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#403641 - 03/22/04 04:13 PM Tips for drilling out rivets on window regulator

My front passenger-side window regulator took a dive a little while back and needs to be replaced. It looks like the little metal wire that pulls the window up got snaged on something because it was completely mangled (almost to the point of snapping) and ripped off the sliding part of the regulator. I've never drilled out rivets before and am a little concerned about possibly breaking the window glass. What is the best way to drill them out? Also, does anyone know what size nuts and bolts I should get to attach the new regulator to the window?


#403642 - 03/22/04 04:42 PM Re: Tips for drilling out rivets on window regulat
John_M Offline

Registered: 02/06/02
Posts: 480
Pick a drill bit that's the same size as the center part of the rivet. When you've drilled through, wallow out the rivet until it falls apart.

Someone has a full how-to on this because I printed it a couple of years ago when I did it on my 93. Unfortunately the reman units I got on ebay (the same ones everybody else picks) are crapping out now. I guess the next ones will be OEM.

[b]John M - [ Website - SOLD <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> ] --- [ 94 Stealth twin turbo - SOLD <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> ]
05 Subaru Legacy GT

#403643 - 03/22/04 05:07 PM Re: Tips for drilling out rivets on window regulat
Mr_pogo Offline
Over the Hill

Registered: 07/14/01
Posts: 1601
I used a air die grinder with a cutoff wheel on the rivets, replaced with 1/4" bolts, washers and nuts. Possibly a dremel would work also.
Use either loctite or locknuts on the 2 going thru the glass and be careful not to overtighten.

#403644 - 03/22/04 05:18 PM Re: Tips for drilling out rivets on window regulat
Dan The Vic Man Offline

Registered: 11/22/03
Posts: 9890
Loc: Coon Rapids MN
At work 10mm bolts seem to work good. Have someone hold the window while you are doing this process it will help alot when you are replacing the regulator. Mr pogo is correct about the grinder cutoff wheel that works the best on this project just be carefull when doing this and you shall be fine.
2012 Ford F150 Ecoboost

1998 mercury Grand Marquis, 58k miles slower than a turtle stock as stock gets


#403645 - 03/22/04 05:19 PM Re: Tips for drilling out rivets on window regulat
Scooterman Offline

Registered: 10/01/02
Posts: 557
Is the motor to blame for slow up/down movement of the window? Are these motors inexpensive?
*recently known as 'ufoforever'

'92 CV P74 <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/can.gif" alt="" /> Autolamps. Premium Sound w/ Pioneer Deck, Rockford 6x9 Pioneer 6x8. 140k miles. Power Doors, Windows, Seats. Digital Dash. Bastard Block w/ AOD and clunky TC. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> 99' Steering Gear. ENS sway bushings <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />. New paint,but peeled about a year later >:|. Super 40 Flowmaster Muffler (Sounds best in cold weather). Heater Core Replaced (Darn the top plenum bolt!).

Current Project: Bleed ABS to fix brake pull

Repairs Pending: front-end links, thermo clutch fan, replace tensioner assembly, replace inefficient alternator, 1 tierod, idler arm, upper and lower control arm bushings, new freeze plugs, and thats about it <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />.

#403646 - 03/22/04 05:19 PM Re: Tips for drilling out rivets on window regulat
Brett C. Cammack Offline
Over the Hill

Registered: 08/01/03
Posts: 4063
Pop rivets, right? I just use a big bit and drill just deep enough to cut the head off. Then I drive out the remaining body with a pin punch, or, in pinch, a Phillips screwdriver I'm not overly fond of.
Annoy a Conservative - Think for yourself.

#403647 - 03/22/04 07:42 PM Re: Tips for drilling out rivets on window regulat
ssxty8 Offline

Registered: 07/28/03
Posts: 428
Loc: PR
When using a drill to remove the rivet, make sure you first drive the center pin out with a center punch, or something the same dia. as the pin. It's in the center of the instaled rivet and it will make drilling a pain in the neck. Use a 1/4" dia. drill and you'll be fine, but you might need to hold the rivet's body with pliers, cause sometimes they want to turn, stopping the drilling action. IMO, It's easier than what it looks. Good Luck
1992 Grand Marquis, 360 tinted glass, Hi/Lo Sylvania Silverstar headlamps w/home made 4ea. relay harness, smoked tail lamps and center panel, 1.5" rear spacers on original wheels with painted center spokes, Accel cool blue air filter and retrofitted dual exhaust, with original type mufflers, KYB monotube Gas-A-Just. Retrofitted TCC & A/C clutch ON/OFF switches. Wish list for the future, better fr. & rr sway bars, and poly bushings wherever possible. Much more than 300K/miles, & surprising MPG.

