#4088914 - 12/25/20 05:27 PM
Repainting CVPI in Peelformance White
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Rookie
Registered: 12/30/19
Posts: 95
Loc: NJ
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Hey all.
So I have a 2007 with 165k currently on the clock (I got it at 156k at the end of January.) I am planning on keeping this car as long as the body and frame survive being in NJ, and it is my daily driver - I put 200-300 miles a week on it. They brine the roads constantly here so I know it will only survive 5, MAYBE 10 years at best before it's eaten by that crap. I only paid about $1500 for it after sale, auction fee, and DMV fees. The drivetrain is in great shape, rear whines but my mechanic said it didn't look bad, just worn from being a high mileage highway cruiser - I'll just change the gear oil every 20-30k and pray the bearings don't go. Trans got replaced ~50k ago and the engine is in great condition.
Unfortunately, it has the dreaded Peelformance White issues. The PD I bought it from tried to remedy this multiple times with spray cans, but those spots have now lifted off and chipped even worse than they probably were before they spray canned it. I also tried to spray can it about 6 months ago, and unfortunately these spots again are lifting/cracking and will probably start to chip in the next 6 months or year. There were multiple smaller spots that I didn't attempt to fix from where their pinstrip was removed, as well. The driver's side front and rear doors were replaced in the summer with doors off my wrecked 08 due to a parking lot incident, so they are in far better shape than the rest of the car, and could PROBABLY just be scuffed and resprayed as there's no peeling on them. The rest of the car though, is bad.
The more pressing issue, though, is that from sitting during the COVID lockdown as I was out of work, iron/oxidation rusting has begun on the roof and C pillars. I live on the beach so sand, dirt, etc is often flying and for some time car washes were closed here and we can't wash our cars at this condo. I have tried Iron-X knockoffs and it has helped keep the rust on the roof from spreading too bad, but there are some spots that seem they are somehow rusted down to the sheet metal. There are only two holes in the roof, one from the lightbar that they plugged and RTV'd over, and one from an antenna mount that I just slapped an old antenna onto but would probably opt to remove the mount and fill the hole if I was going to get it repainted. No trunk holes.
It also has the dreaded rear dog leg rot, on the passenger side. It's not rotted all the way through to the other side by any means, but there's a BIC lighter sized hole in it, probably only about 2 inches deep into the dog leg. The rockers are both half eaten away, but the rest of the body is pretty clean. Wheelwell lips are good, the driver side rear dog leg is good, etc.
Now here's where my issue comes in. Being that I only paid $1500 title tags out the door, and I live in NJ with the brine crap, I don't really want to drop $1500-3000 on an AMAZING paint job with the body work done by a shop. I am planning to do a lot of the body work myself and then just take it to Maaco. I'll most likely be doing this after winter, as it's currently ~30-40F here everyday and raining off and on. Started snowing earlier today too. I want to go with a color like DTR, Norsea Blue, or that Metallic Silver I've seen some cars have (I think it's Silver Birch or something?.)
But how do I go about all this body work? I know realistically the car SHOULD probably be totally stripped down to the bare metal and totally reprimed and repainted. I guess I could go this route, I would just most likely have to do it panel by panel and would be driving the car around with diff panels in primer until I get it all completed and get it taken in to be resprayed. Would this be the best option, although not aesthetically pleasing (even compared to the leopard spotted paint now?)
The dogleg, I'm not sure how the best way to go about dealing with this would be as I don't have the time or tools to cut one off a donor car and cut mine out and weld the donor in (and let's be honest, being in NJ, I doubt I will find a clean one in a junkyard anyway.) I would assume cleaning it out the best I can with a sanding/grinding wheel, spraying rust inhibitor in it, filling it with bondo, then primer and sanding even would probably be the best way to go?
As far as the roof holes, I have seen people taking small pieces of sheet metal, JB welding it in from the underside of the roof, and then doing a couple heavy coats of primer (or filling the gap with bondo bondo) and sanding it down flush with the rest of the roof. Would this also be the best option of doing this on the cheap, if I didn't want to just RTV new plugs in and paint over them?
