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#4125434 - 10/23/21 12:01 PM Re: Jerry's Crown Victorias [Re: av8or1]
357cvpi Offline
Rookie

Registered: 11/13/20
Posts: 52
Loc: UT
Does your battery guy build these as a business? This is exactly what I'm looking for for two cars. The factory terminal looks like a bandaid wrapped around the terminal and held together with a paperclip, and cables not much bigger than a lamp cord. Anyway, finding good cables is near impossible.

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#4125444 - 10/23/21 12:44 PM Re: Jerry's Crown Victorias [Re: 357cvpi]
av8or1 Offline

Over the Hill

Registered: 10/18/17
Posts: 1569
Loc: TX
Originally Posted By 357cvpi
Does your battery guy build these as a business? This is exactly what I'm looking for for two cars. The factory terminal looks like a bandaid wrapped around the terminal and held together with a paperclip, and cables not much bigger than a lamp cord. Anyway, finding good cables is near impossible.

I agree with the assertion that, generally speaking, OEM battery cables are typically just barely sufficient. I have never been impressed with what I've seen on our CVs. 'Wanted to do better for Ol' Blue. And I've done that, which is way to-the-good. I'm now considering a repeat for The 5-O.

Yes, the outfit in question is a business. They are Custom Battery Cables located in Apache Junction, AZ. The owner is a fella named Vince. The tech who created my harness is named Pete. The gal up-front was named Jamie. All were great to work with. As I mentioned, I sent them the original harness from Ol' Blue; after a discussion regarding what I wanted them to build, they disassembled said harness, measured the individual pieces-parts and created the new harness based on all gathered information. The new harness included loom. They even re-assembled the old harness and shipped it back to me. I can splice in a new exciter cable if I want and re-use it, though I doubt I will. Anyway, hope this helps.

Forgot to mention that another task I spent some time on during the past little bit was some maintenance of The 5-O. When I purchased a set of speed bleeders for Ol' Blue, I grabbed a second set for our CVPI. As a pre-test of sorts to verify function, I installed those:


We flushed the brakes while we were at it I might add. I mean why not? We're here. As for the speedies themselves, gheez but do they ever make bleeding an easy one-man task! double thumbs

Finally, I spent some time addressing all of the door dings, scratches and various parking lot rash that she has been subjected to during the course of our ownership. The most prominent of which was found (mysteriously) on the aft driver's side fender well:


The other section of The 5-O that has been adversely affected was the pax side rear door. The wife-eee parks Whitey on that side and is notorious for opening its driver's side rear door too much, thus dinging The 5-O. Over time it has become one of our family jokes in fact. Although I remind her to be careful, I don't put any heat on it. I mean if that type of phenomenon is your largest problem, you're doing alright. So no complaints. Anyway I touched that up as well.

Then there were small, tucked-away sections of the body where the paint job that I had done immediately after purchasing it in 2016 had flaked off:


And so I tended to those while I was at it. Then we concluded by treating the various blemishes caused mostly by rocks or other debris that havr impacted the body while driving. Ergo a general touchup to keep the rust out and The 5-O looking relatively clean.

All of which took time away from the mega-build if you will. However it's necessary maintenance, so it takes precedent.


Edited by av8or1 (10/23/21 12:53 PM)
_________________________
2010 CVPI (Former TEXAS Highway Patrol vehicle) POTM April 2020 POTM June 2021 double thumbs
2006 LX Sport air ride delete (2)
2006 F450 SD 6.0L PSD CC LWB flatbed 4x4
1985 Mazda RX7 GSL-SE
1970 Plymouth Road Runner A383 pistol grip tick-tock buckets

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#4125478 - 10/23/21 08:49 PM Re: Jerry's Crown Victorias [Re: av8or1]
Packman Offline
Climber

Registered: 01/17/07
Posts: 857
Loc: Joisey
My "Yes" wasn't out of jeer. So I take it there is no sanding party? Or guacamole casserole? Very disappointed!

With that said, I never liked the 4 gauge battery cables on my box CV. When I swapped in the 3G alternator, I ran 2 gauge cable to the battery.

When I pulled the 5.0; I ditched the battery cables and put 1/0 gauge welding cable in their place. Overkill? Definitely, but the cable was sitting in the basement doing nothing; so I figured, why not use them?

Are you keeping the badging? Or replacing the PI badge?
_________________________
Bop Your head and stomp your feet!
Droppin' it nicely, droppin' it neat!

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#4125580 - 10/24/21 10:16 PM Re: Jerry's Crown Victorias [Re: av8or1]
SocalSam Online   content
Over the Hill

Registered: 03/30/13
Posts: 3164
Loc: SFV, Calif.
Originally Posted By av8or1
a_d_a_m - Thanks.

Sam - Well this project is next level something. Insanity perhaps. Thank you for the sentiment just the same. 'Preciate it.
Stu and Packman - Hah! The day Stu ever shows up I'll eat my wife's guacamole casserole. rofl

That said, thank you both for the supportive commentary, even if partly/mostly in-jest. 'Preciate that also.

Well fellas, I've been offline with project updates for a bit. That absence has been somewhat due to a shortage of available time but mostly because of the type of work I've been engaging in since my last post. It has involved wiring almost entirely; I enjoy such work overall but it can be quite fiddly and time consuming, depending. And if you encounter any "gifts/surprises" (which I of course did) that will only lengthen the amount of time required to complete the sub-task. Finally a neighbor was a-gonna scrap his Scag ZTR (zero turn radius) mower that he bought new for about $6,500. I asked him "how much?" He replied "free 'cause it doesn't run." I said "sold." And just like that I had yet even another project. Sigh. But no complaints. Back to the build ...

