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#4085110 - 11/20/20 03:52 PM Intake Manifold Replacement
quedog07 Offline
n00b

Registered: 09/26/19
Posts: 12
Loc: Memphis, TN
Just found out I was leaking coolant from the thermostat housing on my intake manifold on my 2004...guess its time to replace it. I been looking at previous post on doing the job and what to buy but they seem outdated and scattered. For an updated post, I am looking into buying the FRPP manifold and want to upgrade the TB as well since it will be all broke down. What all exactly do I need to buy to pull this off including the correct manifold, gaskets, and TB upgrade. Thanks!
_________________________
2003 P71-Big Red
170k miles
3.27 Trac-Lok
Pioneer receiver, door,& back speakers
LED Taillights

2004 P71-Merlot
145k miles
24" DUBs
Pioneer Receiver, door & back speakers
2-Fubr 12s
LED Taillights


FIETTS

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Links
#4085120 - 11/20/20 05:50 PM Re: Intake Manifold Replacement [Re: quedog07]
Davidzq Offline
Member

Registered: 01/19/15
Posts: 287
Loc: Seattle, WA
Manifold, gaskets, T-stat, heater return pipe (underneath the manifold).
Good time to do plugs and coil boots.

Stock TB is 65mm.
ADTR.net has several options for replacements.
Be aware that a larger TB won't provide any power gains, but it will give quicker throttle response.
_________________________
David Hensley
Member of Northwest Panthers Car Club

2007 P71, Norsea Blue SAP
-Jmod
-Message Center cluster retrofit
-All interior lighting converted to blue
-Lincoln towncar seats, heated and power passenger
-Self installed Compustar remote start/security
-Full dynamat install
-Full interior swap from tan to charcoal
-Trailer hitch/light controller/AirLift assist bags
-Headlight relay mod

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#4085152 - 11/20/20 11:17 PM Re: Intake Manifold Replacement [Re: Davidzq]
quedog07 Offline
n00b

Registered: 09/26/19
Posts: 12
Loc: Memphis, TN
This is what I currently have in my shopping cart:

Ford Racing PI Intake Manifold (M-9424-P46)
FelPro Intake Manifold Gasket Set (MS96281)
(2) Fel-Pro Fuel Injector O-Ring Kit (ES 70599)

Will be flushing the cooling system so this is also needed:

180 Degree Motorcraft Thermostat (RT1234)
Motorcraft Thermostat Housing Gasket (RG571)
2 Gallons of Motorcraft Gold Coolant (VC7B)

I recently did the plugs and coils so no need unless coolant has seeped in the plug holes or contaminated the coils. Many have said the heater pipe doesn't need to be replaced due to the material of it and unlikely chance of it failing.

I do want to upgrade the TB to 70mm since I have 24" rims on it. Better throttle response will be appreciated lol. I am browsing options and instructions for that as well. Any tips in upgrading this? I read that it is a simple bolt for a 2004.
_________________________
2003 P71-Big Red
170k miles
3.27 Trac-Lok
Pioneer receiver, door,& back speakers
LED Taillights

2004 P71-Merlot
145k miles
24" DUBs
Pioneer Receiver, door & back speakers
2-Fubr 12s
LED Taillights


FIETTS

Top
#4085170 - 11/21/20 02:02 AM Re: Intake Manifold Replacement [Re: quedog07]
Davidzq Offline
Member

Registered: 01/19/15
Posts: 287
Loc: Seattle, WA
I've seen many rusted/failing heater pipes. Not nearly as common as the intake manifold itself, but it does happen. It's a pretty cheap part, so it's one of those "while you're in there" items.

Careful with that 180° T-stat. Stock is 195°. Going that low can trigger a code/CEL (engine failing to reach operating temp/stuck open T-stat).
Lower temp will give you a couple more HP, but at the cost of some MPG.


Throttle body is pretty simple bolt on swap. Find one you like. Better when combined with a ported plenum (or TB/plenum combo unit).
_________________________
David Hensley
Member of Northwest Panthers Car Club

2007 P71, Norsea Blue SAP
-Jmod
-Message Center cluster retrofit
-All interior lighting converted to blue
-Lincoln towncar seats, heated and power passenger
-Self installed Compustar remote start/security
-Full dynamat install
-Full interior swap from tan to charcoal
-Trailer hitch/light controller/AirLift assist bags
-Headlight relay mod

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#4085182 - 11/21/20 11:22 AM Re: Intake Manifold Replacement [Re: quedog07]
CrystalPistol Offline

Over the Hill

Registered: 10/16/01
Posts: 2311
Loc: The Shenandoah Valley of Va.
Even with a 195 thermostat, my '01 Mercury runs 188-190 if moving, even on hot days. My wife and puppy wanted to stay in the car when I visited the "Planes of Fame" museum in Arizona, I popped the hood up to safety latch (learned to do that with police cars when working a wreck, etc on hot summer days with vest, etc on, worked for GM, Mopar, Fomoco cars over 31 years), let car idle, Max AC as it was like 99 outside temp, I toured good two hours as I did tour both parts, came out to a cold interior and 194 on the SG.

