I just picked up an 06 p71 with 119k miles with bad transmission. Forward gears slipping badly. Reverse works but feels iffy at times. What are some problem areas I should pay close attention to? I'm about to pull it and rebuild but I'm trying to make a plan first. I have factory service data. Fluid is pristine clean pink and doesn't smell burnt; this is suspicious to me. Once was able to get it to go down the road and felt 1-2-3-4 shift and TC lockup. No mechanical noise from trans. Did a line pressure and EPC test at idle and pressures are within spec. Thanks
Forward clutch is failed, get a rebuild kit and rebuild it. replace the forward clutch frictions and steels, OD band, reverse band and any other parts that are worn. In the valve body, install the TUFF separator plate to prevent the failure from happening again
_________________________ 2011 P7B - retired Jay county Indiana Sheriffs car 2003 Lincoln Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 09/2011 89 Crown Victoria LX- HPP Box - SOLD 09/2010 88 Grand Marquis LS - The original - Totaled 5/2006
There are lots of necessary upgrades to do (I feel) to make sure your rebuild lasts long.
Like 88grandmarq said the separator plate in the valve body needs to be replaced with the Superior Tuff plate but you have parts like the the Sonnax spiral retaining ring kit that should be installed.
Thanks for the advice guys! I've got to pick up some seal installation tools for sure. $130 just for some plastic rings though?? I'm probably gonna do a JMOD too. P71 drift car.
Found burnt forward clutch, torn lip seals on forward clutch piston, as well as worn OD servo pin bore. Not much else. Trans case is marked rebuilt at 81k miles. Got a rebuild kit, couple bushings, repair OD pin, TUFF separator plate, among some other things. New clutches and lip seals in direct and forward clutch drums today. Bit by bit...
Registered: 05/01/07
Posts: 2191
Loc: SoCal High Desert
Originally Posted By Tenevic_P71
... I've got to pick up some seal installation tools for sure. $130 just for some plastic rings though?? ....
I think you'll find those seal protectors will be worth their weight in gold by the time you're done.
There are some youtube videos out where a guy is using feeler gauges to seat the seals, BUT he is apparently very experienced. I tried that on my first rebuild, gave up, and ordered a set of the plastics. Never looked back to wonder if I made the right choice...
Edit: Don't forget the Vaseline jelly or assembly lube...
Edited by TheShadow (06/16/2101:48 AM)
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'95 P71, 5xx,xxx miles, Rebuilt tranny, 2.73. Lives as a cab, and will die as a cab. (Died-FrontEnder) '96 P71, 640,xxx on original drivetrain. (Now parts car - T-bone & roll)(You should see the roof - A,B & C-pillars chopped on driver side) New to list: '96 MGM (Nice! @ 35x,xxx), '97 CV P71, '98 CV P71, '00 CV P71, 01 P71 (2 of 'em) '03 CV P71 (Nice so far) (All Ford Zinc Yellow w/Black decals & trim) And the list is growing........... Taxicab mechanic: I HATE DRIVERS!
I used the feeler gauge method to install the 4R forward clutch piston yesterday. I'm going to air test everything I can on the bench before assembly and installation. Especially that forward clutch to make sure I didn't tear the seals. I got a bearing kit as well. Previously I built a 4L60, then it died premature death when a worn needle thrust bearing came apart and nuked the planetary on a dirt road on a mountain with no cell service.
Found burnt forward clutch, torn lip seals on forward clutch piston, as well as worn OD servo pin bore. Not much else. Trans case is marked rebuilt at 81k miles. Got a rebuild kit, couple bushings, repair OD pin, TUFF separator plate, among some other things. New clutches and lip seals in direct and forward clutch drums today. Bit by bit...
Niiiiiice. I got a 4r70w with 240k that finally went out sitting in storage. You're making me want to tear it down to see how it failed.
If I was an engineer I would wonder if there could be a way to create a forward clutch piston that could hold 2 seals that way if one lip seal got torn the piston would still work.
Amazing how a cheap lip seal probably less then a 1$ can cause an otherwise perfectly working transmission to fail.
Found burnt forward clutch, torn lip seals on forward clutch piston, as well as worn OD servo pin bore. Not much else. Trans case is marked rebuilt at 81k miles. Got a rebuild kit, couple bushings, repair OD pin, TUFF separator plate, among some other things. New clutches and lip seals in direct and forward clutch drums today. Bit by bit...