Edited by jasonp1102 (12/25/20 05:32 PM)
_________________________
2007 Ford CVPI, Peelformance White, 186k/951hr - Daily Driver - 01/20-Present
2008 Ford CVPI, Performance White (paint was great), 104k/3898hr - RIP 10/19-01/20, front end accident
1997 Mercury Grand Marquis, Black, ~145k (odometer died at 111k) - RIP 07/13-12/19, rust, bad suspension, bad O2 wiring
1998 Ford Taurus - RIP 01/10-06/13, blown head gasket and warped heads
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#4088958 - 12/26/20 11:32 AM
Re: Repainting CVPI in Peelformance White
[Re: jasonp1102]
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Rookie
Registered: 06/15/18
Posts: 51
Loc: Saskatchewan
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Boy that’s a tall order. I dealt with same issues last winter. Had to make replacement pieces out 20gauge and butt weld in. I personally don’t like the hack n pack style but if I was forced to do it at gun point I would clean the heck out of dogleg, neutralize rust and slop in fibreglass long strand filler. Harder to work with but waterproof. I use it over all my welds. The rockers are covered and out of site so I would probably use por15 on everything I could reach. Buy you some time. Whether to strip to substrate or scuff and paint is very subjective. An ass covering hot shot painter is probably going to want it stripped. For those holes in the roof I think you should butt weld them in. No lap weld No epoxy. I’m no pro but that’s a half hour job not including removing liner and refinishing.
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03 marauder
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#4089058 - 12/26/20 09:44 PM
Re: Repainting CVPI in Peelformance White
[Re: jasonp1102]
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Over the Hill
Registered: 11/13/19
Posts: 1420
Loc: Utah
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Really tough conundrum you have there. Pictures would help, but it sounds like you have more peeling and rot issues than simple rattle can patching will fix.
I buy a lot of P71's in performance/oxford white and I've gotten quite good at a patch method with primers/paints/clearcoats that it's taken me sometime to perfect. Sometimes you can't tell what I've painted at all, and never in photos, but at the worst my patches will only have a slight shade/tone of white difference and the gloss/shine will be perfect. My patches when done have never impeded my ability to resell the cars.
None of that will help you though. Maaco is going to be a grand if you fix the rot. Better jobs much more, as you know. Like you, I'd be hard pressed to pull the trigger on that much money for a higher mileage Vic that will just rot some more in the Jersey shore salt.
I went through 3 performance white Vics, each one a bit better than the last until I got my current 08 with perfect paint, like your wrecked 08. Was there something special about that year? All the others I've owned peeled like crazy.
Instead, if I were you I think I'd spend 2K on another dry-climate Vic with less miles and drive it home. Sell your current one for what you can get out of it and you'd be OOP maybe only a grand. Faster and much less elbow grease.
_________________________
 1) 2002 White P71 - 89K miles. 2) 2003 B&W P71 - 74K. 3) & 6) & 11) 2005 White P71 - 54K, 74k, 115K. 4) 2011 Black P7B - 79K. 5) 2008 White P71 - 95k. 7) 2004 Silver P71 - 104K. 8) 2004 DT Red LX Sport - 111K. 9) & 10) 2010 White P7B SAP - 104K & 106K. 12) 2006 White P71 - scrapped. 13) 2007 Gray LX Sport - 125k. 14) 2006 White MGM LS Premium - 93k. 15) & 16) 2009 White P71 SAPs - 109k & 94k, 17) 2011 White P7B SAP - 67k, 18) 1994 Blue LX Aero - scrapped, 19) 2007 Oreo P71 - 100k, 20) 2007 White LTC Signature -98k, 21) 2004 Silver Marauder - 142k.
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#4089064 - 12/26/20 10:17 PM
Re: Repainting CVPI in Peelformance White
[Re: Dmblanch]
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Rookie
Registered: 12/30/19
Posts: 95
Loc: NJ
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I'm really looking to color change the car. I'd just vinyl wrap it with my homegirl that has wrapped her car a bunch of times just for the cost of the wrap, but I know it's going to look like dogshit with all the peeling patches on it. But I'm pretty set on getting away from white, I've never been a big fan of white to begin with on cars and a white Vic on the highway here screams "slow down" to most people unfortunately as they're still used by State Police and other various depts.
