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#4041890 - 01/02/20 05:40 PM Leak at A/C compressor
Car_54 Offline
Member

Registered: 08/04/10
Posts: 257
Loc: SW,WA
I was under my '01 doing an oil change and noticed the back of the A/C compressor covered in a green substance. At first I though it was moss since I get a lot of it growing on my cars that sit outside. I got a better look and then I thought it was a coolant leak but there wasn't any coolant line near the compressor plus the liquid is much thicker than than coolant.
So after searching around on this site I found out the green liquid is a dye in the A/C system for detecting leaks. The A/C lines look dry so I guess the compressor itself is leaking. Bummer. The defrost still works fine. I hope it holds up through the winter. It must have started in the last 3000 miles because I didn't see it at the last oil change.
_________________________
~DJ~

2001 P71, Wedgewood blue 225K

2002 Excursion XLT 2WD 7.3L 105K

1994 F150 4X4 5.0L / 5 speed ; 218K

1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan ; 30K

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#4042042 - 01/03/20 02:03 PM Re: Leak at A/C compressor [Re: Car_54]
Car_54 Offline
Member

Registered: 08/04/10
Posts: 257
Loc: SW,WA
I've been shopping for a compressor but a lot of different types come up but look basically the same for my year and model. I'm definitely getting a new Motorcraft one but does it matter which one? There are recommendations to change the dryer and condenser but my compressor has not really failed. Should I really replace those?
_________________________
~DJ~

2001 P71, Wedgewood blue 225K

2002 Excursion XLT 2WD 7.3L 105K

1994 F150 4X4 5.0L / 5 speed ; 218K

1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan ; 30K

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#4042048 - 01/03/20 02:52 PM Re: Leak at A/C compressor [Re: Car_54]
TheCableGuy Offline
Climber

Registered: 04/08/19
Posts: 826
Loc: Far Northwest AZ
Junk yard man, junk yard. 15 bucks at mine.
_________________________
2010 P7B 150K. 11K hours. 3.27, RKE, Cruise, Ported stock plenum, JMod
2011 Sierra 1500 155K, too many mods to list. (RIP 01-05-2019)
2001 Durango R/T 5.9. 230K. SOLD 5-1-19

I’m a classical textbook over-thinker.


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#4042052 - 01/03/20 03:50 PM Re: Leak at A/C compressor [Re: Car_54]
Car_54 Offline
Member

Registered: 08/04/10
Posts: 257
Loc: SW,WA
Yeah I could do that but I don't know if they purge the A/C's at my local lot. I'd hate to have to purge it out myself. Also it's a gamble on an unknown part and I don't want do it twice.
_________________________
~DJ~

2001 P71, Wedgewood blue 225K

2002 Excursion XLT 2WD 7.3L 105K

1994 F150 4X4 5.0L / 5 speed ; 218K

1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan ; 30K

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#4042068 - 01/03/20 06:01 PM Re: Leak at A/C compressor [Re: Car_54]
BigMerc96 Offline

I know nothing
Posting Addict

Registered: 06/05/10
Posts: 19860
Loc: I can see Detroit from here!
'01 should be a FS10 compressor, I don't think they even offered any other type that year. If you are looking at Motorcraft, they probably sell them new, remanufactured, and with or without the clutch. I'd definitely buy one with the clutch, but new vs. reman would be up to you. I wouldn't lose sleep over using a properly reman'd compressor.

I would definitely replace the accumulator/dryer if you have the system open. Chances are, its starting to rust anyway if it still has the factory foam insulation on it. I had to put one in my '98 last spring because it rusted out under that foam, and that's on a rust free car. They're pretty inexpensive and it could potentially prevent any leaks in the near future, as well as just being good practice.
_________________________
-Steve

2006 Audi A6 ~132k miles, stock.
1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS HPP ~100k miles, slowly acquiring modifications.
1997 Town Car Cartier ~145k miles, Ported Plenum, Gutted Airbox, Contour E-fan Retrofit, Dual exhaust with Magnaflows, cats deleted, MSD Ignition, KYB Gas-A-Justs, P71 front bar, air ride reinstated, Projector retrofit, Caddy 4-note horn retrofit, Wood rim steering wheel retrofit, holistic weight reduction as the parts fall off..
1996 Mercury Grand Marquis GS 117,485mi. R.I.P. 7/14/12 frown

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#4042072 - 01/03/20 06:12 PM Re: Leak at A/C compressor [Re: Car_54]
Car_54 Offline
Member

Registered: 08/04/10
Posts: 257
Loc: SW,WA
Good advice BigM. The compressors I've found were on Rock Auto. Prices were OK. The compressors had model YC with a different numbers after them such as YCC339, etc.
_________________________
~DJ~