Same 195 thermostat in my '95 T-bird, it runs 195 or even 200 up hill, but it will drop to 188 down grade. Had I been in the T-bird that day in Arizona, I expect it would have been 210 easy as I've seen that in stop & go traffic on hot days here when AC at work. It acts a little like a '81 Z-28 Camaro "ghost car" we had, would overheat real fast.

Point being, the Thermostats seam to agree, but the Merc's likely larger radiator … or maybe it's better exposure … tells the tale it seams to me. Temps from ScanGageII. 188 is where both seam to start open, I think the 195 is the better choice for a DD too.


Edited by CrystalPistol (11/21/20 11:37 AM)
_________________________

2001 MercGM since 2001, 93K miles, Addco F&R, Bilstein HDs, J-mod, factory duals, Reese Hidden Hitch, AirLifts, Weathertech, XM, easy on gas, 17x7s with Goodyear RS-As make a smooth ride. All as of January 2020




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#4085188 - 11/21/20 03:16 PM Re: Intake Manifold Replacement [Re: CrystalPistol]
quedog07 Offline
n00b

Registered: 09/26/19
Posts: 12
Loc: Memphis, TN
My apologies. The RT1234 is the 192° thermostat. On the heater pipe I will take my chances. The car was a previous detective car so it wasn't used heavily as a patrol vehicle. If it needs to be replaced once upon inspection, I will just order one or see if a local store has it. I already ordered everything so now I just have to wait until after Thanksgiving for the parts to come. Until then, Big Red gets the driving. I will update once I start or finish the job. I will skip the 70mm TB "upgrade" for now.
_________________________
2003 P71-Big Red
170k miles
3.27 Trac-Lok
Pioneer receiver, door,& back speakers
LED Taillights

2004 P71-Merlot
145k miles
24" DUBs
Pioneer Receiver, door & back speakers
2-Fubr 12s
LED Taillights


FIETTS

Top
#4085218 - 11/22/20 12:25 AM Re: Intake Manifold Replacement [Re: quedog07]
Lance01 Offline
Member

Registered: 04/02/18
Posts: 390
Loc: Pa
I just did this job for a second time with no problems.

For starters just take your time and make sure you have all the parts and tools you need before you start including a fuel rail disconnect tool that fits for the size you need.

Alright, so even though you're just replacing the intake manifold now is a good time to replace the water pump, serpentine belt, belt tensioner, spark plugs, hoses, and fill her up with fresh new 50/50 g-05 zerex coolant. Sounds like a lot but everything i just listed is going to be right there and now is just a good time to do it if any of the components are reaching the end of their respective service life.

Literally the hardest part of the job will be removing the one bolt that is holding the crash bracket on the drivers side of the back of the engine block near the firewall. Its just in a odd area and the bolt might be in tight. Everything else is a cakewalk of just unplugging all the sensors,hoses removal of 9 intake bolts, 8 ignition coil bolts and other various bolts and fasteners.


I will post more info as I get more time but lastly to start on your parts list get the Ford intake manifold gaskets. I first used the Felpro gaskets but overtime they gave me problems. I got my Ford gaskets from the dealer for about 68 dollars which are triple the price of the Felpro but its probably for a reason.


Edited by Lance01 (11/22/20 12:45 AM)

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#4085228 - 11/22/20 01:41 PM Re: Intake Manifold Replacement [Re: Lance01]
CrystalPistol Offline

Over the Hill

Registered: 10/16/01
Posts: 2311
Loc: The Shenandoah Valley of Va.
Originally Posted By Lance01
I just did this job for a second time with no problems.

For starters just take your time and make sure you have all the parts and tools you need before you start including a fuel rail disconnect tool that fits for the size you need.

Alright, so even though you're just replacing the intake manifold now is a good time to replace the water pump, serpentine belt, belt tensioner, spark plugs, hoses, and fill her up with fresh new 50/50 g-05 zerex coolant. Sounds like a lot but everything i just listed is going to be right there and now is just a good time to do it if any of the components are reaching the end of their respective service life.

Literally the hardest part of the job will be removing the one bolt that is holding the crash bracket on the drivers side of the back of the engine block near the firewall. Its just in a odd area and the bolt might be in tight. Everything else is a cakewalk of just unplugging all the sensors, hoses removal of 9 intake bolts, 8 ignition coil bolts and other various bolts and fasteners.


