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#4037834 - 11/25/19 04:37 PM New from Utah
67Comet Offline
n00b

Registered: 11/20/19
Posts: 26
Loc: Utah
Hello,

Looking forward to years ahead driving a MCM or CV.

I've been looking hard for my project. I have lofty goals, but my "67 Mercury Comet is pretty much to bed for the winter, and mostly done.

Looking for a less than 100K mile Panther, for 3K or less. I've been trying to figure out what years are best for the manual transmission swap (Haven't ordered that yet, because I don't know what year to look for).

Thanks for allowing me in, and it should be a fun ride.
_________________________
2005 Crown Vic LX
T45 Manual Swapped ADTR Kit (T45 from a 2000 SVT Mustang)
4:10 Ford Performance Rear Gears
Mo's Speed Shop Tune
ADTR Sway Bars Front and Rear
Moog End Links
Moog Left and Right Upper Control Arms/Ball Joints
KYB Rear Shocks (555603 Gas-a-Just)
Moog CC865 Rear Springs (Bout to change to Moog CC501)
Moog Rubber Bits all around
CHE Performance Upper/Lower Control Arms & Watts Link
E-Bay front struts & springs

Top
#4037848 - 11/25/19 06:31 PM Re: New from Utah [Re: 67Comet]
Dmblanch Offline
Member

Registered: 11/13/19
Posts: 447
Loc: Utah
The man from Springville again.

I have two thoughts on your intended project.

1) I'm thinking the older model panthers BEFORE the aluminum driveshaft might be easier to fit a manual tranny to. I don't know when they made the switch to the Alu driveshaft in the Vics and the Town Cars was, but before 10-11.

2) Ditto with wheels. Here in UT you need two sets of tires for the winter roads and the 225/60r16 are cheaper and easier to find than the 235/55r17's on the 2005 and up. (That said, the older Vic's are the ones with the manifold problems.) I have the cop Goodyear Eagles for the summer then I run 4 studded snow tires and a 100 pounds of sand in the trunk for the winter.
_________________________

1) 2002 White P71 - 89K miles. 2) 2003 B&W P71 - 74K. 3) & 6) & 11) 2005 White P71 - 54K, 74k, 115K. 4) 2011 Black P7B - 79K. 5) 2008 White P71 - 95k. 7) 2004 Silver P71 - 104K. 8) 2004 Toreador Red LX Sport - 111K. 9) & 10) 2010 White P7B SAP - 104K & 106K. 12) 2006 White P71 - scrapped. 13) 2007 Tungsten LX Sport - 125k. 14) 2006 White MGM LS Premium - 93k.

Top
#4038010 - 11/27/19 07:48 AM Re: New from Utah [Re: Dmblanch]
67Comet Offline
n00b

Registered: 11/20/19
Posts: 26
Loc: Utah
Hello,

Last night I purchased a 2005 Crown Vic LX in Murray. 86,000 miles on the speedo.

Drove it home to Ogden (about 42 miles), and it was very quiet, smooth, and felt great.

The Battery/Alternator light comes on after a few seconds of idle. And the Brake light comes on when stopping (looks like new pads, but I think the fluid is probably just low). As far as the battery light. The seller said it probably needed a battery, but I'm a dooms dayer, so I think they probably sprayed the alternator when they were washing the engine bay.

The car came with butt ugly aftermarket wheels (16") and 4 basically bald tires (front right IS bald). I'm torn between spending money on 17" wheels (plain jane steel - 17x7 front 17x9 rear from ADTR), or just buying 4 new tires, for the 16's to get my through the winter (the drive to work this morning was slickery and FUN). Probably just go new 16's because --- money.

I tried to plug in my OBDII dongle (I run them in all of my cars) and it didn't seem to power up. Looking like I've got a few things to dig into. The third brake light also blinks with the blinkers, that's just not right.
_________________________
2005 Crown Vic LX
T45 Manual Swapped ADTR Kit (T45 from a 2000 SVT Mustang)
4:10 Ford Performance Rear Gears
Mo's Speed Shop Tune
ADTR Sway Bars Front and Rear
Moog End Links
Moog Left and Right Upper Control Arms/Ball Joints
KYB Rear Shocks (555603 Gas-a-Just)
Moog CC865 Rear Springs (Bout to change to Moog CC501)
Moog Rubber Bits all around
CHE Performance Upper/Lower Control Arms & Watts Link
E-Bay front struts & springs

Top
#4038028 - 11/27/19 04:16 PM Re: New from Utah [Re: 67Comet]
Dmblanch Offline
Member

Registered: 11/13/19
Posts: 447
Loc: Utah
I had a pesky intermittent battery light come on all the time in my 2002. It seemed to get worse in city traffic and on rainy days, so I naturally suspected a whole host of alternator, slipping belt, bad terminal issues. I checked everything, got a voltage meter and watched it, replaced battery and both terminals... still did it.

