Here is a longwinded post about putting a Tork Tech supercharger kit onto my 06 vic. For those of us (like me) with crappy internet I put lots of the pictures into spoilers. I apologize in advance as I am not the greatest writer, but wanted to share all this info with everyone on here about my project. Enjoy the read, feel free to point out any errors in my build as I am no expert.

Before:



After:





Short and sweet version:

- Bought 2006 P71 for CVN approved $450 CAD
- Did not drive so I fixed it
- Did simple 4.10 gears / 3200 converter / Tune
- Ran for over a year but needed more power
- Installed Tork Tech kit that I've had sitting for 5 years
- Installed ADTR coilers and all of the suspension goodies
- Tuned by Marty/Jeff at MO's
- It is very fun to drive now
- Run it till the engine blows
- Will want more power eventually so throw more money at it until I'm happy with it
- Repeat last 3 steps indefinitely



"Slightly" modified vic… Here's how it all started;

------------Epilogue-------------------------------------------

Already owning 4 cars I wasn't really in the market for another project or car. However when someone jokingly showed me an add saying I should buy it, well, I guess we know how that went. The car was a pile of junk; could hardly run tranny was slipping intensely, was running like junk, and had almost all dash lights lit up like a christmas tree. Every panel on the exterior is scratched/dented. The interior was not terrible. So why did I buy it? Because it was currently registered and only $500. Therefor it wouldn't need any safeties and currently salvage vehicles average $1100+ so it was a no brainer even if I were to part it out.

So I bought it for a CVN approved price of $450. (Canadian mind you; so that's like $134 in American money after exchange rate). Of corse this was at the same time I was rebuilding the garage so it was basically a pile of junk that kept on getting in my way.

Eventually I decided I'd make it run and flip it as the frame it self was pretty rust free. Planned on the simple formula for a fun vic; 4.10 gears, 3200 converter, and tune then sell for a bit of cash. Let's call this "Stage 1" of the build.

Never done a reared before but it honestly was not too bad to do. Got the specs good, on the "tighter" side for new gears so figure they would wear in good (which they have).
Ford Racing 4.10 gears, new Trac-Loc, and aluminum diff cover from an Aero.


Transmissions I've rebuilt 2 so far and this one was by far the worst case scenario for a rebuild. Almost everything for the internals needed to be replaced as it was melted/chipped/broke so I bought a core to use parts from it. Here is some carnage:


I went ahead and added a 300M stub shaft and oiling upgrades in anticipation that (maybe) eventually this car could see some boost.
Rebuilt with Circle D 3200 converter, 300M stub shaft, oiling upgrades, upgraded 08+ sprag, J-Mod, Deep pan, aux oil cooler inline with stock. BIG thanks to none other than 88drandmarq who always helped me out. I always love reading his tranny rebuild posts.

Tuning I went with none other than Marty at Mo's Speed Shop. Seriously if you need any sort of tune he is hands down the go-to guy! Amazing support and very reasonable for what he charges for his expertise on these cars. He even answered me on a Sunday which I still can not thank him enough for.

Once everything was put together I ran the car for over a year and kind of enjoyed it too much to sell. Beat the snot out of it and never gave me an issue. Overall the car was massive amounts more fun to drive, and would recommend anyone who is looking to wake their car up to skip the underdrives/CAI and go straight for gears+tune. Having said that the motor was stock and we all know these could use a little pick-me-up which became very apparent after the gears went in. Luckily I had a solution. Commence "Stage 2" of the build.

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------------Stage 2 - Suspension-----------------------------------

Once the rear end/tranny were well broken in I felt it time to add some boost. Honestly I've had this Tork Tech kit for 5 years now and life just kept on getting in the way of making use of it. Originally it was intended for my second car (the 03 vic) but the frame on that was to rusty so I deemed that car unworthy. Next in line would be the 04 Merc but that car was just is a reliable DD that I planned on flipping shortly after purchase (big surprise I still have it). The 08 too was a solid DD that I didn't really want to mod. Then I picked up the 06 and the tranny had just so happen to be built with boost in mind and it seemed like the perfect fit. On top of that since it was an 05+ DBW I thought it would be an interesting challenge and hopefully helpful to everyone on here to document.

