This is most likely a noob question, but that’s cool, because I am a noob, after all. The previous owner of my 88 had BBK shorty headers installed, and at the same time, apparently disconnected everything attached to the EGR spacer.

With that being the case, and since the car runs like a sewing machine without it connected, would it be feasible to just remove the spacer and bolt the throttle body directly to the intake plenum?

The throttle/transmission line bracket bolts to the EGR spacer.

Best thing to do would just get a block off plate and use one of those EGR sensor foolery devices they sell to get that squared up if you're not trying to get the EGR functional again.

I dont recommend deleting the EGR, here some words of wisdom from my engine tuner from years ago....

Quote:
"you shouldn't run the block-off unless you're either not running EGR or there's an alternate supply for it, because.....the fuel management strategy assumes the presence of a functioning EGR system and you'll get an overly lean part-throttle cruise if you block it off and don't have a chip tune to tell the computer not to...and when you have a lean part-throttle cruise, the EEC picks that information up from the O2 sensors and adds fuel. But it doesn't just add fuel to part-throttle cruise operation, it adds compensating fuel even during open-loop (non-O2-feedback) conditions such as startup, idle, and WOT.

Short story is since the EEC assumes a functioning EGR, and if you haven't instructed it otherwise, you're setting yourself up for rich running and resulting performance/driveability issues by blocking off its flow."

Tell me about alternate EGR provisions? What other setups can be run? I ask because I noticed the supply end of my EGR has a big ole hole in it. I want to run some shorty headers anyway, but I also understand what you're saying about fuel trim compensation, so...wat do?

Keep the EGR valve installed and the position sensor plugged in. You can have the vacuum source disconnected and plugged, no problem.

The system functions as follows: at steady throttle cruise speed, the ECM commands the vacuum control solenoid, that supplies vacuum to the EGR, to open. The ECM monitors the position of the valve with the position sensor that is mounted to the valve. When all is normal and functional: the ECM commands vacuum supply solenoid to open, vacuum is supplied to the EGR diaphragm, EGR valve opens, ECM sees signal voltage from the EGR position sensor change-confirming proper operation, then and ONLY then does the ECM advance the ignition timing.

If the EGR is commanded open and the position sensor does NOT change, then timing is not advanced. The purpose of the system is to increase fuel economy...as exhaust gasses are inert, it allows the advancing of the timing without pinging. When disabled properly, it causes no problems and will NOT cause any lean issues. As for fuel economy, the loss will be negligible, you’ll have a hard time quantifying any loss.

Moral of the story...keep the EGR in place, with its sensor plugged in and you’ll be fine with the vacuum source removed.

Block it off at both ends but leave it plugged in so the ECM doesn't know any better. I can do that. Thanks, Man!