2001 P71, Wedgewood blue 225K

2002 Excursion XLT 2WD 7.3L 105K

1994 F150 4X4 5.0L / 5 speed ; 218K

1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan ; 30K

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#4042488 - 01/07/20 09:17 AM Re: Leak at A/C compressor [Re: Car_54]
Raven238 Offline
Over the Hill

Registered: 09/19/10
Posts: 1401
Loc: Beantown, MA
On rockauto the 1967NK option has everything you need, including the oil. Definitely replace the dryer. If you’re comfortable replacing these components yourself, IF the compressor doesn’t come with oil in it, put just a few ounces in the suction side of the compressor, and dump the rest in the dryer. Put it on a vacuum for a about 2 hours, and see if it holds a vacuum for an hour.

I wrapped my dryer in insulation foam to prevent it from sweating. Hopefully it stays off it from rusting.
_________________________


97 P71 187K milesSOLD

03 TC Executive 142K.
70mm Tuberculosis, Projectors refit, LED refit, some other kind of refit, something something something....something.

03 P71 225XXX miles
Marauder Cluster Swap,Sniper Tuned, Side Blinker Mod, Headlamp Upgrade pictorial
Town Car Projector Refit

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#4042494 - 01/07/20 10:06 AM Re: Leak at A/C compressor [Re: Car_54]
Rootintootin Online   content
Climber

Registered: 02/26/08
Posts: 581
Loc: North Carolina
Not really pertinent, but how did you get that pic in? Is the "enter image" working again?
_________________________
97 CVPI(Ex. Tampa PD #715), 139K miles, performance Torque converter, J-modded valve body. Monroe Gas Magnum Severe Duty shocks, Ported Plenum and 70mm FRPP Throttle body

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#4042596 - 01/07/20 09:36 PM Re: Leak at A/C compressor [Re: Raven238]
Car_54 Offline
Member

Registered: 08/04/10
Posts: 257
Loc: SW,WA
Originally Posted By Raven238
On rockauto the 1967NK option has everything you need, including the oil. Definitely replace the dryer. If you’re comfortable replacing these components yourself, IF the compressor doesn’t come with oil in it, put just a few ounces in the suction side of the compressor, and dump the rest in the dryer. Put it on a vacuum for a about 2 hours, and see if it holds a vacuum for an hour.

I wrapped my dryer in insulation foam to prevent it from sweating. Hopefully it stays off it from rusting.


I don't have a problem installing any of the components. I done a couple of complete A/C install in cars that never had it to begin with. The only thing is I'd have a shop pull the vacuum and charge it for me.
_________________________
~DJ~

2001 P71, Wedgewood blue 225K

2002 Excursion XLT 2WD 7.3L 105K

1994 F150 4X4 5.0L / 5 speed ; 218K

1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan ; 30K

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#4042598 - 01/07/20 09:40 PM Re: Leak at A/C compressor [Re: Rootintootin]
Car_54 Offline
Member

Registered: 08/04/10
Posts: 257
Loc: SW,WA
Originally Posted By Rootintootin
Not really pertinent, but how did you get that pic in? Is the "enter image" working again?


No I have a gallery of photos at another forum. I upload them there and post them using the "enter an image" button in the reply window.
_________________________
~DJ~

2001 P71, Wedgewood blue 225K

2002 Excursion XLT 2WD 7.3L 105K

1994 F150 4X4 5.0L / 5 speed ; 218K

1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan ; 30K

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#4065268 - 05/30/20 02:22 PM Re: Leak at A/C compressor [Re: Car_54]
Car_54 Offline
Member

Registered: 08/04/10
Posts: 257
Loc: SW,WA
Update. I haven't done anything yet. I used it sparingly until last week. There were a few hot days and I used the A/C on a couple of trips that were about an hour. It's leaking green oil enough to leave a good sized spot on my driveway. It still blew nice and cold but it looks like I'll have to replace the compressor. I can't tell where it's leaking. I tried tightening the compressors bolts a few weeks ago while I was under it checking the suspension but all the bolts were tight.
It sucks since this is my DD and gets the best mileage of anything I own.
_________________________
~DJ~

2001 P71, Wedgewood blue 225K

2002 Excursion XLT 2WD 7.3L 105K

1994 F150 4X4 5.0L / 5 speed ; 218K

1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan ; 30K

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#4065356 - 05/31/20 06:48 AM Re: Leak at A/C compressor [Re: Car_54]
Rootintootin Online   content
Climber

Registered: 02/26/08
Posts: 581
Loc: North Carolina
How are your cycle times? Do you have the manifold gauge set to get some numbers, high and low? What kind of temperatures are you getting? Need some numbers, not just "feels cold". You need to know all this before you start working on the system. Otherwise, you're just out there doing some Polish mine clearing, stomping around in the dark.

