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#4072626 - 08/01/20 06:19 PM AC cold for 25 minutes.
TheCableGuy Online   content
Climber

Registered: 04/08/19
Posts: 783
Loc: Far Northwest AZ
Well today out of the blue I have AC problems. Driving around town, for a good 20 minutes or so. Started to notice the AC wasn’t that cold, so I set it to Max AC to see if it changed. No change. While idling it was extremely humid, and hot. While driving, it cooled down a tad, but not enough to not be miserable. Noticed my rpms would fluctuate horribly every few minutes. I mean horrible, 450 rpm difference..

Turning off the AC for about 10 minutes and turning it back on gives me around 5 minutes of cool but not cold AC until it turns back miserable.

Dug a little when I got home. The compressor clutch is staying engaged for more then 4 minutes and it’s 115 degrees out. I noticed green oil bubbling in one of the ports(high pressure port?) see picture.

After having the car sit for 30 minutes, I was able to get nice cold AC for about 20 minutes. I do not notice any leaks. I checked the radiator area, and notice nothing is in the fins and looks pretty clean.

I do not have any history when the AC was charged last.



_________________________
2010 P7B 149K. 11K hours. 3.27, RKE, Cruise, Ported stock plenum, JMod
2011 Sierra 1500 155K, too many mods to list. (RIP 01-05-2019)
2001 Durango R/T 5.9. 230K. SOLD 5-1-19

I’m a classical textbook over-thinker.


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#4072656 - 08/01/20 11:17 PM Re: AC cold for 25 minutes. [Re: TheCableGuy]
TheCableGuy Online   content
Climber

Registered: 04/08/19
Posts: 783
Loc: Far Northwest AZ
Think I’m gonna buy a pressure gauge kit from AutoZone and maybe one of those DIY kits? Who knows. Thoughts? Looking for some advise.
_________________________
2010 P7B 149K. 11K hours. 3.27, RKE, Cruise, Ported stock plenum, JMod
2011 Sierra 1500 155K, too many mods to list. (RIP 01-05-2019)
2001 Durango R/T 5.9. 230K. SOLD 5-1-19

I’m a classical textbook over-thinker.


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#4072658 - 08/02/20 12:10 AM Re: AC cold for 25 minutes. [Re: TheCableGuy]
Psxmoe Offline
Climber

Registered: 05/20/16
Posts: 559
Loc: AZ
I just had my low side Schrader Valve replaced as it was leaking, My High side schrader valve was leaking as well but only needed to be tightened.

By gauges do you mean an actual Manifold gauge set or just the one Low press gauge unit that comes with the can?
_________________________
2006 CVPI SAP 76,000 Miles, 520 Hours, BH1976 HD Light Harness, 3.27 Trac-Lok, BF Goodrich g-force COMP-2 235/55R17
Pima County, Arizona

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#4072662 - 08/02/20 01:33 AM Re: AC cold for 25 minutes. [Re: TheCableGuy]
TheCableGuy Online   content
Climber

Registered: 04/08/19
Posts: 783
Loc: Far Northwest AZ
Really stupid question but those valves can be tightened/untightened? Looks like one big assembly piece.

I was going to look for a manifold gauge set if they got em in stock. If not, the low press side in a can will have to do.
_________________________
2010 P7B 149K. 11K hours. 3.27, RKE, Cruise, Ported stock plenum, JMod
2011 Sierra 1500 155K, too many mods to list. (RIP 01-05-2019)
2001 Durango R/T 5.9. 230K. SOLD 5-1-19

I’m a classical textbook over-thinker.


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#4072666 - 08/02/20 06:34 AM Re: AC cold for 25 minutes. [Re: TheCableGuy]
Rootintootin Offline
Climber

Registered: 02/26/08
Posts: 556
Loc: North Carolina
I think he means the innards of the valve. Like on a tire valve, you can use one of those little screw tools to remove it or tighten it. Not the housing/body of the valve on the line.
_________________________
97 CVPI(Ex. Tampa PD #715), 138K miles, performance Torque converter, J-modded valve body. Monroe Gas Magnum Severe Duty shocks, Ported Plenum and 70mm FRPP Throttle body

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#4072696 - 08/02/20 12:41 PM Re: AC cold for 25 minutes. [Re: TheCableGuy]
TheCableGuy Online   content
Climber

Registered: 04/08/19
Posts: 783
Loc: Far Northwest AZ
Ahhh! Makes some sense. I’ll try to look into that.