I had set a hard deadline of May 2nd for the car to be complete as that was a weekend of time attack that I felt would be a fun event for a car like this to compete. I've done a handful of events with "Stage 1" (which is a hoot if you ever want to try it). It was a do-able but tight deadline. But since time attack/autocross required conners I felt it might be necessary to rebuilt the front end. But I thought I'd go the extra mile and bug Chris over at ADTR for some goodies...


Yes sir I did the full lot;
ADTR swaybars front/rear
Metco billet control arms
Metco billet watts link and APR watts link stud
ADTR front and rear coil over set
SPC camber bolts
All new BJ/Tie rods/etc and new Motorcraft hubs

Out with the old "Stage 1" suspension setup:

I had upgraded from the stock control arms/watts link by welding 2 together. While it does help somewhat, if you're cheap like me you reuse the old bushings which are (old) and worn out.
A much more worthwhile upgrade is the Metco/Heinous arms. Well worth the money as it really helps plant the rear when it starts to get loose.

In with the new "Stage 2" setup:
Front:


Rear:
I use paint marker to mark off the bolts that I've torqued down. Helps so nothing gets missed.


The difference in sway bar size is quite noticeable;




Now being my car was a 06 it had steel lower control arms. The spacers used for the coilovers are designed for aluminum so I opted to swap them out. One thing that I learned is early 03 cars have a different rear bushing compared to the (late) 04-05 aluminum control arms. Something to make note of if you are swapping yours.

Early 03 aluminum (left) vs steel 06+ arms...The later 03/04/05 aluminum arms studd will be the same as the stud in the steel arm without that "shoulder".






All I can say is WOW! Unbelievable the difference they make in transforming the feel of the car.
Granted, I did everything at once so it's hard to describe the difference from each mod individually, but together, the car is a completely different experience.
Body roll is reduced significantly and overall harshness isn't too bad really. I don't have everything dialled in yet (I have the coilovers cranked to max) but the ride is still what I'd call comfortable.
I'll probably dial a few clicks down and as far as ride hight goes I did around a ½"-¾" drop (or close too). I dont really care about the stance of the car right now, mainly got the coilovers for the performance of them.

Again, BIG thanks to Chris at ADTR for everything. If you can't afford boost then suspension mods are the next best bang/buck mod you can do to these cars to put a big ol' smile on your face.

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------------Tork Tech Kit-------------------------------------------

Here are some of the details of putting on a Tork Tech kit (in no particular order):


Alternator:

The police 200amp alternator is too big to fit so I opted for the 150amp civilian one. Only thing that I changed was used the stud off the police one as it was larger. I played around with the Mark VIII (1st and 2nd gen) ones which gave more clearance to the fan shroud, however, made clearance issues to the cam sensor on the timing cover. In order to make the stock fan shroud fit I shaved a bit of material near the alternator and moved the fan controller to in front of the drivers side wheel well. I opted to use a stock fan shroud and not a Mark VIII or Mustang simply due to availability.





Battery/Cable

Relocated the battery to the other side where the intake normally is. I made a quick bracket that attached to the rad support. A Group 58 (group 59 too large) battery with a 94-04 (I believe) Mustang battery tray fit snug between the rad and washer fluid. I also did the 1/0 wire upgrade and used the stock fusible link for the alternator.

Here is how I routed the battery:
Possitive:
Battery-Furebox (off possitive terminal)
Battery terminal-Bussman terminal two
Bussman terminal one-Alternator
Bussman terminal one-Bussman terminal two using stock fuseable link (from alternator to protect the curcuit)
Bussman terminal two-Starter motor
 
Negative:
Stock ground cable with grounds to the frame, timing cover, and fender.



