "Recommended by Ford Motor Company; meets warranty requirements."

"Purified" means run through a filter to get the sand/rust out of it. It is NOT mixed with distilled or deionized or any other nonsense, as it would say so if it was. Your wasting your time and money with distilled water.
www.fordparts.com/Products/Chemicals-EngineProducts-Coolants.aspx

It all depends on your water quality, but most municipal systems have reasonably decent water. Well-water is a different story.


Yes, and this is no longer the 40s where engines needed to be rebuilt every 40k miles. This 2015. Formulas have changes, tolerances are tighter, tap water is NOT suitable for use in automotive cooling systems. Marine engines are designed completely differently with different tolerances.
_________________________

2003 Crown Vic HPP- 226,xxx miles. Projector Retrofit. 3.27s. Dual exhaust. 11.25" torque converter. Arnott Limo Duty HPP-rate rear air springs. (Stolen by the old man)
1995 Impala SS- 28,293 miles. The Lovely Lady
2003 BMW 325i Sedan- 138,xxx miles. Eibach Springs, Bilstein shocks, polyurethane bushings, Projector Retrofitted lights, 330i brakes, 330i rear-end, 235/45/r17 Sport Comp 2s. Autocross machine.
2003 BMW 325i Wagon- 118,xxx miles. Eibach Springs, Koni Yellow shocks, M3 differential (LSD), M3 rear suspension/brakes, 330i front brakes, M3 6 Speed manual, Alcantara headliner.
2017 Mazda3 GT Hatchback- 57,xxxx miles. 2.5L, fully loaded. The Daily Grind.

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#2952681 - 12/07/15 06:04 PM Re: My Coolant Flush Procedure. Correct? [Re: 09MGMPW]
Spanker Offline
Member

Registered: 06/10/02
Posts: 306
Loc: Boston
Exactly what "tolerances" are you referring to? It's a cooling system.

As I pointed out above, Motorcraft Pre-Diluted Coolant is MADE WITH FILTERED TAP WATER.

Further, Marine blocks for pleasure craft are exactly the same as street blocks.
_________________________
2004 TC
Prior:
2000 CVLX HPP - Gone... T-boned by an illegal
'92 CVLX HPP
'87 CV LTD
'84 TC

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