Finally, through sheer dumb luck, I noticed that the batt light would only come on/flicker when the HVAC was switched to OFF, in all other settings, it wouldn't trigger. So I simply never set it to OFF and it never lit up again. I sold it that way and I passed the tip on to the buyer.

If it needs a new battery, it'll just die on you shortly. These new batteries don't give much, if any, warning that they're starting to fail. If it's past three years, it'll die abruptly. I've tried checking one with various tests before I thought they'd fail and never could detect warning signs until they went caput.
_________________________

1) 2002 White P71 - 89K miles. 2) 2003 B&W P71 - 74K. 3) & 6) & 11) 2005 White P71 - 54K, 74k, 115K. 4) 2011 Black P7B - 79K. 5) 2008 White P71 - 95k. 7) 2004 Silver P71 - 104K. 8) 2004 Toreador Red LX Sport - 111K. 9) & 10) 2010 White P7B SAP - 104K & 106K. 12) 2006 White P71 - scrapped. 13) 2007 Tungsten LX Sport - 125k. 14) 2006 White MGM LS Premium - 93k.

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#4038358 - 12/01/19 04:06 AM Re: New from Utah [Re: 67Comet]
D-Fenz Offline

Poobah

Registered: 10/23/03
Posts: 6695
Loc: Free America (WV)
Originally Posted By 67Comet
Hello,

Last night I purchased a 2005 Crown Vic LX in Murray. 86,000 miles on the speedo.

Drove it home to Ogden (about 42 miles), and it was very quiet, smooth, and felt great.

The Battery/Alternator light comes on after a few seconds of idle. And the Brake light comes on when stopping (looks like new pads, but I think the fluid is probably just low). As far as the battery light. The seller said it probably needed a battery, but I'm a dooms dayer, so I think they probably sprayed the alternator when they were washing the engine bay.

The car came with butt ugly aftermarket wheels (16") and 4 basically bald tires (front right IS bald). I'm torn between spending money on 17" wheels (plain jane steel - 17x7 front 17x9 rear from ADTR), or just buying 4 new tires, for the 16's to get my through the winter (the drive to work this morning was slickery and FUN). Probably just go new 16's because --- money.

I tried to plug in my OBDII dongle (I run them in all of my cars) and it didn't seem to power up. Looking like I've got a few things to dig into. The third brake light also blinks with the blinkers, that's just not right.


Welcome aboard.

For wheels, lots of takeoffs from Mustangs and Explorers have the right center bore and bolt pattern, check the wheel and tire section for specifics, but there is a big omnibus thread with a breakdown by model year, etc. I personally am running 2016 Mustang wheels for summer, and the stock steelies for winter.

My 2005 that I had an electrical problem with turned out to be a corroded black battery cable/ground (the one that goes from the battery to the chassis ground). It was actually inside the insulation, so you might want to check it or even just snag a new one and replace it, as it should be relatively cheap and might solve your problem.
_________________________
2011 Black CVPI-Charlie Murphy II, 125K miles, Gray Interior, Fog Lights, 35% Tint All Around, Working Shotgun Release, 3.27 RAR, 2017 Mustang Wheels.



2005 CVPI-Rick James-SOLD
2000 Exploder-Charlie Murphy I-SOLD
1998 CVPI-Snow Beast-SOLD
1991 CVLX-Beast-SOLD
1987 Tempo-The Red Demon-RIP

Beef Supreme Tech News

Please put your year/make/model/mileage in your signature, it helps everyone answer your questions.

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#4038392 - 12/01/19 10:57 AM Re: New from Utah [Re: D-Fenz]
67Comet Offline
n00b

Registered: 11/20/19
Posts: 26
Loc: Utah
Haya,

Thanks for the wheel ideas, I'm still shopping for a set, but in no hurry.

I put a new Alternator on this weekend, and it's all better (I hope).

I also went through the fuzes, and found a few that were blown. Stuffed replacements in there, and knock on wood, they're all doing well now.

The new tires were a good idea, it has been snowing here, and they're doing well (Up Sardine canyon in a snow storm, and it went fine).

After driving it all weekend all I've found that I need to really work on is the third brake light blinks with the left blinker light (What kind of owner wires crap like that? LOL). The driver's sun visor is broken inside, but "works".

I'm seriously shopping for a T3650 Transmission right now. Once I've got that purchased, I'll get the conversion kit and start tearing into it. The reason I got this car, was to do the manual swap (Friggin' excited for that).

Thanks again, hope to see fellow Utah'ns around.