I’m thinking what if my high pressure got too high, and it started seeping/leaking as a safety measure? Who knows. Going to AutoZone in a handful of hours.
_________________________
2010 P7B 149K. 11K hours. 3.27, RKE, Cruise, Ported stock plenum, JMod
2011 Sierra 1500 155K, too many mods to list. (RIP 01-05-2019)
2001 Durango R/T 5.9. 230K. SOLD 5-1-19

I’m a classical textbook over-thinker.


Top
#4072708 - 08/02/20 04:32 PM Re: AC cold for 25 minutes. [Re: TheCableGuy]
TheCableGuy Online   content
Climber

Registered: 04/08/19
Posts: 783
Loc: Far Northwest AZ
Guess I’ll make an update. Asking for some guidance. So my closest AutoZone suckssss. They did not have the manifold gauge kit. Told me literally an hour before I walked in that someone grabbed the last kit. So I bought one of those stupid recharge cans that only measure the low side. With the compressor running on MAX ac, the psi that that gauge was showing was 50. Mind you, the air temp outside is 116, little humidity also. With ‘Normal AC’ the gauge would read 55 and bounce to about 63 psi(little in the Red).

While all of this is happening, my AC inside the car ain’t too shabby. Bout as normal as it’s been. So I drove around town for some time, AC didn’t change. Get home, ran the car for 30 minutes with the AC on and the compressor didn’t cycle not even ONCE. Is that bad.. the clutch did not disengage at all. I don’t know if that’s normal considering the temp outside but yeah.

Now for more figures. The AC temp that’s blowing out of the vents ranged from 57 degrees F to 66F. That’s seems a little high. Didn’t add any stuff in from the can considering the numbers. I need a reading on the high side.

High side line is extremely hot. Low side is pretty cold. Still notice PAG oil seeping in the high side port. Tried tightening it, and it didn’t budge.

So I know things are hard to diagnose without anyone being here but does anyone have any tips/tricks? Thoughts?

Last resort will to take it to a shop..
_________________________
2010 P7B 149K. 11K hours. 3.27, RKE, Cruise, Ported stock plenum, JMod
2011 Sierra 1500 155K, too many mods to list. (RIP 01-05-2019)
2001 Durango R/T 5.9. 230K. SOLD 5-1-19

I’m a classical textbook over-thinker.


Top
#4072718 - 08/02/20 06:19 PM Re: AC cold for 25 minutes. [Re: TheCableGuy]
Psxmoe Offline
Climber

Registered: 05/20/16
Posts: 559
Loc: AZ
50 PSI might be to much pressure on the low side while running, but then again it was 116

Also do you have dust caps on those service ports?
As for your compressor not disengaging thats absolutely normal, unless its cold outside. Regular or MAX AC mine stays on and only turns off when i get above 3k or so RPMs




Mastercool makes decent guage sets, just make sure they include quick disconnects.

Useless info

The Pressure cut off switch and switch at the accumulator are removable, and have similar valves found in tires.

Service Switch Valve

The low side Valve takes a larger one Low Side Valve

And the High Side takes the largest High SIde Valve
_________________________
2006 CVPI SAP 76,000 Miles, 520 Hours, BH1976 HD Light Harness, 3.27 Trac-Lok, BF Goodrich g-force COMP-2 235/55R17
Pima County, Arizona

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#4072722 - 08/02/20 06:33 PM Re: AC cold for 25 minutes. [Re: TheCableGuy]
TheCableGuy Online   content
Climber

Registered: 04/08/19
Posts: 783
Loc: Far Northwest AZ
For the dust caps, the low side port has one, high side ain’t got it. On the high side(where picture is). When the AC is running it’s bubbling in that port. Now I know this isn’t good by any means but could this be causing my issues? A leak in the system that’s that small?