I will post more info as I get more time but lastly to start on your parts list get the Ford intake manifold gaskets. I first used the Felpro gaskets but overtime they gave me problems. I got my Ford gaskets from the dealer for about 68 dollars which are triple the price of the Felpro but its probably for a reason.
I have the higher priced of the FelPro gaskets, the ones with the aluminum frame work (FELPRO-MS98008T1 ... and they cost me 2x) around the rubber seals. I think the cheaper (FELPRO-Fel-MS96281) ones have a plastic frame work? Wondering which ones you had problems with?

Otherwise, looking forwards to your follow up too.


Edited by CrystalPistol (11/22/20 01:45 PM)
_________________________

2001 MercGM since 2001, 93K miles, Addco F&R, Bilstein HDs, J-mod, factory duals, Reese Hidden Hitch, AirLifts, Weathertech, XM, easy on gas, 17x7s with Goodyear RS-As make a smooth ride. All as of January 2020




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#4085242 - 11/22/20 04:03 PM Re: Intake Manifold Replacement [Re: CrystalPistol]
Lance01 Offline
Member

Registered: 04/02/18
Posts: 390
Loc: Pa
Originally Posted By CrystalPistol
Originally Posted By Lance01
I just did this job for a second time with no problems.

For starters just take your time and make sure you have all the parts and tools you need before you start including a fuel rail disconnect tool that fits for the size you need.

Alright, so even though you're just replacing the intake manifold now is a good time to replace the water pump, serpentine belt, belt tensioner, spark plugs, hoses, and fill her up with fresh new 50/50 g-05 zerex coolant. Sounds like a lot but everything i just listed is going to be right there and now is just a good time to do it if any of the components are reaching the end of their respective service life.

Literally the hardest part of the job will be removing the one bolt that is holding the crash bracket on the drivers side of the back of the engine block near the firewall. Its just in a odd area and the bolt might be in tight. Everything else is a cakewalk of just unplugging all the sensors, hoses removal of 9 intake bolts, 8 ignition coil bolts and other various bolts and fasteners.


I will post more info as I get more time but lastly to start on your parts list get the Ford intake manifold gaskets. I first used the Felpro gaskets but overtime they gave me problems. I got my Ford gaskets from the dealer for about 68 dollars which are triple the price of the Felpro but its probably for a reason.
I have the higher priced of the FelPro gaskets, the ones with the aluminum frame work (FELPRO-MS98008T1 ... and they cost me 2x) around the rubber seals. I think the cheaper (FELPRO-Fel-MS96281) ones have a plastic frame work? Wondering which ones you had problems with?

Otherwise, looking forwards to your follow up too.


Just a quick reply. I noticed you have a 2001 MGM and I looked up your parts on RockAuto and the FEL-PRO gaskets that are listed for your engine aren't listed for mine and I don't know why.

The FEL-PRO gasket that I used that gave me problems was part number: FEL-PRO MS96281


I looked on Tasca for gaskets for a 2001 MGM and the Ford left side only is $20 so both sides you're looking at $40 for the Ford gaskets online and probably $60+ at the dealer.

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/for...TQtNmwtdjgtZ2Fz


Edited by Lance01 (11/22/20 04:07 PM)

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#4085250 - 11/22/20 05:40 PM Re: Intake Manifold Replacement [Re: Lance01]
CrystalPistol Offline

Over the Hill

Registered: 10/16/01
Posts: 2311
Loc: The Shenandoah Valley of Va.
Originally Posted By Lance01

Just a quick reply. I noticed you have a 2001 MGM and I looked up your parts on RockAuto and the FEL-PRO gaskets that are listed for your engine aren't listed for mine and I don't know why.

The FEL-PRO gasket that I used that gave me problems was part number: FEL-PRO MS96281
I can't explain that, PI 4.6 ... should use either. I just looked them up, something about 2003 or 2004 changed? Maybe throttle body seal?

I see what you say ... they list the FEL-PRO MS98008T1 for
FORD CROWN VICTORIA 2001-2003
FORD MUSTANG 2001-2004
LINCOLN TOWN CAR 2001-2004
MERCURY GRAND MARQUIS 2001-2003
... but then they show the FEL-PRO MS96281 for
FORD CROWN VICTORIA 2004-2011
FORD E-150 2004-2007
FORD E-250 2004-2007
FORD E-350 2004-2007
FORD E-450 2004-2007
FORD EXPLORER 2002-2005
LINCOLN TOWN CAR 2005-2011
MERCURY GRAND MARQUIS 2004-2011
MERCURY MOUNTAINEER 2002-2005

Beats me.


