Need to replace my watts link. I saw theres about 4 options on rockauto. Anyone know if one company used a stiffer material than the other? My luck I will buy the most flimsy one.

Metco, CHE but they will run you around $400 with shipping, but are the strongest

You Can buy a Motorcraft one from ebay or Tasca for just over $200. I wouldn't buy anything cheaper than that.

Beware they now have Chinese bushings. I installed mine last month, time will tell.

Rockauto has a Dorman replacement for less then 50 bucks. It is Chinese

Also as mentioned Metco. Thats what I have.

http://adtr.net/product/ford-crown-victoria/metco-billet-watts-link-98-whales/

I have 125,000 on it. I am replacing everything I guess. Dorman is the only one I can find. 60 bucks only. Somebody mentioned the stock watts link is a great make, but wouldnt mine be worn after those miles? Something about the name Dorman that scares me.Does moog make one?

turtle beat the rabbit=here I come

stock one is stamped steel..metco is billet aluminum..dpends on your goals for the car..stock works fine for what it is..

If you buy Dorman, it WILL be the flimsiest one...

Motorcraft is prolly the best overall value-for-money, where the Metco and CHE units are bullet-proof.

as others have said, che, metco..

I run a custom MEDC watts..

If talking a OEM replacement, ford watts can be had on ebay, and sometimes on amazon.

I am looking for a HD bell crank for the watts link. Does anyone make such an animal? I find complete watts links, or just the arms, but no bell crank. I am going to try these, so I can adjust it. My only reservation is its straight, and I can not find any thing on why it is curved, other than clearance.

If you mean the arm bolted to the pumpkin, thats a rather robust cast iron piece. If you don't worry about pitman arms on pre-rack 'n pinion cars, then you got nothing to worry about. =-)

Alex.

Here is hat I'm seeing
1st the watts arms are stamped flex-steel made for comfort not performance
2nd The CVPI is now lowered a bit, so the bell-crank is not centered anymore
3rd A lesson that You should never to forget, when you stiffen a chassis or suspension, the force from that area WILL be transmitted somewhere else... If you do not complete the processes form beginning to end of the path that that force travels, You will be chasing it till you do stiffen it start to finish. EX. If you firm up the front the force will move to the rear, so If you jump to the rear and firm up there, it will head back to the front to a point where it is or becomes lose so you firm it up there and back it goes and so on... That having been said the watts link is the last section in the rear suspension, and with the stamped arms I can feel the wrap up in a corner when those arms flex under pressure. I have the ARB bolt with oversized tubular arms, leaving the bell-crank bearing being the weak link left for the force to travel to, so it should be looked at for possible upgrade, or keep a spare on hand...

Can't tell what diameter rod that is, but I'm sure it will still bend or break before the bell crank does.

You have a point the strut rod is 3/4 od x 1/2 id.. it is a camber adjusting rod for a 90's Pontiac Grand prix, and I used it on a 95 SHO for rear control arms. Recycled engineering or as the American Pickers call it Repurposing. It will become a watts link, both arms are connected up, so after lunch I am going to begin measuring compression, drop, along with every moving plane in the rear suspension and insure there is not any binding.

This is what I just got. It wasnt quiet as described. I dont like the way it looks. Looks like I could almost bend it with me. Its not a Dorman, I guess. I dont like it. Its on my car now. Maybe its ok with the Addco rear? It is from AM Auto parts?

Nice, Are those a one off custom or available for purchase?