So when I left off, I was kinda at a bit of a crossroads. Do the body and paint work or switch gears by re-establishing function? I chose to focus on the latter, the mechanical, first. So where to begin? Well the thing has a-gotta have electrical energy to run. Thus before I can even step-toe into the make-it-run ballpark I needed to address the engine bay wiring harness. After all it is a primary component involved with a running CV. laugh

You might recall that I did some work to it when I installed the GMQ cornering lights. I then sewed-up the driver's side of that harness but left the central and pax side undone. I did so because of the decision to include GMQ fog lights. And of course if I was to re-use C260 (which is the large firewall connector) then I would need to undo the work that I had just done to driver's side. Sigh. Not the best planning. Oh well, with this build I have been operating in a "that's cool, yeah, let's do that" kinda mode. Thus the upgrades have been developing as I progress rather than as part of a precise, coordinated plan. And that comes with a cost dontchaknow. Worth it however, no complaints. As I have stated in the past, I do have a general plan, I simply hadn't thought of such upgrades at the outset. IMHO they are tool-cool-for-school to cast off with little more than a wave of the hand. And so I have been adjusting as I go. But I digress.

Anyway if all of that wasn't enough, even after green-lighting the fog thing way back when I have decided to add oil pressure (EOP) and oil temperature (EOT) sensors "while I'm here". Uuuuuggghhhhh. But more on that in a minute. It is now time for a caveat: the remainder of this post details the electrical work that I have completed to the engine bay harness that originally came out of Ol' Blue. If such content is old-hat, uninteresting, boring or otherwise "meh" to you, I completely understand. This can be kinda dry. Feel free to discontinue reading at this point. biggrin

Alright, time to get to work. I pulled the engine bay harness out from storage. I made a general assessment as to its current state. At a glance it was still in good shape. As I would learn, yeah, not so much. Don't want to get ahead of myself though, so more on that in a bit. After taking this look-see at the harness as a whole, I pulled out the two fog light wiring harnesses that I sourced online:


They came from a 2008 GMQ that a fella in MO was parting out. FWIW. 'Then searched for a while and eventually found the harness that I removed from that salvage yard 2008 GMQ as shown several posts ago, as it contained the fog light wiring:


By the time this sub-task drew to a close (for the time being) I had scarfed more stuff from this harness, as well as the 2004 and 2005 harnesses that I keep on-hand. I do so precisely for this purpose mind you. Having those harnesses readily available sure comes in handy in these types of siutations.

Note that the fog light wires are TN-OG. As far as a 10 minute check would reveal, this is the only instance in which that particular combination is used. Certainly in this harness and the engine harness. I would hazard to extend that to the entire vehicle, but I don't know that for certain. Thus I have to stop short of making such an assertion. The point being that there wasn't enough of this wiring because it runs completely around to the BJB. When I removed this stuff from that salvage yard 2008 GMQ, I snipped off the applicable wire at the pax side 90-degree bend. This resulted in a gap in this wiring because the it wouldn't even come closs to reaching the BJB. This shortage would introduce yet another delay, as I had to source the same colored wire online and wait several days for it to arrive. Sure, I could have used a different color but noooooooooooo! laugh

CDO aside, I began at the fog light fuse. And yes, in the event that you haven't surmised that I intend to wire the fog lights in by replicating their factory locations down to the correct pinout (and then rolled your eyes), that is precisely what I elected to do. So ... the fuse:


It is F16 in the BJB:


Fortunately for me the +12V power (constant) bus bar in the BJB does indeed extend to that fuse position. Thus all I would need to do is to run a wire from one terminal on that fuse to pin 3 on the fog light relay. Easy-peasy as the lil' un would say. Unfortunately I couldn't find the OG-LG wire that the manual calls for in this case. I would have to settle for WH-RD. My CDO wasn't happy but he'd just have to deal with it. laugh

And done to include a new, previously-didn't-exist-in-this-BJB 15A fuse:


The new fog light relay should be located here:


According to the manual. Although I experimented with an alternate location, my CDO eventually got the better of me and I switched it to the one depicted above. laugh

That done I chose to begin with the pax side fog light drop, since that was in-tact from the aforementioned 2008 GMQ. The ground for this light is supposed to run to S114. However you don't want to futz with a factory splice (IMHO), so I just made my own:


At this point it seems as good of a time as any to mention the "gifts" that I encountered along the way. Or a couple of them at least. This kinda thing happens, so I was neither surprised nor put-off by it. It was, as always, annoying. That said, you can't just leave that type of stuff unaddressed. And so I spent the time to make it right. The first item I'll bring to light came about when I went to establish the ground for the driver's side fog light drop. I had soldered in the TN-OG power wire and then needed to decide how I was a-gonna go about supplying a ground. I didn't like the idea of splicing into anything "just 'cause". Since there was a dedicated ground point nearby, I elected to run the ground for the fog light directly to that common ground point. Said point is below the windshield fluid bottle and on the inside of the driver's fender. Ergo I would merely solder in a length of wire from the end of the fog light pigtail and run it to that ground point, to include an eyelet. To do that, I needed to remove the loom and tape from that section of the harness. And what would I find after so-doing? Yup, this:


Hidden underneath the loom. "Big deal" you might say. Well to me it is a big deal for which there is no cowbell cure but to cut it out and solder in new stuff. So I did just that and the result is shown on the right in the above picture. Later on during a closer inspection of the harness I would find this:


That is the horn. No wonder it didn't work during the test drive! laugh Fixed that up too, as shown on the right. And fellas there were at least two or three other similar issues in this loom. I will forego their inclusion in this post, as you likely get the point. In the end I removed almost all of the loom on that harness and had a close look at all of the wiring. This too was quite time consuming, but necessary given what I was seeing. Upon the conclusion of which I felt somewhat-kinda-yeah-maybe that I had rid the harness of its demons. TBD.

