Definitely go with Eric's (88grandmarq) advice. He is da' MAN for this transmission.

I would definitely still use the factory cooler in addition to the one you are adding. I run a 1996 CV in 24 hours of Lemons and Luckydog, we have a medium sized cooler plumbed inline with the factory cooler.

Our factory 4r70w got as hot as yours and wore out the 2nd and 3rd gear clutches. It did have atleast 168,000 miles but the heat killed it.

I run my aux cooler in series with the OEM cooler in the return line to the transmission, it's mounted in front of the radiator hanging from the cross bar with two "steadies" attached to lower core support, it gets air that comes in from under the bumper.

Every instruction set I've read from a bunch of cooler and transmission vendors says to do it this way.

I actually had a long discussion with Eric today, super helpful and very knowledgable guys. (Also really nice.) We talked about every thing from Trans Temps, to drive shaft speed, rear gearing, and even a little suspension.

After some discussion, here is the current plan.

1) We are actually going to ditch the OEM cooler and run this monster. (https://derale.com/product-footer/fluid-...54/13504-detail)

The logic here is we are located on the west coast, and most of the races are in the summer months. IF (and I doubt this) we can't get the trans up to operating temp, we'll pull the old NASCAR trick of blocking off part of the cooler.
2) We're making the switch to Amsoil Mercon V.
3) J-Mod and Valve body rebuild with Eric's special touches.

That's the plan for now, I'll post some pics when it's all in, and report back after the race.

Thank you to all of you for your input, and help.

I'm surprised nobody mentioned the deep aluminum LPW transmission pan that has cooling fins and allows it to hold 2 additional quarts of oil and has an oil drain plug.

In older threads it was recommended by 88grandmarq because of the pegs inside of the pan that allow it to support the transmission filter. I'm getting one in the next week or so and it would be interesting to see the temperature difference by switching to this pan.

https://www.jegs.com/i/LPW/619/501-AOD/10002/-1

https://www.lpwracing.com/Trans_Pans/Deep_Transmission_Pans.html

Great suggestion. The only concern we have about that pan is it hangs below the cross member. We're okay now at stock height, but we will soon be MUCH lower, and I feel like there is a good chance we would snag that on the curbing at the track.

I don't know how much benefit you'd get from a deep pan in a 24-hour race. The fluid will come up to temp slower because there's more of it, which would help for the first hour or so. But adding a big enough cooler also increases fluid capacity and will throw off a lot more heat than a finned pan.

I did mention it .. read point 3 in my original reply.

Or one could plumb a nice aluminum or other durable gallon or so tank in line kind of like those Moon tanks, in up high, out down low.

Buddy had a '67 Mustang with a 427TP he raced, drove on the street some, did that with the coolant, the increased volume helped he said.

Does anyone know how to keep a magnet inside a aluminum transmission pan without glue/jb weld? Will a magnetic drain plug be sufficient?

Assuming your transmission doesn't generate an abnormal amount of wear metals, and you do a drain & fill at reasonable intervals, the magnetic plug should be fine. If you're concerned, you could also use a Magnefine filter in the cooler line. Be sure to check the cooler line size...I *think* they're 5/16".

Well the valve body got back to me today, and I have to say, it came in a very nice little package with new filter, O ring, and very detailed instructions. Could not be happier, everything went in smoothly. I have all my gears, and the transmission not only holds each gear much longer, but shifts much more quickly. Very impressed.

Here are a few photos of the upgrades, and changes.

Ever wonder how to ruin a Ford reusable pan gasket, run it at 240-250 for 14 hours.



Old valve body out, and ready to ship to 88GrandMarq.


Bye Bye old trans cooler....


Lots of room in there for the new oversized cooler.



Derale giant cooler....



We plummed it into the old hard lines, because they have a nice nipple on them.


Eric’s awesome instructions.


Okay I’m embarrassed to admit, I was so excited, and a little too focused to get a pic of the rebuilt valve body, but trust me, it was a thing of beauty. Packaged nicely, well organized box of parts, and clear instructions.

Do not hesitate to hit Eric up if you need this work done. I can’t emphasize enough how good his communication was, and the work is super clean.

Trans on a short drive, in light traffic warmed up to 170-172 and stayed there. Cooled to 165 at idle. This is probably too cool for everyday street use, but for our race car, it’s going to work out great.

If you don't already have one, an air dam on the core support will jam extra air thru the radiators:



Similar to what came on the cars with the towing package. Easy, cheap, effective.

You also might want to space the trans cooler out from the radiator. Both will cool more effectively.

Great advice, we have the small plastic air dam, but an upgrade would certainly help.