Maybe the high pressure switch is faulty? Lot of questions and odd possibilities.
Another thing to mention, isn’t the clutch supposed to spin freely? When the AC is off, it doesn’t spin without ease.

Really don’t want to take it to a shop(only option is Big O Tire)(hate them). Looking for a set of ‘cheap’ gauges to see the pressure on the high side.
_________________________
2010 P7B 149K. 11K hours. 3.27, RKE, Cruise, Ported stock plenum, JMod
2011 Sierra 1500 155K, too many mods to list. (RIP 01-05-2019)
2001 Durango R/T 5.9. 230K. SOLD 5-1-19

I’m a classical textbook over-thinker.


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#4072724 - 08/02/20 06:36 PM Re: AC cold for 25 minutes. [Re: TheCableGuy]
Lance01 Offline
Member

Registered: 04/02/18
Posts: 326
Loc: Pa
Edit#

I'm not the AC expert but this past month I pretty much replaced everything AC related in my 04 due to a bad AC condenser that was smashed during an accident (prior owner) and sent shrapnel that plugged up the orfice tube.

Surprisingly the AC system is easy to repair and you will save a lot of money if you just fix it yourself. The only help you will need is a shop that will evacuate the system and also recharge it with that 2k dollar machine they use.

I don't know what is exactly wrong with your system but if you just recharge the system you could possibly have the same issue down the road because you didn't fix the actual issue.

You need to find the main issue that is wrong. A bad compressor? Bad O rings? Clogged orfice tube?

Either way when the system is depressurized it's a good time to replace the orfice tube, install as many new O rings as you can and install a new accumulator. The two O rings that connect to the AC condenser I reused because the aftermarket didn't seem to be as thick but the others were ok.

A tip on the accumulator. Install it the same day you're about to recharge the system unless you know how to pull a vacuum on the ac system. The accumulator has desiccant inside of it that absorbs moisture so any prolonged exposure to air isn't a good thing.



Edited by Lance01 (08/02/20 11:33 PM)

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#4072732 - 08/02/20 07:11 PM Re: AC cold for 25 minutes. [Re: TheCableGuy]
bluejay_32 Offline
Poobah

Registered: 08/28/16
Posts: 7436
Loc: wny
Originally Posted By TheCableGuy
Ahhh! Makes some sense. I’ll try to look into that.

I’m thinking what if my high pressure got too high, and it started seeping/leaking as a safety measure? Who knows. Going to AutoZone in a handful of hours.

If pressure got too high (>400psi) it would blow the relief valve on the compressor. It should not be leaking out of the valve. Don't know if the Schrader is serviceable on these cars, but if it is you'll need the system recovered before you can change it. I would try tightening it with a long pair of needlenose pliers (I'm going to assume you don't have a large Schrader valve tool like I do) and see if it stops bubbling.

Originally Posted By TheCableGuy
Guess I’ll make an update. Asking for some guidance. So my closest AutoZone suckssss. They did not have the manifold gauge kit. Told me literally an hour before I walked in that someone grabbed the last kit. So I bought one of those stupid recharge cans that only measure the low side. With the compressor running on MAX ac, the psi that that gauge was showing was 50. Mind you, the air temp outside is 116, little humidity also. With ‘Normal AC’ the gauge would read 55 and bounce to about 63 psi(little in the Red).

While all of this is happening, my AC inside the car ain’t too shabby. Bout as normal as it’s been. So I drove around town for some time, AC didn’t change. Get home, ran the car for 30 minutes with the AC on and the compressor didn’t cycle not even ONCE. Is that bad.. the clutch did not disengage at all. I don’t know if that’s normal considering the temp outside but yeah.

Now for more figures. The AC temp that’s blowing out of the vents ranged from 57 degrees F to 66F. That’s seems a little high. Didn’t add any stuff in from the can considering the numbers. I need a reading on the high side.