My 08 was an unmarked spare for the dept I bought it from, it only saw active street duty for the last year of it's life and they had left it unmarked and without the divider in it. That probably explains why the paint was in great shape besides some scuffs and scratches on mine. I actually swapped the trunk lid from that car over to this 07, because the 07's had huge chips from where they pulled the decal off (and the Ford emblem was missing too.)
I don't mind spending the time and energy on doing the prep and then dropping ~$1k at Maaco. It's not worth dropping more than that into it, but to color change it to a color I like and make it look halfway decent for the next ~5 years, I'm willing to drop the $600-1000 for Maaco's cheapie special.
Unfortunately it's gotten harder and harder to find lower mileage decent Vics, both in my area (South NJ, I've also been looking at DE/MD/PA listings) as well as down by my parents (about an hour outside of Orlando.) If you do find them, they're going for $3-4k now. I've put ~$500 in various fluid changes etc and just dropped another $600 for tires and an alignment in 2 weeks on it since I got it. Given that I've had it for a year and the drivetrain is pretty solid, I've basically accepted that this will probably be my last Panther (unless I can find a non-clapped-out Marquis or LTC down in Florida in the next few years and have my parents store it.)
I can get some pictures tomorrow. Honestly, the body isn't SUPER bad, I have definitely seen a lot worse, with bigger chips - there's a lot of oddball chips that would have to be dealt with, and one huge cracked/peeling spot between the gas door and the taillight. The roof is my most major concern tbh - I absolutely do not want the roof to start rotting out like you see those rust stripes down it on some Vics. Right now, it's just a bunch of dots, like blood splatter, of rust.
Edited by jasonp1102 (12/26/20 10:19 PM)
_________________________
2007 Ford CVPI, Peelformance White, 186k/951hr - Daily Driver - 01/20-Present
2008 Ford CVPI, Performance White (paint was great), 104k/3898hr - RIP 10/19-01/20, front end accident
1997 Mercury Grand Marquis, Black, ~145k (odometer died at 111k) - RIP 07/13-12/19, rust, bad suspension, bad O2 wiring
1998 Ford Taurus - RIP 01/10-06/13, blown head gasket and warped heads
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#4089206 - 12/28/20 02:20 PM
Re: Repainting CVPI in Peelformance White
[Re: jasonp1102]
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Over the Hill
Registered: 11/13/19
Posts: 1420
Loc: Utah
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Boy, there are good low miles Vics all over out here in the west.
I just bought my 7th at auction from my hometown PD for $2009. They WAY over-sold its flaws in the on line description saying it had a "loud grinding growling noise under the hood" (translation - light wheel bearing grind), "peeling paint" (trans.- about 1 square inch strip at edge of rear window), and "check engine light on" (trans.- It wasn't on and no codes stored in the OBD2). No upholstery tears, carpet, 104K miles, Eagle RS's with about 80% left.
Edited by Dmblanch (12/28/20 02:20 PM)
_________________________
1) 2002 White P71 - 89K miles. 2) 2003 B&W P71 - 74K. 3) & 6) & 11) 2005 White P71 - 54K, 74k, 115K. 4) 2011 Black P7B - 79K. 5) 2008 White P71 - 95k. 7) 2004 Silver P71 - 104K. 8) 2004 DT Red LX Sport - 111K. 9) & 10) 2010 White P7B SAP - 104K & 106K. 12) 2006 White P71 - scrapped. 13) 2007 Gray LX Sport - 125k. 14) 2006 White MGM LS Premium - 93k. 15) & 16) 2009 White P71 SAPs - 109k & 94k, 17) 2011 White P7B SAP - 67k, 18) 1994 Blue LX Aero - scrapped, 19) 2007 Oreo P71 - 100k, 20) 2007 White LTC Signature -98k, 21) 2004 Silver Marauder - 142k.
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#4089216 - 12/28/20 04:13 PM
Re: Repainting CVPI in Peelformance White
[Re: jasonp1102]
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Over the Hill
Registered: 03/13/09
Posts: 1100
Loc: CA
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Mines also had the peeling white paint when I bought it. I had it repainted at a decent Maaco here. I did the "mid-grade package special" for about $1,200. I only did it because the car was in otherwise immaculate shape (Deputy Chief admin state car with the black velour interior) and I knew I was going to keep it a LONG time. 4 years later, it's still looking good but mines is always garaged at home and I am OCD about all my cars.