So once the two fog light drops were installed, I ran the BL-WH wire from the control side of the relay in the BJB all the way through the harness to C260 (firewall connector). I repeated that for the power side wire (TN-OG), which joins the two power side wires at S170, which is near the firewall. Those run to pinouts 60 and 53 respectively, according to the manual:


Which of course don't exist in this harness, as fog lights were not an available option on a CV of this era. With a little work though, they found their new home:


I then soldered in a section of the new TN-OG wire on the pax side to extend it to the BJB. And with that the fog light work had been completed. Good. No time to rest though. Continuing on, the oil stuff was next. I chose GN for the oil pressure and RD-WH for the oil temperature:


By this time there were only three available pins in the central section (thinner wire gauge) of C260. I chose to utilize pins 28 and 52 for this purpose, as they were the easiest to access (seen on the right in the above picture). Furthermore, due to the location where I anticipate picking-up the signal for these two PIDs, I decided to run their wiring from C260 down along the driver's side of the harness and then up through the branch that leads to the ABS/HCU and engine fan, amongst other things. I then simply coiled the surplus wiring and taped it together. I'll polish off that bit of wiring once installed in the vehicle.

I then did some piddly work, replacing old, tired, worn-out loom, taping various sections of the loom, painting the BJB and firewall connectors in Black Trim. As I was so-doing I noticed the larger-gauge wire that runs from the BJB to the battery. As a truck guy, I tend to favor military style battery connectors and *large* gauge battery wire. I know a fella whose business involves custom fabrication of just such wiring. Tell him that you have a F-350 of some vintage and he can pull one off of the shelf and send it to ya. He also does custom fab work. Basically send him what you want to have done and he'll send you back an improved version along with the originals. So I dunno, I may touch base with him this week to see if he couldn't cobble up a section of wire that I find more agreeable. And some of this section of stuff that came off of Ol' Blue leaves a bit to be desired in regard to its condition, so it's just as well. TBD. Told ya that I was no-good (I mean suckville) at leaving well-enough alone. laugh

Anyway so I continued to tape stuff until I exhausted my supply of material. More tape is on-order. I'll do a little more touch up at that point. Until then and the pending larger gauge battery wire alternative venture (if/when), this is version 1.0 of the engine bay wiring harness:


That is where I'd have to leave it for the night. Hope all is well with everyone!


Late to comment as usual. As nice as the rest of Blue is, I might have been tempted to buy a new engine side harness from Ford. Maybe you are two steps ahead of me. It is not that expensive. Anyways, I was patching the plastic tubing on my harness and thanking the Panther Gods that my CVPI does not have electrical gremlins. On a side note, the plastic tubing in the hottest parts of the engine compartment turned into dust. Re-tubing sensor wires is a must. Sensors send resistance value to PCM for reading so if exposed wire is adding resistance, the sensor value will not be correct.
_________________________
2004 CV LX Sport #2, 121,000 miles -- Current
2008 CVPI Arizona Beige, 121,000 miles, 677 idle hours -- Current
Option Adds: Message Center Instrument Cluster , Re-Key Locks , Passenger Door Lock , Autolamps , Ballistic Panels


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#4125588 - 10/24/21 10:52 PM Re: Jerry's Crown Victorias [Re: av8or1]
357cvpi Offline
Rookie

Registered: 11/13/20
Posts: 52
Loc: UT
Thanks for the info, av8tor1. I will get in touch with this outfit as I have a few vehicles that need battery cables and the available replacements look even cheaper/lighter than the factory stuff. Great work, by the way, and it's been inspiring to follow your work.

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#4126472 - 10/30/21 01:29 AM Re: Jerry's Crown Victorias [Re: 357cvpi]
av8or1 Offline

Over the Hill

Registered: 10/18/17
Posts: 1569
Loc: TX
Originally Posted By Packman
My "Yes" wasn't out of jeer. So I take it there is no sanding party? Or guacamole casserole? Very disappointed!
Are you keeping the badging? Or replacing the PI badge?

Well, there will be a sanding party one day. Just not yet. biggrin

Badging? Which vehicle? Meh, doesn't matter. All badging will remain original. I do need to replace the Police Interceptor badge on the trunk lid of The 5-O, now that I think about it. I seem to recall having one somewhere, just need to lay-hands on it.

Originally Posted By SocalSam
Late to comment as usual. As nice as the rest of Blue is, I might have been tempted to buy a new engine side harness from Ford. Maybe you are two steps ahead of me. It is not that expensive.

Hmmmmmmm...are you referring to the engine harness or the engine bay harness? I did inquire with a couple of dealerships at the outset of the project about this. However they laughed (in all cases) and told me that harnesses were long-since discontinued. With the engine bay harness I would have had to modify it either way, as a new 2006 LX harness wouldn't have included the cornering lights. And certainly not the EOT/EOP wiring. So...

Originally Posted By 357cvpi
Thanks for the info, av8tor1. I will get in touch with this outfit as I have a few vehicles that need battery cables and the available replacements look even cheaper/lighter than the factory stuff. Great work, by the way, and it's been inspiring to follow your work.

Let me know how it works out for you.

Well fellas I have been in a hurry-up-n-wait mode for the last few days. I ordered three gauges from AutoMeter. Two of the gauges, specifically the EOT and EOP, came with senders. The story would have ended there but Stu talked me into doing a voltmeter gauge too. Thanks Stu! You a-gonna come wire that one in? laugh I also ordered some braided hose to route a tad bit of the engine oil to a union, which I will mount on the inner side of the driver's frame. These two senders will mount in that union. As mentioned in a previous post, the wiring for the EOT/EOP runs through the engine bay harness and the firewall connector (C260). I cannot polish off that wiring and hose routing until the pieces-parts from AutoMeter arrive. And therein lies the rub: they are running WAY behind. I ordered mid-month and my stuff hasn't even shipped yet. They charged the heck out of our credit card, naturally, but nothing is in the wind. Gggrrrreeeeeaaaaatttt. Called them today, they will get back with me on Monday. And so I wait.

