------------Tork Tech Kit (Continued)--------------------------------
With the kit you have 2 belts; one for the main accessories (6 rib), and the other belt which piggybacks off the crank and is on a separate tensioner for the blower (8 rib). Had no info on belt lengths so did the old measure with a string and buy 3 belts at a time to try.
Changing the main drive belt is now a pain, easiest way (for me) is to take off the whole front crossbrace with the alternator attached to it. The crossbrace is basically held on with 3 bolts; 2 go through the head, the other in the block near the water pump.
Make sure you use the CORRECT length bolts! My kit being used I just assumed they were correct size bolts but I was mistaken. I had the one strip out as I was torquing it for final assembly as it was only being held by 3 threads. Luckily the heads being aluminum I just drilled and tapped a larger size easily.
The third bolt uses a puny sleeve that collapsed as I was tightening it. Solution is a small piece of pipe I had laying around.
The second belt is 8 rib and gets piggybacked off the crank with a "cheap"ish aluminum pulley. Not the biggest fan of it but it appears to get the job done.
Belt wrap on the second belt seems good, havnt had much belt slip in the short while I've been driving it. The Billetflow upper might help with that.
Originally the (used) blower came with a 2.76 but it is also ported so to play it safe I got a 3.10 upper. Not a fan of the red but like everything it was used (notice a pattern in my build yet?).
The tensioned is off a 05-10 Mustang but with a 8 ribbed pulley. It is NOT from a 99-04 F150 with the 4.6 as it does look the same however rotates the opposite way.
6 rib belt # 4060937
8 rib belt # K080547
Timing cover bolt - There is one bolt (by the power steering pump) that you must grind down to clear the new belt routing. Rather than grind down the stock one and not ever be able to remove it again, I opted to swap for a countersunk hex bolt. I used a M8x65mm which worked perfect.
Don't forget to do this otherwise the bolt will hit the belt and eventually shred it.
Picture of ground down bolt
Stock cooler took up too much space so I swapped it for a smaller Hayden cooler. Nothing fancy. Has the same effective cooling area but in a smaller package.
Catch Can/PVC System:
Highly recommended that you run a catch can with a blower. Ideally it would be mounted lower tucked away into the fender for the oil vapours to cool off and collect, but, where I have is is better than nothing. Just went with one of those cheap Ebay ones which actually is pretty nice for $30. Only thing to factor is for hose size I went with a ⅝" and the catch can only came with ¼" fittings. For the PVC fittings on the valve covers you can either cut the stock ones, or I bought some from 90 degree ones from UPR when I got the fuel rails. They were on clearance and fit a ⅝" hose. For removing the stock ones from the moulded line I cut a shallow slit then used a heat gun and pulled out the line which worked really well and cost nothing.
- Intake tube (pre throttle body)
- Drivers side cam cover
- Passenger side valve cover (has the heater element on it)
- Inlet of catch can
- Outlet of catch can
- Bottom port of blower
Vacuum Line Routing
For some reason I struggled with this more than I should have. But it is actually quite simple; there are 3 ports on the back of the M112 a ⅝" for PVC and 2 ⅜" ports. One goes to the stock EVAP/AC/Stock line (that used to go on the rear of the throttle body closest to the wiper tray). The other you can T off and reduce the line size which will go to the (top) fort of the boost bypass actuator (¼"), FRPS (¼"), and the boost gauge (¼").
For hoses I re-used the stock upper rad hose (trimmed a bit to fit) and trimmed the hose crossover to make it fit under the snout of the blower.
One thing that irks me about this kit it the ugly coolant hoses/thermostat just front and center. I didn't have time to make a fancy crossover but might eventually.
I'm also running a Stant 180 deg thermostat with 40/60 mix of Motorcraft gold coolant.
Also while everything is apart now is a great time to change the water pump or just the gasket.
Too the hard line in the intake valley will hit the lower manifold.
I got some high temp silicone (expensive) hose.
The intercooler is on a completely separate system and is routed as such;
Tank - Pump - intercooler - Intake intercooler - Tank
The (used) Tork Tech kit I got came with an already upgraded intercooler which fits alright. I opted to upgrade further to a (used) GT500 intercooler with dual fans for when I run at the tack back-back runs to keep the IATs lower. I ran 2 relays for the fans and used circuit # 302 which goes to fuse #113 a 40amp fuse (perfect as the fans used 20amp fuses each).
The GT500 intercooler fits nice even with the fans once you do a few things;
- Relocate the horn (I put them on the crash bumper so I didn't have to extend the wiring)
- Move the Crash sensors on both sides
- Trim a bit off the inner header panel
- Hood latch/striker fit perfectly
Too the fitting locations for the coolant lines are not the most ideal on the intercooler but generic coolant hose is cheap.
Now unfortunately there is a pinhole in the GT500 one so I need to fix it, currently I'm running the "original" intercooler.
Move those crash sensors and move the horn
Made some quick brackets. For isolating the intercooler I used the rubber bushings with threads in them that hold down the stock air intake box.
Trim the stock cover and bam looks like factory
A little "showy" for my taste, if I have time I'd paint it black to hide it better
For hose I just bought 14' of generic 5/8" coolant hose
I just have a stock 03/04 Cobra intercooler pump but when that dies a good upgrade is a GT500 pump apparently.
The tank came with my used kit, all aluminum with some black paint on it. Little better looking than the 02- Coolant tanks I think.
On the intercooler in the manifold (engine valley) it's important to swap out the O-Rings as they get old and brittle due to heat soak. I used McMaster Carr # 8297T174 (3/32-115 Viton O-Ring).
I wired the intercooler pumps/fans using 2 relays and tapped power from fuse # for key on power. I also have it wired to a switch on the gauge panel to run while the vehicle is off for in between passes.
Trimming of the hood cross brace is required. Just be careful you don't cut through the hood itself. I used a cutoff wheel (protect your glass!!) and tin snips.
Stock hood will not fit with blower
Cut it to the shape of…a rocketship?
Stock crossbrace in the way
Fits nicely with room for the throttlebody and elbow