For the engine harness since there was so much extending/moving wired I just opened up the stock harness, did all the extensions/splices, then wrapped it back up to look factory.
I always use good lead filled solder for all of my wiring connections as I hate push/crimp connectors.
It's an easy skill to learn and a good solder joint (done properly) is just as strong as the wire itself. Not to mention it's nicer to lay in the harness

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------------Tork Tech Kit (Continued)--------------------------------


Belts/Front Crossbrace:

With the kit you have 2 belts; one for the main accessories (6 rib), and the other belt which piggybacks off the crank and is on a separate tensioner for the blower (8 rib). Had no info on belt lengths so did the old measure with a string and buy 3 belts at a time to try.
Changing the main drive belt is now a pain, easiest way (for me) is to take off the whole front crossbrace with the alternator attached to it. The crossbrace is basically held on with 3 bolts; 2 go through the head, the other in the block near the water pump.
Make sure you use the CORRECT length bolts! My kit being used I just assumed they were correct size bolts but I was mistaken. I had the one strip out as I was torquing it for final assembly as it was only being held by 3 threads. Luckily the heads being aluminum I just drilled and tapped a larger size easily.
The third bolt uses a puny sleeve that collapsed as I was tightening it. Solution is a small piece of pipe I had laying around.

The second belt is 8 rib and gets piggybacked off the crank with a "cheap"ish aluminum pulley. Not the biggest fan of it but it appears to get the job done.
Belt wrap on the second belt seems good, havnt had much belt slip in the short while I've been driving it. The Billetflow upper might help with that.
Originally the (used) blower came with a 2.76 but it is also ported so to play it safe I got a 3.10 upper. Not a fan of the red but like everything it was used (notice a pattern in my build yet?).
The tensioned is off a 05-10 Mustang but with a 8 ribbed pulley. It is NOT from a 99-04 F150 with the 4.6 as it does look the same however rotates the opposite way.

6 rib belt # 4060937

8 rib belt # K080547


Timing cover bolt - There is one bolt (by the power steering pump) that you must grind down to clear the new belt routing. Rather than grind down the stock one and not ever be able to remove it again, I opted to swap for a countersunk hex bolt. I used a M8x65mm which worked perfect.
Don't forget to do this otherwise the bolt will hit the belt and eventually shred it.





Power Steering:

Stock cooler took up too much space so I swapped it for a smaller Hayden cooler. Nothing fancy. Has the same effective cooling area but in a smaller package.



Catch Can/PVC System:
Highly recommended that you run a catch can with a blower. Ideally it would be mounted lower tucked away into the fender for the oil vapours to cool off and collect, but, where I have is is better than nothing. Just went with one of those cheap Ebay ones which actually is pretty nice for $30. Only thing to factor is for hose size I went with a ⅝" and the catch can only came with ¼" fittings. For the PVC fittings on the valve covers you can either cut the stock ones, or I bought some from 90 degree ones from UPR when I got the fuel rails. They were on clearance and fit a ⅝" hose. For removing the stock ones from the moulded line I cut a shallow slit then used a heat gun and pulled out the line which worked really well and cost nothing.


Routing:
- Intake tube (pre throttle body)
- Drivers side cam cover
- Passenger side valve cover (has the heater element on it)
- Inlet of catch can
- Outlet of catch can
- Bottom port of blower


Vacuum Line Routing
For some reason I struggled with this more than I should have. But it is actually quite simple; there are 3 ports on the back of the M112 a ⅝" for PVC and 2 ⅜" ports. One goes to the stock EVAP/AC/Stock line (that used to go on the rear of the throttle body closest to the wiper tray). The other you can T off and reduce the line size which will go to the (top) fort of the boost bypass actuator (¼"), FRPS (¼"), and the boost gauge (¼").



Cooling system:
For hoses I re-used the stock upper rad hose (trimmed a bit to fit) and trimmed the hose crossover to make it fit under the snout of the blower.
One thing that irks me about this kit it the ugly coolant hoses/thermostat just front and center. I didn't have time to make a fancy crossover but might eventually.
I'm also running a Stant 180 deg thermostat with 40/60 mix of Motorcraft gold coolant.
Also while everything is apart now is a great time to change the water pump or just the gasket.