Edited by metro21 (12/28/20 04:15 PM)
_________________________
Pantherless as of Feb. 2021
Formerly Owned Panthers: Gold 00 CVPI SAP, Black 05 CVPI SAP, White 07 CVPI SAP
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#4089262 - 12/29/20 01:56 AM
Re: Repainting CVPI in Peelformance White
[Re: Dmblanch]
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Rookie
Registered: 12/30/19
Posts: 95
Loc: NJ
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It'd be far easier for me to have my father (a mechanic for 40 years and has worked on plenty of these so he knows how they should drive, feel, etc) go look at a few, pick the best one and store it (and eventually I'd spend $100 on a plane ticket and drive it back up here) than for me to take a chance on having one shipped from the west, or to have to take multiple days off of work to fly out west and check them out myself.
I check out auction sites on the weekly. The market for Vics has gotten far smaller than it was even a year ago, and they are going for crazy prices now here. SAPs that a year ago would go for $2000-2500 are now going for $3800-4500, directly from auction.
My 2008 had 101k on it when I got it and the paint was literally immaculate. They had no records on it but told me it was mainly a spare for the dept until the last year or so of it's life where it was an unmarked, uncaged patrol car, where it only got driven ~5k (super small town, probably not even 4sq miles.) Looking at the Carfax on it, I don't know how much maintenance was REALLY done to it, so while it drove fine, by now it may have developed problems, who knows.
My 2007 is higher mileage but the drivetrain is basically immaculate. They replaced the transmission 3yrs/50k ago. Engine was well taken care of. The rear whines but my mechanic said it should be good for the life of the car, realistically, and I plan on changing the oil every 20k or so to make sure it's not full of gunk and I don't know until it's too late (though he said I'd hear the noise increase in pitch or start hearing clunking if that was really the case.) Most of the parts replaced on the car were done-so with Ford parts, not aftermarket. So yes, the paint sucks, and it doesn't have all the bells and whistles that a nice SAP would have. But I'd rather deal with cleaning up the devil I know, than to embark on a possible unknown with another devil, you know?
I still routinely check out craigslist and marketplace for listings near Orlando, as well as keep my eye on FL auction listings. My parents could fit a Vic in their garage (my dad's truck is slightly too big to fit, even on an angle.)
Edited by jasonp1102 (12/29/20 01:59 AM)
_________________________
2007 Ford CVPI, Peelformance White, 186k/951hr - Daily Driver - 01/20-Present
2008 Ford CVPI, Performance White (paint was great), 104k/3898hr - RIP 10/19-01/20, front end accident
1997 Mercury Grand Marquis, Black, ~145k (odometer died at 111k) - RIP 07/13-12/19, rust, bad suspension, bad O2 wiring
1998 Ford Taurus - RIP 01/10-06/13, blown head gasket and warped heads
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#4089288 - 12/29/20 09:01 AM
Re: Repainting CVPI in Peelformance White
[Re: jasonp1102]
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Member
Registered: 01/17/06
Posts: 136
Loc: Arizona
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I feel for you back there in the rust states; it's not something I (or anyone) experience at all here in the dry deserts of Arizona. I have quite a few relatives I visit in Clifton, NJ and I remember seeing trunks and floor pans so rusted through I could see the roadway through them. I just did all of the ADTR suspension upgrades on my 2004 MGM and all of the bolts came out trouble free and rust free as if they were just put in from the factory yesterday---things just don't rust here at all. Before investing a ton of money in repaint and rust repair, perhaps you can sell yours in private sale and then buy a better one? Although, it sounds like at your condo your car is exposed to the weather year round, so no matter what you get, it will probably end up in the same condition in a short period. If you can store one, perhaps drive your current one just in winter and have a second in storage to drive during the summer? MT Motor Group in Phoenix buys a lot of Vics from auctions around here that you could take back to NJ. I've not bought from them, but several in my Arizona Panther Platforms club has bought from them and recommended them. If you want a rust free car to take up to NJ, this is a good place to find them at. Supplies are less that what they have been as agencies have less and less to surplus, but they have 10 available right now including a nice 2011 CVPI with 52,000 miles for about $8,000 (I'm sure it can be negotiated lower). It's in silver birch so I imagine it will peel for before too long, but nice looking right now; or maybe it can be wrapped before it peels? I'd like to have it, but I already have a 2008 CVPI in that color and a MGM, so I'm looking right now for a Lincoln Town Car to put in the stable for the "hat trick" of Panther platforms. MT Motors
Edited by 66lincoln (12/29/20 09:08 AM)
_________________________
2004 MGM LS (M75), 2008 CVPI (P71), 1966 Lincoln Continental convertible
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#4089324 - 12/29/20 02:59 PM
Re: Repainting CVPI in Peelformance White
[Re: jasonp1102]
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Rookie
Registered: 12/30/19
Posts: 95
Loc: NJ
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This car is really not that bad as far as rust considering it's age and mileage. It's mainly the roof and the spot on the doglog. The floor pans are all still good, the fender lips are still good, exhaust manifold isn't leaking LOL. The PD replaced both cat assemblies ~3yrs ago but I don't see any record of exhaust work done on it otherwise. It sounds like a stock exhaust for sure, identical to how my 08 sounded and basically how I remember my MGM sounding when I put a stockish exhaust back on it.