There is stuff-o-plenty to tend to in the meantime. So I have been busy with that. I found the driver's side front inner fender (or splash shield) that came with Ol' Blue and removed the PCM. Since I will need to mount the fenders in order to mount the inners/splash shields, I decided to sand, prime and paint their brackets in DX:


While I was there I separated the PCM and its bracket, then gave them the same treatment. Currently, I have exhausted my rattle-can black, so I had to go with what I had on-hand at the time, which was a Rustoleum product. It is but one in their "Hammered" series, so this is "Hammered" black. Kinda has a "textured-ish" look to it. Meh. Came out ok. I also touched up the plastic trim piece that surrounds the front-most portion of the engine bay harness:


And wouldn't ya know it but I'm out of Trim Black (or Black Trim) too. More is on-order but heck if I was a-gonna wait. Thus this wiring protector will have the "Hammered" look. It's buried, no one will ever see how "cool" it ended up being (according to the wife-eee, who I am relatively sure was shining me on with her commentary, but I digress).

Alright, so "cheese work" aside, it was high-time to finish mounting the accessories. I am still not certain which direction I want to go with the A/C compressor, so I elected to begin with the power steering pump. I have been deferring that task during the past couple of weeks because I wanted to establish the existence and orientation of everything that will lie just aft of it first. That is, my configuration will have a union that threads into the oil filter housing, the OEM oil pressure switch will extend from that union, as will the aforementioned braided hose from AutoMeter. And since I'm still waiting on that hose...well I have been deferring. I don't want to mount the pump until all of that crap is configured and I can verify that it won't interfere with the pump. Or vice versa. Having said all of that, I want to continue moving forward. So much still lies ahead that there is no time to doddle.

And so I began to consider the pump itself. Like everything else I had wanted to go-new with this power steering pump thing. However given the quandry that I am in and the cost of even a low-budget, foreign-rebuilt unit, I decided that perhaps a better option would be to just rebuild the pump myself. And so I have gone in that direction. I found a kit online to match our pumps and ordered two of them. Why two? Because I have two pumps that have been sitting around forEVER:


One is from Ol' Blue and the other is from a salvage yard something or other that I snagged who-knows-when. I decided to build both of them so that there will be one on the shelf, ready to go should one of ours take a dump somewhere down the line. Alrighty then, time to dig in. First was the removal of the external stuff, meaning the pulley and hose:


The pulleys on our units are press-fit onto the shaft, so you'll need some type of removal tool. Then there are the pump fasteners, which are a 10 hex bit and a 21mm socket IIRC. Anyway out came the flow control valve, its spring and the dump cap. The o-rings on these fasteners were in horrible shape, on both units, so it would have just been a short matter of time prior to a leak occurring, if any time at all. Thus the decision to go-new or to rebuild was a good call. Next it was time to remove the main body. This is held in by a c-clip style snap ring:


Ergo this isn't a cir-clip or a conventional snap ring that you can remove via snap ring pliers. Fret not though, for there is a solution. Ford included a small hole on the side of the housing:


Through which you can slide a stright pick to push the ring out, then use a plain-Jane flathead screwdriver to remove said clip:


That done, be careful with the removal of the main body. Our pumps are the typical rotary vane type, but if you pull things apart too fast or just dump it all out, well you might not be able to recall how it is supposed to go back together. Thus I took my time to look closely at the arrangement of the pieces-parts and took a couple of pictures to boot. The end cap, outer side plate and cam ring came off together, thanks to the two dowel pins:


Then we (the lil' un just had to help dontchaknow!) removed the vanes, rotor and shaft:


There are 10 vanes. Unlike other pumps I've rebuilt, a close inspection of these critters revealed no discernable difference in their individual structures. That is, the sides and ends were of identical shape. By contrast, on other pumps the inner side will be flat while the outer is rounded. Not so here. The same went for the two dowels: identical length and diameter. Next comes the disassembly of the shaft. To do that, you must remove the tinsy c-clip:


Without it flying across the shop, which of course mine did. Oh well, a new one comes in the kit, so I chose not to go scrounging for it. At that point you must commence inspecting everything for condition. The shaft, the housing, the bushing (which I don't think comes with the kit, need to check that) the rotor, the vanes, the cam ring, the side plates, dowels, just everything. Interesting side note: while looking at the housings I noticed a number therein:


There was a "112" on one and a "47" on the other. That could have meant various things, but somehow, some way I found that curious enough to mention. Huh, interesting. I digress.

For us, although these two pumps had some wear on these components, it was not excessive or worrying. So I green-lighted both for re-use. Skipping ahead to an almost-complete disassembly of both units:


And that is where I had to leave it for the night. I'll run these through the parts washer over the weekend. However no heat on that, as the kits won't arrive until Monday at the earliest. More hurry-up-n-wait. Yay! laugh


Edited by av8or1 (10/30/21 01:45 AM)
_________________________
2010 CVPI (Former TEXAS Highway Patrol vehicle) POTM April 2020 POTM June 2021 double thumbs
2006 LX Sport air ride delete (2)
2006 F450 SD 6.0L PSD CC LWB flatbed 4x4
1985 Mazda RX7 GSL-SE
1970 Plymouth Road Runner A383 pistol grip tick-tock buckets

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#4126550 - 10/30/21 10:56 PM Re: Jerry's Crown Victorias [Re: av8or1]
av8or1 Offline

Over the Hill

Registered: 10/18/17
Posts: 1569
Loc: TX
Quick update: Although I am still in a holding pattern for parts, I decided to jump ahead a bit with a couple of mundane tasks that I would have preferred to tackle after I had the engine in-shape. And speaking of parts, I didn't mention in my previous post that I have installed the EGR and its tube, which I've had lying around for a while now. Besides the AutoMeter kruft, I am also waiting on a new EVAP purge valve (and bracketry). That however, is in transit and is supposed to arrive on Monday. TBD.