The green is the leak detector dye, the oil is actually clear. Also, just because you have oil on the compressor doesn't mean it's bad. There are seals where the manifold bolts up to the compressor, and the refrigerant lines are there too.

If it was me, I'd go to that shop that would give me some numbers and maybe do a leak test to pinpoint exactly where that oil and dye is coming from. I'd then have them recover whatever refrigerant was still in the system, so I could then take it home for any parts replacement necessary. Whether they said it was necessary or not, I would pick up a kit and replace every o-ring and seal in the system. I would replace the receiver dryer and what ever else they said was needed. Once done, it's back to the shop for a vacuum test and recharge if it passes. If they don't want to work with me on that I'd find a shop that would. If I couldn't find one, then I'd buy another vacuum pump and just do the charging myself.

There is a chart that tells you how much oil you need to put in for each component replaced. Too much is bad, lessens the system efficiency. Too little is bad, can cause damage to the compressor. I'd use those numbers as a guide for oil replacement while I was doing my R&R. Or you could just have the shop add that amount when they do the charging.
_________________________
97 CVPI(Ex. Tampa PD #715), 139K miles, performance Torque converter, J-modded valve body. Monroe Gas Magnum Severe Duty shocks, Ported Plenum and 70mm FRPP Throttle body

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#4065358 - 05/31/20 07:32 AM Re: Leak at A/C compressor [Re: Car_54]
2008interceptor Offline
Over the Hill

Registered: 09/02/02
Posts: 3161
Loc: Pennsylvania
Good point on using a full gauge set and not just till it seems cold. The ambient temp also can have an effect on what numbers you want to be seeing. Modern systems don't use a huge amount of volume like r-12 so you need to be fairly precise.
_________________________
2008 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor P71 with street appearance package.

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#4065396 - 05/31/20 01:05 PM Re: Leak at A/C compressor [Re: Car_54]
Car_54 Offline
Member

Registered: 08/04/10
Posts: 257
Loc: SW,WA
That is some excellent advice Rootintootin. I don't have any 134a gauges, just some old R12 ones. I had an eye on a recovery set up on a gov auction but the price went higher than I figure I could recoop the cost over my lifetime.
I have a shop I use when I don't have the tools for a particular job. I can see how much they'll charge to check it and to recover and recharge it. They helped me out on another car several years ago. Unfortunately that car's A/C system turned into a can of worms that kept blowing out other parts.
I don't want to put a lot of money into the A/C repair as I'm planning on selling it this summer. It also needs need new front calipers which I'll fix for sure. A working A/C would be a plus but I don't want to sink more than a quarter of the car's value in fixing the A/C.
I'm thinking driving it w/o using the A/C would be OK for now right?
_________________________
~DJ~

2001 P71, Wedgewood blue 225K

2002 Excursion XLT 2WD 7.3L 105K

1994 F150 4X4 5.0L / 5 speed ; 218K

1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan ; 30K

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#4065736 - 06/02/20 02:56 PM Re: Leak at A/C compressor [Re: Car_54]
BigJon Offline

Grand Poobah

Registered: 06/30/02
Posts: 11795
Loc: Virginia
Originally Posted By Car_54
That is some excellent advice Rootintootin. I don't have any 134a gauges, just some old R12 ones. I had an eye on a recovery set up on a gov auction but the price went higher than I figure I could recoop the cost over my lifetime.
I have a shop I use when I don't have the tools for a particular job. I can see how much they'll charge to check it and to recover and recharge it. They helped me out on another car several years ago. Unfortunately that car's A/C system turned into a can of worms that kept blowing out other parts.
I don't want to put a lot of money into the A/C repair as I'm planning on selling it this summer. It also needs need new front calipers which I'll fix for sure. A working A/C would be a plus but I don't want to sink more than a quarter of the car's value in fixing the A/C.
I'm thinking driving it w/o using the A/C would be OK for now right?


You are correct. You will not hurt anything. Keep an eye out for coupons in your area for free A/C checks. They'll give you a quote for free and you can decide if it is worth it or not. These systems aren't too expensive to work on.
_________________________
-Current:
2001 Crown Victoria P74

-Gone, but not forgotten:
1988 Mercury Grand Marquis
1994 Ford Crown Victoria
2000 Ford Crown Victoria HPP
2004 Ford Crown Victoria LX Sport
2004 Mercury Grand Marquis

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