Obviously it's rustier than a FL or West Coast car would ever be, but for a 13 1/2 year old car with the mileage it has on it - through many rainy/snowy winters (although it doesn't snow as bad down where I am as it does in Clifton,) it looks pretty clean on a lift.
I just discussed the possibility of having my dad check some out down there in a year or two, if I can't go down there myself (or I'm not down there by then.) Money is a big factor, I don't have it now which is why a repaint on my 07 is going to wait until summer. I just got a second job to try to pay off some credit card debt I've been unable to pay off over the years. Once that's done I'm going to repaint this one and start saving money for hopefully a nice FL car. Most likely an SAP if there's any still on the market. But if not, I'll take a nice Marquis or LTC. I'd actually quite like to get a LTC, I've never had one nor driven one and it'd be cool to have the most "luxurious" of the Panthers.
_________________________
2007 Ford CVPI, Peelformance White, 186k/951hr - Daily Driver - 01/20-Present
2008 Ford CVPI, Performance White (paint was great), 104k/3898hr - RIP 10/19-01/20, front end accident
1997 Mercury Grand Marquis, Black, ~145k (odometer died at 111k) - RIP 07/13-12/19, rust, bad suspension, bad O2 wiring
1998 Ford Taurus - RIP 01/10-06/13, blown head gasket and warped heads
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#4089480 - 12/30/20 06:08 PM
Re: Repainting CVPI in Peelformance White
[Re: jasonp1102]
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Over the Hill
Registered: 11/13/19
Posts: 1420
Loc: Utah
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One of the reasons we all have panthers is the fact that so little can go wrong with them. Hence the reason why every single one of P71's (And even the Chargers and Explorer/Interceptors) I have bought, has been bought at auction sight unseen, pig in poke. The most expensive repair I've ever done to any of them was a transmission flush and filter swap. Only one has been shipped home, all the rest were driven home. But if you don't have the spare time to come and get 'em, what can you do?
If I were to pick one market that's the best out here, it would also be Phoenix-Mesa, like 66Lincoln says. I haven't been lucky enough to score one from there yet, but if I did it would only require a $50 Allegiant air one way ticket down and a same day drive home. I have bought from Seattle and SoCal, from Idaho and Nevada and would buy from anything West of the Rockies. (Too much hail damage on the Front Range, for me.)
But I agree, prices on these beater daily driver cars are going up as the supply shrinks. However the quality of the cars going on the block hasn't gotten worse. The front line patrol cars that saw serious abuse in big cities like Vegas and Albuquerque etc. all all gone. Aged out, worn out.
Now the ones that are hitting the blocks are the cars that got light duty use and just didn't die in their smaller departments. The 2004 I just picked up was seconded to the Fire Department and was the last Vic in the Hometown city's fleet. City next door has only two Vics left, driven by the Chief and his Lt. as take home cars. They're 2011's with low miles that nothing ever goes wrong in them so they're still in the fleet. Meanwhile they're burning through their 2015-17 Chargers like nobody's business all with the dreaded lifter clatter and control arm clanks before they hit even 100K.