So today I must have lost it a bit. I overdid. Again. As if I haven't done that type of thing enough with this build. Today's entry into the gone-overboard zany-ness included the cleaning, sanding, priming and painting the splash shields/inner fenders:


But that wasn't enough. Too easy. Too much daylight left. I needed something else. And so I decided to refurbish the core support that I brought home eons ago:


Which came from a 2009 CVPI as I recall. We dispensed of the extraneous stuff quite a while back, leaving us with this as of earlier today:


In the event that you don't recall (I mean it has been a long time!) the core support that came in Ol' Blue was damaged from whatever collision the previous owners got themselves into. And so I sourced this replacement support. I suppose that this aspect of today's goings-on isn't so much of an overboard thing. I mean the core support was a-gonna be cleaned and painted at some point regardless, so why not now? And so its time through the process came today. After removing all of the external stuff and removing the two inner brackets, I discovered that even after a bath this support had so much kruft on it that it was in need of closer scrutiny. So I busted out the angle grinder and a flap disc, then went at it:


Thus taking it down to (mostly) bare metal. Once cleaned again, I applied 2 coats of the self-etch stuff. Let that dry. Then on went the Dark Blue Pearl:


Had to leave it there for the night. It needs to dry thoroughly anyway. The plan tomorrow is to clean it and apply the clear.

I need those parts! laugh
_________________________
2010 CVPI (Former TEXAS Highway Patrol vehicle) POTM April 2020 POTM June 2021 double thumbs
2006 LX Sport air ride delete (2)
2006 F450 SD 6.0L PSD CC LWB flatbed 4x4
1985 Mazda RX7 GSL-SE
1970 Plymouth Road Runner A383 pistol grip tick-tock buckets

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#4126604 - 10/31/21 05:05 PM Re: Jerry's Crown Victorias [Re: av8or1]
SocalSam Online   content
Over the Hill

Registered: 03/30/13
Posts: 3164
Loc: SFV, Calif.
Restoration where no one can see is very cool.
_________________________
2004 CV LX Sport #2, 121,000 miles -- Current
2008 CVPI Arizona Beige, 121,000 miles, 677 idle hours -- Current
Option Adds: Message Center Instrument Cluster , Re-Key Locks , Passenger Door Lock , Autolamps , Ballistic Panels


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#4126630 - 11/01/21 12:55 AM Re: Jerry's Crown Victorias [Re: av8or1]
av8or1 Offline

Over the Hill

Registered: 10/18/17
Posts: 1569
Loc: TX
Sam- Yeah I think it is. Sure, I realize that it will never be seen. That said, I do this type of thing primarily for longevity reasons. Metal is painted to prevent rust and such, thus the metal can endure for a longer period of time. I plan on being here only once, so might as well do it right by baking in some long-term protection. Or at least attempt to do so. laugh

And speaking of that, I had an extra can of the rubber undercoating stuff. I flipped the splash shields/inner fenders over and exhausted that can while coating them. A little extra insurance can go a long way. The core support came out looking alright:


I should have taken the time to sand down some of the scratches that the 40 grit flap disc left behind. However, you have to look for them to notice, so all-n-all the end result was satisfactory. 'Laid down two coats of spray can clear, which I am not a fan of, but that came out ok too. In the above picture you can see the self-etch that I applied to the parking brake retainer bracket. I ground that down with the flap disc too then sanded it. Although I sourced a few cans of gloss black from a local box store over the weekend, I decided to remain with the Hammered Black that I have used recently. The thought being to lend the under-the-hood experience a bit of a theme. rolleyes laugh

So I applied that to the above bracket, as well as one of the power steering pumps that I removed from the parts washer today:


I don't know what happened with this picture. Likely was a combination of the shop lights and the camera flash. These parts have a golden color to them (in this picture) that just doesn't exist IRL (In Real Life). So, darken them a tad in your noggin and you'll have a feel for what they actually look like. I also hit the pulleys while I was at it:


And speaking of the power steering pump internals, I pulled both sets from the washer and onto clean shop towels:


I didn't mention this in a previous post, but one of these shafts has a groove worn in it that you can just catch with your fingernail:


And so I have decided to swap shafts. It is possible that I will proceed with building both pumps, but full-well knowing that the backup has an issue. Granted, it is not formidable in size or scope, but you should replace that shaft in an ideal world. We don't live in that world and it would be highly doubtful that one could source an internal part like that. To speak openly I am half-tempted to forego building the second and just save the rebuild kit for a new-to-me pump that I pull off of a Panther in a future salvage yard run. I haven't made any of those lately though; 'seemed like every time I did someone would approach me wanting to borrow a tool or ask me where the vehicle that they were seeking was located. The last fella who did that was dressed in shorts, a t-shirt and sandals. He had no tools and actually asked me to come remove the part for him. Using my tools mind you. I was under that 2007 CVPI pulling the power steering rack at the time. Just turned me off even though I am a veteran of the process and have experienced that type of thing several times in the past. Haven't returned since. laugh I will. Someday. When I *really* need something. I digress.

Hope all is well this Halloween!


