I hereby nominate this topic for 'best topic of the year' (so far!).
Excellent info, part#s, procedures, before and after scenarios... It's the best!

Loaded98LS,

I can drill your plate if you send it to me. I can do both, just be sure to segregate them. You can also order one from Dennis (at least after '94).

The less than 300 HP setting on the J-Mod with the lower 1-2 accumulator spring in place ($30.00), will make it very enjoyable. Most likely you'll slip the serpentine belt on the 1-2 upshift making the shift softer than it would be if you didn't. Most CV's and a few T-Birds we did slipped the belt at WOT during the 1-2 upshift. A better belt would eliminate that. I believe Metro is the resident expert on drive feed belt materials.

Anyhow, the shifts won't be brutal, they'll be perfect. If you drill the holes to a larger HP setting and you aren't making the power to match, it can hurt something. The shift is directly proportional to power. If you leave the bottom spring out, the tires can chirp at WOT during the WOT 1-2 upshift. Especially if you have a chip to bump the line pressure up a tad.

The '99-'03 transmission have a much better main control. The '02's are even better than the '99-'01 units. However for it to be firm, you need to open up a few holes still. Don't forget there is a large range of age groups driving the cars on the market and grandpa doesn't want to jolt his neck on a 2-3 upshift. So you still need to open a few holes in the '99 and up models, but not as many as say, a '93.

Durability of the AOD-E and 4R70W have not been affected by the J-Mod. Nobody that I know of has failed a transmission for installing a J-Mod (PROPERLY THAT IS). Remember he worked at Ford for over 10 years developing these transmissions. Who would know better? I'll tell you...nobody.

Mr. File and Pestlnc have the J-Mod in their CV's. We installed them almost a year ago and they are both very happy. I installed mine back in 1999 using a custom main control that the "wise old man" built for me. It still works today. Hell just the fact that this factory 4R70W has lived this long under this much torque is amazing.

It's up to you though, after all it's your car.

A-Train

PS BTW, my shifts are brutal. The 1-2 chirps and spins the tires for about 10-15 feet at WOT.

A-train,
How much would it be to just buy a 2002 control module? Sounds like this would be an easy overall solution?

What I want ideally is to lengthen the life of my tranny. I will take any improvements in the tranny that help accomplish this. Any 'J-mod' changes that lessen car component life expectancy are not desirable.

My main complaint with the tranny is when I go WOT, and let off quickly (around town 35mph) it lags and almost pulls the car back before it shifts to second. This may be what people call timing 'tip in', where the ecm retards the timing before shifts? If it is, then it would be the ecm that would be needed to be changed, I assume?

Awesome info! My 95's 1-2 shift is very firm, and it shudders after the 2-3. I'm thinking changing the fluid will cure the shudder, but I need to change the accumulator/springs for the harsh 1-2 shift. All this info is kinda overwhelming; can somebody tell me the part #'s I need for my car, and where I should buy them? Thanks again guys for the info! I finally found out what's causing my crappy shifting, now all I have to do is fix it...

Loaded95 it seems this is what you need for that 95 4R70W tranny (A-Train should confirm this) based on the info in this post:

F8UZ-7A194-AA - Tranny pan with drain plug.
F6AZ-7A098-A - Filter assembly that goes with deep sump tranny pan
F7AZ-7F251-AA - 1-2 revised accumulator piston.
F75Z-7F284-AA - Light blue spring for top of 1-2 accumulator.
F7AZ-7F284-BA - Bottom spring for 1-2 accumulator (optional - A-Train recommends NO spring for firmer 1-2 shift).
F7AZ-7H292-AB - 2-3 revised accumulator piston (A-Train recommends NO spring for this piston, trust him).
MERCON-V ATF or Mobil 1 ATF A-Train recommends Mercon-V, Jerry recommends Mobil 1 (go fig... ).
plate style tranny cooler - Optional but HIGHLY recommended to dissipate dangerous heat.

The above mentioned parts and their numbers may have been revised, a good parts guy should have no problem with this. Again, A-Train should confirm this list as absolutely correct; I've distilled the information contained from all the posts in this thread.

Anyone, have I missed anything??

[ June 14, 2002, 03:31 PM: Message edited by: NorthernCV ]

yeah, the mumber for the sump pan...

Yeah, my time to help him do this endevor! I guess I will be getting intimate with his tranny!LOL I need to change my 2-3 accumulator and the springs as well. Maybe Fred wants my current sump pan since I will probably spring for the Uhaul one.

Now Fred, you need to come up with a plan to give me some time (work/help wise) to cover for me+you spending half a day doing this messy project...

Errol, just tell me the day you want to do it, and I'll be ready to work for you - I want my damn tranny fixed!
BTW: Where should I order the parts? What's a good website for this?

Does Dennis have a website? Dennis, I want to get the parts to do my tranny; please give me the info on how to order from you, thanks.
Fred

Does my '95 HPP have a plate style trans cooler?

Loaded95 the 95s do not have a plate style tranny cooler, your vehicle has an immersion cooler within the engine coolant radiator. All 98+ CVs have an external tranny and power steering cooler.

BTW, all the parts listed can be had your local Ford parts counter, usually within 24 hours.

Anyone have an idea of the cost of a plate cooler and the standard dimple (or drain plug equiped) pan, for loaded95lshpp's car? looking for ford list and any other good/better source.

[ June 15, 2002, 02:22 AM: Message edited by: Loaded98LS ]

Time to order this stuff brother (Loaded95LS HPP), be good to have on hand for when Ronman is in town...

Is this topic going to be saved for the future, it was/is great.