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#4043214 - 01/12/20 09:41 PM Torque values and Tightening Sequence
KYF350 Offline
Climber

Registered: 09/10/07
Posts: 933
Greetings folks,
Still working on the MGM in my signature. New water pump nipple in, new water pump on, new OEM heater return hose on, pretty much buttoned up. What are the torque specs and tightening sequence for the intake manifold? Also, what is that dumb thing behind the engine I had to remove to get this dang OEM heater hose out? I had to take off the ground strap, then, 2 more 13mm nuts to remove this dumb thing, and then screw the studs out of the head to remove the OEM metal hose. Thanks for your replies, Craig.
_________________________
2005 Ford Excursion Eddie Bauer, 4X4, True Blue/Arizona Beige, 6.0 liter PSD, all bells and whistles, 30mm Ford rear anti-sway bar.
2005 Ford F-350 Superduty, 4X4, 6.0 liter PSD, Red, SC, SRW, Lariat, B&W Turnover hitch, all bells and whistles.
2004 Ford Crown Victoria LX Sport, Dark shadow grey, SOLD.
1996 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, Mocha, HPP, 173A package, traction assist. Mom's car.

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#4043222 - 01/12/20 10:30 PM Re: Torque values and Tightening Sequence [Re: KYF350]
crjackson Offline
Member

Registered: 09/02/15
Posts: 105
Loc: Charlotte, NC


These are the instructions from Dorman.

Just posting it here for torque specs / pattern.

Hope this helps.


Edited by crjackson (01/12/20 11:51 PM)
_________________________


1998 Crown Victoria LX, 4.6L V8, 158,000 mi., All original equipment
2014 Mustang GT, 5.0 Premium 401A, Track-Pack, Comfort Pack, Tech Pack, 4K mi. Some Mods...
2018 Black Nissan 370Z Nismo Tech, All Options, 1K mi., All original equipment



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#4043228 - 01/12/20 10:50 PM Re: Torque values and Tightening Sequence [Re: crjackson]
KYF350 Offline
Climber

Registered: 09/10/07
Posts: 933
Originally Posted By crjackson


You can ignore the tech tips. These are the instructions from Dorman.

Just posting it here for torque specs / pattern.

Thanks for your reply, Craig.
_________________________
2005 Ford Excursion Eddie Bauer, 4X4, True Blue/Arizona Beige, 6.0 liter PSD, all bells and whistles, 30mm Ford rear anti-sway bar.
2005 Ford F-350 Superduty, 4X4, 6.0 liter PSD, Red, SC, SRW, Lariat, B&W Turnover hitch, all bells and whistles.
2004 Ford Crown Victoria LX Sport, Dark shadow grey, SOLD.
1996 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, Mocha, HPP, 173A package, traction assist. Mom's car.

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#4043230 - 01/12/20 11:01 PM Re: Torque values and Tightening Sequence [Re: KYF350]
crjackson Offline
Member

Registered: 09/02/15
Posts: 105
Loc: Charlotte, NC
I edited the superfluous tech tip section.
_________________________


1998 Crown Victoria LX, 4.6L V8, 158,000 mi., All original equipment
2014 Mustang GT, 5.0 Premium 401A, Track-Pack, Comfort Pack, Tech Pack, 4K mi. Some Mods...
2018 Black Nissan 370Z Nismo Tech, All Options, 1K mi., All original equipment



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#4043232 - 01/13/20 12:41 AM Re: Torque values and Tightening Sequence [Re: crjackson]
KYF350 Offline
Climber

Registered: 09/10/07
Posts: 933
Originally Posted By crjackson
I edited the superfluous tech tip section.