Edited by av8or1 (11/01/21 01:01 AM)
_________________________
2010 CVPI (Former TEXAS Highway Patrol vehicle) POTM April 2020 POTM June 2021 double thumbs
2006 LX Sport air ride delete (2)
2006 F450 SD 6.0L PSD CC LWB flatbed 4x4
1985 Mazda RX7 GSL-SE
1970 Plymouth Road Runner A383 pistol grip tick-tock buckets

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#4126996 - 11/06/21 01:45 AM Re: Jerry's Crown Victorias [Re: av8or1]
av8or1 Offline

Over the Hill

Registered: 10/18/17
Posts: 1569
Loc: TX
Well it's been a busy, but good, week on this end. How's y'all? Hope all is well.

I managed to find time here-n-there to work on Ol' Blue this week. The primary task was to complete the rebuild of the power steering pump. That was fairly straightforward once I had the kit in hand. BTW, in the end I decided to only rebuild one pump now, using the best of the two pumps to make a good-to-decent one. The primary reason for that was, as illustrated in the previous post, the groove in one of the shafts. I just couldn't put it back together like that, however I attempted to convince myself that it would "be ok." Myself didn't agree. So the second kit will wait for a future pump from a salvage yard run. I digress. Back to the rebuild of this pump... the fasteners are of different sizes (varying in diameter and pitch) so the question of which o-ring goes where was simplified. Although the replacement of the shaft c-clip was tricky, the only wrinkle that I encountered was the installation of the new (and large) snap ring on the outside of the pump. This clip retains the internals. Without it the pump would come apart rather quickly under pressure, then possibly seize depending on how it came apart. Once you have it together, the internals won't seat enough for you to install the snap ring. Thus it needs a little convincing. To do that, I busted-out one of my suspension-grade c-clamps:


That of course yielded good access for the snap ring to find its way home. 'Went in like-budda, unthreaded the clamp, installed the front seal and the pulley. Job done:


In Hammered Black no less. laugh

I then decided to polish off the parking brake thing. Decided to plop the two bolts that hold the bracket to the the cross member into cardboard and Hammer them as well:


And of course I gave the parking brake cable retention spring the same treatment. 'Gone so far with this build as it is, why not? Then mounted it:


And connected the front and rear cables at the union. Next came the parking brake actuator. You might recall that I sourced one online from a 2007 GMQ, for it had/has the vacuum operated release feature. I plan on introducing that in Ol' Blue. While it was never on this Panther, such a feature did exist on others of that same era (thus the 2007 GMQ from which the part itself originated). Since the wife has been known to drive with the parking brake on, well, this will remedy that possible scenario. laugh

To begin work on that aspect of the parking brake system I removed the old/original brake actuator and compared it to the aforementioned one from the GMQ:


I would need to transfer the column support from the old to the new. Apart from that these two are plug-n-play. 'Couldn't leave it at that though. rolleyes Nope. I decided that the rust needed to be sanded, then the unit needed to be primed and painted. This is the comparison after said work was completed:


Finally, during the removal of the original actuator I noticed that the parking brake wiring was unprotected:


Granted, it is internal so that is not a huge concern, but still. 'Couldn't leave it like that. So I found some small-diameter loom from one of our spare harnesses, applied that and then rounded out the job with the new-fangled tape. You can see that (if you look closely enough) in this final-installation (I hope) picture:


That would be all that I had time for this week. Take care!


Edited by av8or1 (11/06/21 01:56 AM)
_________________________
2010 CVPI (Former TEXAS Highway Patrol vehicle) POTM April 2020 POTM June 2021 double thumbs
2006 LX Sport air ride delete (2)
2006 F450 SD 6.0L PSD CC LWB flatbed 4x4
1985 Mazda RX7 GSL-SE
1970 Plymouth Road Runner A383 pistol grip tick-tock buckets

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#4127082 - 11/07/21 01:19 AM Re: Jerry's Crown Victorias [Re: av8or1]
av8or1 Offline

Over the Hill

Registered: 10/18/17
Posts: 1569
Loc: TX
Had family stuff today but managed to combine one of the outings with a stop by a local dealership. I decided to go-new with the transmission cooler lines and had ordered them earlier this week. I did so because the set that I removed from Ol' Blue oh-so-long-ago had this crap on the end near the cooler:


Seems obvious that they had a leak and further that this gah-lopedy goop was their attempt at resolving it. It was unclear whether or not the leak was from the lines or the cooler. I suspect the cooler, specifically at the fittings. Regardless I simply opted to replace the kruft that I found. A new radiator, condensor and power steering cooler were always on the agenda anyway (as well as the fan) so why not do new lines too? Anyway here is the comparison:


I then gave the old set to the lil' un for his metal recycling adventures. Took a few minutes tonight to install them:


And:


Obviously I need these if the plan is to work on restoring function. I delayed dealing with them until after the engine was built and was sitting in the center of its nest simply because it would be all too easy to mangle these during the engine mounting process. Better to do this type of thing post-fashion IMHO.

And with that I had to head inside to help the wife with the lil' un. Thinking of hitting a salvage yard tomorrow, depending on the goings-on 'round the house. I need a few fasteners as well as other odds-n-ends. Can't find the power steering fluid reservoir for example. And I need to decide what to do about hoses, etc.

Y'all take care!