High side line is extremely hot. Low side is pretty cold. Still notice PAG oil seeping in the high side port. Tried tightening it, and it didn’t budge.

So I know things are hard to diagnose without anyone being here but does anyone have any tips/tricks? Thoughts?

Last resort will to take it to a shop..

55 to 63 is a little bit high for the low side, but at 116 I can't necessarily say how much too high it is. The only thing that "MAX A/C" does compared to Normal is it closes the recirc door inside the car so that the system's drawing air from inside the cabin instead of outside the car. It doesn't change the operation of the A/C system at all. Any A/C diagnosis should always be done with it on MAX A/C and the fan on high. As far as the temperatures, I got 42 out of mine, but, that was on a day in the 80s. We don't touch 100 here but once every other year or so. If it's charged properly these compressors should not be cycling.

I feel like you should be able to get the temperature a little bit lower, though. High side line should be hot, low side line should be cold - should be gathering condensation, but if you have zero humidity, it won't.

Originally Posted By TheCableGuy
For the dust caps, the low side port has one, high side ain’t got it. On the high side(where picture is). When the AC is running it’s bubbling in that port. Now I know this isn’t good by any means but could this be causing my issues? A leak in the system that’s that small?

Maybe the high pressure switch is faulty? Lot of questions and odd possibilities.
Another thing to mention, isn’t the clutch supposed to spin freely? When the AC is off, it doesn’t spin without ease.

Really don’t want to take it to a shop(only option is Big O Tire)(hate them). Looking for a set of ‘cheap’ gauges to see the pressure on the high side.

It should have a cap on both ports. It doesn't seal the system, per se, but it helps to keep it in and keep crap out of it. I suspect you're slightly undercharged, probably as a result of the Schrader leaking.

The clutch shouldn't be hard to turn, but it shouldn't spin free, you are trying to turn the internals of the compressor, after all. There should be some resistance, but it shouldn't be a problem to turn it.


Edited by bluejay_32 (08/02/20 07:13 PM)
_________________________
2008 Grand Marquis - bought 7/29/16 - 60,210 mi
Inaugural CVNw POTM - December 2018 slug
CVN POTM - February 2019 joy





Originally Posted By IPreferDIY
Sounds like time-wasting gossip to me.

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#4072742 - 08/02/20 09:19 PM Re: AC cold for 25 minutes. [Re: TheCableGuy]
TheCableGuy Online   content
Climber

Registered: 04/08/19
Posts: 783
Loc: Far Northwest AZ
Thank you for that info BlueJay. Much appreciated.

Unfortunately, I get back to work tomorrow and won’t get too much time to mess with it for a week or so.

I have decided that I will take it to Big O, have them look at it and hopefully maybe give me a general idea what’s up. I do have my guy who works for Ford, so I’ll reach out to him tomorrow and see what he says. Wonder how much they charge for a recharge anyway, he gives me his 50% discount haha. Pays off to have connections.

Yeah I don’t have the proper tool but I jimmy rigged one. It didn’t budge when I tried to tighten it. I might try to buy the connect tool and go from there.

This heat sucks, like really sucks.
_________________________
2010 P7B 149K. 11K hours. 3.27, RKE, Cruise, Ported stock plenum, JMod
2011 Sierra 1500 155K, too many mods to list. (RIP 01-05-2019)
2001 Durango R/T 5.9. 230K. SOLD 5-1-19

I’m a classical textbook over-thinker.


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#4072744 - 08/02/20 10:03 PM Re: AC cold for 25 minutes. [Re: TheCableGuy]
Rootintootin Offline
Climber

Registered: 02/26/08
Posts: 556
Loc: North Carolina
Any numbers I'm giving you come out of the shop manual for my 97. There might be some small differences from other years, but it won't be much, if any. The principles of the system are the same.

A properly charged system should have a static pressure of 60-80 psig. You won't be able to measure this without a gauge on both the high side and the low side. This is just what should be in the system without the a/c running. You can measure this when you are checking for leaks in the system. If the numbers are way low or even zero, you can hook up your refrigerant canister or cylinder to the yellow hose on the manifold gauge set and open the low side port to allow cylinder pressure into the system. This should give you enough pressure to help find the leak.