The intercooler is on a completely separate system and is routed as such;
Tank - Pump - intercooler - Intake intercooler - Tank
 
The (used) Tork Tech kit I got came with an already upgraded intercooler which fits alright. I opted to upgrade further to a (used) GT500 intercooler with dual fans for when I run at the tack back-back runs to keep the IATs lower. I ran 2 relays for the fans and used circuit # 302 which goes to fuse #113 a 40amp fuse (perfect as the fans used 20amp fuses each).
The GT500 intercooler fits nice even with the fans once you do a few things;
- Relocate the horn (I put them on the crash bumper so I didn't have to extend the wiring)
- Move the Crash sensors on both sides
- Trim a bit off the inner header panel
- Hood latch/striker fit perfectly
Too the fitting locations for the coolant lines are not the most ideal on the intercooler but generic coolant hose is cheap.
Now unfortunately there is a pinhole in the GT500 one so I need to fix it, currently I'm running the "original" intercooler.


For hose I just bought 14' of generic 5/8" coolant hose
I just have a stock 03/04 Cobra intercooler pump but when that dies a good upgrade is a GT500 pump apparently.  
The tank came with my used kit, all aluminum with some black paint on it. Little better looking than the 02- Coolant tanks I think.


On the intercooler in the manifold (engine valley) it's important to swap out the O-Rings as they get old and brittle due to heat soak. I used McMaster Carr # 8297T174 (3/32-115 Viton O-Ring).
I wired the intercooler pumps/fans using 2 relays and tapped power from fuse #   for key on power. I also have it wired to a switch on the gauge panel to run while the vehicle is off for in between passes.
 


Hood clearance:

Trimming of the hood cross brace is required. Just be careful you don't cut through the hood itself. I used a cutoff wheel (protect your glass!!) and tin snips.


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------------Tork Tech Kit (Continued)--------------------------------


Blower:
Ported M112 with a Billetflow 3.10 pulley. Suposedly rebuilt not too long ago and looks it.
I changed the oil just for kicks, was about time to anyways. I also used the GM oil not the Ford stuff as it was 2x the cost for the same junk.



Gaskets:
While you're down there and everything is torn apart dont skimp out and replace all of the gaskets with fresh ones. It's a pain to remove everything once it's all together.
I opted to replace:
- Water pump gasket (pump itself was still good)
- Intake manifold to head gaskets (a no brainer)
- Lower Tork Tech manifold to blower gasket - this one can be reued, but, it's cheap insurance to put in a new one Felpro MS96110
- Blower to intake elbow gasket - Felpro # 61202
- Intake charge temp sensor Motorcraft # DY1159
- Manifold coolant temp sensor NTK # EF0103 (I believe you can find these on the 02- Vics)


 
Air Intake:
Originally I had planned on doing something similar to the Trillogy kits where the intake crosses overtop the blower so I would not have to relocate the battery.
I learned that those use an M112 with a different case (rear feed vs the side feed) so there wasn't enough room to do it effectively with the stock hood.
Since this is an 05+ it has DBW (electronic throttle) the stock 03/04 cobra throttle body would not work. I figured it would be best to use a stock 05-10 Mustang (3v) twin bore TB but found a "used" (it was never used) GT500 twin bore (62mm I believe) TB.
Benefit of using those that the TPS and DBW are the same plugs as the vic so all I had to do was extend the wires (and the cruise works too!).
Because the GT500 TB is so quite larger than the Cobra TB it would be quite challenging to adapt it to the Cobra elbow, so I opted to just make my own.

Nothing fancy really, make 2 templates for the blower outlet and the GT500 TB, roughly figure out how far out you want it, and for ease of fabrication I just put them at 90 degrees from each other.
Again, I had a tight deadline so none of my brackets were painted and are rather "rough". This is a go car not a show car!



Once I had the elbow made I had a rough idea of where to route the intake, I used a JLT real carbon fiber 5" intake (too fancy for this car, but was used and cheap) stepped down to a 4" SCT 2400 MAF housing and K&N filter (that came with my used Tork Tech kit).
Routed it to draw air from in the fender which seems to work well.


 
For wiring the MAF I cut off the connector then took the 2 wires (pin 1 grey & 2 grey/red) from the stock MAF and wire it into the Lightning IAT sensor.
I bought a new sensor but was too cheap to buy the plug for it. So I just got one that was close (one for the EVAP I believe) off a junkyard car and filed the ridge off the sensor so the connector would go on.
The SCT MAF uses the older style MAF plug so I grabbed one off a junkyard car too. Extend and wrap the wires around as per the stock pinout.



