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#4111728 - 06/05/21 11:28 AM Re: Jerry's Crown Victorias [Re: av8or1]
Packman Offline
Climber

Registered: 01/17/07
Posts: 843
Loc: Joisey
I meant to comment on your fuel injector connectors. That was a good deal. All of my injector connectors were broken (although my CV is 35 years old). And whoever did work on that car, used Permatex to keep the plugs on the connectors. When I took the harness off for a rebuild, I found that some of the connectors had Permatex seep into the terminals. Surprised that the car ran as smooth as it did.

Question: are the MSD coils any good? Up until the recent rebuild, I have been using Motorcraft parts.
_________________________
Bop Your head and stomp your feet!
Droppin' it nicely, droppin' it neat!

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#4111786 - 06/06/21 01:17 AM Re: Jerry's Crown Victorias [Re: Packman]
av8or1 Offline

Over the Hill

Registered: 10/18/17
Posts: 1451
Loc: TX
Huhnigan- Well let me know how the project develops. I'm interested to see what you'll do. I think I'll avoid the rear fog lights altogether. I recall (as you mentioned) that they are illegal in the USA. Thus I don't want anything that even resembles them.

Originally Posted By Packman
I meant to comment on your fuel injector connectors. That was a good deal. All of my injector connectors were broken (although my CV is 35 years old). And whoever did work on that car, used Permatex to keep the plugs on the connectors. When I took the harness off for a rebuild, I found that some of the connectors had Permatex seep into the terminals. Surprised that the car ran as smooth as it did.

Question: are the MSD coils any good? Up until the recent rebuild, I have been using Motorcraft parts.

Hey Packman- Yeah the connectors in the engine wiring harness that came off of Ol' Blue were one of the few components that didn't need replacement. What a project this has evolved into ... as for the MSD coils, they are good, yes. At least the reviews I have read of them so indicate. This will be my first go 'round with them. I chose this path merely because they came from another CV that my neighbor bought but then sold. He replaced his stock COPs for these. He ran them on his car for ... oh ... about 2 weeks, then sold the car. So I got these for $50 total, 2 weeks old. Since I needed a new set and have been spending $$$ left-n-right on this project, I decided to give them a go. TBD. He seemed happy with 'em so we'll see.

Well I have progress to report, to include yet another FUMBLE on my part. More on the latter in a minute, which as I've mentioned I offer to maintain a good ground with the overall build saga. First though was the engine, specifically the TB. The other night I dusted off the TB that I had cleaned and painted quite-a-while-ago. I also installed a new TB spacer that I must have picked up somewhere along the way 'cause it was in the new-parts box. I only vaguely recall doing that, but alright, in it goes. However, prior to this mini-assembly I decided to take a look inside both halves of the TB. This was the control side:


Note that the spring cap slides into a recess in the black side housing and can fit only one way. There is also a preload on this spring, so if you disassemble yours, be certain to re-establish that preload prior to threading the bolts back in. The TPS side was uneventful with just your typical bearing:


All of this was in good condition, so I slapped it back together, assembled it and installed it on the engine:


Slow progress here, but I'll take whatever we can muster. So today I decided to finish off the drivetrain. And here comes the FUMBLE ... do you recall that however-many posts ago I recommended checking your crap prior to installing it? Yeah well I kinda slacked on that a tad and in so doing the I-told-you-so gremlins took a chunk out of my backside this afternoon. I suppose that the cause of this is human nature to a degree ... I mean I sometimes think that I am too particular, too thorough. And so I slack off a tad under the veil of "just enjoy it and don't worry so much". That is usually my undoing, to one degree or another. Anyway we began the process by lifting the tranny, installing the torque converter and giving the bottom side lick of primer and paint:


Next was the installation of the tranny crossmember:


To which I did decide to apply bedliner, BTW. I had it in position and was just about to sinch her up:


When I noticed this on the flexplate:


Uuugggghhhhh. You gotta be kidding me! How in the hell did I miss THAT? And yeah, there was at least one other patch elsewhere on the plate that exhibited the same type of rash. I discontinued looking at that point, disgusted that I had slacked off when I cleaned the thing and yet failed to check the friggin teeth. After recommending that you should always check your crap in a previous post, I'm wiping the egg off of my face ... sigh. Mind you, I understand that the damage could be worse and that you could run it like that. However in my experience when you follow that recipe you practically guarantee that you'll need to replace it sooner rather than later. And so the best counsel is to just replace it now. In retrospect, this IS Ol' Blue so it is hardly surprising to see yet even more damage. That said I should have caught this. Instead I wasted an afternoon. Oh well. Things go South in any build. That is all that occurred here. 'Is what it is...

