Hello All,

I recently bought a 2000 MGM. The intake manifold needs replacing. I wanted to use OEM parts but I am having a hard time finding the manifold.

The information I found stated that I need PN F8AZ-9424-CB but it is discontinued. I have the 4G alternator.

Tasca parts lists this PN 1W7Z-9424-AB would fit, but this is the only site I found that says this.

Does anyone have any experience with a replacement on the 2000?

You have an NPI motor, so you're limited to the Dorman et.al. manifolds, or you can install a Ford Racing PI manifold, but it's a little more involved. Unless you're planning significant mods, the Dorman will be fine. I have one on my 2000.

As RF said, you have an NPI motor. Ford no longer makes the NPI intakes.
Either buy a Dorman intake (which is NPI), or upgrade to the PI, which is pretty easy to do.

1R3Z-9424-AAA is a kit which includes OEM PI intake, OEM gaskets, and the newer style alternator bracket you will need. This is the Mustang kit, but exact same parts, the Vic part number (1W7Z) is out of stock.

3W7Z-18663-BA is the newer style heater return pipe, which shifts it out of the way to make room for the larger PI intake. These pipes rust out, so it's recommended to replace them anyways.

You will need to apply a glob of RTV to the corner of the four coolant passages, as they are slightly different shape.
There are several tutorials on this on YouTube, mostly on the Mustang, but it's identical.

I second to go with the Ford parts. The Dorman won't last nearly as long, 5 years if you're lucky, but that's how long parts from Advance Auto last in my experience. I won't go into my usual Advance rant, lol!

I removed a Dorman from my T-Bird, and the integral gaskets looked like they were made from cake icing. I had two leaks, both of them well hidden.

Al

I'm going to go with the OEM PI Intake.

Thanks everyone

I'd suggest if you're gonna install a used PI to closely inspect where the aluminum crossover and the underside manifold plastic meet: that's where the plastic corrodes and the small gasket groove deteriorates and breaks off. I've gotten a few miles more out of used ones by taking the crossover off, cleaning up the little rubber gaskets that go in the groove and then putting everything back together with a liberal amount of Super Blue RTV.

And like Davidzq said up above, you have to do the RTV glob on the front bank 1 and rear bank 2 water passages. Be patient and let it cure at least several hours (I've done this job three times now and let it sit overnight each time) before you add coolant.

So just an update...
I received the OEM PI Intake kit yesterday, as well as the new heater return pipe.

I saw some information where some people advised changing the heater core hoses as well as the PI coolant nipple.

I wanted to change all that is necessary while doing this job since I don't currently have to drive the vehicle everyday.

I plan on starting the fix next weekend, just wanted to ask for more opinions.

Best regards,

I'd agree with others' advice to replace the heater hoses. General rule I'm guessing we all try and follow is "I've gotten this far...might as well while I'm here."

You do have to change the steel heater line under the manifold. the original non-PI one will not work as the PI intake's runners are deeper and will hit the tube. If you have a knock/sound insulator for the PI intake, you'll see that it has a relief molded into the left side to fit the PI heater tube.

If you're replacing the heater nipple behind the water pump, use care as I've heard stories of folks smashing it too hard and breaking the block. If not, I'd suggest the correct o-rings and a liberal amount of sealant.

My practice, now that I've done this job more than a couple times, is to remove the wiper/cowl assembly. It can be done without removing it but for me it just makes everything easier and more accessible, especially the left side crash bracket and the bolt holding it in the back of the block.

I've found that the 20 to 40 minutes added taking that wiper cowl off and putting it back on will save at least an hour to an hour and a half when putting everything together. Plus it makes it so much easier to get to the 4 and 8 plugs if your gonna change them while your at it.

Again good luck

Hey, this may be a dumb question, but I've always been curious: couldn't you just use heater hose that was the right diameter to replace the NPI heater tube? It always seemed like it would be an easier option that was just as effective as popping in the PI heater tube. I could be wrong, but if it would make this job easier I'm sure all of us NPI folks would appreciate it!

Not a dumb question. I've done it before in a pinch. But basically comes down to the desired longevity of the repair work. You jamb a hose on there with some gear fittings and eventually, with repeated heat cycles, things work loose and leak. And it happens where you can't see what's going on. Also, to do that right, you'd want to make sure you flair the cut ends of the tube so that the repair hose would seal properly.

If knowledge serves me correctly, the original, pre-98 set-up used a custom fitted rubber hose with steel ends. But those often would corrode or degrade from rubbing on the block and cause leaks in the valley. That's why Ford went to a single steel line.

Noobie here, some great info here at CVn. This a topic I am going to get familiar with, but it's a 2001 PI engine.

Is there room under the intake to run a top grade soft hose or is the steel line the only way I wonder? I can see there's not a lot of room under there.

I saw somewhere where an effective fix for a failing steel line was using rubber lines and a 90* elbow at that nipple under the alternator and bringing that line out in front of the intake to curve back towards the heater core?

There isn't much room....an elbow is basically the only way.

But you're better off just sticking with the factory metal line. They last about 200k miles. Would be hard to get that out of a rubber line.

You should try reading "THE Book", Neanderthal.

No you aren't.

NassauPistol strikes again.

The intake manifold for the MGM in my signature has also been discontinued. My parts man at the counter of the dealership where I buy my parts found a kit on Amazon.com. It was from a Ford Dealer in Texas. If I am not mistaken, there were some on here that said I could use the metal part and bolt it onto the plastic part and it will work. As far as the lines under the manifold, I bought the OEM line and replaced the nipple and the water pump at the same time with OEM parts. On my car the rubber line runs under the manifold; on a 2000 I think it is a metal line with seals. I replaced that manifold a second time and just cut the metal banding and slid a new hose on; I don't think you can do that on your car as it has a complete metal line under the manifold. Good luck with what ever you decide.