Very nice. Thanks for your reply, Craig.
_________________________
2005 Ford Excursion Eddie Bauer, 4X4, True Blue/Arizona Beige, 6.0 liter PSD, all bells and whistles, 30mm Ford rear anti-sway bar.
2005 Ford F-350 Superduty, 4X4, 6.0 liter PSD, Red, SC, SRW, Lariat, B&W Turnover hitch, all bells and whistles.
2004 Ford Crown Victoria LX Sport, Dark shadow grey, SOLD.
1996 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, Mocha, HPP, 173A package, traction assist. Mom's car.

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#4043242 - 01/13/20 03:29 AM Re: Torque values and Tightening Sequence [Re: KYF350]
TheShadow Offline

Over the Hill

Registered: 05/01/07
Posts: 1564
Loc: SoCal High Desert
Originally Posted By KYF350
... Also, what is that dumb thing behind the engine I had to remove to get this dang OEM heater hose out? I had to take off the ground strap, then, 2 more 13mm nuts to remove this dumb thing, and then screw the studs out of the head to remove the OEM metal hose. Thanks for your replies, Craig.

You might be talking about the metal mount for the DPFE sensor? IIRC, it slips onto two bolt/studs in the back end of the head, with those other things also (heater core return pipe and ground). If it is that, there'll be the DPFE sensor with two rubber hoses running to the EGR tube. Those early years ('96,'97,'98) for the big change from '95 down, there were at least two different setups that I can recall for the Crown Vics, and I worked on taxis, so who knows the origin vehicle parts before I got them..?.
_________________________
'95 P71, 5xx,xxx miles, Rebuilt tranny, 2.73. Lives as a cab, and will die as a cab. (Died-FrontEnder)
'96 P71, 640,xxx on original drivetrain. (Now parts car - T-bone & roll)(You should see the roof - A,B & C-pillars chopped on driver side)
New to list: '96 MGM (Nice! @ 35x,xxx), '97 CV P71, '98 CV P71, '00 CV P71, 01 P71 (2 of 'em) '03 CV P71 (Nice so far) (All Ford Zinc Yellow w/Black decals & trim) And the list is growing...........
Taxicab mechanic: I HATE DRIVERS!

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#4043260 - 01/13/20 08:21 AM Re: Torque values and Tightening Sequence [Re: TheShadow]
KYF350 Offline
Climber

Registered: 09/10/07
Posts: 933
Originally Posted By TheShadow
Originally Posted By KYF350
... Also, what is that dumb thing behind the engine I had to remove to get this dang OEM heater hose out? I had to take off the ground strap, then, 2 more 13mm nuts to remove this dumb thing, and then screw the studs out of the head to remove the OEM metal hose. Thanks for your replies, Craig.

You might be talking about the metal mount for the DPFE sensor? IIRC, it slips onto two bolt/studs in the back end of the head, with those other things also (heater core return pipe and ground). If it is that, there'll be the DPFE sensor with two rubber hoses running to the EGR tube. Those early years ('96,'97,'98) for the big change from '95 down, there were at least two different setups that I can recall for the Crown Vics, and I worked on taxis, so who knows the origin vehicle parts before I got them..?.

That is exactly what it is. It has 2 hoses that goes to it and an electrical connection. It is on a triangular bracket and the ground strap, it, and the studs in the head had to be removed before I could get that hose out of there. They don't leave you much room to work. They needed to put that somewhere else. There were some people on this forum that tried to talk me out of replacing that hose; now I know why. Thanks for your reply, Craig.
_________________________
2005 Ford Excursion Eddie Bauer, 4X4, True Blue/Arizona Beige, 6.0 liter PSD, all bells and whistles, 30mm Ford rear anti-sway bar.
2005 Ford F-350 Superduty, 4X4, 6.0 liter PSD, Red, SC, SRW, Lariat, B&W Turnover hitch, all bells and whistles.
2004 Ford Crown Victoria LX Sport, Dark shadow grey, SOLD.
1996 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, Mocha, HPP, 173A package, traction assist. Mom's car.