So I pulled everything back apart, raised the tranny with the gantry, pushed the frame back into the workshop, lowered the tranny onto a padded car dolly, wheeled that inside, cleaned everything and then closed up shop for the night. I'd had enough of my shenanigans for one day. Sigh. So what to do? Well, I gave the fella from whom I purchased The 5-O a call to see if he had/has any plates. He does have a couple, so the plan is to head out there tomorrow and grab one. Then continue with the drivetrain stuff in the afternoon (again).

And that's where I left it ... good times! laugh
_________________________
2010 CVPI (Former TEXAS Highway Patrol vehicle) POTM April 2020 POTM June 2021 double thumbs
2006 LX Sport air ride delete (2)
2006 F450 SD 6.0L PSD CC LWB flatbed 4x4
1985 Mazda RX7 GSL-SE
1970 Plymouth Road Runner A383 pistol grip tick-tock buckets

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#4111838 - 06/06/21 11:17 PM Re: Jerry's Crown Victorias [Re: av8or1]
av8or1 Offline

Over the Hill

Registered: 10/18/17
Posts: 1451
Loc: TX
What a difference a day can make. I picked up the flexplate around mid-day. It was on the rear of a core engine, so it had been sitting in the wx for who knows how long. Rusty as all get-out it was. I wasn't gonna run it like that. I ran it through the parts washer, applied some rust converter, thought better of that, ground that off along with most of the rust and by the end of that make-it-up-on-the-fly process this is what I had created:


Meh, it'll work. And with that the crappy one that was on Ol' Blue when we brought her home came off. I checked it just to see how many rashes there were. Only the two that I had already seen. The second was larger and more severe than the one I pictured. Installed the new fella (59 ft-lbs is your torque value if I didn't mention that already) no issues. Wheeled the tranny back outside, elevated it with the gantry, rolled the frame underneath all of that kruft, put the crossmember in place and lowered it into position. Aligned the torque converter studs with the new flexplate and mated the two together:


Torque value for the transmission bolts is 35 ft-lbs. I also mounted the tranny dipstick tube and installed the dipstick while I was at it. That done, I pushed the entire thing back into the workshop and installed the driveshaft:


And so that's it fellas, the drive train is installed into Ol' Blue! We finally have something that we can build from again:


Next for me will be the fuel tank. I'd rather clean that, paint it (will likely go with the black bedliner again) and install it onto the body prior to placing the body back onto the frame. Although I am eager to remate the two primary components, it will be easier to install the tank without the rear end in the way. And so that's the path I'll go down.

A few of the EVAP hoses on Ol' Blue were in fairly sorry condition. I had a chat with the fella who sold us The 5-O regarding one of his vehicles. While the hoses on it aren't new, they are certainly in better shape than what Ol' Blue had. And so I am considering having him just pull the lot of it in-tact and then I'll swap that in. TBD. It's either that or I will need to rebuild/recreate the EVAP lines from new hose. The latter isn't a bad idea actually, though no doubt time consuming.

Anyway I gotta run. The wife-eee needs help with the lil' un. Hope all is well!
_________________________
2010 CVPI (Former TEXAS Highway Patrol vehicle) POTM April 2020 POTM June 2021 double thumbs
2006 LX Sport air ride delete (2)
2006 F450 SD 6.0L PSD CC LWB flatbed 4x4
1985 Mazda RX7 GSL-SE
1970 Plymouth Road Runner A383 pistol grip tick-tock buckets

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#4111854 - 06/07/21 06:43 AM Re: Jerry's Crown Victorias [Re: av8or1]
Old_Guy_Stu Offline

Over the Hill

Registered: 04/28/19
Posts: 2297
Loc: Cleveland, OH
Lookin' good!
_________________________

1988 CVLX Formal Roof (Love Boat) POTM July 2019 & Aug 2020, 56K
E-code lights w/ relays, LEDs w/ switchbacks, 15x8 Ansen slots w/ 255/60 BFG's, Kenwood stereo, various hacks.
1988 CVLX (Destroyer) 1998-2001 driven to death 202K
1988 Squire (Chris Craft) 1996-1998 junkyard rescue driven to death 199K

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#4111900 - 06/08/21 12:03 AM Re: Jerry's Crown Victorias [Re: av8or1]
av8or1 Offline

Over the Hill

Registered: 10/18/17
Posts: 1451
Loc: TX
Thank you Stu, I appreciate it.

