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#4091996 - 01/16/21 10:16 AM Re: The Brick [Re: arummel93]
arummel93 Offline
n00b

Registered: 12/05/20
Posts: 26
Loc: MD
Slip yoke was 150, flange was 90. Can absolutely be done cheaper with a $50-75 nodular iron slip yoke and reuse the other end by swapping the pinion flange, just take the flange off the car you pull the shaft from in the junkyard. All of the 8.8" pinions use the same spline count, so ought to be direct fit. I opted for the chromoly slip yoke due to having power, weight, big tire, and a transbrake, otherwise I'd absolutely trust a nodular iron unit. Spicer 1350 joints a little over 20 bucks each.

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#4092062 - 01/16/21 09:03 PM Re: The Brick [Re: arummel93]
Old_Guy_Stu Offline

Over the Hill

Registered: 04/28/19
Posts: 2790
Loc: Cleveland, OH
Ha. I know if I did something like that I'd end up blowing the whole thing apart to put a Trak-Lok in there. Mission creep gets me every time.
_________________________

1988 CVLX Formal Roof (Love Boat) POTM July 2019, Aug 2020, & Oct 2021, 58K
E-code lights w/ relays, LEDs w/ switchbacks, 15x8 Ansen slots w/ 255/60 BFG's, Kenwood stereo, various hacks.
This, of course, was merely the semi-delirious notion of a fever-patient, but I remember that it struck me at the time as being eminently practical and feasible.

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#4092070 - 01/16/21 09:51 PM Re: The Brick [Re: arummel93]
arummel93 Offline
n00b

Registered: 12/05/20
Posts: 26
Loc: MD
You don't even need to pull the cover. Impact gun. Zip the nut off the flange, flange slides right out. No need to tear into things for a simple job...but 1 wheel wonders ARE an embarrassment, so do it wink

I already did the 4.10s and posi rebuilt with the ford racing carbon clutches, next time the cover comes off of mine will be either for further building (and lengthening) the whole rear, or at least just to throw a girdle on it.

Pic of the axle in my SVO for reference--8.8" with TruTrac diff, welded tubes, 9" ends with bearing retained Moser 31 spline axles, Wilwoods. I'm no stranger to this life for sure.


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#4092102 - 01/17/21 06:44 AM Re: The Brick [Re: arummel93]
Old_Guy_Stu Offline

Over the Hill

Registered: 04/28/19
Posts: 2790
Loc: Cleveland, OH
I thought you had to re-establish the pinion's pre-load any time that nut was disturbed. If that's not the case I guess I don't have any excuse for not replacing my pinion seal (which is just starting to go into "rustproofing the floorpan" mode). Might have to look at that driveshaft upgrade again, when it stops snowing in June.
_________________________

1988 CVLX Formal Roof (Love Boat) POTM July 2019, Aug 2020, & Oct 2021, 58K
E-code lights w/ relays, LEDs w/ switchbacks, 15x8 Ansen slots w/ 255/60 BFG's, Kenwood stereo, various hacks.
This, of course, was merely the semi-delirious notion of a fever-patient, but I remember that it struck me at the time as being eminently practical and feasible.

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#4092124 - 01/17/21 10:39 AM Re: The Brick [Re: arummel93]
arummel93 Offline
n00b

Registered: 12/05/20
Posts: 26
Loc: MD
Ideally, yes, you should. Realistically, when you zip the nut back on it will want to just about stop at where the crush washer was previously, maybe crush a little further and take up a few thousandths more slack. Be reasonable, dont sit there hammering on it with the impact until it stops turning, just a couple ugga duggas to seat it back to where it was and let loctite do the rest. I work at a dealer, seen it done this way several times, and not once have those vehicles come back with any issues. Say we have a 15k mile truck with a leaking pinion seal...we dont want to crack open the diff and redo a solid factory set up diff, best to address the issue as minimally invasive as possible, and well, if anything goes bad it comes back and gets the whole job on manufacturers dime, so nobody is out anything...sometimes dealer life sucks, but it does have its perks at times when you can get manufacturer to pay for things. Personally thats how I'd want my vehicle done if everything else is mint and its just a seal like that. Not guaranteeing anything, just posing options. Your car your choice.