Low side pressure is controlled by the cycling switch, which operates in a range. When the compressor is running, it will draw down the pressure on the low side to about 22-28 psig. At that point, the contacts in the switch will open and cut off electricity to the a/c clutch field coils, stopping the compressor. Now, the pressure is building back up until it reaches a range of 40-47 psig, when the contacts will close and re-energize the clutch field coils. This repeats within that range of pressures. Even if you only have a gauge on the low side, you should see the change on the gauge as the pressure rises and falls. The only fly in this ointment is when it is above 80°F ambient, there probably won't be any cycling as the compressor will be on continuously. Certainly at 115°F. Also, it doesn't matter how hot the ambient temperature is, but it does matter how cold it is. When the temp drops to about 45-50°F outside, the contacts in the switch won't close.

High side pressure is controlled by the pressure cut-off switch you don't have the cap for, and the pressure relief valve. The switch opens the circuit to the cycling switch if the discharge pressure gets to about 400-450psig. If the switch fails and it goes past that, the relief valve in the compressor manifold and tube will vent the excess pressure to the atmosphere. That means you are going to loose some of your refrigerant. But it will close when the pressure drops below the threshold of the valve, so it should be minimal. Normal high side pressure will also operate within a range, usually from about 75-175 psig down in the 60's up to about 200-300 psig at 100°F. The charts stop at 100°F, but once you get in that range, the pressures are starting to climb faster. I can see how it would go all the way up to 400 psig.

You should be able to get a cap from Ford or any auto parts store. Mine are color coded. Red on the high side, blue on the low side. Matches the standard colors of the quick disconnects of the manifold gauge set.

I keep a pencil gauge in one of the dash registers, just to see if the numbers change any from what I am used to seeing. It's been 7-8 years since I did any work on my a/c and I normally get 40-42°F out of the dash. That's on MAX A/C, temp knob all the way cold, and fan on 2. If I run the fan all the way to 4, I can get it down to 33-34°F coming out of the dash. But that will fog up my windows if I do that at night when It isn't so hot out. We normally see day temps here from the upper 80's to mid to upper 90's, so it's not as drastic as in the desert. You have a lot more to work against.
_________________________
97 CVPI(Ex. Tampa PD #715), 138K miles, performance Torque converter, J-modded valve body. Monroe Gas Magnum Severe Duty shocks, Ported Plenum and 70mm FRPP Throttle body

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#4072764 - 08/02/20 11:36 PM Re: AC cold for 25 minutes. [Re: TheCableGuy]
Lance01 Offline
Member

Registered: 04/02/18
Posts: 326
Loc: Pa
Originally Posted By TheCableGuy
For the dust caps, the low side port has one, high side ain’t got it. On the high side(where picture is). When the AC is running it’s bubbling in that port. Now I know this isn’t good by any means but could this be causing my issues? A leak in the system that’s that small?

Maybe the high pressure switch is faulty? Lot of questions and odd possibilities.
Another thing to mention, isn’t the clutch supposed to spin freely? When the AC is off, it doesn’t spin without ease.

Really don’t want to take it to a shop(only option is Big O Tire)(hate them). Looking for a set of ‘cheap’ gauges to see the pressure on the high side.


You can get a cheap manifold guage set at Harbor Freight.

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#4072772 - 08/03/20 12:25 AM Re: AC cold for 25 minutes. [Re: TheCableGuy]
TheCableGuy Online   content
Climber

Registered: 04/08/19
Posts: 783
Loc: Far Northwest AZ
No Harbor Freight round’ here for 100 miles. Haha.
_________________________
2010 P7B 149K. 11K hours. 3.27, RKE, Cruise, Ported stock plenum, JMod
2011 Sierra 1500 155K, too many mods to list. (RIP 01-05-2019)
2001 Durango R/T 5.9. 230K. SOLD 5-1-19

I’m a classical textbook over-thinker.


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