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#4043266 - 01/13/20 09:46 AM Re: Torque values and Tightening Sequence [Re: KYF350]
BigMerc96 Offline

I know nothing
Posting Addict

Registered: 06/05/10
Posts: 19688
Loc: I can see Detroit from here!
FWIW, the '01-'02 cars just leave the DPFE floating back there on its hoses. It weighs nothing, and the high temp silicone hoses are stiff enough. There are at least a few other cars I've seen with a floating DPFE. When I put the '01+ style bypass pipe on my '98, I cut the DPFE bracket from the original pipe and simply "sistered" it on with the new one. While it certainly could be left floating, I had a perfectly fine bracket for it so I used it. The bracket was more necessary on the older cars that used an aluminum cased DPFE because they had some weight to them, but they were also problematic because the aluminum ones would accumulate condensation inside them and cause them to fail. So the part was redesigned with a plastic casing that was less prone to that and is also lighter.

If your '96 still has an aluminum DPFE, I'd probably replace it as preventative maintenance, they're not fun to get too when everything is together and the old one is likely past its prime. It caused all sorts of weirdness in my '97 that I never would have guessed was from the DPFE if I hadn't gotten a P0401 code and it finally clicked in my head what was happening. When they fail they lose sensitivity, so the PCM opens the EGR and the DPFE says "no its not", the PCM then commands the EGR open more, DPFE still says "no its not", and the cycle repeats until the PCM is commanding 100% EGR and the DPFE is reporting significantly less and it throws that 401 code. Basically, its diluting the air/fuel mixture with excessive recirculated exhaust. In my '97 this caused a noticeable hesitation, pinging, and a "soft" misfire at cruising speeds where the EGR would be open.
_________________________
-Steve

2006 Audi A6 ~132k miles, stock.
1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS HPP ~100k miles, slowly acquiring modifications.
1997 Town Car Cartier ~145k miles, Ported Plenum, Gutted Airbox, Contour E-fan Retrofit, Dual exhaust with Magnaflows, cats deleted, MSD Ignition, KYB Gas-A-Justs, P71 front bar, air ride reinstated, Projector retrofit, Caddy 4-note horn retrofit, Wood rim steering wheel retrofit, holistic weight reduction as the parts fall off..
1996 Mercury Grand Marquis GS 117,485mi. R.I.P. 7/14/12 frown

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#4043374 - 01/13/20 09:12 PM Re: Torque values and Tightening Sequence [Re: BigMerc96]
KYF350 Offline
Climber

Registered: 09/10/07
Posts: 933
Originally Posted By BigMerc96
FWIW, the '01-'02 cars just leave the DPFE floating back there on its hoses. It weighs nothing, and the high temp silicone hoses are stiff enough. There are at least a few other cars I've seen with a floating DPFE. When I put the '01+ style bypass pipe on my '98, I cut the DPFE bracket from the original pipe and simply "sistered" it on with the new one. While it certainly could be left floating, I had a perfectly fine bracket for it so I used it. The bracket was more necessary on the older cars that used an aluminum cased DPFE because they had some weight to them, but they were also problematic because the aluminum ones would accumulate condensation inside them and cause them to fail. So the part was redesigned with a plastic casing that was less prone to that and is also lighter.

If your '96 still has an aluminum DPFE, I'd probably replace it as preventative maintenance, they're not fun to get too when everything is together and the old one is likely past its prime. It caused all sorts of weirdness in my '97 that I never would have guessed was from the DPFE if I hadn't gotten a P0401 code and it finally clicked in my head what was happening. When they fail they lose sensitivity, so the PCM opens the EGR and the DPFE says "no its not", the PCM then commands the EGR open more, DPFE still says "no its not", and the cycle repeats until the PCM is commanding 100% EGR and the DPFE is reporting significantly less and it throws that 401 code. Basically, its diluting the air/fuel mixture with excessive recirculated exhaust. In my '97 this caused a noticeable hesitation, pinging, and a "soft" misfire at cruising speeds where the EGR would be open.

