I like the idea of running AN line the entire way. The fewer the connections the better.

Interestingly, I’ve been doing quite a bit of research on heat transfer, heat resistant materials, and how to dissipate heat.

I’ve actually decided to go with Silicone line for now. Pegasus Racing Supply sells a 3/8” 250 psi, oil resistant silicone hose by the foot. It is rated to 300 degrees.

We’re going to give it a try.

The game plan seems to change regularly when better information comes along, but as of now:

1) Fan has been wired through a 50 AMP relay, and thanks to some left over cop wiring, is on a circuit protected by a 50 amp fuse in the BJB. (It’s actually pretty cool to hear the fan come on full blast with the flip of a switch.)
2) Derale 40 row stacked plate cooler.
3) silicone lines running from the hard lines under the engine to the cooler, with no thermostat. (Maybe ditch the hard lines altogether down the road.)
4) front grill, and headlights are out to allow more air through the front.
5) I’m going to try and fabricate a better air deflector to push more air to the radiator area. (This was a suggestion in an earlier post and a really good one.)
6) found an old post that said pulling the rubber seal at the top of the hood helps high pressure air at the base of the windshield get pushed under the hood. Can’t hurt, we’ll try it.
7) We’re going to cut away a lot of the under hood support to drop weight, when we do that, we’ll chop a vent hole in the hood, and put some generic grill material in there. We’ll likely mimic the pattern used by Ford for the optional cop heat escape hood vent.
8) 100% synthetic trans fluid.

If all this doesn’t work, the only real option left is remotely located coolers with an attached fan.

Once it’s all in, I hope to get some open track time to test it all out.

Thank you everyone for all the suggestions and help, especially 88GrandMarq. (He’s answered way more questions, and given way more advice than I deserve, and he’s been friendly, patient and cool the entire time.)