Exhaust:

For a complete breakdown of the exhaust I already did a writeup on that whcih can be found here. I took it off the 03 and put it onto the 06 as it was much more deserving. Currently I have the tail pipes off as I'm making tweaks to make it fit better. I never did an exhaust before so there was some slight rubbing on the watts link the first go round. Though it does sound pretty mean with dumps!

If I recall, it was about half of the studs came out no problem. I had much more access as I did them while I had the whole front end apart. Best advise would be to do whatever possible to remove the nuts so the manifold can come off. From there you have a lot more room to weld a nut on and extract the stud. Also running a tap through the holes is a must!

Exhaust gaskets - Mahle # MS19535 are the ONLY gasket you should use. They are the exact same as the OEM multi-layered ones.

- EGR delete
- SW headers
- 3" high flow Magnaflow cats
- 2.5" with X pipe
- Magnaflow 18" mufflers
- 3" exhaust tips
- Lokar oil dipstick to help clear headers

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------------Tork Tech Kit (Continued)--------------------------------


Interior:

Didn't really do much with the interior. Patched the holes in the passenger side floor (not fun) and added some carpet (best mod ever) for sound deadening.
I'm not a fan of the 3 gauge A-pillar pod so I quick made my own gauge panel. Nothing fancy, just a scrap piece of gauge and some quick layout. For the holes I used a 2" hole saw which worked perfect (after a quick file) to fit the gauges.
I had everything cut out nice but decided last minute to add a clock since the one in the radio doesn't work. Managed to squeeze it in at the bottom.
For powering the gauges I just used some of the aux police feeds found under the glovebox. 
To support the gauge panel I welded a piece of flatbar to the floor and have another piece bolted on from the drivers footwell. It's pretty solid no rattling.
The flatbar welded to the floor is also where I drilled/tapped some holes to mount the fire extinguisher in between the seats. It fits between the seats perfectly and is much easier to get at rather than under the passenger seat. Also bought one of those fancy H3R ones that doesn't leave chemical gunk everywhere; expensive but worth it if I ever have to use it.


Gauges:
- AEM 30-0300 wideband
- Prosport electorinic boost gauge
- Prosport electronic fuel pressure gauge
- Autometer battery gauge
- Autometer oil pressure gauge
- Autometer water temp gauge
- Scangauge II

The AEM wideband is nice and was recommended by Martin.
The Autometer gauges I got used for cheap otherwise I'd run without them.
The Prosport gauges are kind of junky; you get what you pay for. IE the button on the boost gauge doesn't really work good out of box and needles are slightly off on both.
Scangauge I use mainly for tranny fluid temp and fuel economy; nice unit, would recommend.



Tuning:

None other than Jeff and Martin over at Mo's Speed Shop. Even though I have some dyno shops relatively close with good reputations I went straight for the Panther experts! Too their prices are very reasonable too for the amount of service you get. Seriously, I can not thank these two fine gentlemen enough. As I was acquiring parts/planning the supercharger build I'd always be bugging Martin about recommendations and he would always answer my questions. As earlier stated my first tune was just a generic 4.10 gears/3200 converter/93 octane and WOW was it ever good. Overall it was a quick easy process and I can not recommend it enough!

My second tune with the blower was a little more complicated (naturally). For those who are not familiar with remote tuning and/or tech savvy (like me) fear not! These guys make the whole process a breeze. Basically we went back and forth for a solid week between my work schedule and time zone difference diagnosing and troubleshooting little problems that came up. They were extremely patient with (to me at least) all of the small dumb stuff that prevented us from actually starting to tune. Once things got sorted and we were actually able to get some good runs Jeff had it dialed in in no time.

As of now there are a few small things that need to be tweaked as I have not racked up the miles on it, but overall it runs really great. Which in a way surprises me how drivable the car is. In traffic it drives very well mannered and smooth. I thought it would be a bit more "temperamental" in a way? But I'm not complaining just shows how incredible the tuning is even with the DBW. Another plus, is that cruise control works! Though once you push in a bit and get past 3k then the real fun begins! The car wants to be driven hard and speeding is now very, very, very easy to do. Around here (compared to you folks south of the border) the speed limits here are very slow. I hope not to get into too much trouble with this car...