I've never yet done a Maaco job, although I've been tempted. I had a horrible looking black one that I rented out as a movie prop detectives car because the paint flaws didn't register on film. I hated it, but I sold it just fine flaws and all. I repainted one Oreo myself (never do that again) and several of the other Peelformance white cars I patch painted and they turned out sooo good that I've since abandoned the notion of going to Maaco. But I only have two right now, the 08 with great paint like yours, and the silver 04 that needs nothing.
_________________________
1) 2002 White P71 - 89K miles. 2) 2003 B&W P71 - 74K. 3) & 6) & 11) 2005 White P71 - 54K, 74k, 115K. 4) 2011 Black P7B - 79K. 5) 2008 White P71 - 95k. 7) 2004 Silver P71 - 104K. 8) 2004 DT Red LX Sport - 111K. 9) & 10) 2010 White P7B SAP - 104K & 106K. 12) 2006 White P71 - scrapped. 13) 2007 Gray LX Sport - 125k. 14) 2006 White MGM LS Premium - 93k. 15) & 16) 2009 White P71 SAPs - 109k & 94k, 17) 2011 White P7B SAP - 67k, 18) 1994 Blue LX Aero - scrapped, 19) 2007 Oreo P71 - 100k, 20) 2007 White LTC Signature -98k, 21) 2004 Silver Marauder - 142k.
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#4090274 - 01/05/21 07:50 PM
Re: Repainting CVPI in Peelformance White
[Re: jasonp1102]
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Member
Registered: 02/10/18
Posts: 275
Loc: USA
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Hey all.
So I have a 2007 with 165k currently on the clock (I got it at 156k at the end of January.) I am planning on keeping this car as long as the body and frame survive being in NJ, and it is my daily driver - I put 200-300 miles a week on it. They brine the roads constantly here so I know it will only survive 5, MAYBE 10 years at best before it's eaten by that crap. I only paid about $1500 for it after sale, auction fee, and DMV fees. The drivetrain is in great shape, rear whines but my mechanic said it didn't look bad, just worn from being a high mileage highway cruiser - I'll just change the gear oil every 20-30k and pray the bearings don't go. Trans got replaced ~50k ago and the engine is in great condition.
Unfortunately, it has the dreaded Peelformance White issues. The PD I bought it from tried to remedy this multiple times with spray cans, but those spots have now lifted off and chipped even worse than they probably were before they spray canned it. I also tried to spray can it about 6 months ago, and unfortunately these spots again are lifting/cracking and will probably start to chip in the next 6 months or year. There were multiple smaller spots that I didn't attempt to fix from where their pinstrip was removed, as well. The driver's side front and rear doors were replaced in the summer with doors off my wrecked 08 due to a parking lot incident, so they are in far better shape than the rest of the car, and could PROBABLY just be scuffed and resprayed as there's no peeling on them. The rest of the car though, is bad.
The more pressing issue, though, is that from sitting during the COVID lockdown as I was out of work, iron/oxidation rusting has begun on the roof and C pillars. I live on the beach so sand, dirt, etc is often flying and for some time car washes were closed here and we can't wash our cars at this condo. I have tried Iron-X knockoffs and it has helped keep the rust on the roof from spreading too bad, but there are some spots that seem they are somehow rusted down to the sheet metal. There are only two holes in the roof, one from the lightbar that they plugged and RTV'd over, and one from an antenna mount that I just slapped an old antenna onto but would probably opt to remove the mount and fill the hole if I was going to get it repainted. No trunk holes.
It also has the dreaded rear dog leg rot, on the passenger side. It's not rotted all the way through to the other side by any means, but there's a BIC lighter sized hole in it, probably only about 2 inches deep into the dog leg. The rockers are both half eaten away, but the rest of the body is pretty clean. Wheelwell lips are good, the driver side rear dog leg is good, etc.
Now here's where my issue comes in. Being that I only paid $1500 title tags out the door, and I live in NJ with the brine crap, I don't really want to drop $1500-3000 on an AMAZING paint job with the body work done by a shop. I am planning to do a lot of the body work myself and then just take it to Maaco. I'll most likely be doing this after winter, as it's currently ~30-40F here everyday and raining off and on. Started snowing earlier today too. I want to go with a color like DTR, Norsea Blue, or that Metallic Silver I've seen some cars have (I think it's Silver Birch or something?.)