Edited by av8or1 (11/07/21 01:22 AM)
_________________________
2010 CVPI (Former TEXAS Highway Patrol vehicle) POTM April 2020 POTM June 2021 double thumbs
2006 LX Sport air ride delete (2)
2006 F450 SD 6.0L PSD CC LWB flatbed 4x4
1985 Mazda RX7 GSL-SE
1970 Plymouth Road Runner A383 pistol grip tick-tock buckets

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#4127182 - 11/07/21 10:55 PM Re: Jerry's Crown Victorias [Re: av8or1]
av8or1 Offline

Over the Hill

Registered: 10/18/17
Posts: 1569
Loc: TX
Well fellas I had planned on continuing progress with Ol' Blue today but wasn't able to circle the wagons back 'round to that. I am in need of parts and so I decided to hit one of my usual yards. The plan was to snag a power steering reservoir or two to include its hoses, see what could be had in regard to coolant and heater core hoses, and unthread a handful or so of various fasteners that seem to have grown legs. Then return home and install some of the goods on the wife-eee's new ride (someday). Alas, it wouldn't work out that way. In the end however, that was a good thing.

I chose this yard because they had a slew of CVs on-hand. I suspected that they would all be CVPIs (or at least almost all) and that guess was correct. Only one was a non-B/W, and it appeared to be one of those "detective's car" variants. That said, there had to have been at least 6 - 8 of these things, varying in year model from 2008 - 2011. Also in varying condition of disrepair. The detective's car was missing its engine altogether, but I found it along side near the driver's front door, mysteriously. Anyway with such good access provided by a couple of these critters, I ended up pulling extra power steering pumps, oil filter housings and even an extra set of transmission cooler lines. A few of them appeared to be fresh-to-the-yard and surprisingly the hoses in those CVPIs were still in quite good shape. So in the end I came out with a couple of sets of heater core hoses and a couple of top radiator hoses. I didn't find a civilian variant from which I could remove the lower radiator hose, unfortunately. However I seem to recall seeing the one I pulled from Ol' Blue the other day. I'll check it out to see if it is in decent condition. If so I may just run that. The "great access" CVPIs also made it easy to pull the power steering reservoirs and their associated hoses. By the time I left I had two sets of hoses and three reservoirs. I purchased that many by the way because they ran about $5 each, so why not? I'm here. And they were right there, easily removed. And so I am set on hoses and power steering stuff for a while. The other kruft will become spare parts that can be applied to any of our CVs.

Ok so that's that. Cool. 'Went to leave in the early afternoon. On the way out I spotted this:


Which is a 2001 GMQ. "Ho-hum" I said to myself. However I take a quick look around most any Panther I see, mostly because I am a fan of the platform in general. So I open the driver's front door and what do I see? A complete LX Sport style center console with shifter. Wha-? I didn't even know that the center console was a thing in a GMQ. However I was oblivious because there it was, in all of its OEM glory. 'Just beggin' me to take her home. Oh boy. The time was approaching the yard closing, but I couldn't take the chance on the car being scrapped prior to the point at which I could make it back out there. And so I put the heat on the mustard, shifted into high gear, grabbing tools and setting about removing this thing. Being careful of course not to damage anything as I went. The console itself came out quickly enough and I was left with the shifter. Great, ok let's remove that next. WAIT! Wha-? You gotta be kidding me! YES!

This particular shifter had the shift position sensor on the pax side of its main body AND two vacuum hoses running to it! Incredible! So there it was! Everything that I would need to introduce the vacuum parking brake into Ol' Blue. Granted, I already have the parking brake actuator and I've sourced the sensor from a different console, but here is a complete system, from the factory and yes, one of the vacuum lines did run to the parking brake actuator. And I don't have the vacuum hoses to connect it all. The plan was to source those, which can be done easily enough. However this saves me the effort. Anyway, yeah, ALL OF THIS was coming home with me. TODAY! In the end I had to remove a fair amount of the dash to get to everything, but I was able to remove all but the actuator. Don't really need it but it would have been a bonus. Just too difficult to reach that top bolt with the dash installed. There I go again being spoiled with great access in Ol' Blue! laugh The only hiccup in all of that was that the vacuum hose that runs through the firewall broke as I attempted to pull it through. So I don't have quite everything. No problem though I can cobble that small portion together. Just wow!

Anyway so this was the haul for the day:


The friggin cubby fell off of the cart as I was leaving (they were calling out that the yard was closing as I left the 2001 GMQ behind), unfortunately. That's too valuable, so I plan on jetting out there tomorrow after work to retrieve it. Hopefully no one will have stepped on or smashed it by then. laugh

To me this was the most valuable "get" of today's outing:


A new-to-us shifter, complete with the vacuum hoses and a sensor. And no broken tabs, no broken plastic, no cracked housing, nothing. None of that. This shifter is in far better condition than the one we found on Ol' Blue and it will have a new home therein instead of the original critter.

No progress on the actual project today, but critical parts are important, so all-n-all it was a great day for Ol' Blue!

Y'all take care!
_________________________
2010 CVPI (Former TEXAS Highway Patrol vehicle) POTM April 2020 POTM June 2021 double thumbs
2006 LX Sport air ride delete (2)
2006 F450 SD 6.0L PSD CC LWB flatbed 4x4
1985 Mazda RX7 GSL-SE
1970 Plymouth Road Runner A383 pistol grip tick-tock buckets

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#4127198 - 11/08/21 03:51 AM Re: Jerry's Crown Victorias [Re: av8or1]
SocalSam Online   content
Over the Hill

Registered: 03/30/13
Posts: 3164
Loc: SFV, Calif.
Great score indeed!
_________________________
2004 CV LX Sport #2, 121,000 miles -- Current
2008 CVPI Arizona Beige, 121,000 miles, 677 idle hours -- Current
Option Adds: Message Center Instrument Cluster , Re-Key Locks , Passenger Door Lock , Autolamps , Ballistic Panels


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#4127226 - 11/08/21 12:13 PM Re: Jerry's Crown Victorias [Re: av8or1]
Dmblanch Offline
Climber

Registered: 11/13/19
Posts: 640
Loc: Utah
you found yourself a very rare LSE! I've never even seen one.

How were the bucket seats? If they were good, I'd have thought you'd have grabbed them too.