Again, can not stress it enough; if you have a Panther with any tuning needs do it right the first time and give the folks at Mo's Speed Shop a call!

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------------Tork Tech Kit (Continued)--------------------------------


Fuel is one of the more annoying/challenging parts of this project.


Quick rundown of the fuel system:

- Single Areomotive 340 fuel pump
- 10ga wire to the pump
- BAP wired from battery
- Fore 26mm fuel injector spacer
- 42lb greentop injectors
- UPR 05-10 Mustang fuel rail
- Professional Products 54181 (Ford fuel line quick connect - ⅜ NPT)
- Custom fuel rail adaptors

Ideally a 2 pump system would be much better if you plan on making more boost or even just to have a safety cushion. From my research my setup will be just fine for the amount of power I'm making (400hp as a guess as I've a bone stock engine).



Working from the tank back is the easy part;
Larger fuel pump, bigger wiring, BAP.
For the wiring upgrade I originally got the Racetronix harness that everyone raved about, but wasn't too impressed myself. The gauge and quality of the wire was great, but the connector mounting to tank I didn't really like. So I did my own;
Used fitting #7807K94 from McMaster Carr, then ran 10ga all the way through the bulkhead in the trunk to the BAP as done on a fantastic writeup over on MM.net to keep the shut off switch operative. To power the BAP I ran 8ga wire from the rear police trunk feed (handy place if you have it) with an inline fuse. I also did the fuel pump first before tearing everything apart to make sure I wired it correctly and it would prime and such.




Where it gets "tricky" is upfront;
05+ cars have just 1 fuel rail crossover which interfered with the blower. Older rails have 2 crossovers with slightly different bends that "could" possibly make work but then you'd loose the FRPS. I cut the crossover off a rail to see what size hose and it's a goofy size (3/16" if I recall correctly) that I could not get FUEL INJECTION SAE J30R9 rated hose; very important as regular "fuel line hose" will not hold up the the pressures (so I'm told). So either cut off the stock barbs and braze/weld on new fittings or get aftermarket rails. For the hassle and not wanting a crack in my fuel rails I opted for aftermarket rails. Plus I would have to splice in the crossover for the fuel pressure gauge which meant more fittings/more chances of leaks.



From the main fuel line to the Ford 9/16" quick disconnect you have two option; cut it off and figure it out, or keep it and use Professional Products 54181. It is overpriced for what it is, but so are AN fittings.



From there it went on to UPR 05-10 fuel rails. I chose them because they were the cheapest I could find. Quality on them was good, just double check there are no burrs and I gave the edges a quick plane as they were pretty sharp. I opted for the 05-10 Mustang rails vs the 99-04 was the later have a spot for the FRPS (Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor) which is important.
I also opted to have the FRPS on the drivers side as there is not much room with the intake. On the same side there were 2 ports so I stuck a gauge (because racer) and I have my sensor for the fuel pressure gauge. The crossover between the two fuel rails is the J30R9 hose. The other fittings/plug on the rails are just generic ⅜" NPT brass fittings.


Now using the 05-10 rails you will encounter a 2nd problem; the mounting holes are different than 99-04 mustangs/crown vices. Shocking, but I should've figured that out that 3v and 2v have different intake manifolds. So some quick angle iron brackets with some bolts welded on and spacers do the trick nicely.



Finally, you will encounter a 3rd problem using these aftermarket rails being the coil packs will hit them before they seat onto the injector. No matter if you shave some material off the COP and rail (though I wouldn't recommend shaving off material from the fuel rail) they wont fit. Easiest solution is from Fore Innovations with their fuel rail spacers. On my setup I think you could get away with a 12-14mm but I just said heck to it and ordered the largest ones for max clearance 26mm. They are a nice piece of machined aluminum with a very well fitting O-RIng.


I also learned that there are "short" and "long" style injectors; originally I was going to use some 52lb off a 13-14 GT500 but those are the "short" style (12mm shorter than stock I believe). So I opted to use some tired and true 42lb greentops that I had. They were cleaned not long ago and I slapped on some new O-Rings for preventative maintenance. Of corse I need to run EV1 - EV6 adaptors as I didn't feel like splicing connectors onto the stock harness (laziness really). Or if you want to splurge a set of Ford Racing LU47 would work great as they are the "long" style and have the EV6 connector.