But how do I go about all this body work? I know realistically the car SHOULD probably be totally stripped down to the bare metal and totally reprimed and repainted. I guess I could go this route, I would just most likely have to do it panel by panel and would be driving the car around with diff panels in primer until I get it all completed and get it taken in to be resprayed. Would this be the best option, although not aesthetically pleasing (even compared to the leopard spotted paint now?)
The dogleg, I'm not sure how the best way to go about dealing with this would be as I don't have the time or tools to cut one off a donor car and cut mine out and weld the donor in (and let's be honest, being in NJ, I doubt I will find a clean one in a junkyard anyway.) I would assume cleaning it out the best I can with a sanding/grinding wheel, spraying rust inhibitor in it, filling it with bondo, then primer and sanding even would probably be the best way to go?
As far as the roof holes, I have seen people taking small pieces of sheet metal, JB welding it in from the underside of the roof, and then doing a couple heavy coats of primer (or filling the gap with bondo bondo) and sanding it down flush with the rest of the roof. Would this also be the best option of doing this on the cheap, if I didn't want to just RTV new plugs in and paint over them? Bondo is not meant for filling in holes, its designed to fill dents. Bondo requires a solid metal backing. Also Bondo is like a sponge, it will absorb moisture and amplify corrosion. The only correct fix is to cut out all of the bad metal and either weld in metal patches or replace the entire panel. To help prolong the life of your car you may want to install mud flaps and spray your underbody with anti rust wax. Then take it through the car wash anytime it becomes incrusted in salt. I live in the brine capital that is NJ too. I seen NJDOT spray salt just for freaking frost and in 60 degree temps. Murphy is nuts about over salting.
_________________________
2008 P71 EX-National Park Service, throttle comb delete, Jmod, passenger airbag switch, splash guards, police trunk pack, Gamber Johnson floor plate, Havis console, and Tuffy cup holders.
1987 Buick Regal Limited with SBC V8 swap, TES headers, electronic Qjet, ZZ4 chip, THM200-4R 4 speed trans, 3.73 ratio posi rear end, and KYB shocks.
2002 Ford Ranger 4x4 4L
1946 Farmall Model A tractor with 12v alternator upgrade and electronic ignition.
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#4090286 - 01/05/21 11:36 PM
Re: Repainting CVPI in Peelformance White
[Re: jasonp1102]
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Rookie
Registered: 12/30/19
Posts: 95
Loc: NJ
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I saw NJDOT on the ACE/GSP a week or two ago brining in anticipation of the noreaster we were supposed to get. Down where I'm at at least, we didn't get any snow. Just pointless. I immediately washed the car off after that as I had to pass the brine truck and definitely got some on the car.
I will talk to my mechanic about welding in patch panels to the dogleg area but not sure if he does "niche" welding work like that (they're a repair shop, not really a body/paint shop.)
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2007 Ford CVPI, Peelformance White, 186k/951hr - Daily Driver - 01/20-Present
2008 Ford CVPI, Performance White (paint was great), 104k/3898hr - RIP 10/19-01/20, front end accident
1997 Mercury Grand Marquis, Black, ~145k (odometer died at 111k) - RIP 07/13-12/19, rust, bad suspension, bad O2 wiring
1998 Ford Taurus - RIP 01/10-06/13, blown head gasket and warped heads
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#4091576 - 01/13/21 06:26 PM
Re: Repainting CVPI in Peelformance White
[Re: jasonp1102]
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Rookie
Registered: 12/30/19
Posts: 95
Loc: NJ
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https://imgur.com/a/iR4cT29I added some pictures of the car up to imgur @Dmblanch. At this point, my plan is to patch up as much of that mess as I can myself, spend the $700-1000 on a Maaco respray so it looks more presentable and is a blue or red close to Norsea Blue or DTR, and then start to put money away to hopefully find an SAP/MGM/LTC down from where my parents are at in FL. In my neck of the woods, there are still MANY beat patrol P71s getting put up on the block. SAPs and lower mileage, lower hour patrols were actually more common in NJ/PA/DE/MD in 2019 and the beginning of 2020, for much lower prices - it seems like it's the reverse here, the just won't die cars are the ones that are beat to death and have had half the parts replaced on em and they go on the block at 150k+. Seen SAPs and non-beat patrols going for $4k when a year, year and a half ago they were going for $1000-2000. Makes me think about a couple of sub-100k unmarked cars that I was interested in but had no realistic way to get from 2 1/2 hours north if there were issues, this was when I was first looking for a new Panther with my MGM on it's death bed and money was extremely tight; I didn't have the extra cash to spend on a truck+trailer rental to tow it back to me outright, and I didn't have the extra cash for towing+repairs if I ended up getting stuck on the highway on the drive down here. If memory serves, they both went for around $1500. One was DTR and one was Norsea Blue. Really wish I had gotten one of them, but hindsight's 20/20 I guess.