I know your delight. My last trip to the junkyard was supposed to be a cursory scouting trip, I didn't even take my tools. I only went because the online inventory said they'd just received two town cars and a P71. I fully expected them to be crap and/or picked over. Nope, I grabbed a police console out of the vic and two full sets of gorgeous town car leather, front and back, out of the LTC;s. I had to call in sick at work to go back and snag them before anyone else did.
_________________________

1) 2002 White P71 - 89K miles. 2) 2003 B&W P71 - 74K. 3) & 6) & 11) 2005 White P71 - 54K, 74k, 115K. 4) 2011 Black P7B - 79K. 5) 2008 White P71 - 95k. 7) 2004 Silver P71 - 104K. 8) 2004 DT Red LX Sport - 111K. 9) & 10) 2010 White P7B SAP - 104K & 106K. 12) 2006 White P71 - scrapped. 13) 2007 Gray LX Sport - 125k. 14) 2006 White MGM LS Premium - 93k.

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#4127272 - 11/08/21 09:44 PM Re: Jerry's Crown Victorias [Re: Dmblanch]
av8or1 Offline

Over the Hill

Registered: 10/18/17
Posts: 1569
Loc: TX
Originally Posted By Dmblanch
you found yourself a very rare LSE! I've never even seen one.

Thank y'all for the pointer! A de-reference showed that I wasn't familiar with the various GMQ option packages; so much so that I had no idea that a center console and shifter were ever installed in that model. And so I schooled myself on it this evening. Huh. So they made them for about 5 years, in (quite) limited number and apparently only for the Canadian market in 2004 (or so the rumor has it). Based on the production numbers I saw, finding this 2001 GMQ LSE is indeed rare. And how. Glad that I took the time to peek inside though, for merely passing it by would have resulted in missing the opportunity to source some rare parts. Learing lesson aside. And some of those parts will definitely come in handy in the near future! Thus the notion of always taking a look can yield dividends! In this case it was a sporty GMQ that I previously never knew existed. Huh, interesting.

Originally Posted By Dmblanch
How were the bucket seats? If they were good, I'd have thought you'd have grabbed them too.

Well the first reason was by the time I came across this LSE critter yesterday, I was headed out of the yard with only an hour prior to closing. Thus it was a-gonna be a sprint to remove the console alone, all other opportunities excluded. Not so much because of the console itself but rather due to the vacuum hoses that ran to the brake actuator and through the firewall. Access is cramped and the associated removal work is fiddly. You don't want to rush through that type of thing too much, else you risk part degradation/breakage in some form or other. And I wanted those hoses because they were still, even after all of these years, in fantastic condition. Thus my focus was solely on that task. Besides the seats had definitely seen better days:


With cheesy seat covers to boot. Finally, druthers being what they are I just don't like the tinsy headrests. For whatever reason. Thus I wouldn't have taken those seats even if they had been in great condition. I'm relatively certain that you could have larger headrests made for these seats, but meh. I recall your story of a trip to one of your local yards for those LTC seats. Good result! Again though, subjectivity at work here, I wouldn't want LTC seats in one of our CVs either. 'Not knocking such choice, merely that it isn't for me. 'Just sayin'. That said, I'm glad that you gave the ones you found a new home.

Well fellas I just couldn't allow myself to leave the cubby behind. So I woke up early, got straight to work so that I could fulfill the daily hour quota and still have time to return to the yard that I visited yesterday. I did all of that and was happy to find the cubby still sitting on the windage tray, driver's side. Apparently I left it there. 'Prolly because one of the yard fellas came by to tell me it was time to pack up. So it slipped my mind because of the distraction. I gotta do better than that! laugh

Anyway while there I noticed another early-2000s GMQ a few doors down. One that I hadn't noticed yesterday. This unit was a 2002 model. While this was not another LSE (shucks!), it did have the vacuum "emergency" parking brake actuator. And all related hoses were present and in good condition. After pulling the dash I was able to get a socket on that third bolt of the parking brake actuator base plate. The dash being out of the way also better facilitated the removal of the aforementioned vacuum hoses. Some time later the actuator was freed. I then returned to yesterday's 2001 GMQ LSE. 'Thought of snagging the rear anti-sway bar (to put on the CVPI, as the LSE has the larger diameter bar) but decided to instead focus on the removal of the shifter cable. Yard closing was quickly approaching. Thus it needed to be one or the other. For me the shifter cable took precedence. Removal of said cable also required the removal of the dash, as the cable runs high along the firewall, near the bottom of the windshield in fact, then back down to a designated grommet in the firewall. So now both of those GMQs have their dash removed! laugh Anyway the shifter cable was taped into position along the way so there would be no means of removing it just by pulling/yanking on it. Nope, the dash has to come out. Finally, the path the cable took was tight quartering, which required you to run it through in the opposite direction by hand simply to make that step in the process do-able. I digress. Soon enough the top half of the cable emerged through the firewall and into the engine bay. I then popped downstairs to complete the process and bring it home. Speaking of that, here was today's bounty:


That should be plenty of vacuum hose to introduce the "vacuum assisted" parking brake into Ol' Blue. And for that alone I was glad that I made the effort to return to the yard today. "One less thing" n-all dontchaknow.

Falling asleep at the keyboard. Gotta run. Y'all take care!


Edited by av8or1 (11/08/21 09:57 PM)
_________________________
2010 CVPI (Former TEXAS Highway Patrol vehicle) POTM April 2020 POTM June 2021 double thumbs
2006 LX Sport air ride delete (2)
2006 F450 SD 6.0L PSD CC LWB flatbed 4x4
1985 Mazda RX7 GSL-SE
1970 Plymouth Road Runner A383 pistol grip tick-tock buckets

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