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------------Tork Tech Kit Synopsis--------------------------------

Overall I am very happy with the build. It is a very fun "sleeper" and still has amenities such as AC and cruise. It's been a long time coming (as stated, I've sat on this Tork Teck kit for almost 5 years!) but well worth the wait. I've already had ideas for "Stage 3" but will drive it for a year or two before tearing into it again. Hopefully this info is useful for some people or hopefully you enjoyed the (longwinded) read.

Make no mistake though, newer mustangs/camaros will still probably beat it on the strip but I never made it to be the fastest out there. Once I drive it more I'll take it to the strip to get some times, I'm hoping for mid 13s. With "Stage 1" and my crappy reaction time I was getting a constant 14.9s and ran a stock vic which was around 15.6 if I recall correctly.

Too I should say sorry for the lack of pictures in some areas (such as interior). I was lucky enough to backup my phone with most of my build photos before it went kaput. I'm hoping to get it fixed and add more photos and video which I'm sure one or two of you may want...
Plus there are some details which I've left out such as brakes, wheels and tires for good reason... so stay tuned!


Pros:
- Torque everywhere instantly
- Driveability is awesome
- Might as well call it the giggle machine as that's all it makes me do

Cons:
- No blower whine that I can hear. Was honestly one of the main reasons I built this thing.
- Spark plug/water pump changes are no longer 10 minute jobs.
- Everyone asks if I watch Cleatus



Here is a generic mod list (in no particular order) for this car:

- 2006 Ford Crown Victoria P71
- Stock motor
- Tork Tech shupercharger kit with ported M112 and 3.10 Billetflow pulley

- Single Areomotive 340 fuel pump
- 10ga wire to the pump
- BAP wired from battery
- Fore 26mm fuel injector spacer
- 42lb greentop injectors
- UPR 05-10 Mustang fuel rail
- Professional Products 54181 (Ford fuel line quick connect - ⅜ NPT)
- Custom fuel rail adaptors

- GT500 Intercooler with dual fans
- Custom blower to throttle body elbow
- Twin bore GT500 throttle body
- GT500 JLT carbon fiber 5" air intake
- SCT BA2400
- Group 58 Battery with mustang tray
- 1/0 wiring upgrade
- Ebay catch can

- EGR delete
- SW headers
- 3" high flow Magnaflow cats
- 2.5" with X pipe
- Magnaflow 18" mufflers
- 3" exhaust tips
- Lokar oil dipstick

- Rebuilt (by me) transmission with J-Mod
- Circle D 3200 stall single disc converter
- 300M stub shaft
- Internal oiling upgrades
- 08+ one way sprag roller
- Forced lube tail shaft mod
- Deep dish trans pan
- Hayden aux oil cooler

- Rebuilt (by me) rear end
- 4.10 Ford Racing gears
- New Ford Racing Trac Loc
- Areo aluminum diff cover
- Driveshaft safety loop

- ADTR swaybars front/rear
- Heim joint for swaybar endlinks
- Metco billet control arms
- Metco billet watts link and APR watts link stud
- ADTR front and rear coil over set
- SPC camber bolts
- MOOG ball joints
- MOOG inner/outer tie rod ends
- Motorcraft front hub assemblies

- Custom gauge pannel (by me)
- AEM 30-0300 wideband
- Prosport electorinic boost gauge
- Prosport electronic fuel pressure gauge
- Autometer battery gauge
- Autometer oil pressure gauge
- Autometer water temp gauge
- Scangauge II
- H3R fire extinguisher


--------------------fin--------------------------------

Awesome work!

Nice!!!

wow that was a lot of info to cover and write :)thanks for sharing this with us . I bet the car must be freaking awesome to drive !

I only have one thing to say: If we weren't at opposite ends of North America, I would be honoured to have you work on my car.

I love this thread. So glad there's an aftermarket for these cars. Maybe I see this one around next time! Are those the headers you got in Colorado?

Fantastic write up!

pretty much what i plan on doing with my '11. great write up.