That thing is difficult enough to get to without ANYTHING assembled. Funny, my car is doing all of those things you just said especially the pinging. (And I use 93 octane gasoline) While I have everything apart, I will take your advice and replace that. Thanks for your reply, Craig.
_________________________
2005 Ford Excursion Eddie Bauer, 4X4, True Blue/Arizona Beige, 6.0 liter PSD, all bells and whistles, 30mm Ford rear anti-sway bar.
2005 Ford F-350 Superduty, 4X4, 6.0 liter PSD, Red, SC, SRW, Lariat, B&W Turnover hitch, all bells and whistles.
2004 Ford Crown Victoria LX Sport, Dark shadow grey, SOLD.
1996 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, Mocha, HPP, 173A package, traction assist. Mom's car.

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#4044022 - 01/18/20 11:47 PM Re: Torque values and Tightening Sequence [Re: KYF350]
KYF350 Offline
Climber

Registered: 09/10/07
Posts: 933
Originally Posted By KYF350
Originally Posted By BigMerc96
FWIW, the '01-'02 cars just leave the DPFE floating back there on its hoses. It weighs nothing, and the high temp silicone hoses are stiff enough. There are at least a few other cars I've seen with a floating DPFE. When I put the '01+ style bypass pipe on my '98, I cut the DPFE bracket from the original pipe and simply "sistered" it on with the new one. While it certainly could be left floating, I had a perfectly fine bracket for it so I used it. The bracket was more necessary on the older cars that used an aluminum cased DPFE because they had some weight to them, but they were also problematic because the aluminum ones would accumulate condensation inside them and cause them to fail. So the part was redesigned with a plastic casing that was less prone to that and is also lighter.

If your '96 still has an aluminum DPFE, I'd probably replace it as preventative maintenance, they're not fun to get too when everything is together and the old one is likely past its prime. It caused all sorts of weirdness in my '97 that I never would have guessed was from the DPFE if I hadn't gotten a P0401 code and it finally clicked in my head what was happening. When they fail they lose sensitivity, so the PCM opens the EGR and the DPFE says "no its not", the PCM then commands the EGR open more, DPFE still says "no its not", and the cycle repeats until the PCM is commanding 100% EGR and the DPFE is reporting significantly less and it throws that 401 code. Basically, its diluting the air/fuel mixture with excessive recirculated exhaust. In my '97 this caused a noticeable hesitation, pinging, and a "soft" misfire at cruising speeds where the EGR would be open.

That thing is difficult enough to get to without ANYTHING assembled. Funny, my car is doing all of those things you just said especially the pinging. (And I use 93 octane gasoline) While I have everything apart, I will take your advice and replace that. Thanks for your reply, Craig.

You were exactly right and made a good recommendation on replacing that DPFE sensor. I got that thing back together after being up until almost midnight. I got that thing started (it sputtered until all the air got out of the fuel rails) and immediately the check engine light illuminated. That sensor had never been changed as it had the metal sensor and it was indeed shot. The two connections are labeled "ref" and "hi" and the "hi" connection was completely plugged.
I stood on my head to change that thing out and forgot to plug the electrical connection into the sensor. I remembered it after I got the CEL.
It doesn't drive like the same car. It had a hesitation that had been there since the car was new. That is gone and it runs just GREAT! Thanks for your reply and the advice, Craig.



Edited by KYF350 (01/18/20 11:57 PM)
_________________________
2005 Ford Excursion Eddie Bauer, 4X4, True Blue/Arizona Beige, 6.0 liter PSD, all bells and whistles, 30mm Ford rear anti-sway bar.
2005 Ford F-350 Superduty, 4X4, 6.0 liter PSD, Red, SC, SRW, Lariat, B&W Turnover hitch, all bells and whistles.
2004 Ford Crown Victoria LX Sport, Dark shadow grey, SOLD.
1996 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, Mocha, HPP, 173A package, traction assist. Mom's car.

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