Today was an easy day in the workshop. We had a birthday in the family, so the focus was on that. I decided to squeeze in the installation of the block heater though, considering that it shouldn't take much time. And it indeed worked out that way, so all to-the-good. Regarding the heater itself, I elected to go the way of an aftermarket product:


It had good reviews, is made in the USA and is a 600 kw heater. The other aftermarket offerings as well as the OEM one are 500 kw. And you know that the extra 100 kw is a-gonna make the difference someday, so ... laugh

Anyway the kit has three parts to it:

1) The heating element
2) Charging cord cover
3) Charging cord

According to the manual the block heater on the 4.6L should be located in the aftmost core plug (or "freeze" plug if you prefer) on the driver's side. With that in mind, I punched out the plug in that location:


And installed the new gizmo:


I'll worry about the routing of the charging cord later. The installation is bone-simple BTW. You merely insert the heating element by finger presssure, then sinch it down to 20-25 in-lbs of torque. Lube the o-ring with something other than petroleum prior to installation and you're in business. Simple as that. And when you have this kind of access, such an "upgrade" is little more than a trivial affair.

So. Ol' Blue will have a block heater amongst others in its package of goodies. A block heater. In TEXAS. Yeah. 'Cause we need them here. rofl

Y'all take care!


Edited by av8or1 (06/08/21 12:10 AM)
_________________________
2010 CVPI (Former TEXAS Highway Patrol vehicle) POTM April 2020 POTM June 2021 double thumbs
2006 LX Sport air ride delete (2)
2006 F450 SD 6.0L PSD CC LWB flatbed 4x4
1985 Mazda RX7 GSL-SE
1970 Plymouth Road Runner A383 pistol grip tick-tock buckets

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#4112404 - 06/14/21 12:07 AM Re: Jerry's Crown Victorias [Re: av8or1]
av8or1 Offline

Over the Hill

Registered: 10/18/17
Posts: 1451
Loc: TX
Alright so I've been offline dealing with homestead issues. Austin experienced a hail storm in April. Late this week the roofers were here to do a full replacement, so I've been staying on top of their work and all that it entails (insurance, etc.). This is where the week's time-sinkhole began, not ended. Just a-too much taking place this week. laugh

What time I have spent in the workshop has been consumed in a search for applicable hardware. Yup, "where did I put that bolt?" has been a common thought as of late. Specifically, there are 7 bolts that secure the transmission to the engine. I found only 6. Sheesh. So where is the last one? Dunno. I finally found something that would work in that it is the correct diameter and thread pitch, coupled with an appropriate length. No tellin' if it is the actual correct bolt. Sigh.

On the brighter side of things, I painted the radiator support from the 2007 GMQ and the alternator bracket from Ol' Blue:


The support installed:


That's an improvement over what was there certainly. And I dug out the crusty alternator bracket and touched it up along with that support because I ordered a new alternator for the wife-eee's ride. It arrived today!


That's a Mechman custom Ford Crown Victoria 240A alternator, painted in Ford Blue dontchaknow. It sure complements the paint job on the engine:


Looking forward to connecting that critter up and watching it run! double thumbs

Anyway that's all I have, so not much to report. Funny how despite diligent preparation to include everything being saved off into freezer bags, parts just somehow grow legs.

Y'all take care!


Edited by av8or1 (06/14/21 12:10 AM)
_________________________
2010 CVPI (Former TEXAS Highway Patrol vehicle) POTM April 2020 POTM June 2021 double thumbs
2006 LX Sport air ride delete (2)
2006 F450 SD 6.0L PSD CC LWB flatbed 4x4
1985 Mazda RX7 GSL-SE
1970 Plymouth Road Runner A383 pistol grip tick-tock buckets

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#4112520 - 06/15/21 12:02 PM Re: Jerry's Crown Victorias [Re: av8or1]
Huhnigan Offline

vonirkinshtine
Over the Hill

Registered: 11/05/05
Posts: 3687
Loc: LKN, NC
Something I was wondering...

I need to replace my intake manifold. I wonder if it would improve engine bay aesthetic if I painted the black runners to have an aluminum look? Maybe then do the valve covers in Ford blue?
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Originally Posted By EMTSteve
I'm not with Law Inforcment

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#4112782 - 06/17/21 04:01 PM Re: Jerry's Crown Victorias [Re: av8or1]
Packman Offline
Climber

Registered: 01/17/07
Posts: 843
Loc: Joisey
That engine, drivetrain, and chassis; so pretty!
_________________________
Bop Your head and stomp your feet!
Droppin' it nicely, droppin' it neat!

