Those are my plans as soon as I get home this afternoon. They both tested the same. Man I hope this solves my issue. I mean, its obvious that the valve has something to do with this as when I unplugged the electrical connecter everything settled.

Opening the canister purge valve allows more air flow than necessary. There is probably a leak in front of the valve.
Now you need to look for the answer under the green cap.

http://ibb.co.com/image/af5ou

Update with a big headach......

So got home today and installed the used replacement Vapor Canister Purge Valve. Took car out for an hour drive. Car ran great like always. I get home and park car. Let the car idle for about 10 mins and car starts to act up. Rpms start reving up from its normal 900-950. Gets to 1300s and just stays there acting all funky. I go back to underhood and disconnect the electrical connector from valve and car settles and idles normal.

Boy this is giving me the biggest headcach.

I went to amazon. Picked up a new valve and installed it. Drove car for a few mins and drove fine. Got home, parked and idled for about 5 mins and there we have it. I hear the car reving itself and rpm rising. Makes its way up to 1300-1350 and its just sitting there. I unplug the connector from the NEW valve and rpm settles. WTF!!!!.........

Slap the old one back and return new unit to autozone for my full refund.



So your saving that i might have a leak somewhere in my evap system?

Well... you need to go and find someone that understands the strategy of your PCM. Then find out what conditions enable that valve. That will clue you into what's making the condition valid, eg. Things like #4, for example, tells me that it should never open at closed throttle. That BAFX OBD reader could tell you if when it happens, the PCM thinks you're at part throttle and not idle.

Here is the first page extract for the GUFB strategy used in fox mustangs. There are a few more that explain the terms and the the flow diagram to enable the valve:

Canister Purge refers to the solenoid and valve combination that is located in the line between the intake manifold and the carbon canister. When the solenoid is energized the valve opens, allowing the flow of vapors from the canister to the intake manifold.

The strategy enables canister purge during various engine operating modes.
These modes are calibration items. Typical calibrations will enable purge
when these conditions are met:

1) Fuel control is in the desired mode. The calibrator can choose
between purging during closed loop only or during both open loop and
closed loop.
2) The engine has warmed up.
3) The engine has not overheated.
4) The 'Not at Closed Throttle' delay has been met.
The strategy includes a feature to prevent the rich surge that may occur
on purge turn on. When the purge is enabled the output is cycled on and
off at a 10Hz frequency with a variable duty cycle. The duty cycle ramps
up to slowly introduce the canister vapors. The duty cycle ramp is
determined from FN600 * FN602 * FN605A.

Other possibility is that it is normal to enable at idle for a CV, but there might be a missing upstream restriction that is letting in more air then designed. Was any of the vapor canister hoses and connections changed?

I find it unusual that, irrespective of the status of the Vapor Management Valve (AKA the purge valve), opening the hood will cause the issue to abate and closing the hood causes the issue to return.

There is nothing about the engine that should be aware of whether the hood is open or closed.

Openning the hood makes the issue worst. The issue is already present. Something is going on where by opening the hood allows more direct air/wind into engine bay causing the car to act up more then what its already is.

The fact that unplugging the purge valve makes car idle back down to normal is my issue. Its not the actual valve as I replaced with a spare used one and a new one.



no vapor canister hoses nor connections changed.

That's normal for any car. Just ask a professional mechanic. We used to refer to the shop fluorescents as the Healing Lights.

You should be able to identify purge valve operation by plugging the vent and watching the fuel tank pressure sensor on your scanner.

If the purge valve is stuck or is incorrectly being commanded open, you'll see it pull a vacuum on the tank.

Frankly, I don't think the purge valve has anything to do with it.

Your EVAP valve is located above the original position. If I'm not mistaken. In such a case the hood can cover the hole in the valve cap.

Seriously? I'm 64 and have been working on cars since high school and I've never seen that happen.

Update.........

So after looking and touching and sniffing under the hood i found 2 things. I smell fuel vapor by the back part of the intake manifold. I have the edlebrock intake with edelbrock fuelrails. I have a braided fuel hose connecting rails being intake and also by the front of intake(dual fuel lines).

I also found 5 lose intake manifold bolts. 2 on bank1 and 3 on bank 2. I beleive this could had been causing my issues. I have not taken care of these issues yet as the engine is hot and i dont want to torque down the bolts.

My question is, how and why did this happen and is the solution as simple as just re torqueing them all or should i pull the intake manifold, change the gaskets and check for demageings?

As per the fuel line behind the intake manifold, i beleive i dont need that line and the one up front should be enough. I guess i can just remove that and cap off the ends of the rails.

Try re-torquing before tearing things off the motor. Makes more sense to do that first, especially if it fixes your problem!

Agree with Danger2manifold.

Update........

Funny how everytime i find something, then go to resolve it, i then find something esle. So i retorqued all bolts for the intake manifold.

I then removed the coils on bank 2 being thats that the bank causing me issues. Everything is dry. I then went ahead and removed spark plug #5 and to my surprise a smell of fuel hit me when i removed the spark plug. Plug has carbon deposit. Went ahead to remove 6-7-8 and they all smelled heavly like fuel and looked all the same. Checked the gaps. When installed about a 8 months ago they were gapped at .45. They are now at .50. I went ahead and regapped them back to .45 and installed them. Went to start car and the exhaust was heavy fuel smell and trimes read as followed.

Cold start:
Stft b1 1.07% ltft b1 0.91%
Stft b2 1.34% ltft b2 1.15%

So, seems like we getting closer and closer to atleast finding the issue.

Any suggestions?