Edited by 67Comet (12/01/19 10:58 AM)
_________________________
2005 Crown Vic LX
T45 Manual Swapped ADTR Kit (T45 from a 2000 SVT Mustang)
4:10 Ford Performance Rear Gears
Mo's Speed Shop Tune
ADTR Sway Bars Front and Rear
Moog End Links
Moog Left and Right Upper Control Arms/Ball Joints
KYB Rear Shocks (555603 Gas-a-Just)
Moog CC865 Rear Springs (Bout to change to Moog CC501)
Moog Rubber Bits all around
CHE Performance Upper/Lower Control Arms & Watts Link
E-Bay front struts & springs

Top
#4038488 - 12/02/19 01:52 AM Re: New from Utah [Re: 67Comet]
D-Fenz Offline

Poobah

Registered: 10/23/03
Posts: 6695
Loc: Free America (WV)
There are several members who have done manual swaps, check out the high performance section I would imagine. Pier's car is actually pretty famous online and I know he has a manual.
_________________________
2011 Black CVPI-Charlie Murphy II, 125K miles, Gray Interior, Fog Lights, 35% Tint All Around, Working Shotgun Release, 3.27 RAR, 2017 Mustang Wheels.



2005 CVPI-Rick James-SOLD
2000 Exploder-Charlie Murphy I-SOLD
1998 CVPI-Snow Beast-SOLD
1991 CVLX-Beast-SOLD
1987 Tempo-The Red Demon-RIP

Beef Supreme Tech News

Please put your year/make/model/mileage in your signature, it helps everyone answer your questions.

Top
#4038868 - 12/05/19 05:08 PM Re: New from Utah [Re: 67Comet]
Dmblanch Offline
Member

Registered: 11/13/19
Posts: 447
Loc: Utah
I just did a quick scan of KSL.com for "mustang wheels" and I found a plethora of cheap and attractive options that doesn't come up when searching for 225/60r16 tires the traditional way. This causes me to initially agree with D-Fenz on this subject.

My two CVPI's have 17 inch steelies right now and both have winter tires on them right now (which are a real necessity here in Utah). I have one set of near new Goodyear Police Eagle Rs-A's for the one and they're about $200 a piece brand new and nothing for the other. Ideally, I'd like to have two sets of wheels for each so I don't have to pay to have the tires switched, and I'm liking what I'm seeing with Mustang and Explorer wheels, bolt holes are going to match and offset probably won't be too bad. Trick is getting the right diameters and tire matches otherwise your speedo will be off. Mustang will be closer to the CV than the Explorer.


Edited by Dmblanch (12/05/19 05:12 PM)
_________________________

1) 2002 White P71 - 89K miles. 2) 2003 B&W P71 - 74K. 3) & 6) & 11) 2005 White P71 - 54K, 74k, 115K. 4) 2011 Black P7B - 79K. 5) 2008 White P71 - 95k. 7) 2004 Silver P71 - 104K. 8) 2004 Toreador Red LX Sport - 111K. 9) & 10) 2010 White P7B SAP - 104K & 106K. 12) 2006 White P71 - scrapped. 13) 2007 Tungsten LX Sport - 125k. 14) 2006 White MGM LS Premium - 93k.

Top
#4038980 - 12/06/19 06:11 PM Re: New from Utah [Re: 67Comet]
Dmblanch Offline
Member

Registered: 11/13/19
Posts: 447
Loc: Utah
Gotta thank D-Fenz for his brilliant Mustang Wheels suggestion. I was not really looking for a second set of wheels for either of my two CVPI's, but in searching the local ads on behalf of 67Comet, I spotted a great and super cheap set of 17" alloys with Pirelli 235/55r17 summer tires for the grand total of just $200. Too cheap to pass up, so I didn't. I never would have found them otherwise.

[img]https://img.ksl.com/mx/mplace-classified...etplace/664x500[/img]
_________________________

1) 2002 White P71 - 89K miles. 2) 2003 B&W P71 - 74K. 3) & 6) & 11) 2005 White P71 - 54K, 74k, 115K. 4) 2011 Black P7B - 79K. 5) 2008 White P71 - 95k. 7) 2004 Silver P71 - 104K. 8) 2004 Toreador Red LX Sport - 111K. 9) & 10) 2010 White P7B SAP - 104K & 106K. 12) 2006 White P71 - scrapped. 13) 2007 Tungsten LX Sport - 125k. 14) 2006 White MGM LS Premium - 93k.

Top
#4110528 - 05/26/21 12:11 AM Re: New from Utah [Re: 67Comet]
Dmblanch Offline
Member

Registered: 11/13/19
Posts: 447
Loc: Utah
Thanks to D-Fenz, I just picked up my second set of 17" Mustang wheels, complete with usable Nexen 235/55r17 tires, this time for the grand total of $100. I did have to swap the center caps from Mustang badges to Ford badges, so $135 total.

It seems Mustang guys are always changing their wheels, thank goodness for us.
_________________________

1) 2002 White P71 - 89K miles. 2) 2003 B&W P71 - 74K. 3) & 6) & 11) 2005 White P71 - 54K, 74k, 115K. 4) 2011 Black P7B - 79K. 5) 2008 White P71 - 95k. 7) 2004 Silver P71 - 104K. 8) 2004 Toreador Red LX Sport - 111K. 9) & 10) 2010 White P7B SAP - 104K & 106K. 12) 2006 White P71 - scrapped. 13) 2007 Tungsten LX Sport - 125k. 14) 2006 White MGM LS Premium - 93k.

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