Edited by jasonp1102 (01/13/21 07:43 PM)
_________________________
2007 Ford CVPI, Peelformance White, 186k/951hr - Daily Driver - 01/20-Present
2008 Ford CVPI, Performance White (paint was great), 104k/3898hr - RIP 10/19-01/20, front end accident
1997 Mercury Grand Marquis, Black, ~145k (odometer died at 111k) - RIP 07/13-12/19, rust, bad suspension, bad O2 wiring
1998 Ford Taurus - RIP 01/10-06/13, blown head gasket and warped heads
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#4091662 - 01/14/21 02:46 AM
Re: Repainting CVPI in Peelformance White
[Re: jasonp1102]
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Over the Hill
Registered: 11/13/19
Posts: 1420
Loc: Utah
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I looked at your photos and was all for giving you my home paint patch recipe until I saw the roached out section on the lower wheel well. Ugggh. That's your big issue. The other stuff can be addressed for very little money and a lot of elbow grease. Here are the photos I used to sell my latest patch job in Performance white. As you can see, it's very very hard to tell whats been painted and what hasn't in photos. In person, you still have to be pointed out the patches and then they notice a slight difference in tonality because the clearcoat tends to yellow over time so old Peelformance looks "creamy". Newer blends look "whiter or blue-whiter". This doesn't bother me as my method yields very good blending around the edges and very good glossiness with the clear coat, causing the blue-whiteness to blend in nicely. And most importantly, the "wound" looks healed.... and it costs only the cost of three spray cans of paint and some sanding disks. The new buyer didn't even blink when pointed out the patches.     Also, I want to say that your issue is NOT the typical peelformance white I see hundreds of times out here in the west. True peelformance white separates from the primer in great big flakes and then the primer separates from the metal leaving big rusty ovals. It looks like this:  You don't have that. Yours is rusting from underneath, bubbling up THROUGH the primer and paint. I'm afraid that's a goner and you'd have to strip and sand the whole car down to the metal. That's a ton of work and not worth the ROI.
Edited by Dmblanch (01/14/21 02:54 AM)
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1) 2002 White P71 - 89K miles. 2) 2003 B&W P71 - 74K. 3) & 6) & 11) 2005 White P71 - 54K, 74k, 115K. 4) 2011 Black P7B - 79K. 5) 2008 White P71 - 95k. 7) 2004 Silver P71 - 104K. 8) 2004 DT Red LX Sport - 111K. 9) & 10) 2010 White P7B SAP - 104K & 106K. 12) 2006 White P71 - scrapped. 13) 2007 Gray LX Sport - 125k. 14) 2006 White MGM LS Premium - 93k. 15) & 16) 2009 White P71 SAPs - 109k & 94k, 17) 2011 White P7B SAP - 67k, 18) 1994 Blue LX Aero - scrapped, 19) 2007 Oreo P71 - 100k, 20) 2007 White LTC Signature -98k, 21) 2004 Silver Marauder - 142k.
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#4091710 - 01/14/21 10:19 AM
Re: Repainting CVPI in Peelformance White
[Re: jasonp1102]
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Over the Hill
Registered: 03/13/09
Posts: 1100
Loc: CA
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After looking at the photos, I have to agree with the above poster. That is not the typical Peelformance White issue.
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Pantherless as of Feb. 2021
Formerly Owned Panthers: Gold 00 CVPI SAP, Black 05 CVPI SAP, White 07 CVPI SAP
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Member Since: 10/25/05
Posts: 29128
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