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#4112992 - Today at 01:35 AM Re: Jerry's Crown Victorias [Re: Packman]
av8or1 Offline

Over the Hill

Registered: 10/18/17
Posts: 1451
Loc: TX
Originally Posted By Huhnigan
Something I was wondering...

I need to replace my intake manifold. I wonder if it would improve engine bay aesthetic if I painted the black runners to have an aluminum look? Maybe then do the valve covers in Ford blue?

Well I painted the two manifolds in aluminum for Ol' Blue. So I'd say yes. laugh I hadn't thought of painting the valve covers in anything other than black (which I did). Ford blue wouldn't be a bad choice if you were to attempt that. For this build, I think we'll remain with black though, as it kinda sets off the Ford blue Mechman alternator! double thumbs

Originally Posted By Packman
That engine, drivetrain, and chassis; so pretty!

Thanks! Now let's hope that I can make it work. laugh

This week, in what little free time was available, I primarily tracked down misc parts that I either needed immediately or that I will need soon enough. An example was one of the torque converter bolts. Somehow or another I munged one of them up enough during disassembly that the 14 mm socket that is supposed to fit it wouldn't. And so the son and I headed out to the retired fella from whom I purchased The 5-O. He had a couple sitting around in a bucket. So we snatched them, brought them home, gave them a good cleaning and buffing, then selected one and torqued it into position. A part that I will need is all of the hose that is found on the fuel tank. In the end, the same fella and I removed a tank from one of his CVPIs as an entire unit, save the fuel pump (which I didn't need). So I brought the tank home from the same trip in which I sourced the torque converter nut:


There are issues with each tank, though the nod would definitely have to be given to the one from the 2010 CVPI. The tank out of Ol' Blue has damage to the heat shield as well as part of the hose/tubing, which is why I needed to take action in the first place. The electrical connectors differ however, so if I want to use the new tank I'll need to transfer over the portion of the hose/tubing that has the connector. Or I may just re-tube/hose the entire thing with new. Dunno yet. However that is a bit down the road.

The current sub-task/project is to finish the fab on the skid plate 'cause it's consuming needed space in the workshop. With that in mind I mounted the rebuilt steering rack:


And then the skid plate:


Which is held in position on the front end by two removable captives:


And so the task is to fabricate some means of securing its aft end to the front crossmember. I like Stu's suggestion of using the steering rack studs. Note however that there is more thread available on the pax side:


There is a boss on the rack housing that will limit the thickness of the bracket that can be built. However it won't factor into the equation much because my planned thickness was less than that limit already. Then there is the driver's side:


Issues abound. Less thread area to play with and significant interference from another boss on the rack, the bottom of the pinion housing and the pinion dust cover. For that reason, the bracket that I will fab will likely need to be of the 90-degree design (L-shape). The idea being that you simply remove the nut, slide this bracket over the stud, and then re-tighten the nut. The bracket has a hole in it just larger than the diameter of the stud. It extends both forward and laterally to the side toward the wheel (respectively). That bracket is then welded to the top of the skid plate. With this design, installation would involve the mounting of the plate onto the studs, securing the skid plate's brackets to the studs with the nuts, and then securing the front of the plate to the radiator support via the captives. Removal would be the opposite of installation.

Feedback welcomed. That's all I have for the time being. Hope all is well!


Edited by av8or1 (Today at 02:07 AM)
_________________________
2010 CVPI (Former TEXAS Highway Patrol vehicle) POTM April 2020 POTM June 2021 double thumbs
2006 LX Sport air ride delete (2)
2006 F450 SD 6.0L PSD CC LWB flatbed 4x4
1985 Mazda RX7 GSL-SE
1970 Plymouth Road Runner A383 pistol grip tick-tock buckets

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#4112998 - Today at 06:09 AM Re: Jerry's Crown Victorias [Re: av8or1]
Old_Guy_Stu Offline

Over the Hill

Registered: 04/28/19
Posts: 2297
Loc: Cleveland, OH
If it was me, I'd bolt the skidplate to the new brackets. Much easier to get off that way. Especially after it's done its job a few times.
_________________________

1988 CVLX Formal Roof (Love Boat) POTM July 2019 & Aug 2020, 56K
E-code lights w/ relays, LEDs w/ switchbacks, 15x8 Ansen slots w/ 255/60 BFG's, Kenwood stereo, various hacks.
1988 CVLX (Destroyer) 1998-2001 driven to death 202K
1988 Squire (Chris Craft) 1996-1998 junkyard rescue driven to death 199K

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