Niiiiiice. I got a 4r70w with 240k that finally went out sitting in storage. You're making me want to tear it down to see how it failed.
If I was an engineer I would wonder if there could be a way to create a forward clutch piston that could hold 2 seals that way if one lip seal got torn the piston would still work.
Amazing how a cheap lip seal probably less then a 1$ can cause an otherwise perfectly working transmission to fail.
I got a transtec gasket and seal kit and Exedy Frictions. Koyo bearing kit and some Sonnax odds and ends. TUFF separator plate. Assembling the drivetrain back into the case now. Air tested forward and reverse clutches through the holes on the pump. Found some slight air leakage in the reverse clutch. Replaced metal sealing rings and no change. Thoughts?
I'm not sure if the torn lip seal is a direct cause of the clutch failure. Either the clutch burned up and caused the lip seal to tear, or the lip seal tore and caused the clutch to burn up. Perhaps it is just a symptom of another issue such as the OD pin bore, which is possibly to blame for both the torn lip seal and burnt clutch pack.
Help please!! Installed transmission today. Gave it about 10qts of fluid. I have very soft/delayed engagement into all gears, virtually no movement at all. Wrench light with codes P0720(OSS circuit open), P0722, P2106 stored in PCM. Car is now stuck in the road and I can't even get it up the hill into my garage. I triple checked my electrical connections when installing trans. The next step I'm thinking is to inspect all transmission electrical connections. If that yields nothing I will check the line pressure. Please let this be a simple fix
Registered: 05/01/07
Posts: 2191
Loc: SoCal High Desert
Regarding the lack of movement, my first thought would be to cycle the shifter through all the positions with engine running, leaving in each position for 5 or 10 seconds at least, to distribute fluid into all the passages, pistons, etc. Try doing this a few times, check fluid level, and hopefully you'll find you need to add...
It's easy to get so caught up with the details, that the obvious is overlooked...happens to me a lot...especially when tired...
Regarding the electrical, good luck. I don't know enough about the newer sensors to tell you to make sure the TSS and OSS weren't accidentally switched on installation.
Regarding the fluid pressure check, I assume you know about the various taps in the case just above the pan joint.
Regarding the hill to the garage, borrow or buy a winch! I'd lend you mine, but I haven't bought it yet...
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'95 P71, 5xx,xxx miles, Rebuilt tranny, 2.73. Lives as a cab, and will die as a cab. (Died-FrontEnder) '96 P71, 640,xxx on original drivetrain. (Now parts car - T-bone & roll)(You should see the roof - A,B & C-pillars chopped on driver side) New to list: '96 MGM (Nice! @ 35x,xxx), '97 CV P71, '98 CV P71, '00 CV P71, 01 P71 (2 of 'em) '03 CV P71 (Nice so far) (All Ford Zinc Yellow w/Black decals & trim) And the list is growing........... Taxicab mechanic: I HATE DRIVERS!
Registered: 05/01/07
Posts: 2191
Loc: SoCal High Desert
Regarding the air test on the reverse clutch, that piston is the only one with an integral check ball. You did make sure it was clean and moving freely? Check the link below:
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'95 P71, 5xx,xxx miles, Rebuilt tranny, 2.73. Lives as a cab, and will die as a cab. (Died-FrontEnder) '96 P71, 640,xxx on original drivetrain. (Now parts car - T-bone & roll)(You should see the roof - A,B & C-pillars chopped on driver side) New to list: '96 MGM (Nice! @ 35x,xxx), '97 CV P71, '98 CV P71, '00 CV P71, 01 P71 (2 of 'em) '03 CV P71 (Nice so far) (All Ford Zinc Yellow w/Black decals & trim) And the list is growing........... Taxicab mechanic: I HATE DRIVERS!
Help please!! Installed transmission today. Gave it about 10qts of fluid. I have very soft/delayed engagement into all gears, virtually no movement at all. Wrench light with codes P0720(OSS circuit open), P0722, P2106 stored in PCM. Car is now stuck in the road and I can't even get it up the hill into my garage. I triple checked my electrical connections when installing trans. The next step I'm thinking is to inspect all transmission electrical connections. If that yields nothing I will check the line pressure. Please let this be a simple fix
Need 13 qts of of fluid to completely refill after removal.
_________________________ 2011 P7B - retired Jay county Indiana Sheriffs car 2003 Lincoln Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 09/2011 89 Crown Victoria LX- HPP Box - SOLD 09/2010 88 Grand Marquis LS - The original - Totaled 5/2006
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