Edited by CrystalPistol (11/22/20 06:00 PM)
_________________________

2001 MercGM since 2001, 93K miles, Addco F&R, Bilstein HDs, J-mod, factory duals, Reese Hidden Hitch, AirLifts, Weathertech, XM, easy on gas, 17x7s with Goodyear RS-As make a smooth ride. All as of January 2020




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#4085358 - 11/23/20 02:51 PM Re: Intake Manifold Replacement [Re: Lance01]
quedog07 Offline
n00b

Registered: 09/26/19
Posts: 12
Loc: Memphis, TN
What is the fuel rail disconnect tool?

I already changed everything you spoke of except the water pump which I will wait until it fails to change it.
_________________________
2003 P71-Big Red
170k miles
3.27 Trac-Lok
Pioneer receiver, door,& back speakers
LED Taillights

2004 P71-Merlot
145k miles
24" DUBs
Pioneer Receiver, door & back speakers
2-Fubr 12s
LED Taillights


FIETTS

Top
#4085366 - 11/23/20 04:10 PM Re: Intake Manifold Replacement [Re: quedog07]
TheShadow Offline

Over the Hill

Registered: 05/01/07
Posts: 1646
Loc: SoCal High Desert
_________________________
'95 P71, 5xx,xxx miles, Rebuilt tranny, 2.73. Lives as a cab, and will die as a cab. (Died-FrontEnder)
'96 P71, 640,xxx on original drivetrain. (Now parts car - T-bone & roll)(You should see the roof - A,B & C-pillars chopped on driver side)
New to list: '96 MGM (Nice! @ 35x,xxx), '97 CV P71, '98 CV P71, '00 CV P71, 01 P71 (2 of 'em) '03 CV P71 (Nice so far) (All Ford Zinc Yellow w/Black decals & trim) And the list is growing...........
Taxicab mechanic: I HATE DRIVERS!

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#4085372 - 11/23/20 05:44 PM Re: Intake Manifold Replacement [Re: quedog07]
CrystalPistol Offline

Over the Hill

Registered: 10/16/01
Posts: 2311
Loc: The Shenandoah Valley of Va.
I've got disconnect tools, but I see many just carefully place it over to the passenger fender side leaving it connected, but do take pressure off either with shrader valve ... or running car with fuel pump safety switch tripped until it dies.
_________________________

2001 MercGM since 2001, 93K miles, Addco F&R, Bilstein HDs, J-mod, factory duals, Reese Hidden Hitch, AirLifts, Weathertech, XM, easy on gas, 17x7s with Goodyear RS-As make a smooth ride. All as of January 2020




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#4085414 - 11/23/20 11:14 PM Re: Intake Manifold Replacement [Re: quedog07]
Lance01 Offline
Member

Registered: 04/02/18
Posts: 390
Loc: Pa
Ok so there isn't much I really need to further contribute because between the BOK (Body of Knowledge) on this forum and the factory service manual you should be set straight in terms of what exactly you need to do (i.e., bolt tightening sequence).

Just remember:

Relieve the fuel pressure before you work on the fuel system. With the car in park and engine running open the trunk and look for the small black box on the left with the red button. Use a screw driver to push up on the button. The screw driver will fit exactly in a tab right on the side of the button. That's where you push up on it. Once done you will hear the fuel pump turn off and the engine will die/power down within about 1 minute. After your work is complete press that red button to turn the fuel cut off switch back on.


Now this is optional:

When you remove your intake manifold you will notice something underneath it. I'm not sure exactly what its called but is basically a heat shield. If it's in good shape you can keep it and install it with your new one. If it's in really bad shape you can discard it. But if you want to upgrade with something better buy some heatshield material from a company called Heatshield Products and buy enough product to fabricate it to fit underneath your new intake manifold. The Mustang guys are getting up to 13hp increase using this exact product.

I was in a time crunch so I couldn't do it but I'm replacing my alternator in about a week so I will see if I have enough room to put some of the product underneath with the alternator removed. It gets really hot underneath there so some product is probably better then nothing in terms of making as much pure hp.



https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hsp-140014


https://www.fordmuscle.com/project-cars/...old-heatshield/


Edited by Lance01 (11/23/20 11:28 PM)

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#4085456 - 11/24/20 12:11 PM Re: Intake Manifold Replacement [Re: quedog07]
CrystalPistol Offline

Over the Hill

Registered: 10/16/01
Posts: 2311
Loc: The Shenandoah Valley of Va.
I think the foam under the '03 and newer 4.6s was to insulate the knock sensor from possibly detecting vibrations from the passage of air through the intake immediately above and possibly retarding timing prematurely.
_________________________

2001 MercGM since 2001, 93K miles, Addco F&R, Bilstein HDs, J-mod, factory duals, Reese Hidden Hitch, AirLifts, Weathertech, XM, easy on gas, 17x7s with Goodyear RS-As make a smooth ride. All as of January 2020




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