#403648 - 03/22/04 07:47 PM Re: Tips for drilling out rivets on window regulat
93_Marquis Offline
Over the Hill

Registered: 11/29/00
Posts: 2277
Loc: Norwood, OH, USA
Ford uses a what they term a "Blingd" rivet. I know it's not a standard pop rivet, but getting them out isn't bad.

Use a center punch to knock out the center of the rivet. Then use a 1/4" drill bit to remove the remainder of the rivet. You'll want to get 2ea. 1/4"-3/4" long & 1/4"-1" long bolts, 8ea. 1/4" flat washers, & 4ea. nuts. I used nylon lock nuts to keep everything from loosing up.

Take your time and be careful when punching and drilling the rivets that hold the window glass to the regulator. Don't want to have to buy a new window too.


Car: 2004 Mercury Marauder

Engine/Tranny: 49k and bone stock...for now wink

#403649 - 03/22/04 11:25 PM Re: Tips for drilling out rivets on window regulat
John_M Offline

Registered: 02/06/02
Posts: 480
Here's the instructions I saved - the date on my file was June 2001.

1. Take off door panel, it comes off with the two screws on the right side, the 4 on the front(one holds the border on mine, i don't know if it's the same on
everyone elses, underneath the border are three gold screw), the 2 on the left side, and the one on the door latch, remove the door latch plate, it's
pretty easy just push to the right first then pulled toward you.

2. Take off the door panel, pull up on it from the door handle, it should slide up, wriggle it a little if it's stuck on something.

Now you've got to the hard part

1. There's a plastic water cover. Cut a slit in it, to access the assembly area.

2. There are two screws that connect the glass to the rail on the regulator assembly. Find those, they should be wherever the regulator was last, ie. if the
window got stuck in the middle, it'll be in the middle, at the top, they'll be at the top. For best working conditions, try to get the window in the middle.
The entire assembly is in the middle so do not mess with the outside bolts unless you wanna make it a little harder on yourself.

3. Once you've got those both unbolted, take vice grips, put something to pad the teeth, and keep the window in the middle. I ghetto rigged mine with a
hammer by putting it in the inside of the assembly area, and got the window to stay somewhere in the middle.

4. There are 9 bolts in the assembly in total, 3 go onto the motor, 4 go on the railing, and the other 2 you've already taken off the window.

5. There's a place for one of the hooks that the door panel goes into. it's in the center again, and it's close to the bottom. There are 3 bolts that
surround it, they're all the same size, and if you have the replacement motor already, they're shaped in the same pattern. Remove all those and note
that the motor will not fall yet.

6. The motor has the switch cables still attached, follow the calbes into the inside of the assembly area. It'll lead to the clip, and there just push down
on the clip and pull back, it might be a little tricky.

7. Motor's still attached to a little black clip attached to the door. Just pound out with a hammer or be graceful with some pliers, i just brute force hit it

8. Now the four rail bolts, are easy, just like the motor, they're on the same area as the new one. Two up top and two at the bottom, the two at the
bottom are almost totally adjacent to the bolts for the motor, and just follow the rail to get the other two at the top.

9. To remove, the assembly, just pull it out of the hole in the plastic, if you need to make the hole bigger do so. I do suggest that you get a new plastic
cover, cuz it is good for the door panel.

Voila! Assembly Out. Now just do the opposite to get the assembly back in, though put the bolts that attach the motor assembly first, then do the
railing to the window in first, it makes manuevering a lot easier.
[b]John M - [ Website - SOLD <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> ] --- [ 94 Stealth twin turbo - SOLD <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> ]
05 Subaru Legacy GT


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