At least in your case, if anything goes horribly wrong it just gives you an excuse to go posi and 4.10s wink

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#4092126 - 01/17/21 11:03 AM Re: The Brick [Re: arummel93]
Old_Guy_Stu Offline

Over the Hill

Registered: 04/28/19
Posts: 2790
Loc: Cleveland, OH
4.10s with a lo-po... that'd give me about a 45mph top speed!
_________________________

1988 CVLX Formal Roof (Love Boat) POTM July 2019, Aug 2020, & Oct 2021, 58K
E-code lights w/ relays, LEDs w/ switchbacks, 15x8 Ansen slots w/ 255/60 BFG's, Kenwood stereo, various hacks.
This, of course, was merely the semi-delirious notion of a fever-patient, but I remember that it struck me at the time as being eminently practical and feasible.

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#4092128 - 01/17/21 11:27 AM Re: The Brick [Re: arummel93]
arummel93 Offline
n00b

Registered: 12/05/20
Posts: 26
Loc: MD
My 4.10s get me a solid 70-75mph highway cruising at 2900-3000rpm on a 25.6" tire, 0.68 OD gear in AOD. Won't restrict your top speed in the least, you'll just get up to speed faster at the cost of higher cruising rpm.

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#4096322 - 02/12/21 10:11 PM Re: The Brick [Re: arummel93]
arummel93 Offline
n00b

Registered: 12/05/20
Posts: 26
Loc: MD
Finally assembled some beefy control arms. We're not going to talk about the weight, aluminum arms would have been a much easier and lighter option if I was making less power...now to find a reasonable powdercoater in the area.








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#4096366 - 02/13/21 06:26 AM Re: The Brick [Re: arummel93]
Old_Guy_Stu Offline

Over the Hill

Registered: 04/28/19
Posts: 2790
Loc: Cleveland, OH
Nice welds!
_________________________

1988 CVLX Formal Roof (Love Boat) POTM July 2019, Aug 2020, & Oct 2021, 58K
E-code lights w/ relays, LEDs w/ switchbacks, 15x8 Ansen slots w/ 255/60 BFG's, Kenwood stereo, various hacks.
This, of course, was merely the semi-delirious notion of a fever-patient, but I remember that it struck me at the time as being eminently practical and feasible.

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#4096506 - 02/13/21 10:56 PM Re: The Brick [Re: arummel93]
arummel93 Offline
n00b

Registered: 12/05/20
Posts: 26
Loc: MD
TIG makes every weld look better...

Also, not real important, but blew out my dash speakers. Hacked in a pair of Kickers. Fitment not perfect, minor hacking necessary. Nothing I'm losing any sleep over. I'll eventually buy a pair of matching 6x9s to throw in the back for the hell of it but as some of you may have noticed, I'm not real big on automotive audio.


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#4132586 - 01/10/22 10:40 PM Re: The Brick [Re: arummel93]
arummel93 Offline
n00b

Registered: 12/05/20
Posts: 26
Loc: MD
Between COVID, launching a small custom titanium lug nut business, walking off the job, and working on other projects, I've just been using the Brick as a daily driver and not doing much to it. So, lets get this up to date...

Carlisle Ford Nationals--Flex-a-Lite fan broke terminal off the relay board on the way to the show, shorted to the terminal next to it, tried to burn the car down. Good times. Melted some wiring, blew the fusible link. Patched everything back up and installed an aluminum fan shroud with dual 12" SPAL fans. So far I've only bothered to wire up one of those fans and it stays under 200F all the time...Likely going to use a controller that splits voltage and runs both fans but at a lower speed to reduce power usage and reduce voltage drop when powered on...someday.

Anyway, aside from that, has been pretty reliable. Since I walked out of work I've now got a bit more time to get caught up on side work and projects, so today I took a break from building the wiring harness for the Microsquirt in the SVO and finally got the sandblaster AND powdercoat oven working and tried my hand at powdercoating those control arms I made way back when. Pretty happy with how they turned out!















Edited by arummel93 (01/10/22 11:09 PM)

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#4132900 - 01/14/22 09:13 AM Re: The Brick [Re: arummel93]
Gibby Offline
Rookie

Registered: 03/01/16
Posts: 54
Loc: ID
Nice! I'd love to have an in house powder coating oven...

I am also super jealous of the SVO, it's a car on the list, but I don't want a fixer upper, I am waiting for a driver to come for sale...

Not 4.10s, but 3.73s went into my box last year, best thing I have done to it!

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